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04-15-2011, 02:10 PM | #631 | |
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04-15-2011, 08:22 PM | #633 |
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if he built intakes like on that e30 I linked then could run dual map or maf's on the intake pipes down to the filters. people build itb setups for the ka without airboxes, I don't know what they do for it though.
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04-15-2011, 08:47 PM | #634 | |
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ok actually get this itb setup
HARROP | Engine it looks a little more thought out, has better injector locations, and comes with plates to build intake boxes out of. a guy on ls1 tech posted this: Quote:
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04-15-2011, 11:38 PM | #635 | |
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Slight update... I'm officially powered by 240-volt in my garage now. I also hooked up my regulator/lubricator, lines and all of that crap tonight on my compressor. So I'm ready to rock on this bitch now! Stay tuned for some updates next week. |
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04-28-2011, 10:53 AM | #638 |
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The man, the myth, the faux hawk. I'm not sure if you can tell from this AWESOME iphone picture, but he's sandblasting out the remnants of seam sealer I'm sure an update is inbound, he's done a lot of work, but just been really busy with everything, |
04-28-2011, 11:06 AM | #640 |
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That sure doesnt look like a sandblaster to me but then again the awesome clarity of that pic is to awesome for bad eyes to see....lol
Removing old seam sealer is a hell of an idea though, mine looks like shit and could definitely use to be redone! |
04-28-2011, 11:10 AM | #641 |
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Looks kind of like a dremel. I feel your pain on the task of removing seam sealer, wire wheeling the holes, welding, then grinding everything flush though. I spent so much time on that ugh. Looks good when done though for sure.
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04-28-2011, 11:12 AM | #642 |
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He's got gloves on. He's got this, BRO.
Or...(and I'll let Toby explain this more if he ever takes a break from building dope custom stuff for people) he has some recapturing tip on there to where there is basically no dust/extra sandblasting media in the air, it directs it at exactly the point you are sandblasting, and only there. I would liken the use of it more to a drill I guess. I can't find a picture of it with the recapturing system. I don't think it's a snap-on piece (like the sandblaster itself), so I don't know what to search for on google. Last edited by kyles1988; 04-28-2011 at 02:41 PM.. |
04-28-2011, 08:00 PM | #645 | |
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geo metro... 3 cylinder..... broadfield style???? ...yes????... win????? |
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04-29-2011, 09:49 AM | #647 |
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i guess he has the hot spot attachment like this Siphon-Fed Speed Blaster
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04-30-2011, 12:35 PM | #649 |
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A little bit of an update, but nothing over the top. After 5 weeks of doing nothing, I finally got a chance to get my ass in the bay and start prepping for welding. The standard grinding of all of the holes to bare metal on both sides.
I also had the slightest bit of surface rust causing cracks in some areas of the seam sealer. So I decided I would remove all of the seam sealer and inspect it, then take care of any trouble spots. Naturally I used a flat blade screw driver to peal away the old seam sealer. I had some surface rust underneath in several spots... as you can see on the top seam: To quickly remove the surface rust effectively and easily, I used a Speed Blaster sand blaster. I also have the Hot Spot re-collection bag to help collect the media. The other bonus is that the rubber tips that come with the Hot Spot allow you to blast small spots without getting media everywhere. You simply apply a lot of pressure to the surface when blasting and it doesn't allow media to creep out around the edges of the tip opening. This picture demonstrates the difference: Then the finished results: Since I'm doing a tucked radiator, I also took this opportunity to shave the old radiator mounts: Battery tray removed and the area underneath opened up to weld in new metal: The previous owner also had the OEM SR side mount intercooler... so the area was hacked out to accommodate it. I had made a fiberglass plate that covered that entire area and my crankcase breather mounted to it. So it was completely finished off on my old setup. However, I won't have anything there with the V8, so it will also get fresh metal welded in there: I also had a little bit of surface rust where the shock tower and top rail meet and are spot welded to a top plate. So I drilled out the spot welds with the proper bit, then used a cutoff wheel so I could peel back the area and gain access to the rusted area. I had this issue on both sides of the car. So I prepped the metal by grinding it down bare so the rust was completely gone: Since this area has to be welded back in place, I can't just spray it with rust inhibitor, then primer, paint etc... because it will just burn up. So I sprayed the area with weld thru primer. This stuff does just what the name implies: So now when it's time to weld that back down, the primer will stay intact and protect the bare metal from corrosion again. Then seam seal the area back up and it should be good to go for years to come. |
04-30-2011, 12:58 PM | #650 |
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whats the name of the weld through primer and were did u get it? im going to strip my bay and the inside of the vehicle to bare metal in a few days.
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04-30-2011, 01:09 PM | #651 | |
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Make sure to read the instructions as you can not go over this primer with filler or other top coats. So you need to make sure to remove any exposed weld thru prime after welding. |
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04-30-2011, 01:34 PM | #652 |
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Hey Toby, you may think about some sort of cold air intake on tha driverside sidemount area. I can't remember what type of intake setup you are planning on going with, but I ran a 4in intake to a 4inch K&N filter and I am having some IAT temp issues with my setup. Planning on building a cold air box this week, but then again I'm not running coated longtubes either. Just a thought.
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04-30-2011, 02:13 PM | #653 | |
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04-30-2011, 04:11 PM | #654 |
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Great progress, and thanks for taking pics so the kids know the 'right' way to prep a bay. I always try to get the prep done in a day, so I never take pics each step.
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04-30-2011, 04:32 PM | #655 |
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Yeah, so far I've only been getting an hour or two here and there to work on it. So taking the time to take pictures isn't really slowing me down more than the slow speed I'm already going. Now for my job, yeah, there is no way in hell I'm taking the time to take pictures of running wires, building enclosures, installing speakers etc. Unless of course it's some $20,000 setup, then yeah, I'll take pics.
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05-03-2011, 10:25 AM | #657 | |
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Damon, your car better be there too! Toby, that bay prep looks great! That little speed blaster looks like it makes things a lot easier, I'm thinking about pickin one up along with the attatchment. |
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05-03-2011, 05:27 PM | #658 | |
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05-03-2011, 06:12 PM | #659 |
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I was reading your previous post bout the intake. If you get the stock ls3 intake ported, the FAST intake wont net you much if anything.
Ive got a ported ls3 intake on my gto along with ls3 heads on my ls2 and after seeing the FAST not netting anyone much of a gain over a ported ls3 intake. Porting the ls3 intake is the way to go if you dont wanna drop $800+ on a intake. |
05-05-2011, 08:11 PM | #660 | |
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The new FAST for the LS3 isn't gaining anything compared to what the LS7 fast is. A well ported stock manifold is the way to go Toby, the new 102mm FAST for the LS3 gained 5-7whp over the stock manifold. |
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chase bays, ls3, s13, sikky, toby broadfield |
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