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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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10-12-2018, 05:25 PM | #22261 |
Leaky Injector
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What are the vacuum and coolant nipples on the intake manifold made of?
It looks like there is a coating on them that sands off, if the coating is gone will they rust?
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10-12-2018, 09:35 PM | #22262 | ||
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Quote:
https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc2.php Quote:
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10-13-2018, 08:34 AM | #22263 |
Nissanaholic!
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what ecu? if its a standalone just hook up the wideband sensor, input the calibration table into the ecu and your done.
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10-13-2018, 12:23 PM | #22264 |
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10-13-2018, 07:25 PM | #22265 | |
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>Does anyone know where I can order good quality M8x1.25 turbo exhaust housing to dump pipe studs? And are the OEM ones 35mm in length? I read something about steel studs not being cut out for the job due to heat-cycles so Im trying to avoid steel replacement studs. I'll check ACE but I think they'll carry lower grade metal studs (I could be wrong). I couldnt find anything from ARP either.
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10-14-2018, 07:28 AM | #22266 | |
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Quote:
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10-14-2018, 08:55 AM | #22267 | |
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10-15-2018, 04:46 AM | #22269 |
Zilvia Addict
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Not ACE or Lowes et al, NOT THEM. Go to your local FASTENER shop. We have Fastenal and a local guy here(Clarksville Fasteners) that do nothing but bolts, nits, washers, a few things like Kroil(It IS made in Nashville)
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10-15-2018, 05:29 AM | #22270 | |
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Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
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10-15-2018, 03:11 PM | #22271 | |
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if im understanding correctly what you need, FR sport has them for $1.09 a pop: https://frsport.com/frsport-stud-8mm...1-25pitch-stud |
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10-15-2018, 06:35 PM | #22273 | |
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10-21-2018, 02:27 PM | #22276 |
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Question for those with z32/r32 rear drums. I installed them today and the hub is hitting is just barely hitting the anchor and spring perches. I have the PBM ebrake spacer, so I dunno if that is pushing it out too far or what. Any clues?
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10-21-2018, 04:05 PM | #22278 |
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I thought so too but looking again, they should be the thinner ones. Its got the nub and the hole isnt tapped like the one on the left.
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10-22-2018, 06:52 PM | #22280 |
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So I own a rhd silvia s13 which comes with 5 bolt rear axles/output shafts and a jdm vlsd diff. I have a welded diff out of a us 240sx that has 3x2 output shafts that I would like to install.
Is it possible for me to install the 240sx welded diff and use the jdm 5 bolt axles output shafts with the 5 bolt axles? |
10-22-2018, 08:46 PM | #22281 |
240sx with sr20det no spark
Hello all. I have what I hope are not silly questions (know very little about these engines/cars) Helping my son to troubleshoot. He swapped his ECU for a Power FC. It ran great for a couple of weeks, then lost spark. I've read a ton about no spark situations and checked everything people recommended. All looks good except when checking pins on the ECU, several pins, including the ECU ground, have good ground, but also 8 volts?!? Might that cause no spark and/or messed up the ECU?? Also, backup power (pin 46) shows 12+ volts (not constant), but ECU power(pin 47) shows nothing?!? Could that keep the ECU from "saving" information? Thanks for your help. (Nevermind, I think I posted in the wrong area. I'll repost in Engine Tech).
Last edited by cynabel; 10-22-2018 at 09:58 PM.. Reason: Wrong place I think. |
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10-23-2018, 10:50 AM | #22282 |
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What clutch master cylinder is everyone using? Everytime I use an exedy replacement or some autozone trash I constantly have issues.. opinions on the wildwood clutch master?
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10-24-2018, 06:54 AM | #22283 |
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Centric, ie, Stop Tech makes great brake parts. Theirs is bored at like .020 over OE with brand new oversized parts...which makes stopping really nice
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10-31-2018, 06:40 PM | #22284 |
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Hi friends,
I am in dire need of someone that understands how 3-piece wheels work (l0l). I am currently working with 18x10 +13 (4.0" Outer Lip, 6.0" Inner) VS-XX rear wheels and it's improperly sized for the stock S14 body. Mind you I bought the car with the wheels already in place. The issue is that the rear lip protrudes a solid 0.5-0.75" past the fender; the tire sits in such a way that the lip is the post protruding piece of the wheel. I am trying to figure out what specs (lip and inner barrel) would achieve a wheel that sits flush with the fender. Ideally I could reuse either the 4" lip or 6" inner barrel. My logic thinks I can get a 3" lip and that should do, but would changing the inner barrel to 0.5" shorter make a difference or is that just from the suspension side and outside will be unaffected?
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11-01-2018, 05:50 AM | #22285 | |
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Quote:
http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
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11-01-2018, 06:07 AM | #22286 | |
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11-01-2018, 06:51 AM | #22287 | |
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Quote:
For a 3 piece wheel, the center disk is static, and the sizes of the barrel and lip will effect width and offset. Your assumption is correct though, a reduction in lip size will bring the outside edge in by that amount with no other changes. 1" is roughly 25mm, so you'd end up with a 9" +38 offset (if my math is correct). Might have to play around with a calculator to verify though. |
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11-02-2018, 06:17 AM | #22288 | |
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1" = 33mm Your HUB surface is your center line. Offset as in a positive number works as follows: STOCK SE wheel: 16" x 6.5" +42mm This is a battle sunk wheel. It is about 2" inside the wheel well and fender line. The front surface of the wheel is roughly 4" from the hub surface Like I said, use the calculator, and look at the picture. DO THIS UNTIL YOU UNDERSTAND. You are smart, you will figure it out, then suddenly wheel fitment, A disc, B disc, and 0 Disc will suddenly be easy to figure out Hint: 0 disc is perfect center, A disc is weak, B disc is strong
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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