PBM hydro ebrake not working

[Garber]

Just picked up a s13 with a pbm hydro ebrake already installed. it doesnt seem to work well at all. it has very little actuation, feels pretty stiff, and barely affects the rear brakes at all. it doesnt come close to locking them up. its worse than the stock ebrake which also doesnt work well.

i can feel it pushing the brake pedal out when i pull it which makes me think something is probably not hooked up right.

any ideas where to start and what to look for? car has z32 front brakes, stock bmc, and stock rear brakes

[Garber]

bump anyone?

[waxball88]

Bleed the brake system and hydro-ebrake

[Garber]

so feedback in the brake pedal is normal?

[Biggamehit]

is this system run inline? if so you will have interference.. be sure to bleed it all in order the last person may have just slapped it on there and started pulling the handle placing air into the system.

[Garber]

i bled it for a very long time and it still feels the same. when i release the valve the handle pulls so far it really makes me think something is wrong.


i think the lines may be installed backwards. if the previous owner did make this mistake, where are they most likely switched at?

[roboticnissan]

One line goes to the master cylinder and one goes to the rear brake hard line. Check the pbm website for proper install. You will need a prop valve in there somewhere to make it work better.

[pejsa]

if you pull the handle and step on the brakes it should feel like its pulling the handle out of your hand.

the fact that you say the handle pushes the brake pedal out makes me think you plumbed it backwards.

[Garber]

yeah it was not installed by me. i was hoping not to have to rip the whole thing out but we will see. i start by just switching the lines at the handbrake

[Garber]

the lines are right. I took the brakes apart and grease them up. didnt help. I put ebc green stuff pads in... it works better but still wont lock it up. def not as good as the handbrake in my s14.


im convince this thing is just a POS

[e5s4y]

possibly a dumb question, but do you have the clutch in when you're pullling the hydro?

[nickauger]

Maybe is just your rear caliper seize...

[buntaMN]

Originally Posted by e5s4y

possibly a dumb question, but do you have the clutch in when you're pullling the hydro?

all lot of new people seem to forget that lol

[Garber]

Originally Posted by e5s4y

possibly a dumb question, but do you have the clutch in when you're pullling the hydro?

yeah lol. I'm a noob, but not that dumb

Originally Posted by nickauger

Maybe is just your rear caliper seize...

they seemed to move fine when I had the brakes apart.

Originally Posted by buntaMN

all lot of new people seem to forget that lol

[twinspool]

Did you bleed all the brakes front and rear? If it is inline, which I am assuming it is, you should not have to bleed the hydro ebrake.

[Brockstar]

It's probably an issue with the master cylinder size. I would guess that your ebrake has a 3/4" master cylinder. For stock calipers, go with the 5/8" master cylinder. You can order one from Summit or Jegs that will bolt in as direct replacement. This will decrease the actual force required to lock the brakes, and conversely increase the handle travel.

[Car6on14]

garber, what rear brakes calipers are you running? I just installed my generic hydro and while I havent driven the car yet as my engine is in process of reinstall, it feels ok on the lift, here is a close up pic:

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...LcJWEkdW-U2Uaw

Front fitting is oem line going to the Y right to rear brakes, back fitting is coming from brake master cyl. When I pull the handle then hit the brakes it pulls the handle back, I have a bbk and the distance to pull the handle to lock seems ok.

[Garber]

Originally Posted by Brockstar

It's probably an issue with the master cylinder size. I would guess that your ebrake has a 3/4" master cylinder. For stock calipers, go with the 5/8" master cylinder. You can order one from Summit or Jegs that will bolt in as direct replacement. This will decrease the actual force required to lock the brakes, and conversely increase the handle travel.

interesting, I would have thought it would require more force with the smaller cylinder, but i will try this.

Originally Posted by Car6on14

garber, what rear brakes calipers are you running? I just installed my generic hydro and while I havent driven the car yet as my engine is in process of reinstall, it feels ok on the lift, here is a close up pic:

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...LcJWEkdW-U2Uaw

Front fitting is oem line going to the Y right to rear brakes, back fitting is coming from brake master cyl. When I pull the handle then hit the brakes it pulls the handle back, I have a bbk and the distance to pull the handle to lock seems ok.

the rear brakes are completely stock with ebc green stuff pads

[Garber]

Installed cheap organic pads and it still doesnt work. Installed that z31 altima brakes and is better but still doesn't lock in the dry.

[tobroketobuildarealcar]

If the system is bled properly and correctly installed the only other option is you are not strong enough to pull the handle

[TheRealSy90]

Are you just driving in a straight line and pulling the e brake thinking it's going to immediately lock up the rear wheels? It's not really going to do that. However if you were weight transferring into a corner and then pulled it or were already sideways and pulled it to prolong the slide i'm betting it will lock up just fine.

Also, pull it harder fool. Use your muscles.

[Garber]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Are you just driving in a straight line and pulling the e brake thinking it's going to immediately lock up the rear wheels? It's not really going to do that. However if you were weight transferring into a corner and then pulled it or were already sideways and pulled it to prolong the slide i'm betting it will lock up just fine.

Also, pull it harder fool. Use your muscles.

i'm yanking on it hard enough to bend the handle and bracket way more than im comfortable with.

my s14 stock handbrake locked the rears up no problem in a straight line. This doesnt seem to want to do it even when turning.

[G5SR20240]

It will take a lot of bleeding, and also a lot of arm strength when running an inline setup, also you could try trailing your brakes to get them hotter before trying to lock them up. If you run a proper race pad such as a hawk blue, it will grab pretty well for you

[Garber]

Originally Posted by G5SR20240

It will take a lot of bleeding, and also a lot of arm strength when running an inline setup, also you could try trailing your brakes to get them hotter before trying to lock them up. If you run a proper race pad such as a hawk blue, it will grab pretty well for you

ive been told cheap organic pads are best.

what is the proper way to bleed an inline hydro?

[G5SR20240]

im sure its been done different ways but after ive bled the brakes, i usually use the hydro to pump and bleed, you will need another person, but I do it just like i would with a brake master. Pump and bleed from your rear brake calipers. I've tried quite a few brake pads and some have grabbed better than others, my best pad was a hawk blue, they are race compound.

[cone killer]

Most likely the lines are installed backwards happend to me when I first installed my ebrake just unscrew the lines and swap them its with the try the handle should be really stiff and also make sure its mounted right with a transmission tunnel reinforced plate so it wont be all wobbly and retarded

[marks14]

Are you bleeding the system this way?

Two people. Person A and person B.

Person A....
Open door
sit in seat
when told, push foot brake down steadily and hold it down.
then, with foot brake down, steadily pull handbrake and hold it there.
when told, release the handbrake, and then the footbrake.
Relax.
Repeat when told.


Person B
Lay on floor, open rear driver's side caliper bleed screw.
Tell person A to push the pedal, then pull handbrake.
When they are holding both brake devices, tighten the bleed screw.
Tell person A to release the brake devices.
When person A has released them, loosen the bleed screw again and tell person A to operate the devices again.

Repeat this process a few times until the fluid spurts out a nice solid stream of fluid, not pissing, no bubbles, no spitting. Clamp bleed screw and move to rear passengers's side. Repeat the process.

[Garber]

Originally Posted by marks14

Are you bleeding the system this way?

Two people. Person A and person B.

Person A....
Open door
sit in seat
when told, push foot brake down steadily and hold it down.
then, with foot brake down, steadily pull handbrake and hold it there.
when told, release the handbrake, and then the footbrake.
Relax.
Repeat when told.


Person B
Lay on floor, open rear driver's side caliper bleed screw.
Tell person A to push the pedal, then pull handbrake.
When they are holding both brake devices, tighten the bleed screw.
Tell person A to release the brake devices.
When person A has released them, loosen the bleed screw again and tell person A to operate the devices again.

Repeat this process a few times until the fluid spurts out a nice solid stream of fluid, not pissing, no bubbles, no spitting. Clamp bleed screw and move to rear passengers's side. Repeat the process.

yeah this is how i did it.


and i did swap the lines and it was much worse. they are definitely on correct.



i am going to try a 5/8" cylinder... the one on it now is a 3/4"

[runthatsht]

I had same problem.get 300z rears and hawk hps pads. Install and drag brake to seat.