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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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06-04-2012, 04:26 PM | #122 | ||
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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that's what I've seen used in YT videos and what I have on the front of the car Quote:
on another note have any tips on masking/painting door handles - maybe pics? I don't really want to remove them car will be a weekend/track slut after all |
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06-04-2012, 05:57 PM | #123 |
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What's a decent priced spray gun to hook up to my air compressor? Also I want to paint my whole car pearl white. I was thinking 3 coats of primer (maybe more if it doesn't look solid), 3 or 4 coats of base with pearl, and 3 or 4 coats of clear. Is that too many coats all together? Of course I'll be dry sanding the primer and wet sanding after. Also what's the best type paint to use? I'm not looking for a show quality finish since I'll be painting my Daily Driver.
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06-04-2012, 07:41 PM | #124 | ||
Zilvia Junkie
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are you wanting to clear coat the hood of apply base coat? If just clear coat wet sand the hood with 800-1000 grit paper, clean with wax and grease remover and tack rag, then spray your clear. For base coat, follow same steps as painting a car on here |
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06-04-2012, 10:07 PM | #126 |
Zilvia Junkie
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can any one show pictures and steps used to fix common flaws while paint. (running paint, dirt, fish eyes....)
if you notice a flaw in between coats, do you try to look whole car over for flaws and fix between each coat??. ideally you would like to not have problems, but do you only have your flash period(8 hours) to fix them. If you are approaching the end of your flash time would you spray a 2nd coat to a majority of the car, rather than have to sand the whole car/clean/tack rag the car. if you do make repairs: how would you clean the area to continue painting. sorry for all the questions. thanks in advance |
06-05-2012, 03:48 AM | #127 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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If removing the paint layers use 180 grit on a DA... It will take you forever to hand sand or wet sand all the layers off. Remove the paint layers before working body work or priming |
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06-05-2012, 11:39 AM | #128 | |
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alright this is an old project picture to use as my example: the black arrows is what i was talking about with your masking. Notice i am using masking place closest to the paint and then plastic after it to cover the areas not being painted. This is to prevent wet paint from being sprayed onto the plastic sheeting. When the wet coat is sprayed onto plastic and drys it flakes off. The paper keeps this from happening. The white arrows is where i masked with paper the areas that i knew was going to get a lot of paint applied. The red arrow is where i was in a hurry and just threw some plastic over the wheels. Some of the base coat overspray flaked off when i was clear coating and caused a good bit of sanding and buffing for me. Hope this helps this is the only picture i can find with door handles being masked, most of the time i pull them out. Mask it tightly and then trim with a razor |
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06-05-2012, 11:48 AM | #129 |
Nissanaholic!
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Manonegra you really need to pull the wing off- whatever it takes. You will really regret it if you don't. I would try to get a dremel tool with a cutting wheel in there to lop it off or just really yank on it and pull the stud out with pliers. It's easy enough to fiberglass or epoxy another stud back in.
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06-05-2012, 02:54 PM | #130 | |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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it does, thanks
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but at the same time it's already taking way longer than I intended to it was meant to be a quick job to get the track car to be one color next thing I know I'm removing mirrors, trim, weatherstripping, etc.... |
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06-05-2012, 06:57 PM | #132 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Correct , since your going with a color, scuff sand with 320 grit or finer sand paper until the surface is dull looking. Prime sand again with 320 grit clean seal base coat and clear. If you run into any issues just post on here and I'll walk you through it
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06-06-2012, 11:44 AM | #133 |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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On the topic of paint guns while contemplating a HF gun to shoot primer
I came upon this (long ass fuck) interesting video: cliff notes: cheap HF paint guns can be modded to perform like nice expensive guns by: - getting o-rings for the cup - taking the gun apart and cleaning/removing the cheap silicone sealer used on various threads that can potentially chip off and clog the gun - applying teflon tape to all the threaded parts upon reassembly. any thoughts on this? I may do this on a the cheap primer gun I plan on picking up. |
06-06-2012, 12:35 PM | #134 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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06-08-2012, 11:50 AM | #135 |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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I stopped by the HF by work last night and picked up their 2 gun kit
HVLP Spray Gun Kit sure enough the quality of the gun isn't all that great I spent a little time today at work using a veritex wheel and taps clean up threads and obvious burrs found thought the gun installed the 1.8 needle and nozzle in preparation for primer already the 'feel' of the gun has improved |
06-13-2012, 11:53 AM | #136 |
Ok I did my primer but I guess I have these little marks in it what grade sand paper should I use to get that out. New to the whole paint game so sorry if this is a stupid question.
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06-19-2012, 05:58 AM | #139 |
Big up, mate! I have been meaning to step into the world of auto body/paint for years now and I'm finally following through this summer.
My knowledge is limited to using the miracle system for pulls and dings. I'll be going through your posts as I go along. Any chance of some youtube videos? Thanks for all the tips/walkthroughs! |
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06-19-2012, 07:58 AM | #140 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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06-19-2012, 09:26 AM | #141 |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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question(s):
I'm blocking the build up primer on the car and pieces right now. How smooth do they need to be? smooth to the touch or also to close inspection? wet sanding with a foam block and 320 grit btw also, I've read that a sealer coat of primer is optional. Is it? What's to be gained/lost by shooting base over the blocked car? thanks in advance |
06-19-2012, 09:54 AM | #142 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
Are you using lacquer primer? Or like a epoxy primer?
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06-19-2012, 09:58 AM | #143 | |
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No........... It...........Does........... Not............ base coat is not used for filling imperfections. If fact it brings out all the surface issues some colors are worse about it than others. Last edited by buentellomma; 06-19-2012 at 11:06 AM.. |
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06-19-2012, 11:17 AM | #144 | ||
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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the panels are smooth to the touch but if I look close I can see some 'orange peel' in some spots I will spend some time but won't go crazy trying to get the panels perfect since it is a track project I think I will shoot a coat of sealer. thanks again |
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08-11-2012, 06:58 PM | #150 |
Zilvia Junkie
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How to buff clear coat:
Step 1: after your clear coat has cured for more than 8 hours you can begin sanding out orange peel/ trash/ runs/ sags. Step 2: there are two ways to sand the clear coat, wet sanding and dry D/A sanding. On this bed cover i did both but i finished with wet sanding. When wet sanding keep water on the surface at all time to ease in the removal of clear coat. If your wet paper does not have enough water it will begin to clog up. Start sanding with 1000grit until the surface is smooth then go back over it with 1200 grit then 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit. Use a 45* angle when sanding then when switching to the next grit go in the opposite direction. This will help with removing the course grit sanding marks. Step 3: Once you have removed the surface issues, you are now ready to use rubbing compound and a buffer. I like to use 3m and a 3m waffle buffing pad. Step 4: A good rule to follow is only buff a square foot at a time. I like to lay out about a foot long strip of compound. Step 5: Take the pad and spread out the compound so it doesnt sling out everywhere. Step 6: Once you start buffing keep the buffer moving side to side and dont let it sit in once spot for too long. This will heat up the surface and you will burn through the clear coat. Step 7: this is what it looks like if you buff one square foot at a time. Buffing like this you are less likely to miss spots. Step 8: Once your part is buffed it is ready to go. Polish compound is optional sometimes ill use it depending on the color. |
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