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Old 10-24-2011, 11:00 PM   #1
kouki_drifter
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s14 s14 sr20det rebuild!!!

got a 97 se kouki about 3 months ago and already spun a rod bearing so here i am rebuilding it, im going to post pics of the whole process so comment at will lol
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:03 PM   #2
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Were In the same boat builds in the garage lol
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:13 PM   #3
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that sucks man im kinda pissed the guy i bought the car from added me on facebook so i could see some vids of the car and once this happened and i posted about it on FB he deleted me lil bastard he was a mechanic for Toyota im sure he knew it was coming thats why he sold it, but its all good Carma is a bitch! lol
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:18 PM   #4
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here is some pics of the issue #3 spun Pictures by kouki_drifter - Photobucket
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:59 PM   #5
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any body know where i can get torque specs for the s14?
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:06 PM   #6
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Ok OEM crank,eagle H beam rods, acl rod and main bearings, super tec valve seals, and arp main studs on order wiseco piston heads, port, polish, 3 angle valve job, port match and decking coming soon yesss!!!
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kouki_drifter View Post
any body know where i can get torque specs for the s14?
Let me google that for you
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kouki_drifter View Post
Ok OEM crank,eagle H beam rods, acl rod and main bearings, super tec valve seals, and arp main studs on order wiseco piston heads, port, polish, 3 angle valve job, port match and decking coming soon yesss!!!
$ Quote on all this including labor please.

Thx
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:38 PM   #9
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Well parts from fr sport were $1200 and some change not including the piston heads, head work is $505 @ sileighty thanks man I wasn't sure what to look for thanks for the help so i could get this motor rollin
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:12 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kouki_drifter View Post
Well parts from fr sport were $1200 and some change not including the piston heads, head work is $505 @ sileighty thanks man I wasn't sure what to look for thanks for the help so i could get this motor rollin
Thanks was looking for more of a complete rebuild $. Should have been more clear. I'm just getting prepared for a future rebuild even tho (knock on wood)all is good.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:10 PM   #11
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O ok I see well I don't knw a full amount yet I'm still in the process but it all depends on the brands you go with and what all you wanna do, I'll list pics and parts and the full amount once Im done with mine so you can get an idea of how much
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:09 PM   #12
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FSM will list all if not most of the torque specs (possibly different on aftermarket parts such as ARP items).
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:01 PM   #13
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ok guys i got an important question? ok i ordered a new oem crank and standard eagle H beam rods so do i go withe the #'s and colors that are on the crank for the rod and main bearings? or do i just order standard? cuz thats what i did i just ordered standard bearings, am i ok? i would really appreciate your help thanks!!!
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:17 PM   #14
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this is the crank and bearings
Nissan OEM Crankshaft S13 S14 S15 SR20DE(T) Brand New

ACL 5M2964H/X Race Main Bearing Set Nissan SR20DE/SR20DET

ACL 4B2960H/X Race Rod Bearing Set Nissan SR20DET

Eagle CRS5365N3D SR20 SR20DET Chromoly Forged Rods

am i ok with this??? i got standard every thing
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Old 10-29-2011, 02:58 PM   #15
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nobody at all??? ok my oem crank numbers are:
first line: 00000
2nd line: 0000
3rd line: 0930B
so how do i figure out how to find the bearing size i need? i searched but didnt come up with how to do it
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Old 10-29-2011, 04:20 PM   #16
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ok so i found that because i am running a new oem crank that acl rod and main bearings would be ok because the crank is new and as long as the oil clearance is within .00008 to .00012 it will be ok, is this correct? i did a crude measurement of my crank with a digital caliper and it measured 47.90mm and i also measured my rod with bearing installed and it measured 47.98mm so the difference is .08mm is this an ok crude # i know plasti gauging is the proper way to do it but i just wanna make sure im in the safe zone now that way if im not i can get new bearings if i have to right away so im not putting a damper on my build or parts
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:38 AM   #17
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http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...fter/018-1.jpg
tear down pics
surprise!!! hell yea the heads already ARP studded !
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:43 AM   #18
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tear down pics

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...fter/018-1.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...fter/012-1.jpg

hell yea!!! surprise! the head is already ARP studded!
and it looks like the timing chain and guides are all new!
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:58 AM   #19
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whst do you guys think of this?
ACT 600230 XACT ProLite Lightweight Flywheel 10.5lb 89-98 SR20DET
any of you running a light weight flywheel?
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:05 PM   #20
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ok just plasti gauged my rode bearings came out with this is this an ok range? i read that nissan specs is .0014" +/- .0004 so is this ok or is the plasti gauge off???



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Old 11-24-2011, 07:47 PM   #21
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:51 PM   #22
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Ok quick question I knw max ring gap is .39mm I got me some wiseco forged pistone heads and the ring gap is at .43mm will I be ok or should I bore to 86.5mm or 87.mm
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Old 12-09-2011, 12:45 AM   #23
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some new parts!!!
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Old 12-09-2011, 12:46 AM   #24
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hks stage 1 256 cams

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Old 12-09-2011, 12:47 AM   #25
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wiseco 86mm forged pistones

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Old 12-09-2011, 12:48 AM   #26
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ARP MAIN STUDS

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Old 12-09-2011, 12:49 AM   #27
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APEXI 1.8MM MULTILAYER GASKET

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Old 12-09-2011, 12:50 AM   #28
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TIMING CHAIN KIT AND NISMO THERMOSTAT
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Old 12-09-2011, 12:51 AM   #29
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FRESH HONE

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Old 12-09-2011, 12:57 AM   #30
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EAGLE H-BEAM RODS

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