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Old 06-30-2012, 07:47 PM   #4321
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installed my parts shop max rear knuckles today. took a couple before and after shots. thoughts?





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Old 07-01-2012, 12:41 AM   #4322
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Nice before and after shots. Lookin good. Do you have their fronts as well?

I saw PBM just ran out of the rear knuckles... wonder if they'll make any revisions on the next batch.

Here's one comparing PBM with the Driftworks... you can see everything is a bit lower on the DW knucks
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:05 AM   #4323
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ya i had the max weld on kit for a few years and this year switched to the PRO knuckle. feels so smooth with the RC correction. excited to see what kind of difference these rear will make
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:20 AM   #4324
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why doesnt pbm make the rears lower like the dw ones???
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:31 AM   #4325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GripTerror View Post
why doesnt pbm make the rears lower like the dw ones???
IIRC, the theory is that if you use PBM's entire line of RC correction stuff you get about the same amount of correction as DW. I think the Subframe Risers are good for 15-20mm, the LCA's good for another 5mm and then the drop knuckle is 25mm. Added together, you're in the 45-50mm correction range which is the DW setup.

Which, looking at the DW setup, it seems like the arms are in the same position relative to the wheel as PBM.... Did they just move everything up 25mm and then drop the LCA mount? Seems like they cheated a bit....
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:34 AM   #4326
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I like the fact that you can use the z32/q45 ebrake with the DW knuckles, not to mention if you pair the DW knuckles with only the PBM risers it should be awesome.

I however don't like how the DW fronts you have to use s14 wheel bearings, I dont want to ditch my j30/s13 bearings.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:35 PM   #4327
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just got done doing this.





mcmastercarr i think all the parts came from.. just the heim and then a threaded tube end.. measure cut and weld.. presto
Any part numbers? Does anyone know where parts shop max gets their bearings? I would like to do something like this to my lcas.
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:07 PM   #4328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GripTerror View Post
why doesnt pbm make the rears lower like the dw ones???
Dunno but the DW knuckles were a bitch to fit in the rear because the arms are so close to the axles. The swept Cusco RUCAs I had hit the axles pretty bad if at a decent ride height. I tried the Isis RUCAs which are a flat design and it was better but still not what I wanted. The traction rod bracket can also hit the axles and it's hard to find coils that will work since you need to raise the car 2" and most coilovers won't go that high in the rear.

The PBM knuckles have more clearance there so it isn't much of an issue and you can use pretty much any coilover with them since it's only 1".

Also everyone says the z32 E-brake sucks with DW knuckles since you need to flip the assemblies and the Z32 rear brake setup is pretty heavy (you gain about 6lbs with just the rotors/calipers)

PBM will likely have the same weak e-brake issue if they allow Z32 E-brakes with their rear knuckles since the only way to get them to work on a drop knuckle is to flip the assemblies.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:39 PM   #4329
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Yeah most people don't need as much rear correction as the DW provide, especially if they're using subframe risers. PSM's have spherical bearings, which in my opinion outweighs the added drop of the DW's anyway. Also, they're cheaper.

PSM makes all their own bearings btw.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:55 PM   #4330
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How much adjustment do those modded oem arms even give you? Especially since the tension rod is bolted outward of the adjustment, it's not gonna move very far.
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:15 AM   #4331
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So Driftworks rear knuckles do provide what they say 45mm change compared to stock.
Time to make some for my own car then, thanks a lot for the comparison picture az_240
Useful info for everyone when choosing which to buy
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:44 AM   #4332
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So i'm thinking about getting my flca's extended 1.5" and my knuckles modded. A friend of mine that builds longtravel kits for prerunners said he can do the arms and knuckles no problem. The arms are easy to do, but I don't know exactly what to tell him to do when he starts on the knuckles? Should I start out by just getting rid of the ackerman and the length of the tie rod mount at first and see how I like it?

edit- My steering rack is already moved 50mm forward and I have pbm rod spacers and a spacer on the passenger side of the rack like George sells.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:23 AM   #4333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motary View Post
So Driftworks rear knuckles do provide what they say 45mm change compared to stock.
Time to make some for my own car then, thanks a lot for the comparison picture az_240
Useful info for everyone when choosing which to buy



Looks around 45mm.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:11 PM   #4334
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so why doesnt pbm do the same as driftworks for the rear?...
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:22 PM   #4335
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^did you read the post's after the first before and after pic post?
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:43 AM   #4336
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Quote:
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edit- My steering rack is already moved 50mm forward and I have pbm rod spacers and a spacer on the passenger side of the rack like George sells.
50mm? Really? Got any pics? Mine is ~28-30mm forward and I can't imagine how anyone could get another 20mm.
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:40 PM   #4337
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He has it on the other side of the rack lol
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:45 PM   #4338
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Haha oops its 30mm.
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:08 AM   #4339
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So now wisefab has a kit for supra including rear knuckle and wishbones:

Wisefab introduction of Supra/Soarer kit by Fredric Aasbo on Vimeo

With aasbo commentating and driving, looks neat
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:46 AM   #4340
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Quote:
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So now wisefab has a kit for supra including rear knuckle and wishbones:

Wisefab introduction of Supra/Soarer kit by Fredric Aasbo on Vimeo

With aasbo commentating and driving, looks neat
Not going to lie, Aasbo laid down some sick lines with those.

But again, a wisefab car without front fenders?

Is there a reason for it? Or are they incapable of engineering a kit that allows for use of a fender? Why not just cut the front fenders where the wheel hits? I don't get it....
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:56 AM   #4341
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All these cars have the wisefab kit installed. The cars in testing dont have fenders because they probably needed adjusting later after geometry was set.
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:23 PM   #4342
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pic from this past weekend at East Coast Bash


those are 18x9 22j wheels 235/40-18 tires, stock inner and outer tie rods
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:03 PM   #4343
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I've been reading thorugh this thread for weeks, we've done a few modifications to the car:
-Cut and dropped arm on the knuckle
-S14 FLCA
- Ikeya Formula Tie rods

That's about it so far, i still rub the frame rail under full lock so we put bump stops in to make sure i dont get there.

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Old 07-06-2012, 03:52 AM   #4344
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seeing as peeps are posting pics of themselves here is me in my missile on fire



Bonus pic
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Old 07-06-2012, 06:35 AM   #4345
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Can anyone post pics of s13 with s14 lower control arm, i hear they are about an inch longer, but I have poke with stock arms already, now imagine if I had wisefab +60mm control arms
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Old 07-06-2012, 10:38 AM   #4346
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Mine has an S14 FLCA... i just posted a picture of it.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:19 PM   #4347
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A picture of your front wheel to body clearance when the wheel is straight is what I am looking for
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:05 PM   #4348
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Quote:
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Can anyone post pics of s13 with s14 lower control arm, i hear they are about an inch longer, but I have poke with stock arms already, now imagine if I had wisefab +60mm control arms
S14 front lower arms are exactly 8mm longer than S13 ones. Rear ... they are not the same.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:59 PM   #4349
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A picture of your front wheel to body clearance when the wheel is straight is what I am looking for
kinda dark but here you go. 4.7 degree camber 17x9.5 (225/45/17) effective +3mm offset


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S14 front lower arms are exactly 8mm longer than S13 ones. Rear ... they are not the same.
12mm...we measured
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:29 PM   #4350
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s14 arms are 7mm (3/8 inches)longer
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