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09-24-2018, 05:46 AM | #392 |
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Started seam welding and cage work this weekend. This car is pretty beat up, and the sound deadening really didn't want to come up, so there's a lot of hammering and wire wheeling to do.
I plated all the way around the strut towers. It was a major pain haha. First bar in! I understand now why most people don't do these, and pro drift cars just lop off everything behind here and use tube. This angle is silly.
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09-27-2018, 04:27 PM | #393 |
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More seam welding, more wire-wheeling, messed up my first two attempts at main hoops. I think I've got it down now. Good thing DOM is reasonably cheap.
Oh and I found the only rust hole.
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10-02-2018, 05:51 AM | #395 | |
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Just received one of the very last DFRT bumpers produced. The line is now discontinued and this was one of the last three to ever enter the States. A big thanks to John Thomas of Corner 3 Motorsports for letting me snag this thing. I got the dry carbon canards as well, I just didn't feel like unwrapping them yet. Joe and I traded crossmembers, and with some modifying he got the rack to fit. I'm going to be building a tubular one with a 350Z rack after all. I think I'll produce a few if I can gather some interest.
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10-24-2018, 06:14 AM | #397 | |
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Took some time yesterday to finishing up the seam welding in the engine bay and wheel wells. Then I started in on the firewall, after which I'm debating on going through the entire underside... You can see the difference between the 220v welder I'm using now and the 120v I used a year or so ago, which is frustrating but oh well haha. Also bent my main hoop with some help from a friend last weekend. It's not in it's final position in the pictures as I still have to remove my center roof brace so it can sit as close to the roof as it should. Reinforced my clutch pedal just because.
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10-24-2018, 08:07 AM | #398 |
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I may pull my pedal this winter and re-inforce it. Doesn't seem like it would ever hurt.
Also, if you plan on wire tucking the car, make patch panels for the triangles behind the strut towers. Helps keep things much cleaner. |
10-24-2018, 12:13 PM | #399 |
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Definitely on the to-do list, thanks. All the wiring will come through where the factory engine harness does, and all the rest of the holes will be patched. Aftermarket heater core going in and that’s about it!
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10-31-2018, 07:44 AM | #400 |
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Did a mock up of my rad and intercooler. It looks like everything is going to work as I envisioned it. Drawing some inspiration from the time attack guys here, but I should be able to duct the intercooler/rad/oil cooler from the front bumper and out the hood. Then I'll be able to "tune" the amount of air that actually gets into the engine bay via bumper blockers. We'll see how complicated it gets as I make more progress. I'm going to put the mockup engine in and get a rough idea of turbo placement this weekend.
Had to say goodbye to this.
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11-04-2018, 07:21 PM | #402 |
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Haha thanks. It's not quite v-mount as the rad and intercooler are tilted the same way, but the same concept in that everything is vented out the hood.
Made some small progress tonight. Got the mockup engine and bellhousing in. In case you forgot what it looks like in the bay. I could actually push it back a little farther if needed, which is nice to know. The radiator, oil cooler, and intercooler will all be stacked like this. This is definitely not their final position, as they all will move up and be slightly less leaned forward than this, but it's a good mockup. I'm really, really excited, as this is almost exactly how I envisioned it. I do wish the turbo was a little smaller dimensionally, as it's going to basically be smack in the middle of the air duct, but oh well. Thanks to the GKtech sway bar's ability to be clocked, I can position it so it's out of the way of everything.
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11-17-2018, 03:48 PM | #403 |
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This is hard, but fun!
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11-26-2018, 05:56 AM | #406 |
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Thanks bruha.
It's called concentric twisting. This is my first multi-layer harness. There are 69 conductors in all. Not perfect due to a couple of factors, but pretty awesome for what it is! Main branch with V25: New vs the old I was "copying": I also started a three layer ignition harness the other day. Needless to say, all the wiring in my S13 is going to be handled like this as much as possible. It's very interesting planning it all out and seeing what can be done. A lot of the times it's easier to run the larger wiring (e-fans, etc) in their own separate harness. I'm really looking forward to laying it all out!
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11-26-2018, 04:11 PM | #408 |
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It’s basically negligible. For every 100cm of wire, it comes out to 90cm after twist. So 10% more weight for all the benefits is well worth it.
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01-17-2020, 05:39 AM | #409 |
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Wow, haven't updated this in over a year. I still have this thing, haha. Just now getting back to a point where I can work on it again. I'll be acquiring a MIG welder in the coming months and can finally finish up the fabrication on the front end. Also considering buying one of Chairslayer's pre-bent and notched cages so I can actually get that done. So updates soon!
I've been up to a lot of this lately.
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01-18-2020, 08:58 AM | #412 | |
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I’m using m22759 spec wire, so it it special, but you can do it with any kind of wire if you want. I will say that wire with rubberized outer coating is really frustrating to do this with, as it really grips the other wire when it bends, and doesn’t like to stay twisted.
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01-18-2020, 08:59 PM | #413 | |
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Quote:
I don't think that you'll have a problem with low voltage jumping, or at least not a noticeable one, but on the other hand, we ground things and tune and love and hone and polish and wire and all that to get fractions of a horsepower. Many harnesses cannot be twisted, and though the voltages and frequencies are totally different the classic example are plug wires, which must cross cleanly but not wrap around each other in order to avoid inductive crossfire. In my experience twisted wires in harnesses are very rare, and are usually totally dumb constant voltage wires that only go very short distances, ie. console light or lighter power, and it's usually just two wires, no matter how large the harness is. Things that are susceptible to interference usually have strait wires tied into tight bundles, and if they're very worried, a grounded sheath over the wires, under the outer loom. Just thoughts and observations, not saying it's wrong or to change it. It certainly does look good. |
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01-20-2020, 08:36 AM | #414 | |
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Plug wires are a special case.
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01-20-2020, 04:34 PM | #415 | |
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Quote:
I realized some of the shielded looms I'm thinking of are also high voltage, like diesel injectors, so I suppose the shield over the whole loom is to keep the interference in, not out. Do you have a background in electronics or wiring? I'd be interested in the jigs or techniques you're using - I enjoy wiring, but you're way over my head. |
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01-24-2020, 12:39 PM | #416 | |
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02-05-2020, 05:44 AM | #418 |
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Thanks!
Been working on getting the garage re-organized and cleaned up so I can give these two things some attention again.
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05-30-2020, 09:29 AM | #419 |
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