This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[Irresistible]

I figured this would be well placed here...

What is the best way to achieve a LITTLE bit more angle, without having to get knuckles? I have an S14, and I plan on getting the LCAs extended 25mm hopefully in order to give me a ridiculous amount of camber, but will that also improve my angle at all? Can I get the bump stop removed if I plan on retaining OEM knuckles? I also plan on getting tie rods that are a little extended, and possibly the Godspeed rack extension. (Because the guy that originally designed them no longer makes them). Also, I want to get the PBM rack relocating solid rack bushings... Will all of that increase my angle at least a little bit? I'm not looking for anything crazy, nor do I want to spend a bunch of money on it, however, I do want to do it right, and not get shitty parts.

[DJPimpFlex]

I would just get a set of these. They extend your tie rods a little and give you a little more angle for very little money.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

I figured this would be well placed here...

What is the best way to achieve a LITTLE bit more angle, without having to get knuckles? I have an S14, and I plan on getting the LCAs extended 25mm hopefully in order to give me a ridiculous amount of camber, but will that also improve my angle at all? Can I get the bump stop removed if I plan on retaining OEM knuckles? I also plan on getting tie rods that are a little extended, and possibly the Godspeed rack extension. (Because the guy that originally designed them no longer makes them). Also, I want to get the PBM rack relocating solid rack bushings... Will all of that increase my angle at least a little bit? I'm not looking for anything crazy, nor do I want to spend a bunch of money on it, however, I do want to do it right, and not get shitty parts.

What DJ said. Once you start using the big rack spacers, you start getting into a really gnarly ackerman curve, and you can easily over center if you don't reduce the caster a decent amount.

I'd get rack spacers and call it a day. You'll probably want more, and if so, you can look into knuckles next.

[az_240]

^Problem is finding longer inner tie rods with rack threads long enough to handle those spacers. PBM is out of theirs at the moment.

I noticed certain retailer brands have a longer thread length going into the rack... so using something like longer i30 inners from Napa/OReilly/Autozone won't be an issue with those spacers. Will look into this in the next week or so when I install the PBM front knuckles I just received.

Edit: found out PBM has a few of their inner tie rods in stock... they just haven't updated their site yet so will just get those.

[Black R]

Originally Posted by Motary

I wouldn't. If theres enough interest I could do a cheap version of a curved tension rod out of steel, say 10 pairs of em

I would be interested in a set also.

[ska]

SO...pbm knuckles & lca, rack moved forward 25mm and sikky sway bar. so much lock lol
I'm rubbing the wheel wells at full lock and seriously thinking about cutting it.
Does anybody know if the wheel wells have ANY structural integrity? without a tubed front end, is it safe to just cut them out?

Also somebody had mentioned on here that with the steering rack moved forward, accompanied with modded knuckles, it will actually lower your ackerman? So if the PBM knuckles are spec'd at around 8 degrees of ackerman; does anybody know the approximate ackerman with the rack moved 25mm?

[PoorMans180SX]

Wheel wells are structural in a stock unibody car, but with a tube front end it won't matter. I'm in the same boat btw.

[Black R]

I'm going to go half tube front also.

Decide on how much lock, etc you're going to have and then use the biggest wheels and tires you'll ever have up front, then tub or tube it based on that.

[ska]

Reason I also ask is because I would like more airflowing through my engine when im sideways. Sideways aero cooling :-]

[Matej]

What is the stock travel distance of the steering rack?
I know it has been posted plenty of times before, but for some reason I am having quite the difficult time finding the information.


On another note, I am excited for these GKTech rear control arms and the shim-adjustment, especially since I am obsessive about making sure both sides are adjusted the same and thus hate adjustable parts.

[Black R]

Super strut vs macpherson strut vs double wishbone:

http://www.caranddriver.com/features...ined-tech-dept

Nissan Road Racing Forums - View Single Post - Bumpsteering An S13 @ Multiple Steering Angles

[Matej]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

What is the best way to achieve a LITTLE bit more angle, without having to get knuckles?

Join the waiting list.

[Irresistible]

Woah, cool. But what's the price? The whole purpose of me avoiding knuckles is to save some money lol

[Matej]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Woah, cool. But what's the price? The whole purpose of me avoiding knuckles is to save some money lol

169$ plus shipping from Australia. At least that is the projected price.
The nice thing is that you will not need to have your LCA's extended, since they already push the knuckle out 20mm.

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by Matej

169$ plus shipping from Australia. At least that is the projected price.
The nice thing is that you will not need to have your LCA's extended, since they already push the knuckle out 20mm.

Or extend LCAs 25mm and them have that extend another 20mm. Fantastic. I can finally easily achieve the -200* of camber I've always wanted.

That's a pretty good price though, I'll have to look into those a bit.

[dudermagee]

Originally Posted by Matej

169$ plus shipping from Australia. At least that is the projected price.
The nice thing is that you will not need to have your LCA's extended, since they already push the knuckle out 20mm.

Thought they were closer to 300 shipped with a prebuy.....

[Matej]

Originally Posted by dudermagee

Thought they were closer to 300 shipped with a prebuy.....

Here is the post from page 179:

Originally Posted by GKTECH

time for some track testing. The current Australian dollar is good for you guys. The intro price is going to be $199 AUD including our sales tax which is $181AUD excluding our tax = $162USD + delivery.

40mm roll centre correction and a little over 60 degrees of bolt on steering lock.

300$ would be almost a knuckles price, which would defeat the purpose. Though to be honest, I would still prefer these over knuckles since they incorporate the added track width, and I am not trying to do anything crazy with my car.
I am guessing that is the same reason why GKTech seemed a bit reluctant to work on them, as many potential knuckle buyers will probably end up choosing the adapters instead.

[MidwestMyriad]

Originally Posted by Matej

Join the waiting list.

Eagerly waiting

[dudermagee]

Originally Posted by Matej

Here is the post from page 179:


300$ would be almost a knuckles price, which would defeat the purpose. Though to be honest, I would still prefer these over knuckles since they incorporate the added track width, and I am not trying to do anything crazy with my car.
I am guessing that is the same reason why GKTech seemed a bit reluctant to work on them, as many potential knuckle buyers will probably end up choosing the adapters instead.

whoops, my bad. I thought you were talking about the LCA's.

I am going to go with their knuckles as they actually are drop knuckles.

[Matej]

There are so many cool/random parts to collect from GKTech. Cannot decide whether to keep procuring them one by one or risk waiting to order everything together.

Just bought their camber/castor tops.

Originally Posted by dudermagee

whoops, my bad. I thought you were talking about the LCA's.

If only those were 162$ as well.
I really only want them to run them at the shortest setting.

Is it true that S13 RLCA are about 10-15mm shorter than S14 ones? If so, having an S14 subframe would be nice, then I would just try using the S13 RLCA.
Are there any compatible OEM RLCA even shorter than the S13 ones? I have tried looking up every plausible RWD Nissan/Infiniti, though it does not appear so.

[e1_griego]

Pretty sure the s13 and s14 rlcas are the same length, the difference in width comes from the subframe itself (thus the required use of offset bushings).

[NismoPlsr]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Pretty sure the s13 and s14 rlcas are the same length, the difference in width comes from the subframe itself (thus the required use of offset bushings).

Yeap, this is the truth. Track width is 10mm wider in the rear due to wider rear subframe. RLCAs are the same length.

EDIT: Note on rear lower control arms. If you start extending them with GKtech or any aftermarket arm you have to be careful with your axles overextending. This is specially true if you also are running dual caliper add-on brackets that also space out the rear hubs.

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

Yeap, this is the truth. Track width is 10mm wider in the rear due to wider rear subframe. RLCAs are the same length.

EDIT: Note on rear lower control arms. If you start extending them with GKtech or any aftermarket arm you have to be careful with your axles overextending. This is specially true if you also are running dual caliper add-on brackets that also space out the rear hubs.

Yeah, I've seen a few axles separate because of this or whatever other reason...

Where can I pre-buy those knuckle extension/drop thingies? I can't seem to find them on GKtech's website.

I love how they have a bunch of cool little parts like this and that they are still developing and producing many of them. As for the castor top hats, can I run those in conjunction with my Stance camber top hats? I know Stance actually offers the castor top hats, they just don't seem to market them very much. I'd love to be able to control my caster from there as well, but I also want to be able to adjust my camber via the top hats.

[PoorMans180SX]

TDP kit is on sale this month.

[ZacKisBacK_Fr]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

Yeap, this is the truth. Track width is 10mm wider in the rear due to wider rear subframe. RLCAs are the same length.

EDIT: Note on rear lower control arms. If you start extending them with GKtech or any aftermarket arm you have to be careful with your axles overextending. This is specially true if you also are running dual caliper add-on brackets that also space out the rear hubs.

Yep, I can't take my PBM RLCA to the maximum track width because of this axles problem! I'm running R33gtst axles as they are stronger btw but GKtech will soon sell some spacers to fit between the diff and the axles to solve this problem!

Check their FB page for up to date release info or join the mailing list on their website, those knuckle extension and spacers should be available soon, within a few weeks last time I asked them!

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Originally Posted by ska

SO...pbm knuckles & lca, rack moved forward 25mm and sikky sway bar. so much lock lol
I'm rubbing the wheel wells at full lock and seriously thinking about cutting it.
Does anybody know if the wheel wells have ANY structural integrity? without a tubed front end, is it safe to just cut them out?

Also somebody had mentioned on here that with the steering rack moved forward, accompanied with modded knuckles, it will actually lower your ackerman? So if the PBM knuckles are spec'd at around 8 degrees of ackerman; does anybody know the approximate ackerman with the rack moved 25mm?

Better to widen the fender and track width than to cut inside - also easy to add a wheel spacer. Hammer vigorously first and cut as a last resort.

With our knuckle & LCA & 35mm forward inner tie rod offsetter and a decent amount of caster we measured 3* of ackerman at lock

[yetijeff]

Alright this maybe very simple problem but to be honest is it's driving me crazy. I have a 13 hatch. On coilovers, all suspension arm are adjustable, except for the lowere control arms front and back. Cars pretty low but not ungodly scrape in everything low. Now I when it replaced all the suspension arms I "eyeballed it and it turned out pretty decent. No weird characteristics anything like that just a little bit of a left pull. No big deal. I've been ridin around everyday like this for a couple years. So this past weekend I went to get tires put on and I figure why not throw it on the alignment rack and have em dual it in. Now the car has an extreme right pull. As far as the printout I have everything looks copacetic but it's not. My wheel bearings are good, we tried switching the tires around to see if they were worn funny nothing changed. And now my power steering pump sounds like it has air in it and it's harder to turn than it was. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem or if they could point me in the right direction. Does the rack develop a dead spot where over the years where center would be? I don't know what to do he put it back on the rack like 5 times and could not get it straightened out. I also replaced the inner and outer tierods pretty soon after the suspension as well... Any help would b greatly appreciated, sorry for the novel lol

[NismoPlsr]

Originally Posted by ZacKisBacK_Fr

Yep, I can't take my PBM RLCA to the maximum track width because of this axles problem! I'm running R33gtst axles as they are stronger btw but GKtech will soon sell some spacers to fit between the diff and the axles to solve this problem!

Check their FB page for up to date release info or join the mailing list on their website, those knuckle extension and spacers should be available soon, within a few weeks last time I asked them!

Spacers will work. GKtech is making them for 3x2, 5x1, 6x1 bolt patterns for any diff and hub setup.

We are also compiling a comprehensive list of axle lengths over on NRR.

S13 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
S14 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
J30 left - 23-3/8" compressed, 24-1/2" relaxed (early J30)
350Z left - 23-7/8" compressed, 24-3/4" relaxed
Z32NA left - 24-3/8" compressed, 25-1/2" relaxed
Q45 left - 25-1/8" compressed, 26" relaxed (early Q45)

S13 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
S14 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
J30 right - 25-1/4" compressed, 26-1/8" relaxed
350Z right - 25-1/2" compressed, 26-3/8" relaxed
Z32NA right - 26" compressed, 26-7/8" relaxed
Q45 right - 27" compressed, 27-7/8" relaxed

Here are the Z32TT axle lengths (compressed):

Left - 24"
Right - 25 7/8"

OS Giken and real CV's, How to? - Page 7 - Nissan Road Racing Forums

You can see why LH Q45 with LH Z32 TT axles are the choice for 6x1 stub flange diffs in a s-chassis.

[Def]

NRR all up in this thread...

[Matej]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Moonface makes ones with up to 15mm of correction I believe, you really can't go much past 20mm or it starts hitting your rotor. It also increases ackerman substantially.

Why do you need extended ball joints specifically? A much better solution is PSM's forged knuckle, or their Pro-grip knuckle if you're not into faster steering and low ackerman.

This is a dumb question, but what effect do extended 'roll center adjuster' ball joints have in the rear?
The GKTech RLCA come with two different shank lengths for the ball joints, so I have been curious about it.
I suppose I know how they would change the geometry, so my question should actually rather be, would they be beneficial/not beneficial for drifting and how/why?

I know what they are good/bad for in the front, but I am unsure about the rear.