the wire tuck pic thread

[Pure_JDM]

Awesome thread guys, I wanted to let ya know that it's appreciated.

[3AM]

So does anyone have a source to get new pins from? doing my looms soon and have no idea where to start looking for new pins for the factory plugs.

[mrchomponthis]

just re use your old pins its already been covered

Originally Posted by 3AM

So does anyone have a source to get new pins from? doing my looms soon and have no idea where to start looking for new pins for the factory plugs.

[3AM]

do you mean removing the old pins and recrimping them? or soldering the old plugs into the new loom?,

both sound like bad idea.

[GSXRJJordan]

You won't be able to de-crimp the old pins.

I've had great success with soldering new wire to the old pins by cutting ~1.5" pigtails (staggered so as not to cause a 'clump' when re-sleeved) and removing all the insulation. Then assuming the crimp and pin are in good condition, solder to the old wire and slide heat shrink all the way up the wire to the crimp.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by 3AM

So does anyone have a source to get new pins from? doing my looms soon and have no idea where to start looking for new pins for the factory plugs.

The pins are universal electric bullshit. it's the plugs you'd be hard to find new.

[mrchomponthis]

thanks for the info

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

You won't be able to de-crimp the old pins.

I've had great success with soldering new wire to the old pins by cutting ~1.5" pigtails (staggered so as not to cause a 'clump' when re-sleeved) and removing all the insulation. Then assuming the crimp and pin are in good condition, solder to the old wire and slide heat shrink all the way up the wire to the crimp.

[bb4_96]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

The pins are universal electric bullshit. it's the plugs you'd be hard to find new.

Not entirely true on both accounts.

[bb4_96]

Originally Posted by Slideways74

I can't take credit for the wire tuck on my car. But I did work my ass off to make the money it cost me to have it done, so I'll take credit that way.

Full chassis rewire. Engine harness has all unnecessary wires removed. All wires sleeved. Fuse panel rebuilt and moved under dash. OBDII port wired in (its a 95 S14).Pictures are worth 100 words so...

You sir, are a motherfucker, I mean that in the best way.

[NORFY]

My car is a s13 uk spec with a ca18det and silvia front

Over the past few months I've been working on making my car a bit tidier, namely building a custom loom and trying to tidy alot of the car up. I'm pretty much a wiring freak. Also worth noting is that this build is only semi-tucked/tidied, I use the car on track so need some function as well.


Anyway, the loom I've been working on.

To keep things neat, relocated the ecu to the centre and the ECCS loom to come through the firewall directly in front to keep it neat


My ECCS loom. Made it to hide under the inlet


Engine all wired in


Also I routed the afm cable down the passenger wing and up in the front of the arch (in my custom airbox)


Built up separate arch looms to feed the front lights. Now have 7 wires in each.


Most of this lot is for the central fuse boxes and switch panel


Central located maxi fuses


Switch panel


Couldn't lose or hide the wipermotor so this was the best I could do with hiding the wiring

[bb4_96]

Originally Posted by 3AM

So does anyone have a source to get new pins from? doing my looms soon and have no idea where to start looking for new pins for the factory plugs.

There is no trouble getting these at all. There just isn't enough demand for any individual or shop to stock them. You'll be lucky if the supplier will sell you only a single reel (3000 pins). In addition the reels aren't cheap when you can find them. I had a guy look me square in the eye and tell me he'd sell me 500 of everything I needed for $1 per contact lol. Or go the other route and buy chinese knockoffs of the original parts.

[godrifttoday]

Stock wiring . Stripped everything except head lights, tail lights, fuel. Ignition . I depinned from the main harness located on the driver side by your left foot. Still not done but almost. Need to finish the front headlights

[Wongger]

Wow, I love this thread. I wish I could do something like this, but I do not have the patience lol.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

The pins are universal electric bullshit. it's the plugs you'd be hard to find new.

God I wish they were universal. There are as many different styles of pins as there are models of cars on the road. Now I don't rewire entire cars for a living, but I do some form of wiring in them all day long, 6 days a week. And I work on virtually every model of car out there new and old. I have unplugged and replugged at least a couple hundred thousand OEM plugs in my 19 years of installation. Anything from radio plugs to BCM, ECM, and anything and everything in between... from a Kia Spectra to Lamborghinis and Ferraris. Many times I have to add OEM pins if I'm adding cruise control or something of the sort.

As for the plugs, you can get them brand new, you just may need to buy them in bulk. I know Chase has all of the new OEM KA, SR, LS, Honda plugs and so on in stock.... so they can definitely be had. But I guarantee you he had to buy most of them in bulk.

I can't wait till I can post a picture of mine in here again.

[JaredP]

good thread, but a couple questions:

1. is it ok (electrically, considering resistances) to cut that much out of the interior/engine room harness? im assuming yes since no one has complained about stuff not working after.

2. whats a good "off the shelf" fuse/relay holder i can use if i choose to get rid of the fuse/relay boxes? also assuming most will work as long as you get the right type of relays

3. can anyone post more pics of how the wiring is ran inside behind the dash. wouldnt mind getting some ideas that way

4. what about grounds? did you all keep the grounds grouped like they come stock (only 3 or 4 main chassis grounds for the interior harness) or did you remake most of them

[WISH ONE]

What about vibration, are old connectors more prone to failure due to excessive vibration racing-wise?
When re-doing a harness is everyone replacing all these ends or continuing to use the old ones?

[godrifttoday]

^
it could just be me but got some of my connectors they were hard to remove. So I doubt I'll have issues. But this I's for the chassis harness and the one going to the fuse boxes I'n the engine bay. The wires I did have to cut . I heat shrink them and soder them.

[PerilousActs]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

^
it could just be me but got some of my connectors they were hard to remove. So I doubt I'll have issues. But this I's for the chassis harness and the one going to the fuse boxes I'n the engine bay. The wires I did have to cut . I heat shrink them and soder them.

The proper way is to actually crimp them back. Solder does not hold up well to vibration. I know a lot of people do it and have no problems, but keep it in mind. As long as there is proper strain relief, you might be able to get away with it (which is what the heatshrink should help with).

[unpaintedhatch]

That Dakota Digital encoder looks exactly like the programmable logic controllers i use at work... I love this thread..

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

The proper way is to actually crimp them back. Solder does not hold up well to vibration. I know a lot of people do it and have no problems, but keep it in mind. As long as there is proper strain relief, you might be able to get away with it (which is what the heatshrink should help with).

i did notice that on the stock wiring, they are criped on their but for the wiring i did solder and heat shirnk their is plenty of slack its for the rear lights

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by JaredP

good thread, but a couple questions:

1. is it ok (electrically, considering resistances) to cut that much out of the interior/engine room harness? im assuming yes since no one has complained about stuff not working after.

2. whats a good "off the shelf" fuse/relay holder i can use if i choose to get rid of the fuse/relay boxes? also assuming most will work as long as you get the right type of relays

3. can anyone post more pics of how the wiring is ran inside behind the dash. wouldnt mind getting some ideas that way

4. what about grounds? did you all keep the grounds grouped like they come stock (only 3 or 4 main chassis grounds for the interior harness) or did you remake most of them

No offense, but if you have to ask these types of questions, then you have no business rewiring your entire vehicle yourself.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by JaredP

good thread, but a couple questions:

1. is it ok (electrically, considering resistances) to cut that much out of the interior/engine room harness? im assuming yes since no one has complained about stuff not working after.

2. whats a good "off the shelf" fuse/relay holder i can use if i choose to get rid of the fuse/relay boxes? also assuming most will work as long as you get the right type of relays

3. can anyone post more pics of how the wiring is ran inside behind the dash. wouldnt mind getting some ideas that way

4. what about grounds? did you all keep the grounds grouped like they come stock (only 3 or 4 main chassis grounds for the interior harness) or did you remake most of them

Some of the questions are valid.

1. I don't know shit about resistances I know I cut a good 3 feet of wire out of my sr20 harness.

turned these two



into this



turns out I used non adhesive heat shrink in a few places so had to re-heat shrink all of the soldering just in case. Also had to open it up a few nights ago turns out some shielding was touching a solder joint in heat shrink on the tps wiring. (my fault)



that's what it looks like now. Going to make an all new harness with my engine management wired into the mix and replace a few oem components with those fancy douche connectors (lol too lazy to find the proper spelling)

2. There is no off the shelf relay holder, you won't find half of the shit you need in a store. Blue Sea is a good one (google it, not spoon feeding you.) There is a s14 fusebox relocation thread you can reference that. The rest you need to study your service manuals electric section and learn how to understand that.

You will quickly come to realize only like 6 fucking people on this website know what they're talking about when it comes to wiring and wiring diagrams, etc. and only like 1 person I trust as far as how electronics essentially even work.

[JaredP]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

No offense, but if you have to ask these types of questions, then you have no business rewiring your entire vehicle yourself.

the only questions i can see not being an issue with someone who was very comfortable with wiring are 1 and 4, and even 4 is more of a "is the grouped grounding enough or were better results found with splitting them up a little more." i knwo enough about grounds to know that theyre critical in a circuit and you need a good, solid connection. my bad for not knowing the 100% details of every load in the car to know if its resistance dependant. i assumed not but it cant hurt to ask.

thank you omikron for your answer. maybe "off the shelf" was a bad way of putting it. i know what relays i need (and how relays work), just wondering if there were any tips and tricks for getting a number of them to fit together. ive never attempted something like this but feel confident that i could do it. at any rate i dont frequent electrical stores to see what i like.

something like this:


looks really good, and i wouldnt mind knowing some of the details, but i will be pm'ing the one who did it

[Broadfield]

Ok, maybe I was a little too hasty. Some of your questions came across as very basic, but I guess I have been doing this stuff forever and forget that it's not always common knowledge to everyone. So I sincerely apologize for that and will try to help out.

Resistance is really only important in your ground wires. Typically you want them as short as possible. This will yield the least resistance to ground which is always a good thing. I have extended wires over 80 feet when doing backup cameras on 18 wheelers on the trailer for example. Or when I'm doing 50 ft. speed boats and need to run wires(speaker, power, audio signal etc.) from one side down the boat, across and back up the other side. As long as the wire can handle the current flow needed for it's given gauge and length then you are good to go.

As for some basic fuse holders, you can check this place:

Fuse Blocks and Fuse Panels

You can also find OEM quality SAE certified wiring here along with other goodies:

Waytek Inc, Home page to buy fuses, circuit breakers, cable ties, wire and other electrical supplies By Waytek Inc.

[JaredP]

thank you very much broadfield. i understand how often noobs can come into a thread and just ask things over and over and it gets a little tiresome after a while. i will definitely look into those links

[Om1kron]

as for the relays I had a site not long ago I originally was going to purchase mine from, they come with the relay in different sizes depending on what you need and if you want have the plugs you can wire up. painless relay kits I believe can be grouped together.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

as for the relays I had a site not long ago I originally was going to purchase mine from, they come with the relay in different sizes depending on what you need and if you want have the plugs you can wire up. painless relay kits I believe can be grouped together.

That second link I posted, Waytek, has a gnarly load of different relays and solenoids.

[scottie]

Broadfield makes very good points here. I have an account at Waytek and will be gather up connectors and such to rewire the entire chassis on my S13.

[conrad_s13.5]

figured id ask the pro's a quick question:

preparing for potential flaming,...lol


I eliminated all fusebox's in my s13, and running basic essentials with my Arc Panel. Just trying to mock up finally giving everything power.

Was going to run from the battery to a 120amp circuit breaker, from there to a 3 split distribution block. 1 for ALT, 1 for Starter, 1 to Arc fuse panel, with Kill switch inbetween.

This is simplified, there are going to be a couple other randoms going to constant power, but these are the big things im worried about.

see ok?,...or completely not?

I read somewhere in here or maybe somewhere else (could have been jordan) saying he runs a 100amp between alt and starter, and 200-300amp coming straight off the battery.

thanks for the input/help!

[whatbrokethistime]

Engine harness (rb25 neo to S14)



Dash harness


Chassis harness - relocated fuse box





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