2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[Reddrum13]

Thanks. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

[Drink&Drift]

Does anyone know if the R154 has a factory Gear Position Sensor? or does it just have a Neutral Safety?

Going to be putting in an AIM MXL Dash and would like to get the gear position indicator working

[stevecorrado88]

So I got my car running but it looks like someone messed with the pulley system one spring is missing and it doesn't gabd enough straight to pull it closed. So does anyone have a good close up picture of that or doesn't anyone have a non vvti tb for sale. Only thing holding me up.

[AS240]

Originally Posted by ATLspeed

Anyone using a strut bar (preferably Jonnie Fraz) and/or front Tension/Power Brace? Trying to get an idea of clearance before I commit to purchase. Looking to stiffen up the chassis a bit to keep my dome light from coming on (I have a vert)...and for performance lol

I"m also curious about his tension brace + sikky compatibility. I was going to get his strut bar too but I was able to get Resto411 to make me one of his.

[ATLspeed]

^^^ omg I would love to have that. Seen one he made and didn't think he would make another. Def better to have.

[Reddrum13]

I really like the placement of the radiator in the photo above. I'm really trying to get a/c with the swap. I'm wondering if there would be clearance for the condensor behind the radiator as well as room for the intercooler. Anyone know? Is anyone rocking a/c?

[rswails]

Originally Posted by Reddrum13

Is anyone rocking a/c?

A select few have done it but I haven't seen any info about it. I wish there was more. I plan on having a/c eventually. You will prolly have to hack up the front of the car some around the radiator support area to get it all to fit. The wiring will take some tinkering as well.

This guy had working A/C on his swap though not working very well.

http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sal...wap-fs-ft.html

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

If your using aem v2 you don't need a Dakota digital box for the tach. You do with the v1 unit though. Just hook the factory tach up normally thru the dash dash plug and change a calibration setting in the aem. I will hook up to the aem later today and show where you adjust it at. I'm running a v2 with no Dakota digital and my tach works perfect

Please do share this info! Thanks!

[Reddrum13]

I'd be interested to know as well. I have a friend with a Dakota digital for speedo correction and no tach adjustment who wants to sell it to me cheap.

[sterlinge]

I hate to be a newb but il always be a newb if I never ask..haha

What is everyone doing for the vehicle speed sensor when going from an auto non-vvti to r154 swap? I have a marlin crawler mechanical to electric sensor but not wired up. I'm curious if it's the correct signal for the ecu.? Then if it is how does that effect wheels spin/drifting? I have had no real problems with my swap up until now. It runs lean in boost like the afrs do not even attempt to go rich.
Map sensor is working properly and I have more than enough fuel pressure.
Only diagnostic code i have is a 42

[HypnoFish]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

Yes Sir - when the laptop is plugged in everything is working properly.

You should be able to use the factory tach wire and wire it to an output on the aem.

I had to do this on my sc300 when i switched from stock coils to 1zz coils for the 1j.

I had to add a pull up resistor in the circuit as well but my tach is working normally now!

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by sterlinge

I hate to be a newb but il always be a newb if I never ask..haha

What is everyone doing for the vehicle speed sensor when going from an auto non-vvti to r154 swap? I have a marlin crawler mechanical to electric sensor but not wired up. I'm curious if it's the correct signal for the ecu.?

There is a write up on wiring it in. Just search JZ r154 speed sensor. Its made by LandinS13 (I believe that's his username)

[91ka24]

I'm selling a brand new tweakd 2jzgte vvti into s13 harness if anyone is interested. $800 shipped anywhere in the u.s. Has wiring for Dakota digital as well.

[Reddrum13]

Has anyone weighed their 2jz s14? Having a discussion with friends about how much the car should weigh all said and done. Full interior.

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by Reddrum13

I really like the placement of the radiator in the photo above. I'm really trying to get a/c with the swap. I'm wondering if there would be clearance for the condensor behind the radiator as well as room for the intercooler. Anyone know? Is anyone rocking a/c?

I am running AC in that exact setup style posted above minus the clutch fan. Instead I am running Altima puller fans. It's a tight fit but I have my front mount, AC condenser, radiator, then Altima fans. AC works great, I actually drove it down to Dallas Texas this past weekend with the wifey on a more than 6 hour road trip and it performed like a champ.

As far as wiring its a cake walk. Just one wire in the engine bay for the compressor, then one additional wire under the dash. My two biggest hurdles with this setup really was the ducting in the front so that the air actually penetrates to the radiator. And finding a place to make me custom AC lines to fit it all up. (Stock lines on passenger side, but custom for the high and low into/out of the compressor)

[Reddrum13]

Does it ever overheat at idle with the A/c on?

[Sky80]

Nope, it's actually harder to keep it cool at higher highway speeds. That's where ducting really plays a huge part.

Driving around town/sitting idle my coolant temp is in the 160s lol

[Reddrum13]

Nice! Would you mind if I PM'd you for pics/more info? I want to run A/C on mine when I'm finished, but the lack of information doesn't make feel all warm and fuzzy about it haha.

[Sky80]

Sure hit me up, I'll also post some pics here for others to see as well

[Reddrum13]

Or that, too! I just want to know how you did it with maybe some pictures if you don't mind!

[rswails]

Originally Posted by Sky80

Just one wire in the engine bay for the compressor

While this will certainly work, it is not ideal, there is a triple pressure switch, there is hi/low fan circuit i think too, and there is a relay that ideally turns an additionally fan on only when AC is running. But yes it will work with just the compressor on signal sent to the 2jz compressor.

I'd love to see your setup to Sky80. So your pullers are on the condenser correct?

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by rswails

While this will certainly work, it is not ideal, there is a triple pressure switch, there is hi/low fan circuit i think too, and there is a relay that ideally turns an additionally fan on only when AC is running. But yes it will work with just the compressor on signal sent to the 2jz compressor.



I'd love to see your setup to Sky80. So your pullers are on the condenser correct?

The one wire in the engine bay is the only way to do it, all 240s have the AC system controlled thru the body, making it a separate system. The on and off trigger for the compressor is on the driver frame rail not part of the engine harness like it is on the 2jz. On the stock KA when the AC button is pushed the only signal that is sent to the ECU is a ground so that it will idle up. The triple pressure switch, fan relays and everything is still intact just like it would be OEM.

I'll post pics in a minute, I think your confused/over thinking this rswails

[Sky80]

Pic of compressor trigger wire in engine bay, 240 blue/red stripe hooks to the 2jz black on the triangular connector. (Ignore the blue/white wire in my picture that is a wire I spliced in)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412135089.222922.jpg

Pic of my custom hi and low lines

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412135183.466813.jpg

[Sky80]

FMIC > AC condenser > radiator > Altima fans

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412135261.890984.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412135308.808528.jpg

[Sky80]

Pic of the triple pressure switch and drier, you actually don't have to touch anything over here other than bending the lines to reach the condenser that is now a little farther forward

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412135418.288611.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412135436.056209.jpg

I did have to cut these slots on both side of the radiator support for wiring harness and AC lines to come thru but that's it

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412135530.529862.jpg

[Sky80]

Here is the interior wiring:

On the f3 connector (big white plug under the dash in the passenger foot well) you need to splice together pin 16 yellow/ black to pin 43 black/pink. Push the a/c button a/c turns on, push it again it turns off. Obviously make sure your system is charged and the car is on before testing.

Thats everything, let me know if you guys want more pics/questions

[Cronus577]

How did everybody do their fuel lines / fuel pump? Shooting for the 650hp range, I dont think a 455lph single pump will do it

[Reddrum13]

I've seen a lot of people do a 255lph in-tank pump along with a second in-line.

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by Cronus577

How did everybody do their fuel lines / fuel pump? Shooting for the 650hp range, I dont think a 455lph single pump will do it

A single walbro 400 will easily handle 650 on pump gas or E. If your looking at just pump gas 650 then a single walbro 255 would be fine.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412212099.999310.jpg

[AS240]

Originally Posted by Cronus577

How did everybody do their fuel lines / fuel pump? Shooting for the 650hp range, I dont think a 455lph single pump will do it

In tank bosch 044 to dual -8 at the rail.
Gates barricade 3/8" fuel injection hose back to the pump.