LS1 powered S14 with motorplates and modded GTO pan

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by SicBastard

Dear Baller Bolts,

I haven made several attempts to contact you regarding your shipping the wrong bolts to me in January. You refuse to answer emails, and your voice mail box is perpetually full. I am escalating this problem to my credit card company, and I will join scores of others in spreading the word of your shady practices on my website, build threads, and facebook.

Disgruntled,

-Dru Nichols, M.D.

You are not the only one:

http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/362128-baller-bolts.html

[SicBastard]

Yeah, I even saw a bunch of post like those on their own facebook page.

I am a dumb.

[OutlawLui]

Nice build

[SicBastard]

Originally Posted by evilpanamajack

Nice build

Thanks!

Sorry there havn't been more posts lately guys. I totally nerded out and got all excited about the filtering ability of Donaldson's newer generation of air filters (they filter down below 10 micron), but after crunching a BUNCH of numbers I came to the sad realization that it would take a ~backpack sized Donaldson airfilter to not substantially limit horsepower on a 600hp car.

I've also been saving for a few months to pay for a three month long TIG welding class that starts next week. So check back for absolutely rediculous headers. And when I finally am able to weld a soda can back together I'll take a stab at a coolant swirl tank and dry sump breather/catch can too.

[jr_ss]

Sic, don't you think it's time to move this to the build section?

[SicBastard]

Was there even a build thread section when I started this thread a million years ago? If a mod wants to move it, thats fine with me.

[jr_ss]

Nah, there wasn't. Then again I'm not sure what decade this build thread started, perhaps before the creation of Zilvia?

[Sir]

Diesel guys use the fine filters to extend their oil change intervals, but they use them as bypass and not a replacement to their main filter.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[GSXRJJordan]

Dude this car is still being built?!

Originally Posted by Sir

Diesel guys use the fine filters to extend their oil change intervals, but they use them as bypass and not a replacement to their main filter.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

He's talking about air filters, not oil filters.

[Sir]

Doh! I was just talking to somebody about this today I get oil filters must have been on my mind

[SicBastard]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Dude this car is still being built?!



He's talking about air filters, not oil filters.

Slow and steady...

A backpack sized oil filter lol

[SicBastard]

I'm using pipe max software to help me calculate my header dimensions for a 4" stroked LS2, with hand ported LS3 heads with a cam some where around 236/240 on 112 +1. But Pipe Max requires an estimate of VE to make the calculation. The exhaust will basically be running open collectors, and I'm presuming the ~15 degrees of overlap at 0.050" should be enough to get me over 100% VE. There are quite a few combos out there similar to mine putting down close to 500 whp. That's got to be 575-600 at the crank. Presuming a max rpm of 7000-7200 that's ~110% VE, correct?

I'm posting this in the PCM section because I figure a lot of you guys tune your fuel by VE, and I'm wondering what your highest VE cells are?

[SicBastard]

Since there's a whole lot of nothin goin on while I'm taking my TIG class I thought that I'd post up what I learned about air filters. Air filters are tested by having a dust with known micron size particles exposed to them. Supposedly most engines get most of their wear from particles around and below 10 micron.

Here's a quote from Amsoil,
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...ine%20wear.pdf

"The value of superior filtration is often underestimated. Removal of contaminants ranging in size from 2 to 22 microns (μ) is key to ensuring maximum filtration protection."

K&N filters work pretty well, but I'm not confident that they are really cleaning up down below 10 micron. And particles in that range that make it past your air filter will be blown (in small amounts) past your rings into your oil, where it will cause engine wear like a nice slurry of sandpaper until you change your oil. Most oil filters don't clean up down there either (that's why I'm running a canton oil filter). But Donaldson G2 air filters just might.

Of course there's a problem...

They're F'n HUGE!

Here's a little chart I made of some of the newer Donaldson Filters, their dimensions, and the likely CFM required by my application. It's quick and dirty presuming 2 CFM are required per hp.


I'm pretty sure this is the PSD10 filter with modular case


Here's a model I mad of a PSD10



Volant recently started offering Donaldson filter in some of their cold air intake kits. Their kit for the Hummer H2 actually comes with both a normal cotton gauze cone filter AND a Donaldson. I suspect you're supposed to use the Donaldson if you actually plan on keeping your truck more than 10 years, and use the cone filter if you're willing to saccrifice a little wear for 5 hp.

With the CFM flow requirements I have, there's no way to fit a proper size Donaldson under the hood of a 240sx, even the new/smaller G2 series. I'll probably be using a huge K&N. With ~3 gallons of oil and the canton fuel filter, I'm sure my engine can get over it.

[Vernon593]

OTWPAHC, Where is that surge tank from? And what did you do for headers? Nice work on getting that frankenstein motor in there!

[SicBastard]

Originally Posted by Vernon593

OTWPAHC, Where is that surge tank from? And what did you do for headers? Nice work on getting that frankenstein motor in there!

There's no surge tank in there yet, I'm not sure what you're seeing, if you're referring to the 2.5 gallon tank in the trunk, it's a used Peterson dry sump tank I got off ebay. I'm taking a TIG welding class at Wilson Tech right now, and will be building the headers over the next few months using some Nascar surplus Tri-Y collectors I also got off ebay. Once I get a little better wedling aluminum I'm going to make a swirl tank/coolant expansion tank that goes before the radiator, and then a breather tank for the drysump tank that's in the trunk.

[2muchboost]

Any progress on this brah????? I am still in suspense

[SicBastard]

Originally Posted by 2muchboost

Any progress on this brah????? I am still in suspense

No progress to speak of. I wasn't able to get sh!t done during my TIG class. In the words of my teacher, "this is a welding class, not a fabrication class." And when it was all said and done I realized I really need to save up and buy a TIG machine. Right after I've upgraded my house to 200 amp service...

And to make matters worse, I'm commuting 4 hours each day into New York City, and am still paying off a wedding ring. On the bright side I got some really cool stainless straps (coated in rubber) with turnbuckles for the fuel cell straps. The were originally purposed to hold down radio equipment on an Army truck! Visa also credited me back all of the money that I paid Baller Bolts! Yeah! F*ck those guys.

I've also kept myself busy with a little homebrewin. Took a few days off last week for the National Homebrew Conference in Philidelphia, where my Bourbon Barrel Aged Imperial Stout, "Nameless Grave" had progressed to the second round of the national competition! Good times, and epic beers!

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by SicBastard

I've also kept myself busy with a little homebrewin. Took a few days off last week for the National Homebrew Conference in Philidelphia, where my Bourbon Barrel Aged Imperial Stout, "Nameless Grave" had progressed to the second round of the national competition! Good times, and epic beers!

Good job. I thought about going. I haven't brewed in some tenish yrs. I'm very much a beer drinker, but whatever I made was never superb. My wine otoh, was a giant killer.

[codyace]

[QUOTE=SicBastard;5340098
I've also kept myself busy with a little homebrewin. Took a few days off last week for the National Homebrew Conference in Philidelphia, where my Bourbon Barrel Aged Imperial Stout, "Nameless Grave" had progressed to the second round of the national competition! Good times, and epic beers![/QUOTE]

That's good stuff. Hit up any good bars? Eulogy is a personal fave down there.



And 4 hours commute? Where are you living? Even from where I live (poconos) it doesn't take that long...damn!

[GSXRJJordan]

Stop being a fuckin grown up and get this done.

Haha <3

[SicBastard]

We hit up Farmers Cabinet, and then Good Dog, because we heard through the grapevine that they had Pliney the Elder on tap. We also drove out to Victory.

This grown up sh!t sucks. The juvenile delinquent in me wants to just blow up the credit card and get it done! But I'm more than halfway throug the build, and have paid cash for everything. When its finally done, it'll be the first car I ever owned outright that was worth keeping.

I commute on both the Long Island Railroad, followed by the NYC subway. 2 hours eachway, M-F. I moved out of Manhatten last summer, but at least I'm by the beach, and have a garage At my house now.

[2muchboost]

Yeah I hear ya....growing up sucks. I had to make a last minute business investment decision which destroyed my 95% complete 2JZ swap The delinquent in me also wanted to say....Fuck it bring the debt on!

I have been watching closely for a while. I am in Bay Shore so I know what you mean about the beach. I am also embarking on a V8 swap now that the 2J stuff is being parted....except this time I am not going so balls deep into my build. Some day I shall grow up and stop spending money on car stuff......NAH

[SicBastard]

Originally Posted by 2muchboost

. I am also embarking on a V8 swap now that the 2J stuff is being parted....except this time I am not going so balls deep into my build. Some day I shall grow up and stop spending money on car stuff......NAH

Part of me wishes I had just grabbed a junk yard aluminum truck 5.3 cheap, just to get on the road, rather than my boss hog L76 408. You can always upgrade latter, and then in the mean time at least you're on the road.

[2muchboost]

Yeah thats kind of the plan for now except it will be a 6.0 for me Cars been sitting long enough I just want to get the essentials and get this puppy back on the road.

I do have to say that I have very rarely seen this level of detail on a build....and this is coming from an engineer.....very impressive.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by SicBastard

I'm using pipe max software to help me calculate my header dimensions for a 4" stroked LS2, with hand ported LS3 heads with a cam some where around 236/240 on 112 +1. But Pipe Max requires an estimate of VE to make the calculation. The exhaust will basically be running open collectors, and I'm presuming the ~15 degrees of overlap at 0.050" should be enough to get me over 100% VE. There are quite a few combos out there similar to mine putting down close to 500 whp. That's got to be 575-600 at the crank. Presuming a max rpm of 7000-7200 that's ~110% VE, correct?

I'm posting this in the PCM section because I figure a lot of you guys tune your fuel by VE, and I'm wondering what your highest VE cells are?

VE generally follows torque. And peak torque is usually your peak VE. Most V8 engines will peak torque well before 6,000rpm. It would take a LOT more cam than 23X @ .050 to get your peak torque that late. Also, most engines will never see 110% VE when they are naturally aspirated. It is not uncommon for tuned port engines (such as TPI long runner intake engines) to generate a peak VE of higher than 100%, but this is very short lived, and the effect is opposite (reduces VE) at other rpms because the same effect ("helmholtz") that pushes VE above 100 pulls it away from 100 at other rpm. This is really just a guess but your engine may peak VE around 5200, maybe even sooner. By 6,200rpm VE will be dropping somewhere around 90% or less in most cases. and by 7,000rpm it should be below 85%.


Yes most tuning is done by VE maps. You think to yourself, where will peak torque be? And that is usually your peak injector on-time per cylinder event.
Then you ask yourself where is my peak horsepower? And That is usually your peak injector duty cycle.

Keep in mind if running open collector you will negate any positive effects of exhaust gas scavenging at all low rpms. basically the engine VE will suffer dramatically and it will be very un-friendly and slow when trying to drive it normally. having overlap is a great help when there is some reasonable exhaust gas velocity to help pull the charge from the chamber during overlap. With your open collector all your overlap is going to do below 5,500 rpm is contaminate your intake charge with exhaust gas and reduce your VE. I challenge you to install a real exhaust system (3" single pipe is enough for 500 horses) and you will notice an enormous difference with the way the vehicle drives at low engine speeds.

[SicBastard]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

VE generally follows torque. And peak torque is usually your peak VE. Most V8 engines will peak torque well before 6,000rpm. It would take a LOT more cam than 23X @ .050 to get your peak torque that late. Also, most engines will never see 110% VE when they are naturally aspirated. It is not uncommon for tuned port engines (such as TPI long runner intake engines) to generate a peak VE of higher than 100%, but this is very short lived, and the effect is opposite (reduces VE) at other rpms because the same effect ("helmholtz") that pushes VE above 100 pulls it away from 100 at other rpm. This is really just a guess but your engine may peak VE around 5200, maybe even sooner. By 6,200rpm VE will be dropping somewhere around 90% or less in most cases. and by 7,000rpm it should be below 85%.


Yes most tuning is done by VE maps. You think to yourself, where will peak torque be? And that is usually your peak injector on-time per cylinder event.
Then you ask yourself where is my peak horsepower? And That is usually your peak injector duty cycle.

Keep in mind if running open collector you will negate any positive effects of exhaust gas scavenging at all low rpms. basically the engine VE will suffer dramatically and it will be very un-friendly and slow when trying to drive it normally. having overlap is a great help when there is some reasonable exhaust gas velocity to help pull the charge from the chamber during overlap. With your open collector all your overlap is going to do below 5,500 rpm is contaminate your intake charge with exhaust gas and reduce your VE. I challenge you to install a real exhaust system (3" single pipe is enough for 500 horses) and you will notice an enormous difference with the way the vehicle drives at low engine speeds.

Thanks for the reply. It's easy to forget that peak pulse width does not equal peak VE! Thanks for the reminder, sometimes those tables all get a little fuzzy in my head. When I say open collectors I'm really referring to tuned length collectors opening into an expansion chamber. Empirically I have a bunch of dyno charts on these engines that show no losses down to as low as 3000 rpm with 15 degrees of overlap (@ 0.050" lift) with durations in the 230s-240s, and with the extra 50 ft lbs the 4" stroke gives me, low rpm torque is not something I'm too worried about.

Pipe max also will calculate hp for you, so after I put all of the parameters in, I just kept bumping the VE until the horsepower prediction matched the real world dynos that I have for similar combos. Pipe max also has starting point VE suggestions.

[SicBastard]

I've been gearing up for the header build for a while. I installed 220v in my garage for my new to me Lincoln Precision TIG 185. I also build a cart for it that allowed me to stack my MIG on it vertically to save space.





I'll probably be ordering the raw materials for the headers from these guys pretty soon. Tube Bending & Fabrication - Columbia River Mandrel Bending looks like about $600 in raw materials.

I've also been working on mounting the fuel cell with these cool stainless tie downs I got from an army radio truck. They have clevis pins that should make removal a snap.







Also scored a valved fuel fitting for Christmas that should make life a little easier when working on the engine.



I scored a set of SPL front tension rods. The thick aluminum is impressively light, and the adjusters seem really high quality. I've always lusted for their high end parts. Happy day.

I did some test fitting with a new Sikky front 32mm sway bar. I definitely don't need the extra offset that's built into the sway bar, but the quality end links, and mounting hardware make it a great value IMO.

[Broadfield]

Damn you!... I wish I could score some time to work on my car. I'd kill for that welding rig... mainly the TIG.

[GSXRJJordan]

Been a while since I've seen updates here! Interesting idea with the welders, but I actually really like it haha. I have a Lincoln Precision 185 that's been our workhorse here at the shop for years, awesome for anything except intercooler cores (need way more than 185a AC).

Fuel cell looks rad, and I agree the Sikky swap bar is the way to go for a bolt-on solution. We did a Speedway tubular NASCAR setup on my car because we needed a welded front cross-bar anyway.

This is my new LSA-based engine, went full retard. You think this thing'll be finished someday?

[SicBastard]

That LSA motor looks full kit for sure. Any video links? I love the sound of those Vortechs! I'm glad to hear your 185 has been a work horse, I scored mine used and have been a little apprehensive. Especially with that weird optical voltage selector. I do think she'll be finished some day. I have a spread sheet for the budget, and at my current rate, I should have all the parts I need in about 2 years... But when it's all done I'll have a $20k car and no debt! Slow and steady. Plus my garage is getting updates as fast as the car, which will always be nice. I'm also converting a harbor freight 14" wood bandsaw over for metal cutting duty. I ordered a custom blade for it, should make getting nice cuts for the headers a bit easier.