Differnce between Blktop O2 and Redtop O2?

[KiLLeR2001]

Originally Posted by g6civcx

I don't want to prove anybody wrong. I just don't want a lot of bad info floating around.

Remedial info in my post: http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=113925

This is the only thing that matters:
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=113925

This is what the ECU sees at O2 sensor signal pin. The ECU doesn't care how the sensor actually works; only that .9 or more V, i.e. the presence of voltage, indicates a rich condition and 0V, i.e. the absence of voltage, indicates a lean condition.

While I agree that there are different materials used in the sensor, and each type has its own pros and cons, but in general, referring back to the ECU, this is all that the ECU expects to see. While it's also true that some types responds more quickly than other, but again, narrowband is very inaccurate so the ECU pulses O2 signal timing to get an aggregte reading.

With all SR motors, the O2 sensor has 3 wires: 2 non-polar power and ground for the heating element, and 1 for the signal wire. See my link above for this info.

The misunderstanding is in the fact that some manufacturers say that you shouldn't interchange O2 sensor type. This applies to severe duty or marine application where one works submerged in water while the other doesn't. In this application, only the functional submerged type can be used.

If you disagree with me, put a multimeter, or better yet, use a datalogger, on the O2 sensor signal wire for a fatty and a skinny and compare the reading to a wideband running at the same time. See what you get.

I see what you're saying but my question to you is, will the blacktop zirconia o2 sensor be as efficient with the redtop ECU instead of the skinny titania o2 sensor? (and vice versa).