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Old 04-20-2012, 09:55 PM   #3901
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Anyone make and sell a weld in bearing cup with a machined shank for the lca ball joint? I was going to put something together but if someone is already machining the parts no reason for me to go through the trouble.
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Old 04-21-2012, 01:16 AM   #3902
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First post should have the UB Machine solution.
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:57 AM   #3903
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Thanks exactly what I was looking for!
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:54 PM   #3904
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This is that tdp shizzle in action at the bdc

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Old 04-21-2012, 04:58 PM   #3905
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Wow... Time to mount radiators, intercoolers at an angle so they can get some cooling airflow while sideways...
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:30 PM   #3906
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I was just about to post that. So TDP front kit + Cor integration sway bar = winning?
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:37 PM   #3907
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The only problem with the TDP kit is they don't look like they planned on running sway bar. The sway bar might hit the front section of there tension rod area.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:07 PM   #3908
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Hmmm indeed it does... Although the stock stuff is really close together too, and with rca and sway bars your front end shouldn't move much hahah.

I guess wisefab is coming out with LCA's with a provision for sways.
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:31 AM   #3909
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TDP S-Body Suspension Kit

Hi I am Robbie for www.TDP.ie - Championship Winning Mapping the designer of the KIT. To answer the question on the front sway bar we have provision for running in and will test it soon. For drifting we dont see it as an advantage at all so far.

Thanks for all the positive comments and the suggestions. I know you are all shocked by the lover outer rod end in bending. But we have done test that prove the coil over will bend before the rod end get to 50% of its designed shear load. We feel that a captive rod end will limit the kits design and setup.

Note to admin. If you feel that me posting here is against trading rules please remover my post and accept my most sincerer apologies.

If you have question I will try and answer them during the week as we are just heading to BDC Day 2.

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Old 04-22-2012, 08:58 AM   #3910
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Hey robbie, your setup will it be modifable to be tuned for grip driving or will it always be a high angle drift only setup.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:10 AM   #3911
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I am new to the forum, but i read it from long time ... i registered to ask few questions in this thread ...

1. I sow wisefab kit ... i understand most of the differences from the oem knuckle, except one ... on the oem knuckle the pivot hole is inclined, but on the wisefab kit there is no inclination of that point ... the question is, why the oem is inclined, and what i lose when made straight ... as in wisefab kit?

2. Where can i buy front spindle? i see wisefab, driftworks and all other making front knuckles put new spindles, so they buy it from somewhere or make it ... if i have to make it, what material is it from ... i want to make some experiments making own knuckles, because all my car is custom, all suspension is made by us, i can shave the spindle off the oem knuckle, but i want to buy new if possible ...

3. For s14 rear subframe, do i need to make some changes( i mean the pickup points ) to improve the traction? like the s13 frame?
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:58 AM   #3912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lidlleecher View Post
I am new to the forum, but i read it from long time ... i registered to ask few questions in this thread ...

1. I sow wisefab kit ... i understand most of the differences from the oem knuckle, except one ... on the oem knuckle the pivot hole is inclined, but on the wisefab kit there is no inclination of that point ... the question is, why the oem is inclined, and what i lose when made straight ... as in wisefab kit?

2. Where can i buy front spindle? i see wisefab, driftworks and all other making front knuckles put new spindles, so they buy it from somewhere or make it ... if i have to make it, what material is it from ... i want to make some experiments making own knuckles, because all my car is custom, all suspension is made by us, i can shave the spindle off the oem knuckle, but i want to buy new if possible ...

3. For s14 rear subframe, do i need to make some changes( i mean the pickup points ) to improve the traction? like the s13 frame?
1. The oem ball joint is angled because that creates more positive ackerman in the steering system. This added ackerman is not required in drifting, and when designing a whole new knuckle/lca combo, you can simply leave it out like wisefab does.

2. I've never seen just the spindle for sale, I'm pretty positive that all the companies have them machined new. As far as material goes, I'm not sure what would be best.

3. No, S14 subframes already have the better geometry, no changes need to be made.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:09 AM   #3913
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thanks, i am happy i registered here, you answered all my questions in less than a day, thank you
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:39 PM   #3914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lidlleecher View Post

2. Where can i buy front spindle? i see wisefab, driftworks and all other making front knuckles put new spindles, so they buy it from somewhere or make it ... if i have to make it, what material is it from ... i want to make some experiments making own knuckles, because all my car is custom, all suspension is made by us, i can shave the spindle off the oem knuckle, but i want to buy new if possible ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post

2. I've never seen just the spindle for sale, I'm pretty positive that all the companies have them machined new. As far as material goes, I'm not sure what would be best.
The oem stock spindle threaded parts is a tricky detail to manufacture.

A better way to approach it would be to design a front knuckle to take a bolt on hub.

something like this:



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Old 04-24-2012, 03:25 PM   #3915
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there is some serious stuff in this thread. super cool to read and learn. so what is the consensus of what people are concerned with when buying a kit? I've heard the term roll center thrown around. I know what bump steer is from my background in offroad, and center of gravity is a given. anyone care to enlighten me?
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:00 PM   #3916
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Did a little more investigating. If you go to Megan Racing's website and read the description of each control arm for the S-chassis, at the bottom there are my exact descriptions, hahahahhaa! Each and every one. They even include my tip about extending the traction rod on an aggressively lowered car.
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:05 PM   #3917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SharkBite View Post
there is some serious stuff in this thread. super cool to read and learn. so what is the consensus of what people are concerned with when buying a kit? I've heard the term roll center thrown around. I know what bump steer is from my background in offroad, and center of gravity is a given. anyone care to enlighten me?
Read the first post sir, then ask from there.
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:12 PM   #3918
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here are some more images of the TDP steering kit on that s15...








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Old 04-24-2012, 05:00 PM   #3919
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Some good info on why you don't use a rod end in bending (like a ball joint replacement)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Def View Post
They don't even understand why you don't make a REIB design... *sigh*


The radial load rating of the rod end is when it's under TENSION. You put a pure bending load on the rod end and now your highest loaded part is the threaded shank. The threads make perfect stress risers for a crack to start, and the more the rod end is threaded out the higher the loading is. Think of it as a flagpole. It's really really strong pulling it straight out, but you can push the thing over far easier due to the bending moment.


This will probably work for someone that only drifts their car, as it doesn't load up front tires all that much, but I would not want to be braking into a high speed corner with some aero downforce and Hoosiers on those things...
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:29 PM   #3920
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Is it just me, or does it look like that brake line is rubbing at lock?
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:53 PM   #3921
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Some good info on why you don't use a rod end in bending (like a ball joint replacement)
I do engineering consultation for a small fee as well. PM me for details.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:20 AM   #3922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoxris View Post
This isn't a stupid question. I know as of now there bar is closer to stock fitment. It is made to be a little more forward than stock tho. It should clear 1 jz's but haven't installed one on a 1jz car.
LS1 as of now will need an oil pan but that should be done anyways.
Rb26 oil pan sticks out pretty far so probably will need to mod it as usual.
How about for the VH45 guys? The oil pan barely clears the stock sway, if this is just mm more frontward it should help.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:23 PM   #3923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManoNegra View Post
The oem stock spindle threaded parts is a tricky detail to manufacture.

A better way to approach it would be to design a front knuckle to take a bolt on hub.

something like this:



I was actually looking into doing that exact thing, but the only 2wd hubs I was finding were the GM hubs with the 5 x 4.75 bolt pattern and the larger center bore, which starts to limit wheel options.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:25 PM   #3924
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I think def mentioned some Nissan trucks?
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:42 PM   #3925
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I think def mentioned some Nissan trucks?
Grip, that got me searching again, it looks like 350z would be a good hub to use. Anyone have some front spindle geometry they wanna share? I can supply the hubs and the new tool we set-up at work last week.

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Old 04-25-2012, 04:18 PM   #3926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyblackS13 View Post
I was actually looking into doing that exact thing, but the only 2wd hubs I was finding were the GM hubs with the 5 x 4.75 bolt pattern and the larger center bore, which starts to limit wheel options.
If you have the means to manufacture the knuckle
modifying the hub to a 114.3 pattern should be easy
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:22 PM   #3927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyblackS13 View Post
Anyone have some front spindle geometry they wanna share?
You guys don't have basic measuring tools - ie micrometers, indicators, calipers, height gauges - in your shop?

We took measurement a while ago but no idea where they could be.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:23 PM   #3928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManoNegra View Post
If you have the means to manufacture the knuckle
modifying the hub to a 114.3 pattern should be easy
I do, but its usually more economical to buy something mass produced whenever and where ever possible.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:27 PM   #3929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManoNegra View Post
You guys don't have basic measuring tools - ie micrometers, indicators, calipers, height gauges - in your shop?

We took measurement a while ago but no idea where they could be.
And yes, I have access to all of the above, asking for dimensions was more of a joke because as nice as it would be, I really don't expect anyone to just give me that for free since it would be somewhat time consuming to collect the data then put it into cad, cam or something useable.
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:58 AM   #3930
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ford mustang seems to use 5x114.3 spindles and are RWD. Maybe you could use that ?
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