Emance Rom Tune Answers

[FusionR240sx]

Originally Posted by Chrischeezer

anyone have a z32 maf hooked up with this ECU? on their SR20??

what in/out settings did u guys use?

are u talking about a safc?
cuz i have a z32 maf with his rom tune

but i'm not using a safc and wont be

[FusionR240sx]

no problems here besides my "speed limiter" not being removed..

[cotbu]

2in 2out if, it's tuned for a z32 mafs

FusionR240sx, I can remove that for you free of charge, send me the bin, then you burn it. Or, if you send me the chips i'll re-burn then send it back. If the chips are OTP chips, I'll have to sell you my chips with your tune burned. Special Zilvia Price for the chips.

[BigVinnie]

Serious question for emance...
You sold my boy Tony a tune with timing clocked at 20BTDC. His cas is set at 20, he is using an OBD1 ecu for his OBD2 engine.
Why the fuck is the timing so advanced? His boosted KA24det should be at about 12~15 degrees of timing not 20.....
You told him that 20 degrees was fine? What the fuck is up with that? Do you know how hot plugs are with that advancement under boost?
He's running 16 seconds in the quarter mile and having misfire issues....
Whats the deal with that?

[ATLspeed]

nvm....mine is fine

[shift_drift]

This shithead scammed me out of $55 for a ka24de ecu last year. I shipped him that shit and he never payed me. You are a piece of shit Jason...nobody trust this cum dumpster and his shit tunes.

I wish I saw this thread earlier so I could've exposed this cock bag.

[frosti108]

i got my ECU tuned by jason from emance. i pm'd him on ka-t, and then sent him my sohc ECU with a paper of what i have done. im pretty sure it was only a week or 2 turn around time. and i think it was something like $85 even. he socketed and tuned it for me.
i got the ecu back in the same condition i sent it. i hooked it back up and then it took me a few days to get the in/out settings right on my apexi AFC neo. but anyway lets get to the point.
when i figured out the apexi afc, the tune was awesome. (afc is running with no corrections at all, just had to get the mafs settings right, nothing to do with jasons tune)

before getting the emance tune, i was simply running 4 or 5* retarded base timing at the distributor. this compared to the emance tune was like night and day.

the car actually pulls hard now and i havent even turned the boost all the way up to what i told him id be running. also he raised the rev limits and removed the speed limiters for me although i havent tested them yet.

overall im very pleased with the service. i dont think you can do much better for 85!
sure it didnt come with any cool stickers or anything, but i DID get everything i paid for.

i dont know what kind of experiences all of you had, but mine was a good one.

i think i dealt with him about a couple months ago

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

Serious question for emance...
You sold my boy Tony a tune with timing clocked at 20BTDC. His cas is set at 20, he is using an OBD1 ecu for his OBD2 engine.
Why the fuck is the timing so advanced? His boosted KA24det should be at about 12~15 degrees of timing not 20.....
You told him that 20 degrees was fine? What the fuck is up with that? Do you know how hot plugs are with that advancement under boost?
He's running 16 seconds in the quarter mile and having misfire issues....
Whats the deal with that?

did u check the timing while boosting or did u just check it at idle? lol

[FusionR240sx]

Originally Posted by frosti108

overall im very pleased with the service. i dont think you can do much better for 85!

mine was $135...
and i had to get it installed at my friends work.
and i don't think my speed limiter was removed. cuz i cut out at 117

[importdude]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

Serious question for emance...
You sold my boy Tony a tune with timing clocked at 20BTDC. His cas is set at 20, he is using an OBD1 ecu for his OBD2 engine.
Why the fuck is the timing so advanced? His boosted KA24det should be at about 12~15 degrees of timing not 20.....
You told him that 20 degrees was fine? What the fuck is up with that? Do you know how hot plugs are with that advancement under boost?
He's running 16 seconds in the quarter mile and having misfire issues....
Whats the deal with that?

hey vince i think you misunderstood me

i meant to say 20 base timing
its at 13-15 timing in boost

car traps at 101(spining 1st and with a 2.40 60ft, soft launch) so im more than happy with that just im a newb at rwd launching for now


my Experiances with jason are nothing but good when he does respond

sent me numerous chips b/c my shitty ass top feeds before

the tune im running now seems to be rock solid
~14 part throttle,
11's in boost

car drives like stock besides the rich lift off(mabe longer maf pipe or bov problem)

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by importdude

car drives like stock besides the rich lift off(mabe longer maf pipe or bov problem)

That intake pipe does pose a problem.... Thanks for the clarification, when we were chatting you did give me a short run down......
Your R/T times weren't that bad though so either I think the tuning is a little off, or your clutch is major slippage.... Either that or your VLSD might be more li8ke a open diff.
I'm NA and am running low 15's, to high 14's depending on the weather,air temperature, and my R/T which is anywhere between 1.8~7.5 seconds at most..
I would of thought that your car would of ran much better times with your set up...

[importdude]

I think my i must heat my tires up and launch harder
(was affriad to do a full burnout with brakes)

My 2nd run was 14.188 @ 101 with a 2.44 60 ft

with 2.2 or 2.0 60fts ill be mid 13's easily

as u can see in the videos
im basially not launching hard at all

YouTube - Tony's s14 turbo 10psi ka24de-t

[frosti108]

Originally Posted by importdude

i meant to say 20 base timing
its at 13-15 timing in boost

lol thats what i figured.

Originally Posted by importdude

I think my i must heat my tires up and launch harder
(was affriad to do a full burnout with brakes)

My 2nd run was 14.188 @ 101 with a 2.44 60 ft

with 2.2 or 2.0 60fts ill be mid 13's easily

as u can see in the videos
im basially not launching hard at all

YouTube - Tony's s14 turbo 10psi ka24de-t

yea man if you get that 60ft down towards 2.0 youll be SET. best thing you can do is get a welded and get some practice. and if you got some extra dough, get some drag radials or slicks for some real nice times.
that 101mph trap is good for mid 13s brotha

[nosajton]

Originally Posted by sr20det0821

i got a e-mance tune and my car ran good but it leaned out. and melted the piston. i know i got enough fuel, but i dont think his tunes are good for people making good hp numbers. i am currently going with the haltech standalone, and i am getting it tuned on a dyno. his tunes are good if you wanna get your car running with what you have, but if you are running high boost like 18-20 pounds then i woulden't recommened him.

did you rewire your walbro or run the stock fuel wires? this is very common with 18+psi cars leaning out if you use stock wires.
check http://www.ka-t.org/s14_walbro_rewire.php for more info. people are very fast to blame a tune for all their problems.

also if you think you're running high boost or I cannot tune for high boost, these are some 30psi pulls on my car. im pulling 7.2 1/8'ths at 105mph.

they're a little dark but gets my point across.

500 whp chevy truck with nitrous

http://www.youtube.com/v/efjHwcCeIhk

mujstang gt with boltons bogged out of the hole

http://www.youtube.com/v/nZwoqGN-y_c
golf gti w/400whp

http://www.youtube.com/v/QG6JA4QMcts

and here's Eric (easye) running a 12.6 ET with a gt2860rs and my tune. he's crazy he pulled his wastegate hose and let it boost to 18psi.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=21263565

[nosajton]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

Serious question for emance...
You sold my boy Tony a tune with timing clocked at 20BTDC. His cas is set at 20, he is using an OBD1 ecu for his OBD2 engine.
Why the fuck is the timing so advanced? His boosted KA24det should be at about 12~15 degrees of timing not 20.....
You told him that 20 degrees was fine? What the fuck is up with that? Do you know how hot plugs are with that advancement under boost?
He's running 16 seconds in the quarter mile and having misfire issues....
Whats the deal with that?

You obviously open your mouth befor eyou know what you're talking about. a ecu tune works a lot different than the way you were trained to ghetto tune by retarding base timing and hooking up a safc.

i told him to set his BASE timing to 20degrees which is stock because my tune retards his timing 0.75degrees per psi of boost.

misfire can be a number of things including improper plug gap, plugs, coil, wires there is too many variables.

Originally Posted by shift_drift

This shithead scammed me out of $55 for a ka24de ecu last year. I shipped him that shit and he never payed me. You are a piece of shit Jason...nobody trust this cum dumpster and his shit tunes.

I wish I saw this thread earlier so I could've exposed this cock bag.

i dont even know who the fuck you are.

[nosajton]

Originally Posted by FusionR240sx

no problems here besides my "speed limiter" not being removed..

speed limiter is removed, its your 4'th/5'th gear rev limiter you are hitting. if you constantly go over 117mph, i can send you a retune to fix this.

pm me if you are interested.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by nosajton

You obviously open your mouth befor eyou know what you're talking about. a ecu tune works a lot different than the way you were trained to ghetto tune by retarding base timing and hooking up a safc.

If you start talking that kind of shit I can guarantee your reputation at 0.....
I was only informing basic information that I was told. It also wasn't that in depth. So I apologize for talking a head of myself, since Tony and I spoke briefly for 15 minutes about his set up.
I do know eccs tuning.
Fact is unless I get into selling chip sets myself tuner-pro, and a eprom burner or anything of that nature, programming is pointless for me.
An SAFC is actually good for real time tuning on the dyno and still to date nor you , JWT, PDM, Enthalapy has beat my NA dyno tuning to date for a NA application, you can count back as far as ten years if you would like and no one to date can surpass my simple tuning logic.
Thats truth and thats relevant.
I'm not hating on you in general, but alot of people claim your customer service is bullshit. If you are going to run a business be a little more discrete.
Don't hate the player, hate the game.....

[nosajton]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

If you start talking that kind of shit I can guarantee your reputation at 0.....
I was only informing basic information that I was told. It also wasn't that in depth. So I apologize for talking a head of myself, since Tony and I spoke briefly for 15 minutes about his set up.
I do know eccs tuning.
Fact is unless I get into selling chip sets myself tuner-pro, and a eprom burner or anything of that nature, programming is pointless for me.
An SAFC is actually good for real time tuning on the dyno and still to date nor you , JWT, PDM, Enthalapy has beat my NA dyno tuning to date for a NA application, you can count back as far as ten years if you would like and no one to date can surpass my simple tuning logic.
Thats truth and thats relevant.
I'm not hating on you in general, but alot of people claim your customer service is bullshit. If you are going to run a business be a little more discrete.
Don't hate the player, hate the game.....

bro i could give 2 shits about my REP on a online forum. i try to offer a affordable alternative to JWT/Enthalpy to help the average 240 owner. can i make everyone happy? absolutely not but i try.

i just hate how people lash out on me talking shit and they dont really know what they're talking about like if you really do know about eccs, you probably wouldnt of opened your mouth about the base timing set at 20degrees.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by nosajton

you probably wouldnt of opened your mouth about the base timing set at 20degrees.

Then obviously you don't know the difference between a CAS/distributor system compared to a DIS ignition system.

Fact is I have spent $300 on a dyno, $150 on an SAFC 2 and out of pocket I delivered positive results with my so called ghettofied/archaic/bullshit tuning, to the community.

Thats free carbon copy information that I spent money on and didn't charge a single individual for.

When the fuck are you going to give the kick me down BIN files..........
Especially since you think myself or anyone else doesn't know shit about your tunes unless there forking out the dinero.

When the fuck are you going to kick down a real dynomometer result for your tuning to show it's even worthy of buying.....
THATS MY FUCKING POINT!

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

Then obviously you don't know the difference between a CAS/distributor system compared to a DIS ignition system.

What does this have to do with anything? I just wanna know because (sorry for not being able to tell exactly what engine is being talked about here SR20DET or KA24DE) but thats besides the point, it sounds like you were trying to imply that the SR20DET timing is not adjustable.

Both the SR20DET Camshaft Position Sensor/Direct/Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) and the KA24DE Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)/Distributor system are adjustable.

The SR20DET is adjusted threw the Camshaft Position Sensor.

The KA24DE is adjustable threw the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

What does this have to do with anything? I just wanna know because (sorry for not being able to tell exactly what engine is being talked about here SR20DET or KA24DE) but thats besides the point, it sounds like you were trying to imply that the SR20DET timing is not adjustable.

It has nothing to do with sensor type that wasn't the point I was coming across.
Distributor rotor style ignition systems are limited to spark and at the degree where the rotor comes across the wire to feed an electrical charge.
Direct ignition doesn't use a rotor since it uses a box to feed each individual coil. DIS is more efficient and effective at delivering spark at any degree of it's advance or retard in it's cycle.


For a old school style cap and rotor type cas/ distributor it's better to set base timing where your average or ball park ignition timing takes place. It would make the rotor type more efficient at delivering spark. It also simplifies ease of tuning.
If the majority of ignition timing takes place between 12~15. Set it at 15, not 20, it makes tuning MAPS more of ease of use and makes the rotor style type more efficient, it doesn't work the same way as a DIS in my opinion.


More and more developers are using DIS over distributor CAS for efficiency in spark which many people are claiming increases fuel conservation/efficiency/power.

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

It has nothing to do with sensor type that wasn't the point I was coming across.
Distributor rotor style ignition systems are limited to spark and at the degree where the rotor comes across the wire to feed an electrical charge.
Direct ignition doesn't use a rotor since it uses a box to feed each individual coil. DIS is more efficient and effective at delivering spark at any degree of it's advance or retard in it's cycle.


For a old school style cap and rotor type cas/ distributor it's better to set base timing where your average or ball park ignition timing takes place. It would make the rotor type more efficient at delivering spark. It also simplifies ease of tuning.
If the majority of ignition timing takes place between 12~15. Set it at 15, not 20, it makes tuning MAPS more of ease of use and makes the rotor style type more efficient, it doesn't work the same way as a DIS in my opinion.

Thats makes no sense at all and FYI the S13 SR20DET timing ranges from as high as 36* degree to as low as 7* degree. I dont think you have every seen a stock ignition map because if you have you would have never made the above reply.

Its even greater for the KA24DE which timing ranges from as high as 46* degree to as low as 3* degrees, and for the majority of the time both SR and KA are far above 20* degrees while cruisng, so finding a happy medium is useless, it just dont work that way.

[nosajton]

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

Thats makes no sense at all and FYI the S13 SR20DET timing ranges from as high as 36* degree to as low as 7* degree. I dont think you have every seen a stock ignition map because if you have you would have never made the above reply.

Its even greater for the KA24DE which timing ranges from as high as 46* degree to as low as 3* degrees, and for the majority of the time both SR and KA are far above 20* degrees while cruisng, so finding a happy medium is useless, it just dont work that way.

Exactly why i am done arguing with him, its not worth the effort.

and as for dyno sheets here they are.

this first one was from John in fullerton he's running a ka-t in a datsun 510 he dynoed my tune vs jwt ecu both pulls were at 10psi. notice how smooth it is compared to JWT? that's why i dont give tunes away because there is lots of costs involved in tuning properly, but my tune makes more power and is about 1/5'th of the cost of JWT.





this is my ka-t at 17psi i was running out of turbo up top but torque was killer on this setup. (thats 436wtq)

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by nosajton

Exactly why i am done arguing with him, its not worth the effort.

and as for dyno sheets here they are.

this first one was from John in fullerton he's running a ka-t in a datsun 510 he dynoed my tune vs jwt ecu both pulls were at 10psi. notice how smooth it is compared to JWT? that's why i dont give tunes away because there is lots of costs involved in tuning properly, but my tune makes more power and is about 1/5'th of the cost of JWT.

Smooth like butta!

On the other hand the JWT ECU dyno graph looks telling of a tune that isn't linear interpolated from 0 vacuum to full bost (or anywere in between 0-full but mainly full boost in this case), the choppiness can be from having unlinear AFR curves in a tune and timing but no so much on the timing, similar to what you would expect from a stock ECU's AFR curve which is alot less linear.

P.S. What up with the guage pressure reading on the first tune wiht the JWT ECU it look higher than 10psi or was somehting wrong there.

[nosajton]

I think there was something wrong with the gauge because he said they were both at 10psi cause those are ridiculous numbers for 16psi

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by sr20det0821

i got a e-mance tune and my car ran good but it leaned out. and melted the piston. i know i got enough fuel, but i dont think his tunes are good for people making good hp numbers. i am currently going with the haltech standalone, and i am getting it tuned on a dyno. his tunes are good if you wanna get your car running with what you have, but if you are running high boost like 18-20 pounds then i woulden't recommened him.

I can't speak on behalf of nosajton because I dont know his buisenss but I will say this as a word of advice.

Ask question:
When this tune was made what/was the following;

1) Base fuel pressure was set to what psi for this tune?
*For buyers this is really important to know exactly what your base fuel pressure is (guesstimates can kill or give less than optimal power), most people have WALBRO 255 Lph some people assume that since there using a stock FPR that there base fuel pressure remains stock, this is not the case for a car with healthy wiring and/or rewired fuel pump, this pump will raise your fuel pressure @ 13.5 volts idle/cruise. For the people that do not notice a fuel pressure increase when using a large pump like the WALBRO 255lph I'd be worried about your wiring and the amount of voltage your pump is seeing @ WOT. This goes for thr rare Z32 TT and Q45 fuel pump owners as well to teh same degree .

Just some FYI my Z32 TT and Q45 fuel pumps rasie my base fuel pressure 56psi (no-vacuum) at idle!!!! thats almost a 4 bar fuel pressure system. This alone changes the game dramatically.

The consequences of a tune made at a higher base fuel pressure such as 56psi, then installed into a car with a base of 43psi (is the same as running a tune made for 422cc but you only have 370cc injectors installed and vise versa) and will be lead to catastrophic failure I guarantee it.

2) What voltage was the pump recieving @ WOT?
3) What was the stock pumps Lph rating?
4) What type of injector was this tune made on (mainly this is a latency issue)
5) Was the MAF sensor regrounded?
6) etc etc to many variables but not impossible as long as communication is there

Im just naming a few things that will impact the way a tune works from one car to another, sure there are many more but this are biggies.

Im not talking out my ass neither this is real shit, so take from it what you can and get better results, but as we all know realtime dyno tune is the best but this is not always available or in the budgets of some people.

And some of you reading this "might" think whats the big deal between 12v and 13.5v at idle and WOT, its about ~35Lph for the WALBRO 255, now mind you most S13 I have rewired didn't even pull 12v to the pump on stock wiring, most have ranged in the high 10 - mid 11 volt range which means even less diminishing returns.

[UNISA JECS]

One more thing to complicant things further reguarding base fuel pressure changes, this directly effects your injector latency, more base fuel pressure above the injector rated testing fuel pressure = more latency needed (the injectors reaction is delayed by the higher base fule pressure and need more latency and vise versa for teh opposite), if these are not correct your idle/cruise will be less than optimal.

[nosajton]

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

I can't speak on behalf of nosajton because I dont know his buisenss but I will say this as a word of advice.

Ask question:
When this tune was made what/was the following;

1) Base fuel pressure was set to what psi for this tune?
*For buyers this is really important to know exactly what your base fuel pressure is (guesstimates can kill or give less than optimal power), most people have WALBRO 255 Lph some people assume that since there using a stock FPR that there base fuel pressure remains stock, this is not the case for a car with healthy wiring and/or rewired fuel pump, this pump will raise your fuel pressure @ 13.5 volts idle/cruise. For the people that do not notice a fuel pressure increase when using a large pump like the WALBRO 255lph I'd be worried about your wiring and the amount of voltage your pump is seeing @ WOT. This goes for thr rare Z32 TT and Q45 fuel pump owners as well to teh same degree .

Just some FYI my Z32 TT and Q45 fuel pumps rasie my base fuel pressure 56psi (no-vacuum) at idle!!!! thats almost a 4 bar fuel pressure system. This alone changes the game dramatically.

The consequences of a tune made at a higher base fuel pressure such as 56psi, then installed into a car with a base of 43psi (is the same as running a tune made for 422cc but you only have 370cc injectors installed and vise versa) and will be lead to catastrophic failure I guarantee it.

2) What voltage was the pump recieving @ WOT?
3) What was the stock pumps Lph rating?
4) What type of injector was this tune made on (mainly this is a latency issue)
5) Was the MAF sensor regrounded?
6) etc etc to many variables but not impossible as long as communication is there

Im just naming a few things that will impact the way a tune works from one car to another, sure there are many more but this are biggies.

Im not talking out my ass neither this is real shit, so take from it what you can and get better results, but as we all know realtime dyno tune is the best but this is not always available or in the budgets of some people.

And some of you reading this "might" think whats the big deal between 12v and 13.5v at idle and WOT, its about ~35Lph for the WALBRO 255, now mind you most S13 I have rewired didn't even pull 12v to the pump on stock wiring, most have ranged in the high 10 - mid 11 volt range which means even less diminishing returns.

amen, this guy knows what he's talking about. go get your voltage meter and test the pump voltage while car is idling most s13's w/walbro are around 11v +-0.5v which is fucking scary!

majority of my tunes are set to 3bar with the exception of my msd top feed tunes (50psi) or my 850cc/1000cc tunes which are set to 60psi

remember a tune is only as good as the motor/car its on so if you are missing or have shitty grounds, not enough voltage to the pump, funky fpr, you will have poor results.

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by nosajton

amen, this guy knows what he's talking about. go get your voltage meter and test the pump voltage while car is idling most s13's w/walbro are around 11v +-0.5v which is fucking scary!

Readers, this is still the same regaurdless what fuel pump you use weather it be a walbro or stock pump, these cars usually see 11v +/- .5 and yes that is scary.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

Thats makes no sense at all and FYI the S13 SR20DET timing ranges from as high as 36* degree to as low as 7* degree. I dont think you have every seen a stock ignition map because if you have you would have never made the above reply.

Its even greater for the KA24DE which timing ranges from as high as 46* degree to as low as 3* degrees, and for the majority of the time both SR and KA are far above 20* degrees while cruisng, so finding a happy medium is useless, it just dont work that way.

Meeh your misunderstanding what I'm saying. I know K and CAS values.
What dictates base timing?

I've looked at KA ignition maps and have only seen it as high as 40*~42* in the higher RPM range of 6000 and above RPM.

Base timing on a distributor/cas is usually set for LOAD reasons so why 20* rather than 15* for a boosted KA beats the shit out of me.....
Hell why don't I just set up the distributor at 40BTDC and set my values from that?? That was me just being a smart ass.... You get the point..

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

Meeh your misunderstanding what I'm saying. I know K and CAS values.
What dictates base timing?

I've looked at KA ignition maps and have only seen it as high as 40*~42* in the higher RPM range of 6000 and above RPM.

Base timing on a distributor/cas is usually set for LOAD reasons so why 20* rather than 15* for a boosted KA beats the shit out of me.....
Hell why don't I just set up the distributor at 40BTDC and set my values from that?? That was me just being a smart ass.... You get the point..

Because 20* degrees is what the engine was designed to idle at and this combined with fueling provided the best outcome of a smooth idle and emmissions, and this serves as a refference to mechanically align the distributor to the commands given by the ECU.

I think the reason why you wouldn't want to set the distributor at a ridiculously high setting at idle like 40* and then just reprogram it out to 20* BTDC with the ECU is because at some point the range is limited to a max of 63* degree BTDC. I dont know the full story behind this but im sure im on the right track, BUT WHY THE HELL ASK SUCH A QUESTION AND HURT MY LIL BRAIN...lol Your treading into territory thats not important right now.

They go higher than that, again I really dont think you know to much about how things work in the ECU becasue again these timing values go higher than what you just said and they do so at much lower RPMS than 6,000rpm.

P>S> You need to see a ECU work in real time badly so you can eliminate some of yoru questions or I can see this could go on and on and I am no expert by any means but I know how to tune my own ECU.

The way the ECU calculate all this shit is comlpex, timing, fueling are all based on LOAD/TP (Theoritical Pulsewidth) without being able to see any of this stuff you are gonna be lost. Like your SAFC, if you knew truely or had any expereince in tunning an ECU you would frown down upon a SAFC, really.