2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by dpkid101

dakota box with stock cluster

what harness? apparently with wiring specialties [harness i have] they already have the wires ready and labeled to be hooked up. was wondering if anyones done it. you got the martin crawler speed sensor adapter too?

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

what harness? apparently with wiring specialties [harness i have] they already have the wires ready and labeled to be hooked up. was wondering if anyones done it. you got the martin crawler speed sensor adapter too?

I did the harness myself so I cant comment on that issue but I would have to check to see which pin I used, and no I don't have my speedo hooked up

Edit: Just looked back at my notes and tach signal is pin F12 off of the body loom plug. You connect this to the Dakota box, from there to your tach.

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by RaNMaN

well then "they" are idiots. that's the exact same setup that I've been using for 3+ years. the only place my fuel setup has clamps is at the fuel cap. you can make 1500-1600whp using a single -8an feed and single -6an return on e98. my engine tuner's girlfriend's Supra is using that exact setup for around 1500-1600whp but respectfully I was asked to not go into any more detail than that.

so you have been using twist-lok hoses and fittings for fuel with no issues? that's what i like to hear. i was unsure of whether or not they would hold up, but from what i've been reading once you have the hose on the fitting it really doesnt like to come back off lol.

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by E Double

so you have been using twist-lok hoses and fittings for fuel with no issues? that's what i like to hear. i was unsure of whether or not they would hold up, but from what i've been reading once you have the hose on the fitting it really doesnt like to come back off lol.

No sorry for the confusion. I use clamps on my SS lines at the fuel cap on the barbs. The rest of my fuel line setup uses black anodized AN fittings. I have friends that use push lock hoses and fittings and they swear by it. It is much easier and faster to use push lock. Both ways work well and are proven but I think that some racing sanctions specify the use of AN fittings.


Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[CooleyXXXIII]

Anybody have a vvti 1j ecu laying around for sale?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sky80]

Freed Mounts for sale - S14! Bump my thread if you take a look!

Thanks!

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=558333

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by E Double

so you have been using twist-lok hoses and fittings for fuel with no issues? that's what i like to hear. i was unsure of whether or not they would hold up, but from what i've been reading once you have the hose on the fitting it really doesnt like to come back off lol.

Yes this is correct, you do not want to use any kind of clamps with the twist lok hoses. I ran them in my previous project which was a '06 STI. -8 Feed with -6 Return, everything was twistlok, and as you said not only are they hard to take off once they are on(I just cut mine if I needed adjustments) they are also a B**ch to put on!

Link to project -

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2285887

[BiG MiKE86]

Hey guys how far should my wideband be from the back of the turbo? Gonna be running an innovate wideband as my O2 - no narrowband (AEM v2)

[erics240sx]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

Hey guys how far should my wideband be from the back of the turbo? Gonna be running an innovate wideband as my O2 - no narrowband (AEM v2)

About 6inches. Usually at the 90 degree bend. 👍👍


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mister.E]

Thanks for all of the information on the fuel hoses guys. Can i not clamp the open ends directly over the smooth barbs on the S14 OEM fuel pump assembly? Like will i have to terminate the twist-lok line with an AN fitting and then use an AN-to-barb adapter and then connect the two barbs using regular fuel hose?

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by E Double

Thanks for all of the information on the fuel hoses guys. Can i not clamp the open ends directly over the smooth barbs on the S14 OEM fuel pump assembly? Like will i have to terminate the twist-lok line with an AN fitting and then use an AN-to-barb adapter and then connect the two barbs using regular fuel hose?

IMO I think you could use clamps at the tank and be safe since those barbs are not like push lock hose barbs. Really shouldnt be a problem. But this is just my

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by E Double

Thanks for all of the information on the fuel hoses guys. Can i not clamp the open ends directly over the smooth barbs on the S14 OEM fuel pump assembly? Like will i have to terminate the twist-lok line with an AN fitting and then use an AN-to-barb adapter and then connect the two barbs using regular fuel hose?

yes, clamp the open end over the smooth barbs, just make sure that you clamp it good and tight.

[Mister.E]

Cool i figured that was the case. I could see the hose getting cut by the sharp ass barbs if you used clamps on the fittings.

[xoxide]

I think I need a fuel cut defender...

Running stock twins with an ebay y-pipe/downpipe, and straight blast pipes (all 3 inch no mufflers etc.)... FMIC, standard stuff, JDM Supra TT ECU. If I hit right around 6-6200rpm my car will cut really bad for a brief second, I let off the gas a little bit, and get back on it and its fine until I hit 6-6200 again...... Is this boost cut? I believe im boosting around 18psi but not 100% sure.


It also idles rich, like 12.1-12.3 on my wideband, and varies at throttle anywhere from 12.4-13.1 or so.... stock FPR and walbro 255

[supercompact]

Originally Posted by xoxide

I think I need a fuel cut defender...

Running stock twins with an ebay y-pipe/downpipe, and straight blast pipes (all 3 inch no mufflers etc.)... FMIC, standard stuff, JDM Supra TT ECU. If I hit right around 6-6200rpm my car will cut really bad for a brief second, I let off the gas a little bit, and get back on it and its fine until I hit 6-6200 again...... Is this boost cut? I believe im boosting around 18psi but not 100% sure.


It also idles rich, like 12.1-12.3 on my wideband, and varies at throttle anywhere from 12.4-13.1 or so.... stock FPR and walbro 255

Idling that rich at idle probably means you have a vacuum leak somewhere post throttle body. Could also be the reason for the hiccup.

[Mister.E]

Correct me if im wrong but doesnt the factory ECU cut fuel after 14lbs of boost? I could have sworn that i read somewhere that if you are using the stock ECU it's always best to get a fuel cut defender.

[supercompact]

Originally Posted by Dook-E

Correct me if im wrong but doesnt the factory ECU cut fuel after 14lbs of boost? I could have sworn that i read somewhere that if you are using the stock ECU it's always best to get a fuel cut defender.

Yes, 14.7. At least that's how it was on my supra.

[Mister.E]

Would make sense since 14.7lbs is 1bar. i would suggest getting an FCD, but i dont think that is going to fix your idling issue.

[xoxide]

Im not terribly concerned about the rich condition... Id rather it run rich than lean lol.... Main concern is the cutting.... Going to perform a boost/vac leak test today some time... I thought the 2j cut was 17psi? Could be wrong though.

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by xoxide

Im not terribly concerned about the rich condition... Id rather it run rich than lean lol.... Main concern is the cutting.... Going to perform a boost/vac leak test today some time... I thought the 2j cut was 17psi? Could be wrong though.

17psi? That changes things up a bit, I also thought it was around 14.

[xoxide]

Also, noticed quiet a bit of oil blasted up on my firewall.. I felt around and it seems like most of it is coming from the bottom of the stock TT hotpipe... Took an IC pipe off and there is oil blown on the inside of the piping (not a TON just enough to make everything slightly covered).... What would this indicate, blown turbos?

[AS240]

Originally Posted by ATLspeed

Anyone using Freed Engineering mounts (s13)? I was told the head has about half an inch of clearance between the head and firewall.

I'm using Freed mounts. I have 1" of clearance from the head to firewall per digital micrometer.

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by AS240

I'm using Freed mounts. I have 1" of clearance from the head to firewall per digital micrometer.

I'll measure mine tomorrow - I think that's about where I'm at as well. Get nuts lab brackets and custom 2" aluminum mounts

[ATLspeed]

Thanks, looking to switch my eBay brackets later down the road and it'll be between Get Nuts Lab and Ben Freed.

*Also, those with Tweakd and Wire Specialties harness did you have to run your fuel pump off a separate relay? Or does it just come on like the stock harness?

I have a Chasebays ( ._.), sent it out to get "fixed" and of course it still doesn't work. Not sure if it's because I swapped everything into my s13 vert (I did the whole 5sp swap before hand) or just the harness itself.

[Mr. Phonso]

if you have stock ecu i dont think it can control the nissan 12v relay

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

if you have stock ecu i dont think it can control the nissan 12v relay

My thoughts exactly. They (CBs) is for certain that it will with one of the unused slots/pins on the ecu. I've studied the ecu pinouts so many times that I could make my own harness but I can't due to work schedule.

[Sky80]

I have a Tweaked harness and it came with a built in relay for the fuel pump. Turns on just like it always has!

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by Sky80

I have a Tweaked harness and it came with a built in relay for the fuel pump. Turns on just like it always has!

I believe my wiring specialities also has this same deal - there are 1-2 relays right next to the ECU probably for this as well. Car starts up no issue with stock ECU / AFC NEO

[xoxide]

Something else id like to get worked out before the next event....

I remember reading JZ's run hot, but sitting on the grid my water temp is around 190ish on a hotter day, 180 on a cooler day.... After I go for a run and come back to the grid my water temp ranges from 220-250 and then lowers back down to 180-190.... It doesn't seem like it should be getting that high?

I have a Koyo 2 rod radiator, dual 12 inch flex-a-lite pusher (normal configuration) fans, stock t-stat, distilled water, and problend motorsports 40 below water additive. 1.1 bar radiator cap.

Any ideas on what I can do to get it to run cooler? There are no air bubbles in the system, ive bled it multiple times, and top off the water after every few runs if it needs.

[Mr. Phonso]

lower temp t stat will help you greatly. My cruising temps stayed at 180F but when I romp on it I noticed with the lower temp t stat my temps dropped about 20F cooler than with the stock stat

I'm using a forged racing tstat. I would have gone TRD if it wasn't insanely priced at $120