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Old 03-18-2012, 12:03 PM   #3781
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wheel and tyre clearance yo!! haha not the sump and yeah iam using that crappy old ruckus racing shizzle. tbh though i sits the engine nice and low and hasnt broken yet, going strong since 09
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:07 PM   #3782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ka-titties View Post


dont let too many people on Zilvia know. they may kick you off for not being SLAMMED/ILLEST/WRONG FITMENT CREWED out.

Haha to be honest it still looks fairly ok in pics when its squating lol
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:10 PM   #3783
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That's a neat front wishbone there Swiftmini, here is what I am working on:





Only the lower control arm is correct in that picture, wheel is at 64 degrees compared to control arm so clearence with control arm is good, however I have no way to measure clearence with the body. Wisefab arm is super wide to compensate, mine isn't because I don't intend to have that much steering lock in the first place.

There is also a lot of work to be done on reducing the mass of the it. I am thinking of making it thinner and 3 dimensional with tall edges like this arm:

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Old 03-19-2012, 08:36 AM   #3784
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Thanks man, iam happy with them. They do exactly what i want

Thats a neat design of lca but 64* is insane for trailing wheel!! I haven't a clue how much angle my setup achieves! It's more than enough.

Too be honest over the last 2 years i have tweaked abit here and there, I have managed to get considerable more lock BUT its barely noticeable imo. I think going as extreme as wisefab isn't really needed. I think once you get to a certain point the steering becomes less important than other things, like front to rear grip differential, and I believe that i want excessive camber increase on full lock so the front slides better.

Just my opinion based on my driving style lol
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:21 PM   #3785
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What kind of inner and outer tie rods should be used for mainly drift?
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:50 PM   #3786
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I got my hands on the Newest Drift works knuckles with their Black Zinc coating!! and it looks like the fixed the issue using a drum e brake(no more cable issues)



I got them from Brad at GroundWerks Garage
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:03 AM   #3787
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how long did it take for you to get them?

and that new coating looks so much better than the old.

i may have missed it but does anyone know if they have a version or are planning a version with a bracket for a second rear break caliper?
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:09 AM   #3788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantaloons View Post
I got my hands on the Newest Drift works knuckles with their Black Zinc coating!! and it looks like the fixed the issue using a drum e brake(no more cable issues)
any actual pictures of e-drum installed and working?
is there room now for the axle seals?
they look a lot better but too bad they're using off the shelf tubing and those gross bushings
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:38 PM   #3789
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i doubt they will add the extra tabs for 2nd calipers! On Powers car they used a plate between the hub and knuckle, 10mm plate i think.

Dunno about drum brake, i have read it doesnt work so good upside down! maybe look on the driftworks forum, i dont really go there any more
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:07 PM   #3790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManoNegra View Post
any actual pictures of e-drum installed and working?
is there room now for the axle seals?
they look a lot better but too bad they're using off the shelf tubing and those gross bushings
I use a dual caliper setup. I wouldn't know
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:26 AM   #3791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantaloons View Post
and it looks like the fixed the issue using a drum e brake(no more cable issues)
]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantaloons View Post
I use a dual caliper setup. I wouldn't know
thanks, very helpful
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:23 PM   #3792
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is there a general amount to add to the LCA to get certain amount of camber?

i think my chassis needs to be straightened out but i have -2.5 on driver side and -3.5 pass side. But im looking to redo my front end for knuckles/rack move, etc and would like 4-5 degrees.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:52 PM   #3793
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If anyone happens to know, can you please tell me what the ratio is for an S13 steering rack, normal and HICAS, how many turns lock-to-lock, and what the rack travel distance is?

Possibly pinion angle and spline specifics, and inner tie rod bolt size and thread.

I want to have a quick ratio & longer travel manual rack made, and it would be nice to at least have specific numbers to go off of.
Cheers.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:17 PM   #3794
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can anyone post a pic up of a offset rack spacer installed lined up with the Lcas? on a s13 please
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:27 PM   #3795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matej View Post
If anyone happens to know, can you please tell me what the ratio is for an S13 steering rack, normal and HICAS, how many turns lock-to-lock, and what the rack travel distance is?

Possibly pinion angle and spline specifics, and inner tie rod bolt size and thread.

I want to have a quick ratio & longer travel manual rack made, and it would be nice to at least have specific numbers to go off of.
Cheers.
Lock To Lock
HICAS - 2.6
Non-HICAS - 3.1

Ratio
HICAS Steering Rack Ratio: 14.9:1
Non-HICAS Steering Rack Ratio: 17.0:1
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:22 PM   #3796
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I should probably take pics later to help with this but. I have PBM tie rod spacers on both sides and George's rack spacer on the passenger side. To the left at lock the tie rod hits the bump stop on the control arm, so it's getting great angle. But to the right, it hardly gets any more than stock and that doesn't make sense since that's where the big spacer is located?
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:20 AM   #3797
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Recenter your rack
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:39 AM   #3798
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I decided to start working on some old prototype rlcas. Iam gonna make these work for testing purposes and then make some fresh ones with some changes.

I will be ditching the outer rose joints and replace with sphericals and cups. Inboard I can't decide whether to use rosejoints or make them non adjustable and use sphericals!

Next ones will be lighter materials

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Old 03-23-2012, 02:55 AM   #3799
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Those look really beefy! Are you using sphericns instead of rose joint to improve the stiffness of the arm?
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:09 AM   #3800
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Yeah man they are really hench, far too over built lol.

Yeah sphericals to remove rosejoints in bending and add some stiffness.

I might just start from scratch right away
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:49 PM   #3801
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how much adjustment over stock would they provide?
what raw materials are you using?
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:17 AM   #3802
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Holy bat tits....


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Old 03-24-2012, 08:12 AM   #3803
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There various thread on NRR already dealing with these topics
one of the more extensive ones:
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:39 AM   #3804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lewis99 View Post
There various thread on NRR already dealing with these topics
one of the more extensive ones:
Your link is bogus, and I'm not sure what you're talking about.

Sorry that I haven't updated the main post guys, it's beginning to look REALLY old now. I'll try and get on that this week.
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:20 PM   #3805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Your link is bogus, and I'm not sure what you're talking about.

Sorry that I haven't updated the main post guys, it's beginning to look REALLY old now. I'll try and get on that this week.
It's smart SPAM. I've been reporting them like crazy.
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:25 PM   #3806
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Along with the above:


This image shows the back side of the support structure for the arm mounting points.



This image gives you a perspective on just how far in and how long the lower arm is:

Pretty interesting stuff.
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:26 PM   #3807
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Can anyone identify those front knuckles?
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:34 PM   #3808
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AWD G35x stuff? It'd fit with the engine.
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:22 PM   #3809
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Nope :/
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:01 PM   #3810
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They look like Skyline knuckles.
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