This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[mikerbike]

Originally Posted by delado

Right. Well that will take care of the rear. Now my concern is the front.

I'm sure he was talking about the MAX Pro knuckles for the front.

EDIT:
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?15

Dan also said he can make the knuckles with the 40mm roll center correction but leave the tir rod pickup alone, if you don't want to change your steering ratio.

[thefro526]

I'm aware that the PBM Pro Knuckle can be made to a grip/normal spec - I actually have PBM Arms/Knuckles/Everything on My 1J S13, I was just looking to see if there was an alternative...

Maybe I'll just live with the bump steer for now and look into doing knuckles next spring/summer.

[delado]

Originally Posted by thefro526

I'm aware that the PBM Pro Knuckle can be made to a grip/normal spec - I actually have PBM Arms/Knuckles/Everything on My 1J S13, I was just looking to see if there was an alternative...

Maybe I'll just live with the bump steer for now and look into doing knuckles next spring/summer.

I'm trying to stir away from having to modify, or purchase drop knuckles.

I'm just trying to avoid premature tire wear and right now my fronts get eaten up suuuuuuper quick. I'm not into grip/drift at the moment. What would be the difference from running spl outters vs. the drop knuckles besides of course adding more angle and all that other cool drifting stuff.

[mikerbike]

I would also like the best of everything without paying for any of it. Good luck.

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by delado

I'm trying to stir away from having to modify, or purchase drop knuckles.

I'm just trying to avoid premature tire wear and right now my fronts get eaten up suuuuuuper quick. I'm not into grip/drift at the moment. What would be the difference from running spl outters vs. the drop knuckles besides of course adding more angle and all that other cool drifting stuff.

I just saw your earlier post, I'm not sure why I didn't read it more thoroughly before.

How low is your S14? Mine isn't 'slammed' by any means, but it's fairly low/lower than some cars and I wasn't confident that I could align it well enough with stock parts, especially in the rear.

I'd suggest that you look into getting the car aligned first and then deal with any issues that are still there. Prior to getting my S14 aligned, it was nearly impossible to drive at any speed in excess of 45 miles an hour unless the road was completely smooth. Any little bit of a bump in the road would cause the car to want to steer in a random direction. After the alignment, the car is much more predictable and smooth, with just a slight amount of bump steer, not enough to be unbearable but enough to bother me. My front suspension is all OEM or OEM replacement stuff, excluding coil overs and we were able to get everything except for the camber (due to wheel width and chassis asymmetry) to align within OEM specs - the rear on the other hand has adjustable RUCAs and Toe Arms, which were enough to get the toe straightened out and dial out most of the Negative Camber. IIRC, my car is currently at something like 0* Toe all around, 2.5* of camber front and rear and 7* of castor up front.

[huffandpuff00]

Every problem with tire wear comes to be an alignment is needed. The shop you take it to should have your cars alignment specs and as long as the toe is around 0 you will not have a problem.

^^^That alignment sounds good. Caster somewhere between 7 and 8*. Toe zero. And whatever camberyou want for front.

[delado]

Thanks a bunch for the tips guys. I'll just replace the inner and outer tie-rods with oem (moog), replace rack bushings, get spl camber and toe arms, and take my shit to the alignment shop. thefro562 my s14 is not hella slammed by no means. It's on Stance Coils and on 18's running 255/35/18 - 225/40/18 and just flush. No rim tucking here. Also, how do the dial in the caster? Are your tension rods and traction rods adjustable? Or were they OEM?

[RastaS14]

^Caster is dialed in by way of adjustable Tension Rods. I have SPL Titaniums. They are great, very beefy and lightweight.

[Z33dori]

HOT POCKETS?

[KA240SX808]

I see provisions for ABS. Hopefully that'll be an option

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by delado

Thanks a bunch for the tips guys. I'll just replace the inner and outer tie-rods with oem (moog), replace rack bushings, get spl camber and toe arms, and take my shit to the alignment shop. thefro562 my s14 is not hella slammed by no means. It's on Stance Coils and on 18's running 255/35/18 - 225/40/18 and just flush. No rim tucking here. Also, how do the dial in the caster? Are your tension rods and traction rods adjustable? Or were they OEM?

I have stock Tension rods for now, luckily my caster wasn't all messed up. I don't like the idea of adjusting caster from the tension rod anyway, see my reason below.

Originally Posted by RastaS14

^Caster is dialed in by way of adjustable Tension Rods. I have SPL Titaniums. They are great, very beefy and lightweight.

Caster can be adjusted to some degree with tension rods, but it isn't really the 'Right' way to do it, especially if you have stock lower control arms.

Basically, when you adjust caster at the tension rod you start twisting the bushing, which can cause it to bind/wear prematurely, etc. If you look at your front suspension from the bottom up, you'll see what I'm talking about. (if you've got spherical in your LCA, ignore this)

I prefer to use the tension rod to control the position of the wheel in the wheel well and that's it. For caster adjustment, I like to use the upper strut mount. Some coils have caster/camber plates for the upper mount and if they don't, you can get away with rotating the plate 120* or so and adjusting caster from there. (messes with your camber though, so it's not the ideal solution...)

[Motary]

I like how max guys upload lotsa pics and share only one, I tend to change last nr on their link to see more







They look neat, a lot like ones I made





I've inspired something

[nieko]

IIRC they used the same specs as their own cut and weld knuckles. These are just forged. Regardless, good shit!

[GKTECH]

Our pre buy is now live at $545 + shipping for non Australian customers (our listed price of $599 on the website is including tax which will get removed when you list your country as international)

We've finally been able to figure our new website out and the pre buy for the knuckles is now live at $599 including GST for our Aussie customers and $545 excluding tax for our international customers.

We're still doing some final tests before we go into the final production which will take around 2-3 weeks and then production will take around 3-4 weeks so we're expecting the knuckles to be available in around 5-7 weeks time however we will not be rushing our tests as if there is an improvement to be made, we will not compromise the product (as seen with the tweaks that we made to the V1)

We've ended up with 4 different steering arms, 2 different brake caliper mounts and you can choose whether you're running S13 or S14/S15 spindle, S13 or S14/S15 ball joint and either S13 (12mm) or S14/S15 (14mm) strut mount inserts. These are certainly not a 'one size fits all' knuckle like others on the market. These are unique in many ways are are FAR superior to any offering from any brand.

The knuckles can be ordered here and are on a first come first served basis. We are making 50 pairs in the first batch but we have had MASSIVE amounts of interest from all around the world:


These are a slightly revised version of our initial prototypes seen here:

[wawazat8402]

GKTech,

PMd you for preorder info.

[jaysgottaredtop]

drop spindles for eeeeeeeveryone!

[scottie]

GKTech,

Just so I am on the same page, the brake caliper mount, ball joint and shock mount will only come one way as ordered. BUT the tie rod connection arm will be changeable later? So say my car serves double duty as track and drift, I could switch out the connection arm depending on my purpose for the car?

And as far as determining what to order, if I currently run S14 fronts on my S13 chassis, with inserts to mount S13 coilovers to the spindles, I would simply order S14 setup with S13 shock mount?

[TTnickdizzle]

With all this aftermarket support coming out for the S chassis, someone please tell me again why i shouldnt ditch my Z32s double wishbone front suspension out for a macphersion front....

[IThaJokaI]

Originally Posted by TTnickdizzle

With all this aftermarket support coming out for the S chassis, someone please tell me again why i shouldnt ditch my Z32s double wishbone front suspension out for a macphersion front....

Because GKtech is also going to be making a steering knuckle for R/Z/G chassis.

[godrifttoday]

Gk tech how much does the spindle drop the car?

[My$800S14]

It looks like the 2nd from the bottom tie rod bracket has negative Ackerman, is it just an illusion, and this arm is actually designed for zero Ackerman? Also it's really cool that this design appears to have hieght adjustment in the tie rod bracket.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[mr2thomas]

Pretty sure its for the opposite end. You can swap them and make it negative ackerman if you want.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by scottie

GKTech,

Just so I am on the same page, the brake caliper mount, ball joint and shock mount will only come one way as ordered. BUT the tie rod connection arm will be changeable later? So say my car serves double duty as track and drift, I could switch out the connection arm depending on my purpose for the car?

And as far as determining what to order, if I currently run S14 fronts on my S13 chassis, with inserts to mount S13 coilovers to the spindles, I would simply order S14 setup with S13 shock mount?

The only thing that can't be changed out at a later date is the spindle (it's shrink fit into the knuckle).

Everything else is modular and can be purchased on its own.

The steering arms will be around $99/pair and they'll be available on their own in the coming days (we're currently in the States for SEMA and have limited access to a computer but will update the website with these items ASAP)

What you've said about yours setup sounds right and you can just choose which ball joint you're running (the guy before me installed S13 ball joints on my S15 and never noticed, luckly I did as they didn't seat properly)

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by IThaJokaI

Because GKtech is also going to be making a steering knuckle for R/Z/G chassis.

We're just finishing off the design for the rear knuckles now and as soon as that is done we'll move across to the R/Z chassis.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Gk tech how much does the spindle drop the car?

The spindle has a 40mm drop

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by My$800S14

It looks like the 2nd from the bottom tie rod bracket has negative Ackerman, is it just an illusion, and this arm is actually designed for zero Ackerman? Also it's really cool that this design appears to have hieght adjustment in the tie rod bracket.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

The second arm from the bottom offers zero ackerman (not negative).

The design does allow for height adjustment. Originally we had infite adjustment up and down 20mm's each way however we've simplified the design a little.

Refer to these images below:

[Johnny_K]

R those new pbm knuckes?

[IThaJokaI]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

We're just finishing off the design for the rear knuckles now and as soon as that is done we'll move across to the R/Z chassis.

I know and I cannot wait for both. I will be picking up front/rear Z setups for my G50 Q45.

[scottie]

GKTech,

You may have already cleared this previously but will this spindle have provisions for an ABS sensor?

[IThaJokaI]

Originally Posted by scottie

GKTech,

You may have already cleared this previously but will this spindle have provisions for an ABS sensor?

If you look at the picture in post #4754, you can see the provision for the ABS sensor in both of the brake brackets shown.