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Old 05-15-2013, 04:33 PM   #5371
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In regards to tie rod boot and offset rack spacers, I am using ERA-1 spacers and the factory boot its able to fit over the inner joint, spacer and sits on the rack just like stock. No modifications necessary, it's stretched to it's limit, but it works.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:13 PM   #5372
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My little doodad so far.
-50mm drop correction
-tie rod arm shortened 18mm
-make-shift jig to calculate center-bores as references 1 degree ackerman (micrometer and some trig ) (due to error ended up being like .6 deg. driver, and like .9 deg passenger I think? I don't remember.)
-3/4" thick notched steel seams for thorough penetration.
-factory angles retained (forgot to change them haha)





I want to make second set of knuckles.
I want to reduce the angle that the ball joint (LCA) pick up on the knuckle, that way LCAs I'm made will fit (lol). When I designed the whole shabang I was going to reduce angle on the knuckles, but I tacked it up and did it all in a hurry tryign to make it to the track on time lol. Then went to go fit my LCA/tension setup, and then oops -_- my new LCA joint sits about maxed out at static camber, so if wheel were to droop (rebound travel) outer joint would actually end up binding. :/ lol
So for now I just run these knuckles and some normal tension rods.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:16 PM   #5373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJZax View Post
My little doodad so far.
-50mm drop correction
-tie rod arm shortened 18mm
-make-shift jig to calculate center-bores as references 1 degree ackerman (micrometer and some trig ) (due to error ended up being like .6 deg. driver, and like .9 deg passenger I think? I don't remember.)
-3/4" thick notched steel seams for thorough penetration.
-factory angles retained (forgot to change them haha)


I want to make second set of knuckles.
I want to reduce the angle that the ball joint (LCA) pick up on the knuckle, that way LCAs I'm made will fit (lol). When I designed the whole shabang I was going to reduce angle on the knuckles, but I tacked it up and did it all in a hurry tryign to make it to the track on time lol. Then went to go fit my LCA/tension setup, and then oops -_- my new LCA joint sits about maxed out at static camber, so if wheel were to droop (rebound travel) outer joint would actually end up binding. :/ lol
So for now I just run these knuckles and some normal tension rods.
Those look pretty good, let us know how the new ones go.

Cool shot of TDP angle. Crazy clutch explosion as well..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyJsjko1GGY
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:21 PM   #5374
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holy crap what happened?! O_O That looks quite chaotic! O_O

I think I saw a pic you posted at evergreen? Do you drift at evergreen speedway too?
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:32 PM   #5375
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holy crap what happened?! O_O That looks quite chaotic! O_O

I think I saw a pic you posted at evergreen? Do you drift at evergreen speedway too?
Haha, no, that was a guy I know Kurtiss, and the car above isn't me either, it's Maciek Wodzinski from Poland. Apparently the clutch failed and then the pressure plate exploded at high rpm, scattering the bell housing and flinging trans fluid onto the hot exhaust.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:19 AM   #5376
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any input on having the front track wider than the rear, now with the angle kit the front is spaced out so its wider than the rear like 3'' overall. should i spaceout the rears the same? front tires are 225/40r18 and rear 265/35r18
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:13 PM   #5377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koukistylejdm View Post
any input on having the front track wider than the rear, now with the angle kit the front is spaced out so its wider than the rear like 3'' overall. should i spaceout the rears the same? front tires are 225/40r18 and rear 265/35r18
This is good. More front track decreases understeer.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:09 PM   #5378
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i dont know if its the knuckles or the alignement and or the widened front track but my car feels very scarry now at high speed
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:50 PM   #5379
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My vote would be the alignment.
Is it aligned or eye balled?
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:03 PM   #5380
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If you just lengthen the control arms you end up with a lot of toe out which would be scary at high speeds. Eyeball alignment won't make the car scary as long as you aren't retarded. My car has been eyeballed for 2 years now without problems. Some day I'll get a real alignment but I change it all the time so I don't see the need to spend the money.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:06 PM   #5381
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its aligned it feels like any small input on the steering wheel at 80mph and over make the car wanna go sideway

specs are:

fr:
Camber -3
caster 7.5
toe out .05

rr:
camber 0
toe in 0.5
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:24 PM   #5382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koukistylejdm View Post
its aligned it feels like any small input on the steering wheel at 80mph and over make the car wanna go sideway

specs are:

fr:
Camber -3
caster 7.5
toe out .05

rr:
camber 0
toe in 0.5
Are your knuckles super super short?
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:28 PM   #5383
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i think so its the powered by max knuckles, shorter steering ratio 62 degrees of angle bla blah
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:19 AM   #5384
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^That's why, it's going to make the steering a lot more sensitive due to the quicker ratio.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:08 AM   #5385
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Last time i could not figure why my car was undrivable, it turned out i had a lot of preload on the front sway bar. I thought i had that checked, but i did not ... You can start by checking this. Otherwise maybe you got bumpsteer issues ?
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:10 AM   #5386
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Could also be the Toe out. It is a small amount but any bit will make any car feel twitchy/loose/scary at high speeds.

And also the short arm knuckles make it worse.
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:36 AM   #5387
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That is very very little toe out. i was running toe out .08 and it still is very close to 0, feeling wise. Not twitchy at all, just somewhat light steering feeling. When entering corners it felt just like a toyota celica (torsen FWD) would react, the front would just fling the car in the corner and try to turn in by itself. Strange feeling in a RWD
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Old 05-23-2013, 04:40 AM   #5388
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I also have 60 degrees of steering lock with very short steering arms, car feels very good driving normally. What specific modifications have you done with your car, a picture of the front suspension would be good too.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:28 AM   #5389
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the swaybars are oem front and rear, the front of the cars feels like it handles and respond so much better now that the rear want to oversteer when i corner at high speed '' the rear feels super light''




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Old 05-23-2013, 07:35 AM   #5390
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What have you done to the rear suspension?
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:36 AM   #5391
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it has evrything , ruca, toe-rod, traction rod, rlca just drop knuckles missing
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:59 AM   #5392
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So ive been thinking that i need to run some sort of front sway bar. Ive been running no front sway and stock rear with polyurethane bushings and endlinks. But the few runs ive been able to drive my car, the front of the car almost sloppy on turn in and mildly on transition. And im now going LS so i really dont think i should keep my surrent setup. But i dont want to lose any of my angle clearance due to some sway bar sticking 2-3inches in front of the wheel well frame rails.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:09 AM   #5393
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So ive been thinking that i need to run some sort of front sway bar. Ive been running no front sway and stock rear with polyurethane bushings and endlinks. But the few runs ive been able to drive my car, the front of the car almost sloppy on turn in and mildly on transition. And im now going LS so i really dont think i should keep my surrent setup. But i dont want to lose any of my angle clearance due to some sway bar sticking 2-3inches in front of the wheel well frame rails.
Answer: Cor Integration sway bar.

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Old 05-23-2013, 10:21 AM   #5394
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Ive looked into Cor but they dont make a bar for the S14
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:33 AM   #5395
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Ive looked into Cor but they dont make a bar for the S14
Yeah but you could make it work. It's the only sway bar on the market that will clear big angle.

That or make yourself a custom blade-type adjustable one...
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:54 AM   #5396
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How different are S13 front bars and S14 bars? Ive heard the sikky bar has some clearance built in but havent found a picture of it installed and showing the clearance.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:55 AM   #5397
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friend of mine has been making knuckles, Heat lightning is the name. he made some rears but only for a FD car. he makes front roll center correction ones all day tho....

set up is..
front.
extended lcas, 20mm. i30 inners, s14 outters, i think its 60mm of roll center correction, stock sway bar, modded tension rod.

rear
PSM rear knuckle, stock lcas, all arms, subframe risers. stock sway bar.

wheels and aling spec.
17x9 -12/18x9.5-4 no spacers at all

f camber, -6
f caster. 6.5
little tiny toe

r camber is at -.4
r toe at -.25

still need to drive the car more but it feel really good. really want psm rear lcas next.

ill get more pics later of everything




8"wheel








our facebook
https://www.facebook.com/heatlightningZ?ref=ts&fref=ts

and a little video. all our cars run roll center correction parts.
Heatlightning DSD event 4/28/2013 on Vimeo
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:05 PM   #5398
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Car looks rad man!
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:31 PM   #5399
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Quote:
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Car looks rad man!
thanks man is just what i think a coupe should look like. lol havent painted it cuz i cant find a local dmax/supermade roof wings and wont put anything else on the car!!!

ive been following this thread for a long time and we made our knuckle models using a lot a of help of this forum and some local FD drivers. my whole car is set up using info from here lol hopefully now i can perfect it to my driving style.

any feed back would be great!
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:44 PM   #5400
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Damn I love this thread! Hardcore info here!!!
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