This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[My$800S14]

Are you sure they are forged? Sorry to doubt your word, I just thought I had read that they were cast

Missile Media™2011

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by My$800S14

What method of welding are you guys using on these cast knuckles? I was thinking preheat the metal to 500* and then nickel stick weld? But a friend was saying he was mig welding them with great success preheating with a torch then, using a deep bevel, and then a root pass and a couple cover passes I would think that a mig weld wouldn't be stron enough, and that he would need some heat passes before the cover passes, and that a torch might cause to rapid of a heat application, and an uneven aplication of heat, what are the thoughts from yo guys that have been modding knuckles?

Missile Media™2011

Our front knuckles aren't cast, they're forged. Much easier to weld. Though I would recommend a good amount of heat, either with the torch method, or just turning your welder up and making a couple passes. No need for it to be glowing cherry before you weld though.

[My$800S14]

Awesome awesome awesome thanks guys, so torch is,and High heat low speed mig is adequite? me and a friend are going to be working on a JIG for some knucks, he has the fab knowledge, and I have spent hours perusing the shit out of this and some other suspension dynamic pages, so hopefully we can make an acceptable product, and he will be selling them at a pretty damn reasonable price, after I test the product, and abuse them of corse, I will be looking forward to the coming months, you guys can expect to se more activity from me in this thread

Missile Media™2011

[danee]

From this weekend at Tierp Arena!
Feels great !





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV7IsXkWDgI
Some incar before they modified the track!

Dw geomasters2
-4 camber
10 caster
20mm spacers
18x10 with 235 40

[swiftmini]

i made myself a jig and started to made a front crossmember





i did mods to raise the frame before moving the rack forward














35mm raised crossmember and 45mm drop knuckle


tension rod brackets have also been modded, but i think iam gonna remove them again and put a middle hole in for adjustment


carried on welding it up and trying to make it look tidy


This section was originally 2 skins so i repaired it with 2 skins, just too make sure its nice and strong




then moved the rack forward 20mm. iam doing it in a very rushed fashion, this is a test frame for research. once i have tested this one ill make a tidy one












ill finish it and paint it tomorrow, but iam happy with it so far

[TTnickdizzle]

^^^That is Sick! Im trying to make a jig for the rear subframe right now and you just gave me a few ideas...

[swiftmini]

Thanks matey

I personally think making decent jig is hardest part too most jobs. I usually avoid it. this jig has saved me so much time and I know its right first go.

Next. iam making a jig for my driftworks knuckles so I can cut standard knuckles and rewekd them in the jig

[Motary]

Very nice jig! Welds could use a little more amps tho
Roll center back on the ground?

[swiftmini]

Yeh man tell me about, my welding sucks lol. I think its mainly bad earth and dirty metal

I havent worked out roll centres just yet. But inner and outer joint on the lcas are both 100mm from ground level. It should be about ground level or higher. I'm certain it isnt underground now lol.

I might do a rough calculation on auto cad

[TheRealSy90]

Only thing that would suck about raising the front subframe is all the intercooler piping and the downpipe would need to be modified. Not to mention the clearance in the transmission tunnel

[swiftmini]

You just use shorter engine mounts so that the engine is in same place. Intercooler pipes on my car has silicone couplers so will move fine. Down pipe can be fixed easily with a spacer between the flangrs or hammer the floor out of the way. Transmission is big enough for rb25 engine and gearbox on my s13 and my r32

[jaysgottaredtop]

Originally Posted by swiftmini

I think its mainly bad earth

you silly englishmen and your funny terminology. took me a minute to figure out wtf you were saying, haha.

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Only thing that would suck about raising the front subframe is all the intercooler piping and the downpipe would need to be modified. Not to mention the clearance in the transmission tunnel

if it's not raised too much, hopefully the trans will still clear? no chance of getting to the bellhousing bolts once it's installed though. and again, if it's not raised too much, the DP might just tuck itself nicely up to the chassis? still a valid concern though. there's gonna be some weird clearances to deal with.

EDIT: swiftmini, you slipped your post in just before mine, haha. the clearance issues make more sense now, bravo.

[swiftmini]

Haha my English, is as bad as my welding! Pmsl

[swiftmini]

last night i didnt get much done because i had other things to attend to.

However i did get the crossmember test fitted to the engine with standard mounts, so i could check clearances.

There is enough room for a ginsters pasty between the sump and the rack










So i will lower the engine at least 1 inch on solid mounts. the standard mount should be 70mm tall, so ill knock up some 45mm tall mounts

[swiftmini]

This is a long shot but does anyone know what pages, the discussion on shortened rear lcas, is on?? Or any other threads regarding doing this. ive read stuff about it altering the camber curve but cannot find it now

[TheRealSy90]

I understand now, i'm used to making cars as low as possible so I was thinking the raised subframe was going to be for getting the oil pan higher off of the ground.

[swiftmini]

i raised the engine 10mm on my mx5 so that i stopped smashing the oil pan. It raises it just higher enough that its above the subframe and ive driven like it for 6 weeks with no problems. Apart from no i dont care if i scrape and i have nearly ground the rack bolts off lol





EDIT: and my micra has a raised high power twin cam engine that is solid mounted. i have also kinda removed the suspension and its solid like a go kart. It has about 5mm off bump travel

[GSpot_s14]

where i can i get the parts for roll center correction? for the rear roll center correction theres subframe risers would that be all i need or would i have to do more?

[kristinachelsea]

Originally Posted by GSpot_s14

where i can i get the parts for roll center correction? for the rear roll center correction theres subframe risers would that be all i need or would i have to do more?

Here you go.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/296725...on-thread.html

[Matej]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Only thing that would suck about raising the front subframe is all the intercooler piping and the downpipe would need to be modified. Not to mention the clearance in the transmission tunnel

On my S13 I am using stock 350Z motor mounts which are about 3cm taller than the S13 ones. I mocked the engine up and everything still seems to fit.
I have taller mounts just so I do not kill my oil pan again, but raising the whole subframe instead would be doubly beneficial. If anyone starts providing the service (hint hint, COR ), that sure would be swell.

This thread convinced me to put power steering back in my car, so I can get my suspension chopped up for snap entries into Trader Joe's parking lot.

[My$800S14]

Soo its no big deal but I got these done tonight, I didn't box in the top, because eventually I'm going to be notching it for the tierod, S14 lca's extended 1" for my S13, hopefully tension rod clearance will be a non-issue, hoping to get started on knucks soon

Missile Media™2011

[swiftmini]

[IMG]
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/488104_10151161014377577_364522436_n.jpg[/IMG]

[Motary]

Kevin how many cars do you have

[swiftmini]

Too many lol

[Hashiriya415]

With modified knuckles that drop the tie rod down about 1in. It's ok to raise the lower arm 1in on cross-member via drilling another hole? To me this would make both tie rod and lower arm parallel with each other. Is there any issues with that?

[jaysgottaredtop]

^ i've been wondering the same thing. the LCA and tie rod would still be "parallel" but would there be any steering/suspension travel dynamics that would be adversely affected from the LCA being "out of plane" (so to speak) with the tie rod?

[Croustibat]

I think there will ... They dont have the same length, so they will have different travel

[swiftmini]

Loads of room too get to bell housing bolts




steering rack boot is a little close to the frame and mounting bolt, ill need to trim them back

[TheRealSy90]

It's not as much the bellhousing bolts, as it is trying to get the input shaft out of the crank while the trans is touching the tunnel lol. Looks great though.

[Motary]

Have you measured your bumpsteer after these mods?