The fabrication thread.

[180wanabe1]

New welder i picked up back in November


First cage i have done with the new welder

had to make some s14 style uca's (they were the first thing i welded with this thing and i was playing around with the pulse settings)

Some ramps i made for my uncles trailer (pulsed mig on aluminum is AWESOME)


Now i just need to get a tig torch for my welder and start working on that!

[blu808]

Custom Torque arm

Cnc cut the side plates.




Lower radiator support and tow hook mount on our Ls6 E36 M3

[trickey1991]

Originally Posted by like_em_sidewayzz

i know this is such a stupid/noob question but what piping do you guys use for manifolds ? like the wall thickness and the inside on the pipe ? and why. and do you guys use stainless steel or mild steel ? thanks to who ever answers.

Sched10 I believe.

dunno the thickness

[Sennate]

blu808 is like god at working on cars.

[D.Adams]

Originally Posted by duffman1278

Nice buy!! What's the thickest material you've welded on it so far? I really would like to get one

I'm going to rub some 1/4 and 3/8 today I will post pics .

But I finished my welding cart last night.

[shiftdrift]

[Fred Allen Burge]

When tig welding how do you determine when you should be using filler rod and when you can "fuse" weld.

Also, I see there's a lot of variance in the width of tig beads from one guy to the next, do you use different diameter filler rod for different applications or is it something else causing it?

[atutt]

Originally Posted by Fred Allen Burge

When tig welding how do you determine when you should be using filler rod and when you can "fuse" weld.

Also, I see there's a lot of variance in the width of tig beads from one guy to the next, do you use different diameter filler rod for different applications or is it something else causing it?

It's a mixture of: Tungsten type, angle of the sharpening on the tungsten, diameter of the tungsten, distance between the tungsten and work piece, thickness of the material, joint type, bevel type, amperage, filler rod diameter, feed speed, how much filler rod is fed, and the welder themselves. No two welders are alike.

[240 GTR]

Tube front I'm doing for my 2012 Formula D car.

[PerilousActs]

Lookin good!

I like that strut bar a lot.

[PIN GIO 2]

blu808, you order cnc from "AA fab & autoworks"?

[drift937]

Originally Posted by 240 GTR

Tube front I'm doing for my 2012 Formula D car.

your shits weak babe. no but looks good mike

[blu808]

PIN GIO 2:

We have our own CNC machine in house.

[drift937]

here is the angle kit i have been working on
enjoy

[Jonnie Fraz]

In the shop today...

[Acidz]

4" downpipe i was working on at the shop the other day.

[STR8E180]

i cant be bothered uploading all the pictures on the new workshop project car

so ill just copy and paste the link
POWERTUNE RX7 - Hardtuned.net

[Bubba]

Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz

In the shop today...

I still need to pick up a F/R STB set for my S13. Looks to be, by far, my best option for proper bracing.

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by Bubba

I still need to pick up a F/R STB set for my S13. Looks to be, by far, my best option for proper bracing.

Thank you! Let me know and I will put together a set for you.

[sr20sean]

Originally Posted by like_em_sidewayzz

i know this is such a stupid/noob question but what piping do you guys use for manifolds ? like the wall thickness and the inside on the pipe ? and why. and do you guys use stainless steel or mild steel ? thanks to who ever answers.

Some people use Sch 40 304L but there's the debate about stainless having no real "use" as an exhaust manifold after several heat cycles because it will lose its properties as a stainless manifold and basically rust like regular steel. Stainless is generally more for that look. Others use 316L same thickness.

Sch 40 mild steel will work. Have it ceramic coated and it will last a while.

Originally Posted by trickey1991

Sched10 I believe.

dunno the thickness

Schedule 10 is a thickness not a material.


come on guys how could you have let this one slip past?

[atutt]

Originally Posted by sr20sean

Some people use Sch 40 304L but there's the debate about stainless having no real "use" as an exhaust manifold after several heat cycles because it will lose its properties as a stainless manifold and basically rust like regular steel. Stainless is generally more for that look. Others use 316L same thickness.

Sch 40 mild steel will work. Have it ceramic coated and it will last a while.




Schedule 10 is a thickness not a material.


come on guys how could you have let this one slip past?

It's not really a debate. It's facts. If you look up the technical data for 304l stainless, you'll see it really has no business in being the manifold part of the exhaust.

One reason why people use stainless weld els is because more often they are cheaper. At least they are for me. SS weld els are about half the price of their mild steel counterpart.

Another reason is simply that it looks all nice and purrrrrdy after it's been welded up and hasn't been run through those heat cycles.... Then it doesn't look much better than mild.

If manifolds are to be made out of any stainless it should be 321. But most of us certainly can't afford to dish out that kind of money.

[sr20sean]

Originally Posted by atutt

It's not really a debate. It's facts. If you look up the technical data for 304l stainless, you'll see it really has no business in being the manifold part of the exhaust.

One reason why people use stainless weld els is because more often they are cheaper. At least they are for me. SS weld els are about half the price of their mild steel counterpart.

Another reason is simply that it looks all nice and purrrrrdy after it's been welded up and hasn't been run through those heat cycles.... Then it doesn't look much better than mild.

If manifolds are to be made out of any stainless it should be 321. But most of us certainly can't afford to dish out that kind of money.

hahaha it was 4 am I was at least able to get my general idea out. I was going to edit it when I woke up just to make sure I didn't fuck up what I was tying to say. I thought I typed 321 but apparently it was 316. Thank you for that correction though. I probably wouldnt have caught that.

Just checked the prices on acestainless. Sch40 304 is $6.75 for a weld el but a sch40 mild is $7.75. Looks like the prices dropped a bit for mild.

[atutt]

Originally Posted by sr20sean

hahaha it was 4 am I was at least able to get my general idea out. I was going to edit it when I woke up just to make sure I didn't fuck up what I was tying to say. I thought I typed 321 but apparently it was 316. Thank you for that correction though. I probably wouldnt have caught that.

Just checked the prices on acestainless. Sch40 304 is $6.75 for a weld el but a sch40 mild is $7.75. Looks like the prices dropped a bit for mild.

Where I live I pay about $4-$6 for a 304l weld el....... And about $10-$12 for a mild steel weld el...

I USED to be able to get my 304l weld els for about $3 a piece when I was doing sanitary work... But I hate welding now... Sort of.

[godrifttoday]

I picked up a bolt on cage, after reading with good/ bad reviews about the floor plates punching trough. I actually welded a plate on the car just as if I was building a roll cage. I also used the 1/8 plates underneath the car. I know most don't do this but I did it just in case!

[Steinkrunk]

Man do I wish I could get a job in automotive fab. All the stuff you guys get to make looks like fun stuff.

Some of my stuff

Mild steel iirc 11 ga to 20 ga



Solid stainless prop shaft, first time welding any stainless thicker than 1/16"


And now I'm laid off so hopefully I can find that dream job I've always been looking for

[atutt]

I'd never work for another auto-fab shop again....

...Unless they paid me $30+/hr
Which isn;t happening lol

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

I picked up a bolt on cage, after reading with good/ bad reviews about the floor plates punching trough. I actually welded a plate on the car just as if I was building a roll cage. I also used the 1/8 plates underneath the car. I know most don't do this but I did it just in case!

I like that you took the time to do this. Now you should weld another plate to the floor plate that connects to the sill. Always better to connect in more than one plane. Nice job!

Originally Posted by atutt

I'd never work for another auto-fab shop again....

...Unless they paid me $30+/hr
Which isn;t happening lol

Unless you own it.

[shiftdrift]

Originally Posted by atutt

I'd never work for another auto-fab shop again....

...Unless they paid me $30+/hr
Which isn;t happening lol

this is my problem, my current job i fabricate, wrench, body work AND paint cars haha. it's really nice because i get to switch it up but my gf wants to move to florida in a couple years and idk how i feel about it, hell mazworx was only offering 12 dollars a fucking hour for a fabricator position, that's certainly not enough for around here, let alone florida.

[brainfood]

^ yeah you may want an auto fab job until you actually realize what they get payed. Even good ones.

[shiftdrift]

I have an auto Fab job now and get paid pretty good but it's hard finding another place like this. I also do sidework so that helps