New Here, 240sx Problems :( - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Protaters · 07-12-2014, 10:06 AM

Hey everyone, I'm brand new to Zilvia.net and I've been doing a lot of research but can't find any solid evidence on any forum for the problem I've been having. I have a 240sx s13 with a Ka24E. I just bought it about a week ago and it's had problems since I bought it. The only info the guy gave me is this; New Clutch, new pistons, rings, rods, and crank, and there might be a leaky injector. If you need more info please ask as I may be forgetting some info.

Symptoms;
100RPM Fluctuation at idle, tapping gas causes it to bog 200-300, Loss of power or hesitation while driving. Gas Smell coming from outside of the gas door at the filler neck. It doesn't quite bog down, but it is definitely holding back. Also has an exhaust leak. I've tried to re-create the problem and it's so inconsistent that I have no idea what's going on.

Visual inspection shows this (from left to right of the engine bay);
Tape all over the coolant reservoir, tape around the intake piping, tape all over the MAF. Pictures below.

https://imageshack.com/i/ms26glj

https://imageshack.com/i/ncrzcpj

https://imageshack.com/i/mvldhoj

https://imageshack.com/i/nef5j26j

https://imageshack.com/i/ncjuzej

https://imageshack.com/i/nl0sbqhj

ZaK687 · 07-12-2014, 10:11 AM

Check the fuel lines coming from your sending unit, it may be leaking. Also try swapping maf's with a friend who has one that deffinetly works so you can rule that out.

Protaters · 07-12-2014, 10:16 AM

Ok thanks! I'll be checking the MAF later when I'm not so busy to see if he wired it wrong or anything. Thanks for the quick reply!

Protaters · 07-12-2014, 10:19 AM

Something I forgot to mention is that the ECU is probably throwing codes, but I can't determine what it is because the Check Engine light is burnt out. So I'll need to replace that and try to pull codes. Is there a way to do it while the check engine light is not working? Or should I just do the smart thing and replace it? lol

ZaK687 · 07-12-2014, 12:59 PM

Your ecu should have a light that blinks as well to help pull codes. Also that leaky injector should deffinetly be taken care of asap, I flooded my engine and pretty much screwed up my block when I didn't take care of a leaky injector quickly

PedroJG · 07-12-2014, 01:31 PM

http://240-sx.net/1989-1990-240sx-ka...ing-ecu-codes/

Protaters · 07-12-2014, 11:13 PM

Thanks so much for the help! Very appreciated and I will take care of that injector most likely by payday which is onkya couple days away lol

Bleakley · 07-14-2014, 08:30 AM

Definitely check those fuel lines. I had a KA24E in my '90 with an annoying problem that turned out to be cracked rubber fuel lines where they meet the hardlines on the chassis. Jack the car up and go through em with a fine tooth comb my friend.

robinsone · 07-14-2014, 09:23 AM

Replace ALL the rubber fuel lines period. They're more than 20 years old. Clean out the IACV, its on the back of the plenum. At the same time clean out your throttle body. The crankcase ventilation that runs through the intake over 20 years and so many thousands of miles will gunk everything up there. Your IACV might be bad, but you can get a KA24DE to work with it if you can't find a KA24E. I had a KA24DE IACV on my KA24E for the longest time. Ohm (voltmeter) all your injectors but yeah best just to replace them all, time and miles add up. Ebay or Rockauto for those parts. DO NOT replace the injectors without replacing the injector o-rings, again 20 year old rubber is just no good. If it still comes with the stock intake, check the rubber hose/coupling just before the throttle. Those are super prone to dry rot, I had 2 KA24Es that had this problem, again 20 year old rubber. While you're at it, replace the coolant temp sensor, the one that runs to the ECU and tells the engine that the engine is warmed up. When those go bad you'll have idle issues as well. They're too cheap not to just replace.

Protaters · 07-15-2014, 10:33 AM

thanks Rob! Also I checked the ECU codes and it's throwing an 11 and a 32. What is the best way to go about fixing those things? I think after I take the intake mani off clean all the IACV and replace all the rubber it should be MUCH better running. Also it started misfiring on what seemed like Cyl 3 when I messed with the injectors so I'll most likely be replacing injectors. I don't really want to throw money at the injectors just yet though because why buy new injectors when I'm doing a Ka-T? lol also I talked to the guy who sold me the car and confirmed that he rebuilt the engine with eagle rods and arp everything. He mailed the receipts to me, so I'll see what exactly it is. Also I'm in luck too because I took a look at the under-body and revealed no rust. This car is a CA based car and will most likely stay CA based due to EGR stuff. I hate EGR!!!!! Also the car does have 122k original miles and it runs strong just has that loss of top end Power.

I'm going to do what Rob says and just get through it. It'll be running like a champ soon!

Bleakley · 07-15-2014, 06:42 PM

If an injector is suspected to be at fault, move it to another cylinder. If the problem moves with the injector, then you have a bad injector. How about timing? Have we verified this engine is in time?

robinsone · 07-15-2014, 07:33 PM

Instead of moving injectors, why not just ohm to spec. If its out of spec, then its bad, replace as necessary.

Protaters · 07-15-2014, 11:20 PM

Moved to another cylinder today, and it traveled with the injector. Also, don't have an volt/ohm meter will get one soon, but instead of doing that Bleakly helped that way so the latter isn't needed I suppose. Not sure about timing. Still have to check. I should mention that I've only had this car about a couple weeks, and it's been super hot so I have to wait until it cools down just a little to crack into. The minute I go outside it's like an oven so it makes it hard to work haha I know I'm a vadje lol

Bleakley · 07-18-2014, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Protaters

(....) I'm a vadje lol

C'mon man! I know it sucks, but man up! Lol. Definitely replace that injector and report back on where that gets us..

Protaters · 07-18-2014, 09:16 AM

will do! haha Man mode engage!

Now my speedo just stopped working too, and I have to address that as well. I'm always going over 115 MPH lol

Protaters · 07-20-2014, 09:24 AM

Update: Injector fixed the bad idle but loss of power is still there at higher RPMs. Must be the EGR and Crankshaft Sensor thing. Getting it fixed soon. WIP lol

ZaK687 · 07-20-2014, 11:05 AM

I'm pretty sure that messing with the egr and crank position sensor aren't gonna increase your power in the higher rpms. The ka is notorious for having trouble breathing in the higher rpms causing a pretty big loss in power.

Protaters · 07-21-2014, 05:41 PM

Well I guess the better term would be a sink in power? Like if it had a bad MAF sensor or a bad spark plug?

07-12-2014, 10:06 AM	#1
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	New Here, 240sx Problems :( Hey everyone, I'm brand new to Zilvia.net and I've been doing a lot of research but can't find any solid evidence on any forum for the problem I've been having. I have a 240sx s13 with a Ka24E. I just bought it about a week ago and it's had problems since I bought it. The only info the guy gave me is this; New Clutch, new pistons, rings, rods, and crank, and there might be a leaky injector. If you need more info please ask as I may be forgetting some info. Symptoms; 100RPM Fluctuation at idle, tapping gas causes it to bog 200-300, Loss of power or hesitation while driving. Gas Smell coming from outside of the gas door at the filler neck. It doesn't quite bog down, but it is definitely holding back. Also has an exhaust leak. I've tried to re-create the problem and it's so inconsistent that I have no idea what's going on. Visual inspection shows this (from left to right of the engine bay); Tape all over the coolant reservoir, tape around the intake piping, tape all over the MAF. Pictures below. https://imageshack.com/i/ms26glj https://imageshack.com/i/ncrzcpj https://imageshack.com/i/mvldhoj https://imageshack.com/i/nef5j26j https://imageshack.com/i/ncjuzej https://imageshack.com/i/nl0sbqhj Last edited by Protaters; 07-12-2014 at 10:13 AM.. Reason: Dead Links

07-12-2014, 10:11 AM	#2
ZaK687 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: LIVERMORE, CA Posts: 838 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Check the fuel lines coming from your sending unit, it may be leaking. Also try swapping maf's with a friend who has one that deffinetly works so you can rule that out.

07-12-2014, 10:16 AM	#3
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ok thanks! I'll be checking the MAF later when I'm not so busy to see if he wired it wrong or anything. Thanks for the quick reply!

07-12-2014, 10:19 AM	#4
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Something I forgot to mention is that the ECU is probably throwing codes, but I can't determine what it is because the Check Engine light is burnt out. So I'll need to replace that and try to pull codes. Is there a way to do it while the check engine light is not working? Or should I just do the smart thing and replace it? lol

07-12-2014, 12:59 PM	#5
ZaK687 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: LIVERMORE, CA Posts: 838 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Your ecu should have a light that blinks as well to help pull codes. Also that leaky injector should deffinetly be taken care of asap, I flooded my engine and pretty much screwed up my block when I didn't take care of a leaky injector quickly

07-12-2014, 01:31 PM	#6
PedroJG Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Kissimmee, FL Age: 28 Posts: 337 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	http://240-sx.net/1989-1990-240sx-ka...ing-ecu-codes/

07-12-2014, 11:13 PM	#7
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thanks so much for the help! Very appreciated and I will take care of that injector most likely by payday which is onkya couple days away lol

07-14-2014, 08:30 AM	#8
Bleakley Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Near Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 637 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Definitely check those fuel lines. I had a KA24E in my '90 with an annoying problem that turned out to be cracked rubber fuel lines where they meet the hardlines on the chassis. Jack the car up and go through em with a fine tooth comb my friend.

07-14-2014, 09:23 AM	#9
robinsone Leaky Injector Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Chicago, IL Age: 45 Posts: 129 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Replace ALL the rubber fuel lines period. They're more than 20 years old. Clean out the IACV, its on the back of the plenum. At the same time clean out your throttle body. The crankcase ventilation that runs through the intake over 20 years and so many thousands of miles will gunk everything up there. Your IACV might be bad, but you can get a KA24DE to work with it if you can't find a KA24E. I had a KA24DE IACV on my KA24E for the longest time. Ohm (voltmeter) all your injectors but yeah best just to replace them all, time and miles add up. Ebay or Rockauto for those parts. DO NOT replace the injectors without replacing the injector o-rings, again 20 year old rubber is just no good. If it still comes with the stock intake, check the rubber hose/coupling just before the throttle. Those are super prone to dry rot, I had 2 KA24Es that had this problem, again 20 year old rubber. While you're at it, replace the coolant temp sensor, the one that runs to the ECU and tells the engine that the engine is warmed up. When those go bad you'll have idle issues as well. They're too cheap not to just replace.

07-15-2014, 10:33 AM	#10
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	thanks Rob! Also I checked the ECU codes and it's throwing an 11 and a 32. What is the best way to go about fixing those things? I think after I take the intake mani off clean all the IACV and replace all the rubber it should be MUCH better running. Also it started misfiring on what seemed like Cyl 3 when I messed with the injectors so I'll most likely be replacing injectors. I don't really want to throw money at the injectors just yet though because why buy new injectors when I'm doing a Ka-T? lol also I talked to the guy who sold me the car and confirmed that he rebuilt the engine with eagle rods and arp everything. He mailed the receipts to me, so I'll see what exactly it is. Also I'm in luck too because I took a look at the under-body and revealed no rust. This car is a CA based car and will most likely stay CA based due to EGR stuff. I hate EGR!!!!! Also the car does have 122k original miles and it runs strong just has that loss of top end Power. I'm going to do what Rob says and just get through it. It'll be running like a champ soon!

07-15-2014, 06:42 PM	#11
Bleakley Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Near Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 637 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	If an injector is suspected to be at fault, move it to another cylinder. If the problem moves with the injector, then you have a bad injector. How about timing? Have we verified this engine is in time?

07-15-2014, 07:33 PM	#12
robinsone Leaky Injector Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Chicago, IL Age: 45 Posts: 129 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Instead of moving injectors, why not just ohm to spec. If its out of spec, then its bad, replace as necessary.

07-15-2014, 11:20 PM	#13
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Moved to another cylinder today, and it traveled with the injector. Also, don't have an volt/ohm meter will get one soon, but instead of doing that Bleakly helped that way so the latter isn't needed I suppose. Not sure about timing. Still have to check. I should mention that I've only had this car about a couple weeks, and it's been super hot so I have to wait until it cools down just a little to crack into. The minute I go outside it's like an oven so it makes it hard to work haha I know I'm a vadje lol

07-18-2014, 09:16 AM	#15
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	will do! haha Man mode engage! Now my speedo just stopped working too, and I have to address that as well. I'm always going over 115 MPH lol

07-20-2014, 09:24 AM	#16
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Update: Injector fixed the bad idle but loss of power is still there at higher RPMs. Must be the EGR and Crankshaft Sensor thing. Getting it fixed soon. WIP lol

07-20-2014, 11:05 AM	#17
ZaK687 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: LIVERMORE, CA Posts: 838 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	I'm pretty sure that messing with the egr and crank position sensor aren't gonna increase your power in the higher rpms. The ka is notorious for having trouble breathing in the higher rpms causing a pretty big loss in power.

07-21-2014, 05:41 PM	#18
Protaters Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Western US, Cali Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Well I guess the better term would be a sink in power? Like if it had a bad MAF sensor or a bad spark plug?