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Old 01-24-2011, 06:51 PM   #4201
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Quote:
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I will never use those plates again. Such a PITA to bend up around the nut. I would use the copper nuts before I buy another set of those.
A screwdriver and hammer are hard? How did you try to put them on.

I mean it's no diss to you as you're one of the few other capable members on here (LOL sad that our list is so little) but I just bend them up and hammer them on. NEVER an issue, and I've put these on countless cars.

Stage 8 obviously work too (what we use on 5.0/5.8 cars) but I just can't swallow that cost when a 4 dollar plate works just as well.
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:50 PM   #4202
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You want something thick enough to absorb some impact, and not immediatly bend up into the pan as it is.

To me a stop sign, or diamond plate, are really the only true decent materials to use for a skidplate.
Yeah, I think I might get the same metal as a stop sign is made out of, and shaping/trimming it to fit nicely.
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Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
.190" thick aluminum skid plate:


Panzer Skid Plates by www.dieselgeek.com
Exactly, what I was thinking of making. I guess I'll just buy a sheet of thicker aluminum or something, and make a DIY thread or whatever.


Thanks fellas.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:33 PM   #4203
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Originally Posted by codyace View Post
A screwdriver and hammer are hard? How did you try to put them on.

I mean it's no diss to you as you're one of the few other capable members on here (LOL sad that our list is so little) but I just bend them up and hammer them on. NEVER an issue, and I've put these on countless cars.

Stage 8 obviously work too (what we use on 5.0/5.8 cars) but I just can't swallow that cost when a 4 dollar plate works just as well.
It was on the car. The ones on the block side are a pita.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:49 PM   #4204
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It was on the car. The ones on the block side are a pita.
I can honestly admit I've never done a turbo 'on car'...I've always yanked the manifold and done it on bench. I know I know, rookie.
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:02 PM   #4205
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can anyone tell if i have abs?
stupid question, but i dont really want it,
have a non abs subframe &all arms sitting in my garage
can easily get a non abs mc if need be.

thing is
i got an sr20
and dont see all the shit by the wiper motor.
i bought the car this way.

no abs light comes on on the dash when driving
havent checked during startup. bulbs there tho
sooooo

can i get rid of the big ass metal box behind the inside backseat left panel
?


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Old 01-24-2011, 09:03 PM   #4206
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you

DO NOT

have ABS

But you should reciruclate the BOV, and ditch that MR FPR
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:14 PM   #4207
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I wanna get a new shift knob on eBay they said it's 10 x 1.25 I know 240sx is 12 x 1.25 it should still fit right?
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:32 PM   #4208
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so i can get rid of this box? and get a legit seatbelt conversion?

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Old 01-25-2011, 08:30 AM   #4209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift_86 View Post
I wanna get a new shift knob on eBay they said it's 10 x 1.25 I know 240sx is 12 x 1.25 it should still fit right?
Alright, first, yes it will work, and second m10x1.25 is stock 240 thread pitch...


Now that you ask
I can't remember if all my knob collection is M10x1.25 or M12x1.25
they are all honda compatible knobs...hrrm

Last edited by RedSiBaron; 01-25-2011 at 08:37 AM.. Reason: did a 1min search found the answer for this guy
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:30 AM   #4210
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m10x1.25 is not interchangeable with m12x1.25. The first number is the diameter, 10mm versus 12mm.

That said, according to Aspec Products, Nissan uses an m10x1.25 thread pitch on the shift knob:

A SPEC PRODUCTS
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:52 PM   #4211
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its proper sells adapters for $2.xx if you want it

use red thread locker to keep it in the shift knob, and blue to keep it on the shifter
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:39 PM   #4212
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Made thread instead

Last edited by RedSiBaron; 01-26-2011 at 09:26 AM..
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:31 PM   #4213
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quick question

bought a fg hood from chaser, and the 2 "layers" are kinda coming apart, it looks like theres some "glue" like stuff thats supposed to hold the 2 layers together, anyone know what i should use??

i was going to use fg, but the stuff thats on there right now seems gooey, like silicone, but its not,

any help is appreciated,

thanks

any info???
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:48 PM   #4214
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transmission rubber boot cover, the one that covers the shifter and is directly ziptied to the transmission. How the hell do i get a new one to fit over the stock shifter, the hole is like 2cm in diameter, but the shifter is like 6 cm in diameter (guess) and i don't wanna rip it

this: Genuine OEM Nissan Transmission Rubber Boot Cover KA24DE SR20DET
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:55 PM   #4215
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any info???
that almost sounds like the resin which is what gives fiberglass its stiff/strong/flexible structure, wasnt fully mixed... the resin is a 2 part composite...if something got messed up in the fabrication process (i assume it was vacuum bagged), that section may not have had enough hardener in the resin, which would have caused it not to harden in that section...thats what it sounds like...

i dont know their fabrication process...they may have had a top shell and a bottom structure that they then fused together with resin and that may not have cured...in any case, it sounds like some resin didnt cure is what im getting at...

id try going and getting some fiberglass 2 part resin and mixing it up, applying it to the areas (after you clean it off with mineral spirits and do a light scuff sanding between the mating surfaces) and then clamp it with the resin in there and wait for it to harden...


THEN AGAIN, they may have 2 separate fiberglass parts, then they may have just epoxy resined them together, which would be more rubbery, but less brittle and more flexible with more material memory than fiberglass resin... same problem applies though, maybe not enough hardener...

solve it by doing same thing, clean it with mineral spirits, light scuff sanding to promote adhesion, and get a flexible 2 part epoxy to mix up, apply and clamp
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:00 PM   #4216
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Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
transmission rubber boot cover, the one that covers the shifter and is directly ziptied to the transmission. How the hell do i get a new one to fit over the stock shifter, the hole is like 2cm in diameter, but the shifter is like 6 cm in diameter (guess) and i don't wanna rip it

this: Genuine OEM Nissan Transmission Rubber Boot Cover KA24DE SR20DET
hmm, well id guess you stretch it out, or you put the boot on from the bottom of the shifter (already pulled out of the trans, pull it up, put the shifter back in, push boot down)...but honestly i dont know for sure...interested in this as well
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:00 PM   #4217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
transmission rubber boot cover, the one that covers the shifter and is directly ziptied to the transmission. How the hell do i get a new one to fit over the stock shifter, the hole is like 2cm in diameter, but the shifter is like 6 cm in diameter (guess) and i don't wanna rip it

this: Genuine OEM Nissan Transmission Rubber Boot Cover KA24DE SR20DET
I have that problem all the time. Just lube it up and push...

Works good on coolant hoses too.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:01 PM   #4218
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I have that problem all the time. Just lube it up and push...

Works good on coolant hoses too.
ya i have that problem with women too...
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:00 AM   #4219
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ya i have that problem with women too...
You probably shouldn't admit that.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:25 AM   #4220
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You probably shouldn't admit that.
Really? You didn't get that?
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:13 AM   #4221
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But if you have to lube it up your doing it wrong :P
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:18 PM   #4222
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I know this is a silvia corner socket (3 tab) but does anybody recognize it from any other nissan/infiniti model? I know it has to be on something like a G20 or some shit.
or if anyone has that part number that would rock also. Thanks

anyone? anyone? bueller? bueller?

seriously doesn anyone recognize this thing from another model? I need one!
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:55 PM   #4223
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I am trying to wire my A/F gauge into my rb25. Which pinout is it on the rb25 S2?
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:45 PM   #4224
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Ok, how do i know if i have a lsd or vlsd on my car?Because im concerned about putting the wrong diff oil when i change it. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:48 PM   #4225
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so after i drove my car in the rain the lights wouldnt turn off.. the wiring in the blinker switch that controls the lights, blinker, and brights looked rusted and ugly so i replaced it. now only my right head light turns on when i turn my lights on, so i replaced the left light thinking it had burnt out. it still wont turn on, anyone have any idea of what could be causing this? i checked the fuse and everything.

please respond. thank you!
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:48 PM   #4226
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should have a orange vlsd sticker on it, if not you can always crack it open. Not really much way to tell from the outside tho.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:01 PM   #4227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakeBHR View Post
anyone? anyone? bueller? bueller?

seriously doesn anyone recognize this thing from another model? I need one!
I can't say I've ever seen a plug like that on any FWD car either. I had to say to ghetto rig something, but it may hafta be the result...I've seen guys hot glue things on truck/trailer lighting and it works...certianly not right but it's sealed, and somewhat easily removable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smoked240 View Post
I am trying to wire my A/F gauge into my rb25. Which pinout is it on the rb25 S2?
Always check google first.
RB25 Series 2 ECU wiring

FWIW: If you're wiring a guage into your car, you're going to want to remember to take into the o2 input side, but to leave it connected to the ECU plug itself. If possible with your wideband, see if it has a narrowband output to connect into your ECU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse_s13 View Post
Ok, how do i know if i have a lsd or vlsd on my car?Because im concerned about putting the wrong diff oil when i change it. Thanks in advance.
YOu should use the same oil regardless (80/90 non synthetic), and then use a friction modifier. I prefer to use Spicer Friction Modifier, but Ford Friction Modifer is also good to use..any dealer should have it, roughly 6-10 bucks a bottle.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:03 PM   #4228
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thanks man
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:48 PM   #4229
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I have that problem all the time. Just lube it up and push...

Works good on coolant hoses too.
it shouldn't rip or anything? mine tore up when i took it off, the old one, but it was fairly old so that could be why
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:54 PM   #4230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post



Always check google first.
RB25 Series 2 ECU wiring

FWIW: If you're wiring a guage into your car, you're going to want to remember to take into the o2 input side, but to leave it connected to the ECU plug itself. If possible with your wideband, see if it has a narrowband output to connect into your ECU.
What the hell. I looked on google so damn long for that. Thanks a lot man!

Well right now I don't have a wideband a/f yet. Would I connect it into the air flow meter intake quantity signal. Or the o2 sensor?
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