11-11-2011, 01:23 PM | #361 |
Zilvia Junkie
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k time for my question
i wanna run possibly a 16x10 i know ill have to hammer out my wheel wells just dont know what offset to run was thinkin like +24 ish or around there any input would be much appreciated Car specs 89 240sx hatch with pignose with zenki lip ride height will be adjusted to fit the rims accordingly dont mind to do a slight roll in pull just want it to look good and have some traction |
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11-11-2011, 08:50 PM | #364 |
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About to order new tires for my s2000...I know this is for s-chassis but I need tire advice.
I'm running 17x9.5 +28 all around. Currently running 245/40 nitto invo but they're too meaty. I want to run something smaller, preferably non directional, but still have a good performing tire. Debating between 215 or 225...I get a good deal on Continentals, but price isn't a huge deal. Cheaper would be good, that way I can buy something super meaty and sticky on my other wheels for track events. I like dz101's, nt05's kinda suck, invos aren't bad either but they didn't last long at all
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11-12-2011, 08:48 AM | #365 | ||
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The thread title needs to include "SEARCH BEFORE YOU ASK" or something. Some of these questions can be answered with a little search time and some common sense.
Like this question: Quote:
10" +24 will not fit the fronts. You will need spacers just to even get the wheels to mount. You will have a lot of poke, so overs or flares will be needed. Quote:
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11-12-2011, 09:23 AM | #366 | ||
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Quote:
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I'm running these new Generals for my rear and so far they're pretty good for All-Season tires. They're called G-Max AS03, its they're replacement for the UHPs and traction has been consistent and predictable. Only issue you'll have is finding the correct size. Star Specs Sizings from TireRack: 215/45ZR17 87W $143.00 (ea.) 225/45ZR17 90W $145.00 (ea.) 235/40ZR17 90W $160.00 (ea.) 235/45ZR17 93W $149.00 (ea.) 245/40ZR17 91W $175.00 (ea.) General G-Max: 215/45ZR17 91W $99.00 (ea.) 215/50ZR17 95W $115.00 (ea.) 215/55ZR17 94W $111.00 (ea.) 225/45ZR17 91W $109.00 (ea.) 225/50ZR17 94W $113.00 (ea.) 225/55ZR17 97W $118.00 (ea.) 235/45ZR17 94W $117.00 (ea.) 235/50ZR17 96W $113.00 (ea.) 235/55ZR17 99W $119.00 (ea.) 245/40ZR17 91W $125.00 (ea.) Actually, now that I'm looking at Tirerack, I've heard nothing but good things about Hankook RS-3 or the V12s as far as bang for the buck. |
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11-12-2011, 11:12 AM | #367 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I could run a 235/40 but the clearance will suck. I'm running a 17x9 +12 on the front with a 235/40 right now until I get the car out of paint, which, obviously, is when i'll be putting the other 2 17x9.5 +28 on. The 235/40 on the 9 +12 fits kinda awesome, but i can't lower the front as much as desired, and it rubs sometimes...I FUCKING HATE RUBBING. I'm thinking the 9.5 +28 will stretch the 235 more and I think a 9.5+28 would fit like 7mm more inward...
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11-12-2011, 12:40 PM | #368 |
Zilvia Junkie
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[QUOTE=fliprayzin240sx;4351481]If you decide to go 9j, +25 is about as high as offset you can go to clear most coilovers. If you go 10j, it gets iffy there since you have even less tolerance to clear the suspension, the wheel-well and the fenders, specially on the smaller amount of space under an S13. Personal recommendation would be about 9j +20 or +15 ish for S13 fronts.
thanks for the info i found a s13 with 16x10 -0 f -12 r on stock body but no clue how they did it so ill prob just find x9"s hopefully |
11-12-2011, 04:37 PM | #370 |
Nissanaholic!
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Thank you very much for your input guys....Zooopreme, 95KA-Turbo, Drftin, and David.
Ok messing with the Wheel calculator there seems to be quite a few variables that come into play here. I'm trying to learn, so bare with me. Trying to figure out what size front wheel I need to get and what modifications I need to do to fit 40mm fenders. Currently I have Tein HE coilovers (which seem to run wider than most, because I need to be at +12 offset to clear the coilovers). With SPL’s tension rods and Tein inner/outer rods w/ spacers. Now messing with the Wheel Calculator from my current set-up to the desired set-up looks like this…. Running 18x10 I would need -22 offset to push the wheel out 40mm to meet the fenders. And this is not accounting for camber. I will be running 225/35’s. Now….95KA & Drftin run 17x10 +7/+15 w/ 245/40 & 235/40 is actually taller than David running 18x9 -12 w/ 215/35. And even with my desired set-up, so there is some (probably very little) clearance with my set-up. I would like to be where my current set-up is at: -3.5 to -4* of camber 8* caster I understand now, with the 18x10 -22 and 8* of caster, that I will have to go with Tubs and hammer some places (that lip near the frame rail) in the rear well. Can someone confirm if my research and homework is going in the right direction? Anything else that I am not factoring in or didn't realize? |
11-13-2011, 12:09 PM | #371 |
Zilvia Member
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Taking a stab at fitment for cheap.. buying some 4x108 a.r.e 2 piece mesh 16x8 +10 wheels which are going to be redrilled to 4x114.3, question is, what body mods would I need to pull these off on my s14 if I were to reverse the faces? & after I reverse the face, what would the offset be? Don't kno too much about reversing faces.. I was thinking of just reversing the rears while I keep the fronts normal.. does anyone have any input on how I should execute this?
Why the 16" on s14? Because I have some close to brand new tires on some shit tsw's that came on the car when I bought it.. Info on the a.r.e's http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=107893 I guess they were made for Fox body chassis?
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11-13-2011, 12:41 PM | #372 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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10j -22, you will need to massively modify the wheel well in order to get full lock, specially when you're low. 17x10j +0 on undersized 235/40s, I was having full lock issues where I was rubbing all over the place. You can tub the front tubs to give you more clearance but your issue will be the back/firewall side of the wheel well, speciall where the harness comes thru. I rubbed thru the grommet on my first S14.
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11-13-2011, 12:43 PM | #373 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Quote:
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11-13-2011, 02:03 PM | #374 |
Zilvia Member
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Getting the wheels for 250, I know a shop that will redrill them for 150.. don't wanna pay for cost of shipping on some k/os or buying some knicked up rotas for 'cheap' and sure in the hell not getting some 2nd hand xxrs.. just trying something different that I can beat around on, I do have enough for some ssrs or some other upscale brand wheels but I'm just trying to fit these wheels that I can scrape on a curb without grinding my teeth, mind that these are going on my dd..
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11-13-2011, 02:05 PM | #375 | |
Nissanaholic!
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Quote:
Mind telling what your caster was set at? |
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11-13-2011, 07:18 PM | #376 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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No clue on caster, I imagine stock still since I never messed with the tension rods after getting an alignment.
Mind you, I've messed with toe and camber alot, most of it was just eye balling it, tape measure for the toe and a digital level for camber. I usually set my camber to about -2.5 to -3.0 camber using a $40 digital level from craftsman. Setting the toe, all you really need is to make sure the 2 wheels up front is parallel to each other with a measuring tape. Measure the front the wheels and the back of the wheels across from each other and make sure they match. What fenders are you trying to run? I usually pull my stock fenders alot. On my first car, I must have pulled that shit almost 2 inches. Fenders pulled out so much that it started creasing. Some examples of 10j I've ran up front: 17x10 +12 with 12mm spacers on 235/40-17s upfront. This one is the one with the most aggressive pull of all. Rubbed all over the inside but cleared the fenders since I'm running camber and massive pull. 18x10 +18 with 225/40-18s 17x10 +18 with 255/40-17s 18x10 +22 with 13mm spacers to clear suspension and brakes on 225/40-18s |
11-13-2011, 10:33 PM | #377 |
Leaky Injector
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i ordered the extreme dimmensions b sport wide body kit for a coupe (silvia front) im trying to order custom rims from true forged that will fit it nicely. to my knowledge this kit replicates the bn blister kit but im not 100 percent on that. ive done alot of research and it seems everyones running something very different. some guys have 9.5s with -33 up front and 11 with -6 in back others are running 0 offset fronts and -33 out back...this has been very confusing to me. this car is strictly a track car so the suspension settings will be whatever the builder decides is best for drifting. any help would be greatly appretiated. (i cannot do the measurements myself im deployed and just trying to finish this thing up before i get back so i can enjoy it)
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11-18-2011, 08:52 AM | #378 |
Zilvia Member
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Volk Racing Te37 Wheel Rim 17x7 0 4x114 3 Et0 - Vrte3717x7 0-4x114 3-ET0 - 4x114 3 - 17 Inch - Te37 - Volk Racing - Wheels Rims - Wheels - by Volk Racing - Volks Racing Te37 is a One Piece Forged Wheel That is Designed for Light Weight Performance an
I guess these will do, anybody have pics of s14 running 17x7 +0?
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11-18-2011, 09:20 AM | #379 |
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^You can't be serious...
I have a feeling you want those solely because they're legit TE37's. But c'mon man, those aren't even the awesome kind of TE's. You're better off on spending money on TE reps than paying for legit TE's in weak size/offset. |
11-18-2011, 10:01 AM | #380 |
Zilvia Member
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Buying these solely because they're in my price range for some dailys plus the quality is what I am most certainly attracted to since my girlfriend is going to most likely curb em & carelessly drive over/into anything while I'm @ work. I'd hate to grab a second set of reps within a matter of months, we all know how reps are prone to bends or cracks off of a small dip & I live in a city where tax money isn't used for potholes.. I also want to rock some meaty tires for more ride comfort&traction since winter is here.
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11-18-2011, 10:25 AM | #382 |
Zilvia Member
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Tell me about it, I'm like over the top when it comes to speed bumps... "Perfect angle, sloww... Slowww. Made it!" When she drives, she's like "fuck yeahh! Speed bump wooohoo *scRRRRAAAPE there's even frame damage under my car from this one time she pulled off of a sidewalk... everytime something like that happens, she's like "eh whatever I want a range" fml
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11-18-2011, 01:18 PM | #383 |
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punch that bitch in the ovaries and teach her to drive.
Or stop letting her drive your shit until she gives a fuck. I dont even let my chick drive my 2tone because it has a HUD windshield and Im afraid of something happening to it lol.
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11-18-2011, 02:08 PM | #386 | |
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Quote:
Maiku240sxS14 - The issue you are going to run into is, with 8º of caster and no tubs you'll rub up front with just about everything at full lock. I believe I was running somewhere around 6º on my 10 +7 set up, and I beat out the wheel well about as much as I could, and would still have some slight rubbing on my wiring harness grommet, and that thing was tucked WAY back. Now I know you said you'd need tubs (I was just confirming this). Another thing to consider is if you're planning on being super low, you will eventually have issues with your tire hitting your bumper with 8º of caster. I am probably between 6-7º now and my tire is eating through my zip ties on my bumper, so I have to raise it up some and dial a little caster out. That's also with a 235/40/17 NT05, a 225/35/18 will be way shorter and give you way more room. I think I might try out some 245/35/17s up front next. That will give me another 1/2" of clearance. Anyone ran Toyo R1Rs up front?
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11-23-2011, 12:14 PM | #387 | |
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11-23-2011, 02:03 PM | #388 |
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^It all depends on how low you are going to go.
People, people, people. You can make ANY wheel fit on ANY S-Chassis. 18X9.5 +15 is FINE on the S-Chassis with stock height, lowering springs, coilovers, etc. It all depends on your ride's height. If you're going to ask a question, please include what you plan on doing with the ride height (slammed, tucking, 4x4, etc.). It makes answering your questions THAT much easier. If you plan on slamming the car, the fronts will need hammer time for the inner fenders. The rears will require a slight pull to clear the tires unless you are tucking. If you don't want to slam your car, the wheels fit. |
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