Steering knuckle is hitting turbo oil hose

[gss0023]

I did an SR20 (blacktop) swap into my 91 240sx and I realized that the turbo oil return hose (I think thats what it is) is rubbing up against the steering knuckle. I was wondering if someone has dealt with this and has a good method of fixing this issue.

Thanks for any help

[crash n' burn]

Sound like an aftermarket drain outlet or an incorrect outlet. There should be more than enough space to fit your hand in between the two.

[mechanicalmoron]

You're drunk, go finish bleeding your brakes.

[gss0023]

You're drunk, go finish bleeding your brakes.

Thats kind of a stupid thing to say, but don't worry when I did my z32 big brake upgrade I bled my brakes. Thanks for no help!

[gss0023]

Sound like an aftermarket drain outlet or an incorrect outlet. There should be more than enough space to fit your hand in between the two.

I do think it has an aftermarket manifold, and there is some JDM engineering on the motor so you might be on to something.

[inopsey]

which blacktop do you have s13 or s14 there is slighty different geomptry between the 2 motors in that area and there are different part numbers for the oil drain off the turbo between the engines as well.

[Mikester]

Just checked mine to see (aftermarket manifold, much larger turbine & outlet)... PLENTY of distance between the oil return & steering knuckle, at least the distance between my palm & the top of my hand.

What kind of engine mounts did you go with?

Can you post pics?

[mechanicalmoron]

Thats kind of a stupid thing to say, but don't worry when I did my z32 big brake upgrade I bled my brakes. Thanks for no help!

You obviously know all about saying stupid things...

My point was that if your turbo anything is anywhere near your steering knuckle (not like, the parts between the two?) you're doing something wrong, it's not something you should have to ask about, if you're competent enough to have such a problem you should be competent enough to fix it without asking such a vague, dumb question.

Put your turbo and it's oil return somewhere that's not in the way of your steering knuckle, that should sort everything out.

[gss0023]

You obviously know all about saying stupid things...

My point was that if your turbo anything is anywhere near your steering knuckle (not like, the parts between the two?) you're doing something wrong, it's not something you should have to ask about, if you're competent enough to have such a problem you should be competent enough to fix it without asking such a vague, dumb question.

Put your turbo and it's oil return somewhere that's not in the way of your steering knuckle, that should sort everything out.

Ahh shoot you are right. I should've known when I bought this motor that there would've been this clearance issue that I should've solved before it was dropped in. How stupid of me!

I'm not and idiot. I know that to fix the issue I have to move the oil return line, but I was asking if someone has done this before and has a method they found the easiest.

You show your ignorance in your responses through trying to compensate for it by putting (and probably others) me down for asking a question. I will not be replying to you any further, so do not waste your time with a response.

[gss0023]

Just checked mine to see (aftermarket manifold, much larger turbine & outlet)... PLENTY of distance between the oil return & steering knuckle, at least the distance between my palm & the top of my hand.

What kind of engine mounts did you go with?

Can you post pics?

I went with the NISMO mounts, and I will try to take a photo when I get the chance.

[brndck]

the issue here is, YOU are not providing US the relevant information.

if you have:
-custom exhaust manifold
-non-stock turbo
-non-stock turbo mounting location
-aftermarket turbo drain

the issue lies somewhere in there.

STOCK sr20 components WILL NOT cause interference with the steering column, so. . . . . .

[gss0023]

the issue here is, YOU are not providing US the relevant information.

if you have:
-custom exhaust manifold
-non-stock turbo
-non-stock turbo mounting location
-aftermarket turbo drain

the issue lies somewhere in there.

STOCK sr20 components WILL NOT cause interference with the steering column, so. . . . . .

Yeah you are right sorry. I thought maybe this was a more common issue and I could get away with being vague.

When I bought the motor from JDM Engine Depot the listing didn't have much information about it, but it said that it has an aftermarket manifold (not sure which one). As far as I know the rest is stock.https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/576/eUDoA6.png

[jedi03]

got pics of the manifold?

[TheRealSy90]

Definitely not stock turbo location.

[Mikester]

A pic from a little further out (include manifold etc) might be helpful. Unless I’m looking at it wrong, it looks like the oil drain is not coming out at the correct angle. This would be a non-issue on a JDM car because there’s no steering knuckle in the way.

[A DOG 406]

Here is how I solved that issue when my drain tube was very close to the steering shaft.
I bought this part. https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-performance-t28-s14-s15-turbo-oil-drain-flange-tube-angled.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwgISIBhBfEiwALE19SVvdSjcq hwPc_OtVwZipid1EXA3P6m1yQajsQGX0xwdTbIt_8qA4DRoCfk cQAvD_BwE
Its advertised as being the correct direction but it wasn't. So i cut off the part of the metal drain tube where is starts to turn hard. So that way you are left with a fairly straight out the bottom drain tube. Then just got some rubber hose and a 45 degree metal elbow and made a homemade drain tube for $10. Gives you lots of clearance and easy to replace. Just make sure you heat wrap the rubber hose. I will add pics later so u can see what i mean.

[Kingtal0n]

If this is a daily driver I would go back to an OEM manifold and use a high quality garret turbocharger in the stock location using OEM style drain hose, clamps.

Get new gaskets & hardware. Clean everything spotless especially where the gaskets sit. Prep the surfaces properly and use that new high quality high temp hardware to bolt everything down.

Then, use a proper downpipe support brace to the transmission mount like OEM uses. The downpipe MUST be braced to the chassis or trans mount or something like that or it will vibrate and ruin the turbo gaskets/hardware and everything will come loose or break.

Another route is top-mount. Although top mount is IDEAL it is for experienced users only. But if you have the $$ for a power FC, 1000CC injectors, top mount manifold & a new borg warner turbo and fabrication skills/funds to make the correct downpipe and all that it would be superior to anything bottom mount related.