V8 240sx FAQ

[yokotas13]

lol at a car with no title.
ill need to drive t on the road at some point

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by yokotas13

yeah, but i dont really haev the time or desire to find someoen in the myrtlebeach area that can do the swap. its not like its an awesomely easy swap

if i can find someone that can do it for a reasonable price, id gladly buy a new 350 and trans and have it done, but i dont want to pay out of my ass to do it you know?

Most V8 swaps are ghetto.

I invested a lot of time and planning into mine. Maybe a few people with V8did as well. The rest are not worth the money for parts.

The majority of V8Silvia only aspires to have a driveable car. Most don't have the budget or fortitude to do one all the way to the end. There are a few good samples but they are rare.

You're looking easily at $20k for a swap worthy of being daily driven and trackable. Maybe more if you make mistakes, which you will.

[gsracer]

holy smokes 20k for a swap!!!

I have barely 14 in my WHOLE car and have drifted / tracked the piss out of it and it still looks good and runs relaibly.

Come to think of it in the 2 years since ive swapped, the only things ive broken where a fuel pump and an battery lol.

[g6civcx]

But that's because you know what you're doing.

Whatever you think you have to spend for an SR swap, multiple by 3 for a V8 swap since most parts are custom.

[explicit_RPM]

this was not 20 g's
all SIKKY,DAFT and HINSON stuff, installed by a professional. it was well worth the monies. more like 12 to drive away. decent motor too.

[g6civcx]

Please contact the shop that will be doing the work for the best quote.

From my personal experience, $12k is a bit low for an LS1. Hinson told me $15k would be more comfortable plus a few more to have a good cushion.

Again, don't listen to anyone except the person responsible for your swap.

[Psychomoongoose]

I changed my mind about posting this here imma start a new thread

[WISH ONE]

A guy local to OC took his FD to hinson and they returned it finished with an LS1 for 10k.

[lewisfk]

Who makes an adapter plate so u can run a manuel trans with a vh56 engine?

[gsracer]

no one because there is no such thing as a vh56, there are vh45's, then vk45s and finally vk56.

There is a company in cali that makes vk56 adapters for z33 6 speeds but i cant remember what the company is called.

[GabeS14]

Edited question:
Do LS7 and LS9 motors use the same tranny's and mount kits as the ls1's?
Besides the cost Of the newer motors would the full swap kit for those motors be about the same as the other LS motors?

[cnichols]

I believe the outside dimensions of the blocks are identical to all other LSx blocks and you will be able to use a T56 from an F-body or GTO easily as well. Headers might need to be modified however as the heads for these engines are slightly different and clearance is tight already due to the steering shaft.

LS9 is overpriced. You can make that much power N/A with an LSx/Warhawk/or LS7 block and the right mods and not have to deal with the poopercharger and all the BS that goes with it.

[g6civcx]

All LS-series share the same exterior dimensions.

Originally Posted by g6civcx

There is so much ignorance in this thread. Love it or hate it, please do your research before commenting.

LSX = LS Extreme: LSX Chevy Engine Block - GM Performance Parts - GM High Tech Performance and here GM Performance Parts | LSX Engines

LS series = Gen III and IV LS Engines | LS1 Engine | LS2 Engine | LS7 Engine | LQ9 Engine


I didn't come up with this. GMPP did:

Word Mark LSX
Goods and Services IC 012. US 019 021 023 031 035 044. G & S: engines for land vehicles. FIRST USE: 20070331. FIRST USE IN COMMERCE: 20070331
Standard Characters Claimed
Mark Drawing Code (4) STANDARD CHARACTER MARK
Trademark Search Facility Classification Code LETTER-3-OR-MORE LSX Combination of three or more letters as part of the mark
Serial Number 78911208
Filing Date June 19, 2006
Current Filing Basis 1A
Original Filing Basis 1B
Published for Opposition July 17, 2007
Registration Number 3360877
Registration Date December 25, 2007
Owner (REGISTRANT) General Motors Corporation CORPORATION DELAWARE 300 Renaissance Center P.O. Box 300 Detroit MICHIGAN 482653000
(LAST LISTED OWNER) GENERAL MOTORS LLC LIMITED LIABILITY COMPANY DELAWARE 300 RENAISSANCE CENTER DETROIT MICHIGAN 482653000

Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED
Attorney of Record Timothy G. Gorbatoff
Type of Mark TRADEMARK
Register PRINCIPAL
Live/Dead Indicator LIVE

There is a huge difference between LS series and LSX series GMPP engines. Externally they are similar, but that's where most of the similarities end. http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/En...6454&engCat=ls



At least be respectful and use the right terminology so we know what you're talking about.

You wouldn't want people talking nonsense about SR, KA, RB, VQ, whatever as well.

Educate yourself.

[cnichols]

Actually, I see no problem using the term LSx with a lowercase 'x' as in algebra meaning some unknown number. LSX with a capital 'X' is the actual GMPP block. I think many people are aware of that and I believe using it in this manner IS the proper terminology...or at least is what is widely accepted in the Chevy community. The problem with using 'LS' by itself is you will have the confusion with the Honda LS engine.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by cnichols

Actually, I see no problem using the term LSx with a lowercase 'x' as in algebra meaning some unknown number. LSX with a capital 'X' is the actual GMPP block. I think many people are aware of that and I believe using it in this manner IS the proper terminology...or at least is what is widely accepted in the Chevy community. The problem with using 'LS' by itself is you will have the confusion with the Honda LS engine.

I understand what you are saying, but sadly the vast majority of the population is ignorant.

"lsx", "LSX", "LSx", or any other variations of the three character are registered trademark of GM. All these things are used by GM to refer to the LS-eXtreme family.

Like I said, you can use slangs or whatever you want. I am using the proper terminology according to GM.

It would be more correct to say Chevy Gen III/IV small block V8 if you don't want to use the LS designation.


Like a lot of Chevy guys would say "small block chevy" when they really mean Gen 0/I and possibly Gen II/LT-series, and not the LS-series Gen III/IV.

It's confusing as fuck when you're trying to buy as many parts as I do. Educate yourself.

[nismofiend09]

Lol at the guy thinks it would cost $20k to have a reliable LSx swap. Im sorry but even $10k is a bit much. I have pieced and sourced most of my stuff together already and only have close to $4k in it.

LQ9 6.0L $600
Ls1 intake $free
T56 $1200
GTO oil pan $250
Ms3 cam kit $450
mounts and modded subframe $250
Long tubes $400
driveshaft $150

Some stuff may even cost me a little less. I already have some of it and plan to do a lot myself. I just don't see where people really think it is gonna cost that much. Yeah sure....if you want a built aluminum blocked LS maybe. But for just a C/I/E swap you should only have maybe $6k into it. That is with a new clutch and the little nickle and dime parts included. You just need to shop around and check out different options. LS1tech, LS1gto, etc will definitely be your friends during this process.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by nismofiend09

Lol at the guy thinks it would cost $20k to have a reliable LSx swap. Im sorry but even $10k is a bit much.

Finish building your car. Pass emissions, inspection, and tech. Then come back and talk.

A new LSX376 crate engine costs $6k alone.

The LSX was never sold in any production car so you can't buy one used from a junkyard. Maybe if you can find one used from the hot rod and racing crowd.

LQ9 is not LSX.

If you want cheaper, you can get a new Gen0 small block for $1,500 new.

Over the past couple of years, a lot of people told me that $15k is too much for a street legal daily driveable Gen IV swap. Interesting that not a single one of them came back with a complete car. Most of these projects never come through.

[GabeS14]

I totally understand civicx but the guys used LSx, as in any variable of the LS engine.
not LSX as you typed, I am super new to the LS and I totally picked up on what people are saying, so cant be that horrible to use the term that way.

it'll keep less drama in the thread to let it be.

and I agree if someone is trying to do a crate engine and then have a shop put everyhthing together it seams the $20k mark is about right.from the research Iv'e done so far
But I have also seen full engine and trany's for sale for less than $3k, so the $20 mark is kinda high if you are buying a used setup and doing at least half the work yourself.

[nismofiend09]

Originally Posted by g6civcx

Finish building your car. Pass emissions, inspection, and tech. Then come back and talk.

A new LSX376 crate engine costs $6k alone.

The LSX was never sold in any production car so you can't buy one used from a junkyard. Maybe if you can find one used from the hot rod and racing crowd.

LQ9 is not LSX.

If you want cheaper, you can get a new Gen0 small block for $1,500 new.

Over the past couple of years, a lot of people told me that $15k is too much for a street legal daily driveable Gen IV swap. Interesting that not a single one of them came back with a complete car. Most of these projects never come through.

Im not a noob to the LS"x" world by any means. I have owned and built some LS powered cars in my past. An LQ9 is considered to be part of the same family and has just as much power potential. I only chose this route to save a little on the swap and because I plan to stay N/A and go with an L92 setup.

As stated by others....most people refer to LSx as the generation of motors. Not the GMPP block itself.

I dont plan or have to pass emissions where I live. My car is a track car only, but has always been reliable enough to drive on the street. I actually chose this route for more reliability...and I miss the power of my past cars too lol.

Oh and my project WILL come through and under a $6k budget too.

[Siberian Husky]

I really want to know more about the lq9 option. 88 pounds heavier, but a cheaper alternative that could easily do 400whp with a mild cam and some accessory breathing mods is what I am reading.

how bad is the added weight to a small chassi like an s13? also, i understand that the lq9 has lower compression internals?

[GabeS14]

Originally Posted by Siberian Husky

I really want to know more about the lq9 option. 88 pounds heavier, but a cheaper alternative that could easily do 400whp with a mild cam and some accessory breathing mods is what I am reading.

how bad is the added weight to a small chassi like an s13? also, i understand that the lq9 has lower compression internals?

I believe RB25's and 26 and 2jz's weigh even more, so can't be that bad seeing the popularity of the engines I mentioned.

[Siberian Husky]

Total Dressed Engine Weight: LS1
Auto. - 457.6 lbs. (208 kg) (Flexplate)
Manual - 497.2 lbs (226 kg) (Pressure Plate and Fly Wheel)
T56 Tranny: 150 lbs (overestimation) T56 weight - LS1TECH

Total Ls1+t56= 650 Lbs, not including piping, but engine fully dressed

The iron blocks are roughly 100 lbs more than the aluminum ls1.

RB25DET with Tranny: 750lbs
weight difference of rb25det with tranny vs sr20det/tranny - HybridZ (Post #10)

So an lq9 set up would weigh very similar to an RB set up.

The only reason why im exploring this is because one of the main reasons the lq9 is avoided is to avoid nose heaviness. Im wondering if this concern with weight is unfounded, because honestly, lq9 blocks are DIRT CHEAP!

[ds13]

smog question, so i keep reading that all you have to do is keep all the emission stuff for it to be smog legal. would i have to ref it or would i just be able to take it to a smog shop?

[GabeS14]

Originally Posted by ds13

smog question, so i keep reading that all you have to do is keep all the emission stuff for it to be smog legal. would i have to ref it or would i just be able to take it to a smog shop?

yes REF is required to make it a legal swap.

[ds13]

also what headers would fit to keep it smog legal? or do the headers even matter as long as you have the cats?

[TougeLove]

last time i checked as long as you keep the cats your good. well keep them for the inspection

[ItaliaBrat]

Just bought a 96 240 with a LQ9 swap and wondering if there are any reliable trust worthy Techs in the DC area? Want to get this thing tuned to my liking and work out any minor bugs. Any information would be great! PM if anyone has any info.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by Siberian Husky

Total Dressed Engine Weight: LS1
Auto. - 457.6 lbs. (208 kg) (Flexplate)
Manual - 497.2 lbs (226 kg) (Pressure Plate and Fly Wheel)
T56 Tranny: 150 lbs (overestimation) T56 weight - LS1TECH

Total Ls1+t56= 650 Lbs, not including piping, but engine fully dressed

The iron blocks are roughly 100 lbs more than the aluminum ls1.

RB25DET with Tranny: 750lbs
weight difference of rb25det with tranny vs sr20det/tranny - HybridZ (Post #10)

So an lq9 set up would weigh very similar to an RB set up.

The only reason why im exploring this is because one of the main reasons the lq9 is avoided is to avoid nose heaviness. Im wondering if this concern with weight is unfounded, because honestly, lq9 blocks are DIRT CHEAP!

The T56 weights 142lbs, you can save 72lbs by going with a T-10 or one of its siblings (ST10 or Richmond T-10). If this is a track car only, no reason not to rock the 4spd, brand new Richmond only runs for about $1,500.

[twistedsymphony]

Originally Posted by g6civcx

Over the past couple of years, a lot of people told me that $15k is too much for a street legal daily driveable Gen IV swap. Interesting that not a single one of them came back with a complete car. Most of these projects never come through.

here you go:
just under $8K into the swap including every last bolt, clamp, fluids and length of wire used. I started with a bone stock S14 so nothing was "borrowed" from a previous build. It uses a "real" LS1 out of a corvette. And while I did most of the wrenching myself, I have no welding or fabrication skills so for all of that I paid someone else to do it.

It's been registered, inspected, and emissions tested in my state, I retained all functionality including ABS, and while I'm still waiting for my AC lines all the equipment is there and it's already wired for it. I'd call this car quite "daily-drivable".

I didn't do a wire tuck but I think the engine bay looks "clean" if not OEM in terms of build quality.


^thats the picture I took once everything in the engine bay was complete, the only difference now is the hood is back on and the battery is hooked up. Most of the swap parts were brand new and name brand, brand new koyo rad, brand new flex-a-lite fans, brand new wilwood clutch master and GM slave, brand new Exedy clutch and flywheel, brand new sikky sway-bar, brand new shaft-masters drive shaft, etc. I even went out of my way to use either OEM or T-bolt clamps on hoses, or in some cases (such as fuel and Power steering) Stainless Steel lines with AN fittings.

here's a video of the first start before the exhaust was built:
YouTube - Silvette LS1 S14 - First Start

[Siberian Husky]

can someone chime in about using the lq9 block with an ls1/6 intake mani and fbody dressings (pulleys) instead of an ls1 set up?