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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-09-2008, 12:29 PM | #271 | |
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are u talking about a safc? cuz i have a z32 maf with his rom tune but i'm not using a safc and wont be |
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08-12-2008, 12:34 PM | #273 |
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2in 2out if, it's tuned for a z32 mafs
FusionR240sx, I can remove that for you free of charge, send me the bin, then you burn it. Or, if you send me the chips i'll re-burn then send it back. If the chips are OTP chips, I'll have to sell you my chips with your tune burned. Special Zilvia Price for the chips.
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08-13-2008, 12:55 AM | #274 |
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Serious question for emance...
You sold my boy Tony a tune with timing clocked at 20BTDC. His cas is set at 20, he is using an OBD1 ecu for his OBD2 engine. Why the fuck is the timing so advanced? His boosted KA24det should be at about 12~15 degrees of timing not 20..... You told him that 20 degrees was fine? What the fuck is up with that? Do you know how hot plugs are with that advancement under boost? He's running 16 seconds in the quarter mile and having misfire issues.... Whats the deal with that?
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08-13-2008, 11:17 PM | #276 |
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This shithead scammed me out of $55 for a ka24de ecu last year. I shipped him that shit and he never payed me. You are a piece of shit Jason...nobody trust this cum dumpster and his shit tunes.
I wish I saw this thread earlier so I could've exposed this cock bag. |
08-14-2008, 12:54 AM | #277 | |
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i got my ECU tuned by jason from emance. i pm'd him on ka-t, and then sent him my sohc ECU with a paper of what i have done. im pretty sure it was only a week or 2 turn around time. and i think it was something like $85 even. he socketed and tuned it for me.
i got the ecu back in the same condition i sent it. i hooked it back up and then it took me a few days to get the in/out settings right on my apexi AFC neo. but anyway lets get to the point. when i figured out the apexi afc, the tune was awesome. (afc is running with no corrections at all, just had to get the mafs settings right, nothing to do with jasons tune) before getting the emance tune, i was simply running 4 or 5* retarded base timing at the distributor. this compared to the emance tune was like night and day. the car actually pulls hard now and i havent even turned the boost all the way up to what i told him id be running. also he raised the rev limits and removed the speed limiters for me although i havent tested them yet. overall im very pleased with the service. i dont think you can do much better for 85! sure it didnt come with any cool stickers or anything, but i DID get everything i paid for. i dont know what kind of experiences all of you had, but mine was a good one. i think i dealt with him about a couple months ago Quote:
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08-14-2008, 01:34 AM | #278 | |
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mine was $135... and i had to get it installed at my friends work. and i don't think my speed limiter was removed. cuz i cut out at 117 |
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08-14-2008, 02:01 AM | #279 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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hey vince i think you misunderstood me i meant to say 20 base timing its at 13-15 timing in boost car traps at 101(spining 1st and with a 2.40 60ft, soft launch) so im more than happy with that just im a newb at rwd launching for now my Experiances with jason are nothing but good when he does respond sent me numerous chips b/c my shitty ass top feeds before the tune im running now seems to be rock solid ~14 part throttle, 11's in boost car drives like stock besides the rich lift off(mabe longer maf pipe or bov problem) |
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08-14-2008, 10:06 PM | #280 | |
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Your R/T times weren't that bad though so either I think the tuning is a little off, or your clutch is major slippage.... Either that or your VLSD might be more li8ke a open diff. I'm NA and am running low 15's, to high 14's depending on the weather,air temperature, and my R/T which is anywhere between 1.8~7.5 seconds at most.. I would of thought that your car would of ran much better times with your set up...
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08-14-2008, 10:19 PM | #281 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I think my i must heat my tires up and launch harder
(was affriad to do a full burnout with brakes) My 2nd run was 14.188 @ 101 with a 2.44 60 ft with 2.2 or 2.0 60fts ill be mid 13's easily as u can see in the videos im basially not launching hard at all YouTube - Tony's s14 turbo 10psi ka24de-t |
08-14-2008, 11:27 PM | #282 | |
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lol thats what i figured.
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that 101mph trap is good for mid 13s brotha
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08-15-2008, 11:04 AM | #283 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
check http://www.ka-t.org/s14_walbro_rewire.php for more info. people are very fast to blame a tune for all their problems. also if you think you're running high boost or I cannot tune for high boost, these are some 30psi pulls on my car. im pulling 7.2 1/8'ths at 105mph. they're a little dark but gets my point across. 500 whp chevy truck with nitrous http://www.youtube.com/v/efjHwcCeIhk mujstang gt with boltons bogged out of the hole http://www.youtube.com/v/nZwoqGN-y_c golf gti w/400whp http://www.youtube.com/v/QG6JA4QMcts and here's Eric (easye) running a 12.6 ET with a gt2860rs and my tune. he's crazy he pulled his wastegate hose and let it boost to 18psi. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=21263565 Last edited by nosajton; 08-15-2008 at 01:20 PM.. Reason: videos |
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08-15-2008, 11:08 AM | #284 | ||
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
i told him to set his BASE timing to 20degrees which is stock because my tune retards his timing 0.75degrees per psi of boost. misfire can be a number of things including improper plug gap, plugs, coil, wires there is too many variables. Quote:
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08-15-2008, 11:13 AM | #285 |
Zilvia Junkie
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08-15-2008, 07:54 PM | #286 | |
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I was only informing basic information that I was told. It also wasn't that in depth. So I apologize for talking a head of myself, since Tony and I spoke briefly for 15 minutes about his set up. I do know eccs tuning. Fact is unless I get into selling chip sets myself tuner-pro, and a eprom burner or anything of that nature, programming is pointless for me. An SAFC is actually good for real time tuning on the dyno and still to date nor you , JWT, PDM, Enthalapy has beat my NA dyno tuning to date for a NA application, you can count back as far as ten years if you would like and no one to date can surpass my simple tuning logic. Thats truth and thats relevant. I'm not hating on you in general, but alot of people claim your customer service is bullshit. If you are going to run a business be a little more discrete. Don't hate the player, hate the game.....
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08-15-2008, 11:21 PM | #287 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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bro i could give 2 shits about my REP on a online forum. i try to offer a affordable alternative to JWT/Enthalpy to help the average 240 owner. can i make everyone happy? absolutely not but i try. i just hate how people lash out on me talking shit and they dont really know what they're talking about like if you really do know about eccs, you probably wouldnt of opened your mouth about the base timing set at 20degrees. |
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08-16-2008, 02:09 AM | #288 | |
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Fact is I have spent $300 on a dyno, $150 on an SAFC 2 and out of pocket I delivered positive results with my so called ghettofied/archaic/bullshit tuning, to the community. Thats free carbon copy information that I spent money on and didn't charge a single individual for. When the fuck are you going to give the kick me down BIN files.......... Especially since you think myself or anyone else doesn't know shit about your tunes unless there forking out the dinero. When the fuck are you going to kick down a real dynomometer result for your tuning to show it's even worthy of buying..... THATS MY FUCKING POINT!
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08-16-2008, 03:30 AM | #289 | |
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Both the SR20DET Camshaft Position Sensor/Direct/Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) and the KA24DE Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)/Distributor system are adjustable. The SR20DET is adjusted threw the Camshaft Position Sensor. The KA24DE is adjustable threw the Crankshaft Position Sensor. |
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08-16-2008, 09:43 AM | #290 | |
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Distributor rotor style ignition systems are limited to spark and at the degree where the rotor comes across the wire to feed an electrical charge. Direct ignition doesn't use a rotor since it uses a box to feed each individual coil. DIS is more efficient and effective at delivering spark at any degree of it's advance or retard in it's cycle. For a old school style cap and rotor type cas/ distributor it's better to set base timing where your average or ball park ignition timing takes place. It would make the rotor type more efficient at delivering spark. It also simplifies ease of tuning. If the majority of ignition timing takes place between 12~15. Set it at 15, not 20, it makes tuning MAPS more of ease of use and makes the rotor style type more efficient, it doesn't work the same way as a DIS in my opinion. More and more developers are using DIS over distributor CAS for efficiency in spark which many people are claiming increases fuel conservation/efficiency/power.
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08-16-2008, 10:03 AM | #291 | |
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Its even greater for the KA24DE which timing ranges from as high as 46* degree to as low as 3* degrees, and for the majority of the time both SR and KA are far above 20* degrees while cruisng, so finding a happy medium is useless, it just dont work that way. |
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08-16-2008, 10:17 AM | #292 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
and as for dyno sheets here they are. this first one was from John in fullerton he's running a ka-t in a datsun 510 he dynoed my tune vs jwt ecu both pulls were at 10psi. notice how smooth it is compared to JWT? that's why i dont give tunes away because there is lots of costs involved in tuning properly, but my tune makes more power and is about 1/5'th of the cost of JWT. this is my ka-t at 17psi i was running out of turbo up top but torque was killer on this setup. (thats 436wtq) |
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08-16-2008, 11:01 AM | #293 | |
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On the other hand the JWT ECU dyno graph looks telling of a tune that isn't linear interpolated from 0 vacuum to full bost (or anywere in between 0-full but mainly full boost in this case), the choppiness can be from having unlinear AFR curves in a tune and timing but no so much on the timing, similar to what you would expect from a stock ECU's AFR curve which is alot less linear. P.S. What up with the guage pressure reading on the first tune wiht the JWT ECU it look higher than 10psi or was somehting wrong there. |
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08-16-2008, 12:40 PM | #295 | |
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Ask question: When this tune was made what/was the following; 1) Base fuel pressure was set to what psi for this tune? *For buyers this is really important to know exactly what your base fuel pressure is (guesstimates can kill or give less than optimal power), most people have WALBRO 255 Lph some people assume that since there using a stock FPR that there base fuel pressure remains stock, this is not the case for a car with healthy wiring and/or rewired fuel pump, this pump will raise your fuel pressure @ 13.5 volts idle/cruise. For the people that do not notice a fuel pressure increase when using a large pump like the WALBRO 255lph I'd be worried about your wiring and the amount of voltage your pump is seeing @ WOT. This goes for thr rare Z32 TT and Q45 fuel pump owners as well to teh same degree . Just some FYI my Z32 TT and Q45 fuel pumps rasie my base fuel pressure 56psi (no-vacuum) at idle!!!! thats almost a 4 bar fuel pressure system. This alone changes the game dramatically. The consequences of a tune made at a higher base fuel pressure such as 56psi, then installed into a car with a base of 43psi (is the same as running a tune made for 422cc but you only have 370cc injectors installed and vise versa) and will be lead to catastrophic failure I guarantee it. 2) What voltage was the pump recieving @ WOT? 3) What was the stock pumps Lph rating? 4) What type of injector was this tune made on (mainly this is a latency issue) 5) Was the MAF sensor regrounded? 6) etc etc to many variables but not impossible as long as communication is there Im just naming a few things that will impact the way a tune works from one car to another, sure there are many more but this are biggies. Im not talking out my ass neither this is real shit, so take from it what you can and get better results, but as we all know realtime dyno tune is the best but this is not always available or in the budgets of some people. And some of you reading this "might" think whats the big deal between 12v and 13.5v at idle and WOT, its about ~35Lph for the WALBRO 255, now mind you most S13 I have rewired didn't even pull 12v to the pump on stock wiring, most have ranged in the high 10 - mid 11 volt range which means even less diminishing returns. Last edited by UNISA JECS; 08-16-2008 at 02:10 PM.. |
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08-16-2008, 01:33 PM | #296 |
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One more thing to complicant things further reguarding base fuel pressure changes, this directly effects your injector latency, more base fuel pressure above the injector rated testing fuel pressure = more latency needed (the injectors reaction is delayed by the higher base fule pressure and need more latency and vise versa for teh opposite), if these are not correct your idle/cruise will be less than optimal.
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08-16-2008, 01:36 PM | #297 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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amen, this guy knows what he's talking about. go get your voltage meter and test the pump voltage while car is idling most s13's w/walbro are around 11v +-0.5v which is fucking scary! majority of my tunes are set to 3bar with the exception of my msd top feed tunes (50psi) or my 850cc/1000cc tunes which are set to 60psi remember a tune is only as good as the motor/car its on so if you are missing or have shitty grounds, not enough voltage to the pump, funky fpr, you will have poor results. |
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08-16-2008, 01:40 PM | #298 |
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Readers, this is still the same regaurdless what fuel pump you use weather it be a walbro or stock pump, these cars usually see 11v +/- .5 and yes that is scary.
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08-16-2008, 04:27 PM | #299 | |
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Meeh your misunderstanding what I'm saying. I know K and CAS values. What dictates base timing? I've looked at KA ignition maps and have only seen it as high as 40*~42* in the higher RPM range of 6000 and above RPM. Base timing on a distributor/cas is usually set for LOAD reasons so why 20* rather than 15* for a boosted KA beats the shit out of me..... Hell why don't I just set up the distributor at 40BTDC and set my values from that?? That was me just being a smart ass.... You get the point..
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08-16-2008, 05:09 PM | #300 | |
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I think the reason why you wouldn't want to set the distributor at a ridiculously high setting at idle like 40* and then just reprogram it out to 20* BTDC with the ECU is because at some point the range is limited to a max of 63* degree BTDC. I dont know the full story behind this but im sure im on the right track, BUT WHY THE HELL ASK SUCH A QUESTION AND HURT MY LIL BRAIN...lol Your treading into territory thats not important right now. They go higher than that, again I really dont think you know to much about how things work in the ECU becasue again these timing values go higher than what you just said and they do so at much lower RPMS than 6,000rpm. P>S> You need to see a ECU work in real time badly so you can eliminate some of yoru questions or I can see this could go on and on and I am no expert by any means but I know how to tune my own ECU. The way the ECU calculate all this shit is comlpex, timing, fueling are all based on LOAD/TP (Theoritical Pulsewidth) without being able to see any of this stuff you are gonna be lost. Like your SAFC, if you knew truely or had any expereince in tunning an ECU you would frown down upon a SAFC, really. |
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