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MadScientist
08-30-2006, 11:26 AM
Ok guys... been thinking about it for a long time... just wanting to get the right parts and have it looking clean, like it belongs.
Currently I have called upon the Gods of Japan to help out (JUN & ARC) so you know I'm not going to do something stupid. Jun is consulting on the how to and little tid bits of advice, and ARC is quoting price on a Custom IC... basically just the IC core and tanks you see below.

Although ARC has displayed a V-mount Set-up for the SR20DET at Tokyo Auto Salon in Jan. they are not releasing for sale! So I have been looking at it very closly to see what they did.
http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/event/salon/up/02.jpg
http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/event/salon/up/01.jpg
Yes its beautiful!!
The first thing I have noticed is that the IC sits lower so that the Radiator support doesn't need to be cut... like the Signal Auto Cars.
Second is I think the Radiator is slighly smaller... also the water enters from the top on the turbo side and exits from the botom on the intake side... completly backwards from the stock set-up.
Oil cooler is on the Botom of the Radiator but that doesn't really matter, as its not part of the set-up.

I am looking at getting a Koyo Radiator and have it chopped up once the IC arrives... the logic behind this is simple... Koyo is all Aluminum so it shouldn't be hard to cut the top off to make shorter and relocate the in/ out ports as needed... and they are cheep if I fudge up the first one. Oh yeah a Bubbler or resivor Tank is needed on the Radiator because you cant have the Cap sitting at an angle or below the inlet to the engine... you will never get water back in the engine... Cap has to be higher than the Inlet on the engine.

I have seen very little info on V-mounts for the S-chassis so I thought I would share not only what I am working on but some of the info that has been passed through me. This is not a question if the V-Mount is better than Front Mount so lets not go there... If you guys have Light to shead on this topic, please do so. This is universal for KA and SR so no engine bashing.

Peace
Drew

woodchuck
08-30-2006, 12:41 PM
+1 for being different.
I heart ARC! too bad the US doesn't get some dope ass v-mount ic. :(

punxva
08-30-2006, 01:09 PM
good luck with this bro, i want to see pictures and updates of the progress.

upSLIDEdown
08-30-2006, 02:11 PM
I am looking at getting a Koyo Radiator and have it chopped up once the IC arrives... the logic behind this is simple... Koyo is all Aluminum so it shouldn't be hard to cut the top off to make shorter and relocate the in/ out ports as needed... and they are cheep if I fudge up the first one.


Main problem I see at a quick glance is the stock radiators (and replacements, such as the Koyo) are vertical, meaning the tanks are on the top and bottom. You'll need to find another all aluminum radiator from someone (Koyo, Griffin, etc) that is horizontal.

IAM_SO_sLOw
08-30-2006, 02:13 PM
im running a vmount set up right now...if i had a chance to redo this i would do it totally different...this is how it looks...ebay intercooler...stock radiator..custom intercooler piping...and a few little mods here and there... im running altima fans behind the radiator.. i have some ducts i made from sheet metal...

if i had a chance to redo it.. i would buy a good intercooler core and get custom end tanks..which would reduce the intercooler piping by alot and look way cleaner.... i would also find a shorter radiator...it was hard for me to find people to do my welding and customizing which is why i couldnt do it this way...and had to end up doing it all ghetto... also i didnt have lots of money to do it.... i ended up spending around 300$...

my car right now doesnt overheat unless i leave it sitting and running for along time w/o fans on...but the temp goes back to normal when i turn the fans on or start moving again.... i
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v303/iam_so_slow/IMG_1529.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v303/iam_so_slow/IMG_1526.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v303/iam_so_slow/IMG_1528.jpg

IAM_SO_sLOw
08-30-2006, 02:17 PM
^^
i forgot to mention that my fans are extremely close to my pulley... you cant tell from the picture but... you should run extremely slim fans and have a shorter radiator

upSLIDEdown
08-30-2006, 02:19 PM
There is a guy from VA or MD on here (and FA) that made a thread or 2 about his setup and dutcting. Forget his name, but I've seen him at VIR (Virginia International Raceway) before. Wait, I think it's WhiteGLX or something like that. Anyway, he did it, and his setup, esp. his ducting is kick ass. I did quite a bit of research on it a year or so ago. There is a lot of info on FA about it. One guy on there work for C&R (I think) and has a lot of info on it. Basically what I found out is it boils down to doing it right. It's not worth it unless you go all the way, meaning GOOD ducting - both entry and exit ducting. The exit is just as important.

'90RPS13
08-30-2006, 03:38 PM
Subscribed. Definately interested. *a

McRussellPants
08-30-2006, 04:10 PM
if i had a chance to redo it.. i would buy a good intercooler core and get custom end tanks..which would reduce the intercooler piping by alot and look way cleaner.... i would also find a shorter radiator...it was hard for me to find people to do my welding and customizing which is why i couldnt do it this way...and had to end up doing it all ghetto... also i didnt have lots of money to do it.... i ended up spending around 300$...


Yeah man, Im not trying to be a dick since you tried instead of talking like me and everyone else, but the way it is now ain't fresh at all.

The top 1/4th aint doing crap, theres no low pressure zone behind the IC, It doesn't look like theres enough ducting for there to be a high pressure zone infront of either of the cores.



*IF* I do it I'll be using an Evo Core with semi re-welded endtanks and I'll be slotting my radiator through the rad hole on the core support so bottom is parrallel with the end of the frame rails. I might notch the upper core support a little but it won't be cut out completely. Duct with some sheet .050 aluminum, and make a semi decent guard out of box steel for the bottom and be done. Piping and rad hose is easy as any other option.

Key to any kind of heat exchanger is pressure differential. The biggest reason the V-mount is superior is its easier to duct than a front mount.

It doesn't take Smaller Crossflow Rads and special endtanks, but they can defiantely be benificial. If you already have a radiator or for some wack reason have to stick with the OEM I could def see getting out under 350$ if you have someone to weld for you.

CKAMC
08-30-2006, 04:51 PM
Here is a link to a local guy who has v-mount in his car

http://www.az240sx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=21838&st=0&hl=vmount

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/Damicci/Ryousuke/Auto/DSC00861.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/Damicci/Ryousuke/Auto/DSC00855.jpg

hope it helps somewhat

McRussellPants
08-30-2006, 05:21 PM
door hinge headlight covers is a good state of tune.

JDM Junkyard
08-30-2006, 05:47 PM
here is my setup in a corolla. And for one I have way less room then you guys for the intercooler, and for the radiator.

http://www.jtuned.com/media/gallery%2Farticles%2FToyota%20Corolla%2086%20Ron%2 0Woo%2F005%2Ejpg
http://www.jtuned.com/media/gallery%2Farticles%2FToyota%20Corolla%2086%20Ron%2 0Woo%2F008%2Ejpg
http://www.jtuned.com/media/photobox.asp?action=viewimage&categoryid=541&text=&imageid=14200&box=&shownew=

the hardest part is to make the hood latch, because your radiator will technically be in the way of the support under the latch (bar that goes down from latch to bottom mounting point).

So to resolve this the latch had to have an additional support to make sure it stays in the correct position.

Other things to consider, is the coolant line/piping must be free of obstructions, and not rub onto any other parts. If your hoses rub it'll potentially be liable for a hole in the future.

Other then that, it's not that hard, but it does take some welding, or money spent to have them welded up. And technically mine isn't a V-mount it's a "7"

punxva
08-30-2006, 10:34 PM
dude how is the response with the bov right on the intercooler?

FCsilvia
08-30-2006, 10:49 PM
problem with most people who decide to make they're own grassroots VMIC, is ducting. i'm looking at both that S13 VMIC and AE86 VMIC, and there's no ducting on the sides nor hatch latch area.

where do you think the air is going to go? where ever there's less resistance. i'm not surprised that you're overheating at a standstill because VMICs do tend to heatsoak. but even in motion, your setups aren't working very efficiently. and another thing that would help is a vented hood. one that's functional with the VMIC setup that creates vacuum to draw air out.

i've already built a setup for an FC3S and FD3S. tested and tuned. with proper ducting, vented hood, and electric fans, there shouldn't be any overheating at all.

JDM Junkyard
08-31-2006, 12:33 AM
http://www.dub-nation.com/show/excstyle/images/1-excstyle_175.jpg
http://www.dub-nation.com/show/excstyle/images/1-excstyle_185.jpg

sorry was an old pic. I have ducting...

redsuns3838
08-31-2006, 12:51 AM
wow one of the best threads in the past few months.
i definately dig the side ducts for that ARC setup. make sure you fab something up similar to that.

but man that is an ill looking Vmount setup.

FRpilot
08-31-2006, 01:34 AM
did arc just introduce a bolt on v-mount setup? v mounts havent been talked about on zilvia since over a yr ago when there was a lot of hype in it when pictures first surfaced of v-mount.

ManoNegra
08-31-2006, 09:18 AM
One of the first ones I ever saw:

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/7946/koguchienginebaygreenuk8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Slidin240Wayz
08-31-2006, 09:23 AM
The ARC setup look crazy but the IC sit way too low to work well with a vented hood.

Drew, I am currently working on a v-mount setup. I am in the planning stages and it needs a fair share of welding. The ducting should be separated in half so the IC and rad have their own air currents.

I am doing my best to keep most if not all of my radiator support.

Carlos

CKAMC
08-31-2006, 10:04 AM
The ARC one will work still.... just needs more ducking to the vented hood

MadScientist
08-31-2006, 10:04 AM
The ARC V-Mount set-up was displayed at TAS but they are NOT selling it, and I have heard nothing from them on a release date... it will cost out the A$$ too as much of the ARC stuff does.. especially the Radiators which you will need.

I'm not going cheep or crazy expensive... I just want to do a very clean, well thought out set-up. I expect to spend the same amount you would on a normal FMIC, Radiator, Hose, etc... This is not something I have working right now... I simply have the resources, and doing the research first. The SR20 isn't even in the car yet.

I have a Vented Hood & Fenders on Sea Freight now that should be arriving first week Oct. I also have a Garage Defend Cooling Panel... another reason why I don't want to cut the Radiator Support. There are several Sheet Metal and Air Conditioner places near by... I'm sure I can throw some paper at them to make a nice Ducting system. Also looking at pricing on Inconel Piping... its hard to weld so welding will be minimal and I may go with the BOV on the IC... everything is so much in the air right now.

JDM Junkyard - your AE86 is awsome!! Beautifull set-up.

Peace
Drew

Creizai
08-31-2006, 10:22 AM
The ARC V-Mount set-up was displayed at TAS but they are NOT selling it, and I have heard nothing from them on a release date... it will cost out the A$$ too as much of the ARC stuff does.. especially the Radiators which you will need.

I'm not going cheep or crazy expensive... I just want to do a very clean, well thought out set-up. I expect to spend the same amount you would on a normal FMIC, Radiator, Hose, etc... This is not something I have working right now... I simply have the resources, and doing the research first. The SR20 isn't even in the car yet.

I have a Vented Hood & Fenders on Sea Freight now that should be arriving first week Oct. I also have a Garage Defend Cooling Panel... another reason why I don't want to cut the Radiator Support. There are several Sheet Metal and Air Conditioner places near by... I'm sure I can throw some paper at them to make a nice Ducting system. Also looking at pricing on Inconel Piping... its hard to weld so welding will be minimal and I may go with the BOV on the IC... everything is so much in the air right now.

JDM Junkyard - your AE86 is awsome!! Beautifull set-up.

Peace
Drew

V-Mount for the fucking win.

krustindumm
08-31-2006, 10:33 AM
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/afco1.htm

TipStylez
08-31-2006, 10:45 AM
Theres quite a few of people in washington running VMOUNTS.

Slidin240Wayz
08-31-2006, 10:55 AM
I like the radiators. That way you can angle the ic down and under the radiator core and still have room for a smaller radiator.

Carlos

MadScientist
08-31-2006, 11:17 AM
Took some measurements for the IC Core and Tanks... basically matching the width of the IC with the Radiator.

> Center ARC Logo
> 80mm Inlet and Outlet Pipes
> Pipes facing upward - logo side
> MO79 Core
> 500mm w/o endtanks
> 670mm w/ endtanks
> 300mm w/o mounting tabs
> 330mm w/ mounting tabs (2 on bottom side only)

Stock Radiator size is 18" x 26.5" x 2" (457mm x 673mm x 51mm)
From the stock mounting location on Bottom, to the engine you get about 9.5" (241mm) from Core support... this leaves about 6" from the now top of Radiator to the Hood... plenty of room for a 80mm IC core.
For the SR20 I see very little obstructing the angle of the Radiator... However, on the KA the Fan pully and Water Inlet Pipe sits out a bit far... still plenty of room to play with on top but angle is minimal.

BTW... I failed to mention... I'll be keeping the AC.
**I only have one question in regards to the AC. Is it vital that the Condensor stay the same size, and "If Not" can a Long Oil Cooler Type Core be used in place??? I know there will be some fabricating involved but its very minimal from what I see. Also the Condensor is smaller than the Radiator so it would be possable to revers the set-up and place it behind the Radiator. Any Thoughts??

peace
Drew

Slidin240Wayz
08-31-2006, 11:25 AM
Damn, still keeping AC. Aren't the lines solid? Well you said you had an AC guy around you so I guess he can do something about that. Also, you have alot of angle room for the radiator but my concern would be the belts and pulleys because it would be best to angle the IC with the front of it (closest to the nose of the car) to be upwards.
Like this guy did...
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/Damicci/Ryousuke/Auto/DSC00855.jpg

but he cut through all of the core which is a no no in my book.

Also, the garage defend panel will be useless if ducted correctly, only the air in the opening should go to the rad and IC.

Carlos

Slidin240Wayz
08-31-2006, 11:31 AM
Main problem I see at a quick glance is the stock radiators (and replacements, such as the Koyo) are vertical, meaning the tanks are on the top and bottom. You'll need to find another all aluminum radiator from someone (Koyo, Griffin, etc) that is horizontal.

I am missing the point. Can you elaborate on this?

TipStylez
08-31-2006, 11:47 AM
but he cut through all of the core which is a no no in my book.



Are you serious?! I hope his car is a track only car...even if it is, its still crazy

MadScientist
08-31-2006, 12:04 PM
Second is I think the Radiator is slighly smaller... also the water enters from the top on the turbo side and exits from the botom on the intake side... completly backwards from the stock set-up.

I just realized that setting the radiator up like that is a bad move... Hot water should be introduced from the bottom so that it is being cooled before it enters the engine from the top. With nothing holding the Hot water in the Radiator (gravity) the flow will be to quick and cooling will not be efficent even with a good Thermo.

Radiator will be about 1" from the belts... i'm also planning on gold plating the areas effected by head sink.
I really dont want to do a Fully Boxed-in Racecar style ducting... hood is vented anyway. Only going to box in the sides so air can't go around the set-up... upper and lower is basicly self controled.

Peace
Drew

REDSH!FT
08-31-2006, 12:24 PM
yeah removing the radiator core isnt the best idea even though its pretty flimsy. We are working on Ians V-Mount (mainevent) and his front end was totaled twice so I removed the radiator support but in the picture Ive created my own to support the intercooler. Ian picked the biggest radiator he could to fit and the intercooler is just resting. It will be angled slightly different once the tabs are tigged.

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/9445/dsc00447nv6.jpg

Slidin240Wayz
08-31-2006, 12:24 PM
I just realized that setting the radiator up like that is a bad move... Hot water should be introduced from the bottom so that it is being cooled before it enters the engine from the top. With nothing holding the Hot water in the Radiator (gravity) the flow will be to quick and cooling will not be efficent even with a good Thermo.

Radiator will be about 1" from the belts... i'm also planning on gold plating the areas effected by head sink.
I really dont want to do a Fully Boxed-in Racecar style ducting... hood is vented anyway. Only going to box in the sides so air can't go around the set-up... upper and lower is basicly self controled.

Peace
Drew

Gold plating... my bad baller! Ah well, ducting only the side could work, but definately not as well as being boxed in. If you do only do the sides, then the panel will work for you.

MadScientist
08-31-2006, 01:17 PM
Gold plating... my bad baller!
Gold Foil is not expensive at all and it deflects radiant heat up to 650 deg.
27" x 5 ft. roll is about $150... I only need about 1 ft. of it so that breaks down to about $30. With all that left over I could do the firewall.

Carlos... what are your plans on your set-up... what IC, Rad., etc...???

Peace
Drew

Slidin240Wayz
08-31-2006, 01:41 PM
Here is the engine bay I am working with.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02969.jpg

Here are a couple of test shots with a Starion IC. I could cut off the end tanks to how I need them.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02970.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02971.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02973.jpg


Now I flip the strut bar so the IC can sink in a little more.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02974.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02976.jpg


Then I take a side pic to check for clearance.

This helps me determine what is the best CF hood to get.


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02979.jpg


Side engine shot, exhaust side.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02981.jpg

Ghetto, "let me hold up the ic and try to take a pic of how it matches up with the TB" pic.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02982.jpg

Same thing on the exhaust side.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02983.jpg


The other matter I am contemplating is the cold side of the IC, because it is only 2.5 inches and the TB is 3 (maybe have to subtract .5 inches respectively). So I might weld on a bigger cold side outlet.

Upon further review, it looks like my current hot pipe will not line up ok. Look at the indents in the rad support and compare back and forth. I will not a cold pipe with the bov on the other side.


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02262.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC02976.jpg


And these are the best side shots I could find which indicate that I will most likely be keeping all of my radiator support, 2pts.! I did this by eyeing the engine compared to the fuse box and the fact that the IC ends before the or right on the tip of the fuse box.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/DSC01067.jpg

I will use this to bleed the system


http://www.splparts.com/Parts/Universal/Engine/Cooling/ExpansionTank.jpg

http://www.splparts.com/Parts/Universal/Engine/Cooling/SardExpansionTank.jpg


Some more on ducting. All I know how to use is MSPaint

I made my version to get a better idea of the ducting.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/Ducting.jpg

green- vent
blue- ducting
dark blue- cooling
black- hood and rad support
grey- motor
green- coupler
grey on green- clamp
brown- TB

I agree with the following;
1) Ducting being broken into 2 parts
2) Air will find its easiest way out, so make it easy for it to leave. Which involves guiding the air through the cooling systems the smoothest way through the channels with keeping turbulence to a minimum.


If I have enough room I can use thise Blitz Upper Radiator hose.

http://qjp.jp/ebay/images/BLITZCP.jpg



Here are some more ideas...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/1.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/2.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/3.jpg

Please note the split ducting.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/4.jpg


Phew...

Best wishes,
Carlos

McRussellPants
08-31-2006, 04:04 PM
I really dont want to do a Fully Boxed-in Racecar style ducting... hood is vented anyway. Only going to box in the sides so air can't go around the set-up... upper and lower is basicly self controled


Yes and no.

You could get a slightly better than OEM pressure like that, but once it gets to a certain pressure the air will find it easier to stagnate and go under the radiator and through the wheel wells.

Unless you have your radiator touching the bumper (which is risky since thats really out there where its gonna take a hit) you should at least do bottom/sides ducting that extend to the bumper, tops not as important if you have that rubber peice on the hood but would still help. If your gonna do this, it would be retarded beyond belief to spring for the C&R foil for heat soak, but not the 30$ in sheet aluminum to make proper ducting

Vented hood should be used to create a negative pressure behind the IC core, nearly all vented hoods will create separated flow (URAS/Koguchi/Dmax prolly have the most potential) so the key is sealed or semi sealed ducting to maximize the pressure differential across the core.

Like I said, the key to non front mounts is the ease of creating big pressure differentials in clean/fresh air. If your not gonna take advantage you might as well just make a front mount.

MadScientist
08-31-2006, 04:17 PM
End tanks are perfect... thats exactly what you need... good find. Cut the pipes off and fab them as you need. Isn't the TB on the S14 SR, 60mm??? or do you have a larger TB? I dont think your going to have enough room to put the BOV on the Cold Side... the IC is sitting port to port with the TB.

Not boxing the in the Set-Up... I ment specifically not going to box the set-up from behind the IC core... and the Thermal plating is to prevent Radiant Heat. Naturally with most all V-mounts you will get Heat Sink from air not directly hitting the core all the time like you would with a FMIC. I will have fans on the Radiator, and will be spliting the air between the systems (IC/ Rad). I have a Garage-S Hood... if your not familiar with it it has an OE top shape and the main duct sits below about 3"... nothing crazy like the D-Max/ URAS.... not going for the cheese grater look... the Garage-S hood also has extra ducting on both sides behind the main for extra cooling in the engine bay... I have also went the extra step on not only having Vented Fenders but venting them from the engine side as well (Auto Select R34 inspired).

Peace
Drew

McRussellPants
08-31-2006, 06:14 PM
Not boxing the in the Set-Up... I ment specifically not going to box the set-up from behind the IC core... and the Thermal plating is to prevent Radiant Heat. Naturally with most all V-mounts you will get Heat Sink from air not directly hitting the core all the time like you would with a FMIC.

Yes, Heat reflective foils are old hat, my point is. spending 150 for some foil ain't gonna help jack when your not gonna duct anthing past the sides of the cores aft of the core support. which, is what it looked like you said in your original post.


As long as you have good ducting in front, whats behind it won't matter as much so I wouldn't worry about not ducting the IC to the hood.

lol, vented fenders.

the head
09-01-2006, 08:30 AM
Instead of hacking up a koyo just get a circle track or stock car radiator from griffin or something I run a griffin 4 core in my car (non vmount) that sits about 3-4 inches lower than stock plus it is a side tank unit so it is a lot easier to move inlets and outlets around

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-01-2006, 09:08 AM
after reading this thread... im going to redo my set up for sure..theres alot of good info here...

hey slidin240wayz...where did you get that intercooler from?
how do you guys mount the radiator and intercooler to the car? do you know if you can use oe size radiators or you have to get a shorter one?

how good do you think a chargespeed hood or a seibon vented hood would work w/ this set up?

yokotas13
09-01-2006, 09:19 AM
epikmotorsports.com
He has done 4 or 5 v mounts on his own car.

Check out the site nad Email or call Jeff he shoudl be able to help

MadScientist
09-01-2006, 09:27 AM
This is what I ment by Vented Fenders... de dee de!
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0505_scc_skyline_05_z.jpg

Nice Find on the Griffin Radiator (27.5 x 15.5 x 3.0).. might have a winner.

IC and Rad are mounted to the ducting and core support.

Hey guys... I'm not trying to make this thread all about my set-up that I am no where near ready to work on... Mainly looking to see how others have done theirs and what they suggest... so far alot of good info.

Peace
Drew

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-01-2006, 09:36 AM
where would be a good place to find a griffin radaitor?

^^
would it be possible to make thoes vented fenders by yourself? also do you have to duct air to thoes vents or does air naturally flow that way?

Neejay
09-01-2006, 09:50 AM
I love v-mount setups. Definitely subscribing.

Slidin240Wayz
09-01-2006, 09:53 AM
hey slidin240wayz...where did you get that intercooler from?

how good do you think a chargespeed hood or a seibon vented hood would work w/ this set up?

Its a Starion IC--old school. An newer evo IC gives some room to play as well.

I think a single vented hood is good enough, just be prepared to cut the hole bigger for more flow.

Also, I think the mounting is done with brackets compared to being on the ducting. I would not trust the strength of sheetmetal to hold up and IC and radiator.

Drew,
I think those vents are a great idea and can be done by anyone with the right tools.

Carlos

MadScientist
09-01-2006, 10:04 AM
Found Griffin Radiators on Summit Racing.

Porting the Fernders (new name) is deffinatly something anyone can do to their own Stock or Aftermarket Fenders. I have seen this done on many of the JGTC, Time Attack, and Z-tune R34 Skyline. The ports are not directly venting from the inside of the hood because the hood is not sealed so the effect would be more like a natural vaccuum.

Peace
Drew

TipStylez
09-01-2006, 10:36 AM
^Can you give me more info on what thos "ported fenders" do? Sounds like a mod i might want to do.

Slidin240Wayz
09-01-2006, 10:52 AM
Drew,
By looking at the setup I showed with the starion IC. What vented hood would fit best?

Carlos

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-01-2006, 10:58 AM
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D55241%2DX&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
would this be like the perfect radiator to use? same inlet and outlet points as stock sr..

would you happen to know the specs on the stock evo ICs? i cant really find it

i was wondering how you guys are going to set up your bovs like on the hot or cold side? also has anyone heard about people putting the mafs on the cold pipe side after the intercooler? i was thinking about doing that... any thoughts on this?

Slidin240Wayz
09-01-2006, 12:30 PM
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D55241%2DX&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
would this be like the perfect radiator to use? same inlet and outlet points as stock sr..

would you happen to know the specs on the stock evo ICs? i cant really find it

i was wondering how you guys are going to set up your bovs like on the hot or cold side? also has anyone heard about people putting the mafs on the cold pipe side after the intercooler? i was thinking about doing that... any thoughts on this?

Damn, 260 is rough right after buying a Koyo. But to make this easy to work, it might work really well, depending on the height. Also, that one has the bottom outlet at an upward angle which might be left alone.

You can find evo ICs on ebay and someone might have some dimensions.

Carlos

the head
09-01-2006, 12:55 PM
if you do some searching you can get those griffin circle track units for fifty or more less on true circle track racer sites plus a lot of them offer free shipping my last one was 195

Slidin240Wayz
09-01-2006, 01:47 PM
Where did you get yours from?

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-01-2006, 09:37 PM
alright i think i found the specs of the evo IC its 19x11.5x2.75... i hope thoes specs are right and i think its stock...
does anyone know if the IC is too tall? looks like it will be cutting kinda close to the motor... hey slidin240wayz...what are the specs on the starion IC....

would you happen to have more pictures of that orange 240? i want to see more pictures of the ducting...
-thanks

Slidin240Wayz
09-02-2006, 10:33 AM
From left to right, matching the center of the throttle body to the center of the turbo outlet is app. 24 inches so it would be best to make sure the IC's endtanks match up very close.

http://i10.ebayimg.com/01/i/07/c5/ce/ab_3.JPG

http://i14.ebayimg.com/05/i/07/be/7b/26_3.JPG

http://i1.ebayimg.com/03/i/07/c3/9b/df_3.JPG

By using that Evo, you might have to snip the radiator core just a little bit. I think the optimal height would be 9 inches.


Carlos

PoorMans180SX
09-02-2006, 11:57 AM
have you looked at WhiteGLX's ducting:
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=98902&page=2&highlight=Grip+V-mount
Real sweet. Nice guy too.

McRussellPants
09-02-2006, 12:12 PM
^Can you give me more info on what thos "ported fenders" do? Sounds like a mod i might want to do.


not particularly.

JGTC fenders are vented at the back and bottom to clear out the highpressure area that forms in the wheel wells. on stock fenders they aren't gonna do shit.

Koyos are easy to use for V-mount, you just have to angle them though the core support. IIRC the signal cars did it, along with JDM Rice.

FCsilvia
09-02-2006, 01:08 PM
since we're all sharing pics of vmics..
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a244/Chirhofelix/VMIC2.jpg
this was the FC i built the VMIC for. ended up removing everything out because the owner wanted a Haltech installed.

Northern 27" x 19" radiator
Ebay EVO intercooler 20" x 12.25" x 2.75" core

NemeGuero
09-02-2006, 01:48 PM
dear god those have some short IC pipes..

I might have to do that once my car works right.
Throttle response has to be so sexy.

brainfood
09-02-2006, 02:50 PM
Which hood are you going to run on the zenk s14? I have been looking for vented hood that would suit a vmount setup in the future for my new chassis but I cant really find one that I like. I like the seibon but not sure if the front vent is really setup for a vmount.

articdragon192
09-02-2006, 08:50 PM
My friend is running V-mount on his GT35 powered KAT. He custom made a dual pass dual row radiator and custome made the endtakes on his IC for his car. Here are some pics. The car spools like crazy.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI0Mjc1ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

brainfood
09-02-2006, 09:58 PM
My friend is running V-mount on his GT35 powered KAT. He custom made a dual pass dual row radiator and custome made the endtakes on his IC for his car. Here are some pics. The car spools like crazy.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTI0Mjc1ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


what hood? :)

articdragon192
09-02-2006, 10:13 PM
Stock hood for now. He states that it cools suffient enough while the car is in motion. once the car is at a stop for a decent amount of time, you start to notice the heat take on a toll, but goes back to normal once it gets in motion again. Currently he aquired a stock S14 hood and is gonna make a vent on it necessary to get rid of all the hot air. throttle response is nice. Starts spooling around 3-3.5k.

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-02-2006, 11:38 PM
slidin240wayz:: where can i find a starion IC... i kinda think its better than a evo's what was the height for the starion?

brainfood:: do you know where your friend got his end tanks welded at?

articdragon192
09-03-2006, 01:42 AM
My friend did the welding himself.
www.corner3garage.com
Tell them Edgar sent you.

Slidin240Wayz
09-03-2006, 09:17 AM
slidin240wayz:: where can i find a starion IC... i kinda think its better than a evo's what was the height for the starion?




Ebay and it's 8 inches high. My only concern is HP rating.

Carlos

brainfood
09-03-2006, 12:11 PM
Ebay and it's 8 inches high. My only concern is HP rating.

Carlos


Whats up with these??
http://www.streetimports.com/product_details.asp?id=356

Custom endtanks, looks like a perfect size. Should flow plenty and cool effeciently. I would think a smaller core would be okay for 2 reasons. Most cores are way to big anyway that people run for the amount of power they are putting out (most kits are good for 600+hp). And the vmount is going to cool more efficiently making it possible to run a smaller core. Worst case you can rock a nx ntercooler. I will probably run one on my setup since I hate sr's that overheat which is most in the socal sun at drift days.

Markovich
09-03-2006, 08:55 PM
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/menotu5623/DSC01071.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/menotu5623/DSC01073.jpg
I did a vmount setup on my90 240sx redtop it was that hard i bolted the plate that hold my intercooler up to the latch so it holds the latch still works great ebay intercooler 1g dsm radiator.

NemeGuero
09-03-2006, 09:01 PM
I'm extremeley jealous.. that looks so pimp.

Slidin240Wayz
09-03-2006, 09:31 PM
Hey Guys, I dropped my motor in today and I measured the distance from the edge of the radiator support to the tip of the motor; 11 inches. The starion has about 2-3 inches of play which is great. I will have a FMIC for the time being but I will mock up the starion to show you guys how it would fit.

Brainfood,
A 21 might work wonders. Remember I said 24 inches from center to center, TB and turbo outlet. If you take 3 inches off the total length of an IC (endtank to endtank), the optimal core wold be 20-22 inches.

Thes guys on ebay offers 2 great intercoolers but they are a little thick; 4 inches...

SR style (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V-Mount-Turbo-Intercooler-Buick-Grand-National-AM-Regal_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ013QQit emZ230016419294QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V)

http://s1.promotionsupplies.com/ebay/just-intercoolers/images/intercooler/au-ic0008-1.jpg

Length (Core) 18"
Height 12"
Thickness 4"
Inlet 3"
Outlet 3"


RX7 style (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSPEED-FMIC-RX7-RX-7-V-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitem Z290024120498QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

http://images.andale.com/f2/105/104/15071119/1133362440915_1133639386857_rx7_ic1.JPG

Core Length : 18"
Core Height: 12"
Core Thickness: 3.5"
Inlet Size: 2.5"
Outlet Size: 2.5"
End to End" Length: 25"

So the possibilities are out there guys!

Carlos

ps if you want the SR style one, I can get you a better deal than listed.

Markovich
09-03-2006, 09:32 PM
thanx man lol

Markovich
09-03-2006, 09:34 PM
use an rx7 vmount intercooler from ebay thats what i did

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-04-2006, 12:02 AM
i think the starion intercooler is perfect... im looking for a starion intercooler.. i cant find it on ebay or anywhere =(... how much hp can the starion hold? 300?

a 12in height ic is kinda too big unless you want to cut the radiator support a inch or so...

yokotas13
09-04-2006, 06:45 AM
starions are SHIT for flow. only peopel that Use them on DSMs dont realize its only Slightly better than their sidemount

Slidin240Wayz
09-04-2006, 07:06 AM
starions are SHIT for flow. only peopel that Use them on DSMs dont realize its only Slightly better than their sidemount


I have been looking for some type of evidence/ research. Do you have HP ratings to prove this or any other type of proof?

Carlos

yokotas13
09-04-2006, 07:13 AM
I have 4 sub 13 second DSMs i built personaly for people in the last 5 years, tried Starion on one, and after retuning for it, made WORSE numbers than the stock sidemount, and intake temps at hte throttle body went up.

i hope that would be enough. HP was off by nearly 25 or so and temps went up almost 13 degrees. if i recall correctly, it was one of the first ones i built(on a PTE 50 trim with a 46 ar btw

By slightly better, i meant wow you have a FMIC btw

IMO the best upgrades are an SRT4 or a EVO FMIC. if yoru gonna do it yourself. But i saw the best perormance out the 24 row Greddy lol

Slidin240Wayz
09-04-2006, 08:14 AM
24 row greddy would be nice, but size is the biggest factor. I am leaning towards and Evo IC or the SR style I posted above. I can cut 2 slite through the rad support and run brackets through the slit and tighten it onto the rad support studs. This was it stays under the rad support.

Carlos

brainfood
09-04-2006, 10:58 AM
With all the work of going vmount to be more efficient I think a good flowing efficient ic core would be essential. At least for me, as I see it why go vmount if I am going to loose my low pressure drop fmic core for some janky ghetto rigged setup. I wont see any more response if I use a crappy core and that is why I would go vmount in the first place.

Slidin240Wayz
09-04-2006, 02:16 PM
Good point, which is why ducting and IC choice and positioning is key.

Carlos

NemeGuero
09-04-2006, 02:30 PM
So is there an optimal angle for the best flow? I've seen a few V's that look like the top IC is flat, others its angled.. and there doesn't really seem to be a pattern.

Ducting is important I gather, so do you just wall in the sides, top and bottom?

MadScientist
09-04-2006, 04:05 PM
Searching all over the place, as always, I have found the following.

Flat Top IC (or "7" style) has less piping but your core size will have to be smaller (height) so it can fit between the Rad. support and the Engine, otherwise you will be cutting into the Rad. Support. Benifits would lean more towards having the IC closer to the hood vents... so at speed the air traveling over the hood would help suck air through the core.

Angle Mount IC (or ">" style) would have slightly more piping but you can possition a bigger IC a little better without killing your Rad. Support. This will also place the IC closer to the air traveling through the face.

Ducting doesn't have to be all crazy. Closing in the sides is most critical as you dont want a large mass of air to escape around the part your trying to cool. Ducting the Face or boxing the Face is undersatandable and will force more air into the IC and Rad. Boxing the Top will be the same effects as the "7" style with a good vented hood. The most benifical would be a spliter so in comming air is devorced into its own duct (IC/ Rad).

The Signal Auto Drift Twins use Greddy IC Cores.
One is Flat Top IC, and a chopped Radiator support.
http://www.signalauto.co.jp/Images_jp/4_4dri3.jpg
Other has a slight angled IC and a cut Radiator support.
http://www.signalauto.co.jp/Images_jp/4_5drihood.jpg

Also HKS offers Core and Side Tank options, but you'll need to get welded.
HKS Core #12 (#1303-RA016) 600 x 301 x 65mm
HKS End Tank - C (17302-169327)
HKS End Tank - D (17302-170327)
Piping is a little long (100mm) but easy to cut down as needed.

Peace
Drew

NemeGuero
09-04-2006, 05:12 PM
god damn.. thanks Drew.

Dr. Moreau
09-04-2006, 05:57 PM
drew, just a thought. what if you set up the radiator like i've seen on some fords. you fill the radiator through a plastic tank that also acts as an overflow for the system. the tank usually has a 16psi plastic cap. i've also seen a setup where they ran an extra pipe from the radiator up next to the engine as a fill point.

btw im the guy w/ missing body panels that was at npr. they're all back on and painted now.

Slidin240Wayz
09-04-2006, 06:04 PM
The best flow would be straight through the fins. The second Signal car has a better flow because the side closer to the motor is lower than the side closer to the rad support. Just imagine bending the air so that it would be like the IC was in the front of the car.

Carlos

MadScientist
09-04-2006, 06:09 PM
What up Squirrel!?!

Yes, for the Radiator you can extend the filled tube or you can make it solid and use a Bubbler Tank like the SARD which includes a Radiator Cap at would server the same funtions. Just remember to place the over flow line above the inlet port on the engine.

I think someone was using a modified Morroso Tank (white, V-mount?).

Peace
Drew

Slidin240Wayz
09-04-2006, 06:15 PM
Notice how this guy retains stock looking radiator? Is it?

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/menotu5623/DSC01073.jpg

WhiteGLX
09-04-2006, 07:58 PM
i had posted wuite the write up on how and why i did mine like i did, and how it ended up working at the race track, i would never use mysetup for daily driving because of cooling issues when the car isnt moving.

setup mounted with smaller than KOYO radiator old Greddy FMIC and without cutting any supports.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE2OTk5NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

lower ducting

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0804.jpg


upper ducting

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0778.jpg


ducting fitment in the "V"

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0768.jpg


hood fitment

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0794.jpg

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-04-2006, 09:36 PM
hey i looked into the srt 4 stock intercoolers....the specs i thnk are 23.5x5.75x3.5...what do you guys think about this? height too small?

Slidin240Wayz
09-04-2006, 09:51 PM
hp rating on that?

Thanks for posting pics of your setup bro. How do you bracket the IC and Rad in place?
Carlos

WhiteGLX
09-04-2006, 10:19 PM
hp rating on that?

Thanks for posting pics of your setup bro. How do you bracket the IC and Rad in place?
Carlos


i only put down about 260whp, its just a T28 for a long time commin. IC and Rad are held in place with brackets i made and then had a hprofessional welder to all the welding for me (i didnt want to eff up the IC or RAD and get leaks). i sadly dont have pictures of those.

brainfood
09-05-2006, 12:23 AM
i only put down about 260whp, its just a T28 for a long time commin. IC and Rad are held in place with brackets i made and then had a hprofessional welder to all the welding for me (i didnt want to eff up the IC or RAD and get leaks). i sadly dont have pictures of those.


Setup looks nice do you run fans on the radiator? Not sure why it would overheat for street driving it looks very efficient. Are you getting a good low pressure zone behind the ic with the ducting that far above the hood line?

fico
09-05-2006, 12:31 AM
its not exactly a vmount but i had a question...i have my radiator at a reverse angle but the inner cooler is the same just the radiator bottom is close to the engine and top is close leaned against the front...do u think this will help hinder or do nothing?

McRussellPants
09-05-2006, 01:05 AM
Setup looks nice do you run fans on the radiator? Not sure why it would overheat for street driving it looks very efficient. Are you getting a good low pressure zone behind the ic with the ducting that far above the hood line?

Im sure he hasn't run a pressure test on it but he posted the first good DIY example in this entire thread. both the Signal cars and Koguchi nailed it too.

With the "gurney flap" right before the duct the only way it wouldn't create a huge drop in pressure behind it is if the flow was already seperated, and seeing as how the 240SX has a smooth nose unlike the STi and FC it should be working as intended.

Ducting on it is near perfect. bending the outsides of the koyo for bracket for ducting is classy.

The piping is kind of wack but whatever.

I'll pretty much be doing that exact setup but with less layback on the radiator.

brainfood
09-05-2006, 01:23 AM
I agree it is a very nice setup, I was just wondering about the hood ducting because I have been looking for a decent hood that would do well with a fmic but an oe style could be cut to run with a duct like that with little work.

johngriff
09-05-2006, 03:03 AM
V-Mount Looks SWEET! How many people want one really bad now based off that ARC pic!!

yokotas13
09-05-2006, 05:14 AM
i had posted wuite the write up on how and why i did mine like i did, and how it ended up working at the race track, i would never use mysetup for daily driving because of cooling issues when the car isnt moving.

setup mounted with smaller than KOYO radiator old Greddy FMIC and without cutting any supports.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE2OTk5NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

lower ducting

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0804.jpg


upper ducting

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0778.jpg


ducting fitment in the "V"

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0768.jpg


hood fitment

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/PDR_0794.jpg
thats some Aircraft Sheetmetal guy work if ive EVER seen it myself lol...unless you do sheetmetal some other place for a living.

WhiteGLX
09-05-2006, 05:25 AM
Setup looks nice do you run fans on the radiator? Not sure why it would overheat for street driving it looks very efficient. Are you getting a good low pressure zone behind the ic with the ducting that far above the hood line?

it overheats because i only have a little 12" fan on teh back of the raciator. Without the high flow of air you get from actually moving forward the rad doesnt work as well as it does in movement.

this setp was done on a budget and to be completely functional not for bling factor. On the reace track i get average temps of 170* with no fans at all, if i run defreoster and rad fa i can actually get temps down to 150* on track.

All ducting was done using my aviation sheet metal training, glad you all like it. Oh my radiator is not a Koyo also, its about 8" shorter, and i got it on ebay, i jut got the dimensions that i was looking for, Koyo was too big to fit without cutting anything.

yokotas13
09-05-2006, 05:27 AM
lol I KNEW IT!!!

WhiteGLX
09-05-2006, 07:32 AM
im an Aircraft Technician, its what i do, sheet metal has always been my thing along with electrical wiring.

the head
09-05-2006, 09:53 AM
Where did you get yours from?

stock car products they no longer carry Griffin but they do have decent prices on AFCO and Howe radiators if you google "griffin circle track radiators" you will find a lot of suppliers. Be sure to get Chevy outlets if you have an SR

NemeGuero
09-05-2006, 11:04 AM
Dear god that shit is fuckin' cclleeeeaaann..
build cost tally?

WhiteGLX
09-05-2006, 12:56 PM
mmm, cost of Greddy FMIC kit 2 years ago, HT hotpipe with greddy BOV, $100 Ford racing ebay alum. radiator, $25 ebay Moroso Coolant resivoir, $300 in aluminum welding, $30 rad hoses & clamps, $40 aluminum sheet metal for ducting & rivets.

the FMIC kit i used to use was the biggest cost, i could have spent a fraction of that if i went v-mount from the begining without buying a FMIC kit and getting a smaller IC and ebay IC piping kit.

Slidin240Wayz
09-05-2006, 01:39 PM
$1345, hmm pricey

WhiteGLX
09-05-2006, 02:12 PM
liek i said, if i had gone v-mount up frnt, knock at least 500 off that, selling and rebuying IC stuff was a waste of tiem because i never would have gotten enough money back on teh IC and pipes to make it worth it

Slidin240Wayz
09-05-2006, 02:23 PM
How many people would be interested in paying for a v-mount setup out of the gate? IC, Radiator with proper welds, Reservior tanks, Ducting for a very close to bolt-on setup? Also, how much would you pay for a proven setup?

Carlos

ThatGuy
09-05-2006, 02:27 PM
Make it KA/SR/CA compatible and you would increase your market. :rawk:

I still wouldn't be interested, but then again I'm after a NA V8. :D Just making a suggestion for you guys to consider. :bow:

mr_240sx
09-05-2006, 02:51 PM
well im currently in the markt for a v mouint set up because im picking up a shell tomorrow morning and its gonna be my track car. so id like to go vmount! make a kit and let me demo it for you!

Slidin240Wayz
09-05-2006, 02:52 PM
Make it KA/SR/CA compatible and you would increase your market. :rawk:


Thanks for the advice. That is very do-able just by different brackets and minor piping differences.

Carlos

chuy
09-05-2006, 06:08 PM
Id be in hell youd save me time looking for stuff. Lazy!!!

Slidin240Wayz
09-05-2006, 06:25 PM
+1 for a v-mount, would you pay $1000 for it?

NemeGuero
09-05-2006, 06:45 PM
I'd be in Carlos... depending on price of course.

WhiteGLX
09-05-2006, 07:10 PM
in all honesty i could make a kit that would just need custom IC pipes made per application, but everyone woul demand different things Rad sizes, IC sizes, and for teh ducting to be done properly somethings need to be cut for it to work properly. Alot of R&D for small profit or outcome...mostlikely why no one has hit the market with a kit yet.

Slidin240Wayz
09-05-2006, 07:37 PM
in all honesty i could make a kit that would just need custom IC pipes made per application, but everyone woul demand different things Rad sizes, IC sizes, and for teh ducting to be done properly somethings need to be cut for it to work properly. Alot of R&D for small profit or outcome...mostlikely why no one has hit the market with a kit yet.

Alast, I came around...

Markovich
09-05-2006, 08:08 PM
Notice how this guy retains stock looking radiator? Is it?

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/menotu5623/DSC01073.jpg


Its a 93 eagle talon radiator but its getting replaced by an aluminum rad from ebay.The car is my daily driver and have put about $525 with the new alumnium radiator, intercooler, piping, bov, fan im on a really tight budget!!

mr_240sx
09-05-2006, 08:16 PM
+1 for a v-mount, would you pay $1000 for it?
well for 1000 bucks id buy it if it looks like a professional job like the arc kit. but if it looks like a backyard hack job then no way.

Slidin240Wayz
09-05-2006, 08:42 PM
well for 1000 bucks id buy it if it looks like a professional job like the arc kit. but if it looks like a backyard hack job then no way.

I definately understand your concern and I would not put my name on crap work. To have a kit like ARC is pushing it just because of the radiator endtanks and titanium ducts. I am just looking for interested individuals. I have seen the RX-7 kit sell for over 1100, so I am judging by that amount.

Carlos

mr_240sx
09-05-2006, 08:45 PM
well i tried my current 240 once this year and had over heating issues so my project car which will be mean for 90% track and 10%DD, i wanna make sure i get the cooling issues out!

chuy
09-05-2006, 08:46 PM
I dont know if it would help to do it in HP figures. I havent gotten that far yet. But Im in as long as theres no cutting of any radiator mounts and stuff. If we have to cut the bumper no prob I just dont want to cut the metal bumper and radiator support.

Slidin240Wayz
09-05-2006, 09:21 PM
I dont know if it would help to do it in HP figures. I havent gotten that far yet. But Im in as long as theres no cutting of any radiator mounts and stuff. If we have to cut the bumper no prob I just dont want to cut the metal bumper and radiator support.

I do not want to cut ANYTHING at all, especially the rad support. It's just going to take alot of test fits and measuring and what not.

Carlos

JohnC
09-06-2006, 12:04 AM
For $1000 I would buy it 4sure.

MadScientist
09-06-2006, 09:54 AM
I dont think making a Kit would be the best way to sell a V-mount... The ARC is going to cost, at least, well into the $3000 range. I have seen several other FD3S V-Mounts going for $2500+. I personally would stay away from a $1000 V-mount. Everyone wants the quality and proven performance of an ARC type set-up but NO-ONE is going to buy the ARC.

The best option is exactly as I was posting to begin with... Find the parts and do the R&D... if you dont know what your doing (or trust your skill) then get help, or don't do it. There are to many variables: KA, SR, CA, Bottom mount, Top Mount, V-mount, 7-Mount, etc...

The best part posted so far is the Griffin Radiator w/ Chevy pipes... yes it still needs modified, but thats what makes Your set-up... yours!

Peace
Drew

FinalDrive
09-06-2006, 12:18 PM
$1000 for a kit that includes intercooler and radiator? I'd be interested

the head
09-06-2006, 03:45 PM
I dont think making a Kit would be the best way to sell a V-mount... The ARC is going to cost, at least, well into the $3000 range. I have seen several other FD3S V-Mounts going for $2500+. I personally would stay away from a $1000 V-mount. Everyone wants the quality and proven performance of an ARC type set-up but NO-ONE is going to buy the ARC.

The best option is exactly as I was posting to begin with... Find the parts and do the R&D... if you dont know what your doing (or trust your skill) then get help, or don't do it. There are to many variables: KA, SR, CA, Bottom mount, Top Mount, V-mount, 7-Mount, etc...

The best part posted so far is the Griffin Radiator w/ Chevy pipes... yes it still needs modified, but thats what makes Your set-up... yours!

Peace
Drew

the only issue with the chevy rad is you need to "alter" the passenger side end tank by about a 1/4-1/2 inch to get it to fit between the S13 rails use a rubber mallet to you don't puncture the end tank...besides that all you need are some custom hoses I recommend silicone bends and some SS piping for the straight areas...this will minimize the areas that can be damaged by sharp objects. Or you can simplify and use cool flex hot rod radiator pipes then you can do almost anything with the hoses you want to and they come with SR sized reducers which you will need because the outlets on the radiators are a 1/4 or so in. larger than the inlets and outlets on the engine.

I am using the cool flex piping on my SR right now along with the chevy griffin rad I can post pics but in may be a week or two before it happens.

if you guys have any other questions about this setup just post or PM me
and for the time if nothing else dont forget to throw some rep my way

Markovich
09-07-2006, 05:37 PM
while we are talking about vmounts i posted in a diff forum and it was about my cooling in the vmount and i was wondering if this info was correct i have 1 12" pull fan with no thermo i no im putting athermo as soon as i get my new radiator and licenses back
thnx

"Wow, if it's a daily driver I highly highly HIGHLY recommend running push and pull fans. I hadn't realized your setup was incomplete. My friends who are near overheating daily driving their v-mount s13 and s14 are running push-pull fans and still coming too close for comfort to severe damage from overheating. Not trying to tell you what to do, but if this is a dd, you will overheat and possibly warp the head from running solely a pull fan. If anything I recommend running a push fan because it has better cooling efficiency where it counts for a dd than a pull.

Also, do not run a stock fan on a v-mount setup!!!! They are for low horsepower cars and the thermostat is non-adjustable. That is just asking for trouble. If you are going to go the route of constructing a v-mount setup, make sure you spend your money in the right places and don't cheap out. This is not a setup that you want to run low quality on.

I recommend running a 12 or 14" Perma-cool single fan as a push fan and a FAL dual electric as a pull fan. Main reason I recommend this setup is because the Perma-cool fan has a dual adjustable thermostat which can also be adapted to the FAL (flex-a-lite) fan. Your fan setup should cost around $3-400 which is approximately what this will cost you.

What are you doing as far as ducting goes? Any pics?"

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-08-2006, 03:32 AM
hey you guys..wht do you think about these radiators?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D55241%2DX&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-25241-X&N=700%204294839040%20115&autoview=sku
i dont know which one to get... the price difference is like 70$ the only thing i notice that is different is tube size "1" "1,1/4" what is the tube size?

also w/ these radiators do i still have to run a breather tank or will the circulation be good?

Slidin240Wayz
09-08-2006, 06:05 AM
breather tank always necessary to get all the air out.

Tube size will most likely be size of the the outlets. SR upper is 36mm for example.

Carlos

240silvia
09-08-2006, 06:30 AM
The V-Mount setup is a great way to go, extremely drifting friendly. The response with the V-Mount compared to a front mount is very nice. I guess I just like the "Bling" effect of the Front Mount. lol

-Charles

the head
09-08-2006, 08:35 AM
hey you guys..wht do you think about these radiators?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D55241%2DX&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-25241-X&N=700%204294839040%20115&autoview=sku
i dont know which one to get... the price difference is like 70$ the only thing i notice that is different is tube size "1" "1,1/4" what is the tube size?

also w/ these radiators do i still have to run a breather tank or will the circulation be good?

That is identical to the one I have in my car right now tube sizes are for outlet/inlet fittings look around on other sites you should be able to get that for 195-210 instead of 250 plus 20 handeling plus shipping

I am not currently using a breather tank and I dont seem to have any bubbles or pockets

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-08-2006, 09:25 AM
^^
how do you like the radiator? also do you have a vmount set up?

o hmm...but they already state the inlet and outlet size
"Inlet Size: 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Size: 1 3/4 in.
Tube Size: 1 1/4 in. "

i was wondering what steps should i go about building another vmount set up the right way? like get the radiator to fit first? then duct near the radiator then get the intercooler in w/ piping and duct more?... my other set up i just pretty much eyeballed everything and did it all at once...

also do you guys know where i can get material for custom endtanks or even what material to get? does anyone know a place where i can get like thicker sheetmetal or something for a good price...homedepo sells really thin pieces.. i want something that doesnt flex as much

-thanks

the head
09-08-2006, 02:12 PM
^^
how do you like the radiator? also do you have a vmount set up?

o hmm...but they already state the inlet and outlet size
"Inlet Size: 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Size: 1 3/4 in.
Tube Size: 1 1/4 in. "

i was wondering what steps should i go about building another vmount set up the right way? like get the radiator to fit first? then duct near the radiator then get the intercooler in w/ piping and duct more?... my other set up i just pretty much eyeballed everything and did it all at once...

also do you guys know where i can get material for custom endtanks or even what material to get? does anyone know a place where i can get like thicker sheetmetal or something for a good price...homedepo sells really thin pieces.. i want something that doesnt flex as much

-thanks

if the outlet and inlet are already stated it is a choice between the width of the tubes in the core...instead of having four core rads griffin makes larger tubes in thier cores

i have used http://www.metalsdepot.com/ for getting my aluminum and steel for fabbing brackets and ducting

The radiator is great way better than stock and way cheaper than koyo

currently running a ducted but not Vmounted setup in my 240

IAM_SO_sLOw
09-08-2006, 11:52 PM
^^
so would the 1, 1/4 be better than 1 inch?

Slidin240Wayz
10-21-2006, 02:33 PM
Ignore...It's cross flow, I need downflow cores.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D26241%2DX&N=700+4294839040+400030+4294810996+4294891681+4294 792702+4294883015+115&autoview=sku

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/gri-1-26241-x_w.jpg

The outlets are reversed for a good reason. The radiator outlets should be pointing up so if you flip this around, you have what you need. So now there is less of a need to cut and re-weld the ends. Now I need to find out if the outlet sizes match.

Carlos

sil_8t
10-21-2006, 03:35 PM
This is a nice DIY mod for people who desire quick spool like me. I would like to try that radiator + spearco core w/ custom endtanks. it just sounds so time consuming.

Dr. Moreau
10-21-2006, 03:42 PM
I think I found the correct radiator for the setup...

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D26241%2DX&N=700+4294839040+400030+4294810996+4294891681+4294 792702+4294883015+115&autoview=sku

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/gri-1-26241-x_w.jpg

The outlets are reversed for a good reason. The radiator outlets should be pointing up so if you flip this around, you have what you need. So now there is less of a need to cut and re-weld the ends. Now I need to find out if the outlet sizes match.

Carlos
even if they don't, they could easily be reduced w/ a little welding

Slidin240Wayz
10-21-2006, 03:42 PM
I am trying to come up with a package for the S-chassis. It should be completed by the end of winter.

I will be using this IC, because the other one requires cutting into the radiator support.

http://images.andale.com/f2/105/104/15071119/1134039216052_1133115471143_RX7_IC5.JPG

Carlos

Slidin240Wayz
10-21-2006, 03:44 PM
even if they don't, they could easily be reduced w/ a little welding

Not really down for more customization than need be. I am trying to keep cost down as low as possible.

Carlos

sil_8t
10-21-2006, 04:00 PM
thats what i was getting at. Try to make it as DIY as possible with the least amount on fabbing. Must remember time is money.

Carlos, that would be a nice intercooler but im shooting for about 270hp max w/ t28. that IC would be a bit larger than nessesary. plus the end tanks should be going straight up (relatively speaking) right?

Dr. Moreau
10-21-2006, 04:02 PM
just keep us updated carlos. btw i imagine you could also get a silicone reducer + t-bolt clamps if the inlets don't match.

also what about ducting for those w/ aftermarket bumpers w/ larger openings?

sil_8t
10-21-2006, 04:07 PM
Ducting shouldnt be that hard with sheet metal on the sides. I dig that hood with ducting coming out. i personally think a vented hood is must. But def. keep this updated!

ill test the beta version if i must.....sigh.......lol

Slidin240Wayz
10-21-2006, 04:09 PM
thats what i was getting at. Try to make it as DIY as possible with the least amount on fabbing. Must remember time is money.

Carlos, that would be a nice intercooler but im shooting for about 270hp max w/ t28. that IC would be a bit larger than nessesary. plus the end tanks should be going straight up (relatively speaking) right?

just keep us updated carlos. btw i imagine you could also get a silicone reducer + t-bolt clamps if the inlets don't match.

also what about ducting for those w/ aftermarket bumpers w/ larger openings?

True. That IC about the same size if not smaller than the Greddy FMIC which ALOT of people run on their stock setups. I can go Spearco IC's but then that would cost about $3-500 more in the end.

I have looked for a reducer, but it's is difficult to find one in that small of a diameter. The smallest I have found was a 2 inch from somthing a little larger. I will keep looking for the optimal radiator. The stock size radiator is 17.25 inches tall. Since this one has to be on an angle I need something in the 15 inch range but I can't go much smaller in order to keep performance high for a daily setup.

As for the ducting, I will most likely utilize the frame rails and possible spacers to close the gap if need be.



Carlos

Slidin240Wayz
10-21-2006, 04:42 PM
My OCD self can't ignore this topic. I went to make some measurements of the Koyo I have now.

Overall height- app. 21 inches

core- h x w - 14 x 25

upper outlet diameter- app 36 mm - less than 1.5 inches, more than 1.25 inches.

If you can find a radiator that has an overall height of 17-19 inches please post it up.

Carlos

IAM_SO_sLOw
10-21-2006, 05:01 PM
hey carlos... would this radiator work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-55241-X&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
pretty much same as the one you posted a few posts up except the outlets are on the proper side...

btw.. whats the difference between crossflow and downflow?

Slidin240Wayz
10-21-2006, 06:11 PM
hey carlos... would this radiator work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-55241-X&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
pretty much same as the one you posted a few posts up except the outlets are on the proper side...

btw.. whats the difference between crossflow and downflow?

Hey,
This one will not work. I mentioned before the radiator will have to be flipped around so there are no air bubble on the lower radiator hose; the outlets have to be opposite the SR ones. If I can find one with middle outlets, it can be an option for both SR/KA compatability.

I searched over 100 radiators on SummitRacing...nothing.

Crossflow cores run horizontally while downflow cores run vertically.

Downflow
http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/21/05/0a_1.JPG

Crossflow
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/gri-1-26241-x_w.jpg

Carlos

IAM_SO_sLOw
10-22-2006, 05:31 AM
what if you like reweld the lower hose to be at a 45degree angle? would that get rid of the air bubble?
does the radiators HAVE to be downflow?

sil_8t
10-22-2006, 06:44 AM
http://www.siliconhoses.com/content.asp?inc=product&catalog=0022S&cat=0022S
reducers are right here.

Slidin240Wayz
10-22-2006, 08:13 AM
what if you like reweld the lower hose to be at a 45degree angle? would that get rid of the air bubble?
does the radiators HAVE to be downflow?

It could, but that would be more fabrication which would cost more money. A lower priced radiator will help offset the customization cost. Alot of people with koyos would be without a car if it was their daily. Plus I would have easier access to the waternecks with the radiator outlets up top. I already have a plan for the upper hose(s) which should work wonderfly. As for the bottom, it should not be that difficult and I already have something in mind. I need things to have their personal space and the silicone hose setup alone is running from $100-200.

Carlos

IAM_SO_sLOw
10-22-2006, 02:24 PM
o ok...hmm... i think im going to it out..by modding the lower hose... umm so would i have to use downflow radiators or would cross be fine?

Slidin240Wayz
10-22-2006, 05:31 PM
o ok...hmm... i think im going to it out..by modding the lower hose... umm so would i have to use downflow radiators or would cross be fine?

It might have been mentioned before. Maybe someone who knows can chime in. I really don't have time to search around right now.

Carlos

ps thanks for that webiste for the silicone hoses

driftstyre
10-22-2006, 07:06 PM
Crossflow rads are fine in v-mount applications. I guess the only downside would be a smaller width core to fit the tanks on each side but it could be increased in height to compensate. Here is a Subaru we did the fabrication for in which a cross flow core was used. It has never had an issue with cooling.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/968-2/vmnt.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/978-2/333.JPG
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/998-2/side1.jpg

Slidin240Wayz
10-22-2006, 07:31 PM
Bill (!?!?!?),
I love the fabrication your shop does. I would love to stop by your shop one day. Would that setup work on a daily? Thanks for showing the radiator outlets, it has perfect for me to explain myself.


In regards to the crossflow radiator, we have 1 person with alot of experience whoe says yes, but I need that clarification on the street side of it.

If I get more positive responses for the crossflow, then we have a winner for the prototype.

Carlos

Modern
10-22-2006, 07:37 PM
hey guys/girls i had a quick question about aerodynamics of this install. i was wondering about the air going under the car creating lift (red lines). if anyone could shed some light on the aerodynamic part of this install that would be great. thanks.

guilty


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/ModernGTR/Ducting4.jpg

Slidin240Wayz
10-22-2006, 08:16 PM
I don't think the radiator is solid enough to create lift. Maybe infinitismly. If you are that concerned, get a skid plate or if you are even more of a pimp, get an entire cover for the bottom; from the bumper to the firewall.

Carlos

Modern
10-22-2006, 10:19 PM
I don't think the radiator is solid enough to create lift. Maybe infinitismly. If you are that concerned, get a skid plate or if you are even more of a pimp, get an entire cover for the bottom; from the bumper to the firewall.

Carlos


but the whole point of doing a v mount is for cooling efficiency..so i dont see why you would block the air comming from the radiator. the air needs to vent somewhere right?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/ModernGTR/Ducting43.jpg

and ps im not worried about the radiator creating lift but more the air going under the car.

Slidin240Wayz
10-22-2006, 10:33 PM
[QUOTE=Modern]but the whole point of doing a v mount is for cooling efficiency..so i dont see why you would block the air comming from the radiator. the air needs to vent somewhere right? [QUOTE]

I will keep that in mind.

Carlos

blu808
10-22-2006, 10:43 PM
There really is no need for a v mount setup on drift cars besides the marginally shorter IC piping. For road racing its cool. But from what i have noticed it isnt as practical because if you crash your car will have alot more down time.

They look cool though when they are done correctly.

Modern
10-22-2006, 10:54 PM
[QUOTE=Modern]but the whole point of doing a v mount is for cooling efficiency..so i dont see why you would block the air comming from the radiator. the air needs to vent somewhere right? [QUOTE]

I will keep that in mind.

Carlos

please. if i have offended you then i apologize. i like the idea of a v-mount but i would just like to understand more or show the cons of having one. thank you all for replying and please understand that i am not trying to upset anyone, just trying to gain more knowledge

Slidin240Wayz
10-22-2006, 10:58 PM
haha, take a chill pill bro. I wasn't even thinking about taking offense to that. The point behind the creation of a setup is gettign feedback and I thank you for that. Keep the ideas coming.

Carlos

IAM_SO_sLOw
10-23-2006, 12:28 AM
so would this be a good radiator to use?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D55241%2DX&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
also would i still need a breather tank?

the head
10-23-2006, 07:55 AM
so would this be a good radiator to use?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D55241%2DX&N=700+4294810996+115&autoview=sku
also would i still need a breather tank?

you will need tapered hoses (larger on the radiator end then the motor end) or flex hose with multiple adapter ends I am running no breather tank and use that radiator you need to dent in one tank or the other a little (about 1/2") to get it to fit betweent the rails also it is shorter than the stock piece so when you make the brackets to hold it your top mount will drop about 2 inches or so.

Josh
10-23-2006, 08:29 AM
done right ;)

http://usera.imagecave.com/grimmerz32tt/0056.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/grimmerz32tt/osw_easter362.jpg

WhiteGLX
10-23-2006, 08:46 AM
done right ;)

didnt matt from import intelligence build that car? and didnt the front TC rods basically break off the car because too much of the lower rad support was cut off and not reinforced? All that cutting....needs alot of extra bracing/reinforcing.

Josh
10-23-2006, 08:58 AM
didnt matt from import intelligence build that car? and didnt the front TC rods basically break off the car because too much of the lower rad support was cut off and not reinforced? All that cutting....needs alot of extra bracing/reinforcing.

Yes, yes and the car is no longer.. it was stiped and cut up... I am searching for a new shell right now and it will be done correctly instead of ghetto fabing the power brace to make up for the rad support. I have a s15 rad support I am going to use. I was not refering to the method used I was refering to how the rad and IC are setup. The great things about Vmounts is the throttle response... I dont understand why people place the IC so far away from the block extending the piping ... :duh:

Slidin240Wayz
10-23-2006, 02:44 PM
I noticed that there was no rad support, well very little. My goal is to keep all of the support. I am getting excited to get this project started soon.

Carlos

IAM_SO_sLOw
10-23-2006, 05:44 PM
i was just wondering where are you guys getting intercooler cores from? i been searching around.... i found a few that are perfect for my setup...but the prices are around 300$

NemeGuero
11-26-2006, 05:08 PM
Carlos, how's the project coming along?

yokotas13
11-26-2006, 05:13 PM
i was just wondering where are you guys getting intercooler cores from? i been searching around.... i found a few that are perfect for my setup...but the prices are around 300$
you gotta pay to play

McRussellPants
11-26-2006, 05:17 PM
done right ;)

http://usera.imagecave.com/grimmerz32tt/0056.jpg


I rolfled.


message

yokotas13
11-26-2006, 05:20 PM
is it just me or is there alot of ducting mising?!?

CKAMC
11-26-2006, 05:45 PM
eww yeah now that I look at the setup a lot more... its missing quite a bit. The hood ducking looks correct but under that... I started to get this feeling :goyou:

lol

yeah needs inprovement... v-mount...ic how its cool...but just needs to be done correctly...for dori shit...idk...people crazy their shit too much so its like a double edge sword setup

cc4usmc
11-26-2006, 06:09 PM
Heres a crappy pic of my buddies setup. Im not on my computer or i'd have better pics.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/cc4usmc/1314792626_l.jpg

Kahl
11-26-2006, 09:52 PM
hey guys/girls i had a quick question about aerodynamics of this install. i was wondering about the air going under the car creating lift (red lines). if anyone could shed some light on the aerodynamic part of this install that would be great. thanks.

guilty


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/ModernGTR/Ducting4.jpg

Any lift that may be created would be counter by probably an equal(ish) amount of downforce from the air exiting the bonnet (hood). :)

Slidin240Wayz
11-26-2006, 10:12 PM
Carlos, how's the project coming along?

Neme,
The car is going into the shop by the end of the semester. My boy is going to do all the fabrication. I am still looking for the correct core because even the spearco core's outlets are only 2.25 inches wide. I don't want China'made but it might seem like I will have to go that route.


Carlos

edit:

Inspirational...
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/drfttruk/jared.jpg

Gavster
11-27-2006, 10:32 PM
This thread is great! Im working on vmount for my RB S14....never will you find this much space in the front of an RB'd S chassis car...somehow, I think it will still end up cramped!

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/gkurey/IMG_2063.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/gkurey/IMG_2064.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/gkurey/IMG_2065.jpg

I will def be using this thread to get and share ideas!!

20 til 3
11-27-2006, 10:42 PM
haha, sence you posted that pic of the midwest 240...here are a couple more if it

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/drfttruk/photoshoot056.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/drfttruk/photoshoot046.jpg

NemeGuero
11-28-2006, 12:49 AM
Shouldn't the angle be steeper on the rad? Create more flow THROUGH it?

Healtoeae86
11-28-2006, 01:28 AM
wow...all the bolt holes in the above pic have vanashed!

chmercer
11-28-2006, 03:51 AM
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4323/kang00r22pw4.jpg

hadnt seen this picture posted yet, here you go

im curious as to why so many of you guys want to do this

the point of a v mount is to split the airflow between the radiator and the intercooler, instead of making it pass through one to get to the other

but, have you guys measured the temperature differences of a radiator vs a radiator with an ic in front of it? its like what 2 degrees? this is assuming you duct the v mount stuff 100% correct otherwise its just going to be worse than stock, both on the intake temps and the coolant temps.

seems like a lot of work and chopping up your car to run a setup that has a good chance of sucking

dunno

also arent these all "7" mounts? not really shaped like a V hah

heres more pictures, of a race car

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0504_05z+2003_nissan_skyline_gtr_gt500+front_view. jpg

rad core is angled opposite direction of most everything in this thread, somthing to consider, since it looks like most everybody is doing this based on the premise of shorter intake piping, a forward facing radiator core would allow you to channel the air upward and out through the hood without trying to divide the airflow between two cores, this would still be using the same airflow to cool two cores like stock setups, but the radiator would be the first unit in the flow path, so you get your efficient cooling, and then you could duct it up into your top mount ic, which would have the short piping. i dunno. a consideration.

you could do it full racecar style like that car and use side mounts so you dont split the flow at all, but, nobody wants sidemount, haha

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0504_12z+2003_nissan_skyline_gtr_gt500+engine_view .jpg

this picture is like totally out of context for a street car, but, you can see some ducting and the rad core placement. *shrug*

redsuns3838
11-28-2006, 04:38 AM
seems theres quite a few ppl who are kidding themselves with their V mounts.

why use shitty radiator and a shitty IC core just to try and save money for the custom piping and (if they even bothered) ducting and vented hood?
just do front mount and do it right.


if ur grip racing, and have the cash to do it right, its probably worth it. I think its probably noticably better than front mounted setups if you are doing it right.
blah ill run through some old option mags and see if they have a comparison.

hotsoup_zero
11-28-2006, 09:26 AM
heres my S13 street car v-mount setup, been driving it for 2 years but don't use it much in traffic, currently running a 12" themo pull fan for the radiator, planning to run a pull fan for the IC, ducting with vent bonnet and water injection system to control the intake temp.

a few reasons i went with the v-mount
- throttle response
- weight balance
- water temp cooling efficiency
- front end crash friendly
- sleeper look

for anyone who wants more info, this is the place where i got it from 180sx intercooler kits (http://www.aseturbo.com/html/180sx_intercooler_kits.html)

heres a few pics for the setup

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j20/hotsoup_zero/CA18DET/DSCN5562.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j20/hotsoup_zero/CA18DET/DSCN4851.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j20/hotsoup_zero/CA18DET/dscn4853.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j20/hotsoup_zero/CA18DET/DSCN5486.jpg

WhiteGLX
11-28-2006, 10:09 AM
what size radiator are you using?

my setup is very similar, but your rad fits behind the support, mine goes through. What is holding the setup up....if your IC couplers were not there?

hotsoup_zero
11-28-2006, 10:39 AM
my radiator size is 550x330x30mm.

if you look at the 3rd pic, theres a few bolts to position the side plates to the headlight support, the radiator is sitting on the side plates and the frame of the car, this hold up the the whole setup pretty well.

have you got any pic, interested to see how you set yours up

WhiteGLX
11-28-2006, 11:18 AM
I used my old FMIC and i sold my KOYO in exchange for a smaller rad that could fit through the front support better. I also used my old IC pipes to make these because i didnt want to modify the IC and ruin air flow. I have been wantign to chanegmy IC pipe setup to be more compact, and i need to add a front brace to protect the Rad from braking in the event of an off track excursion. This setup has worked very well for this past year and the 4 track events i did, coolant temps were super low without the fan.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/V-mount/P1030031.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/V-mount/PDR_0804.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/V-mount/PDR_0768.jpg

xxchurroxx
11-28-2006, 11:33 AM
i have also been using my v-mount since march of 05 as a daily driver. i did in fact use a koyo, and i did not have any issues with overheating whatsoever. currently i have a FAL dual puller fan mounted through a toggle switch. and it is rare that i ever have to use it.
this is my second koyo, the first finally gave out after damaging it while crashing my car in a curb. if i would have had an FMIC and a vertically mounted rad, i would have lost the fmic and most likely the rad...so the v-mount saved me some time and money.
i did have the rad support slightly cut for the IC to fit. as far as the rad mounting, i recommend to have some sort of bushings or way for it to flex when mounted to the front lower subframe (the subframe was not cut in any way). the flaw with the first radiator was that there were tabs welded onto the subframe and BOLTED to the tabs on the radiator, thus allowing very little movement, and eventually breaking off the tab on the radiator.

here are a few pictures:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/My%20Car/CIMG0428.jpg
notice that there is also support on the top left post of the rad connected to engine bay. i know i need some ducting, but i have yet to find someone to fab something up since poor little me doesn't know how to weld.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/My%20Car/CIMG0427.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/My%20Car/q11.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/Misc/Picture145.jpg
notice how lower rad hose must be angled up (if you decide to use a koyo), the tab with the black stuff around it is the tab that did NOT break off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/Misc/06ed55cf.jpg
location of the inlet of the radiator, vice the stock location as pictured below:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/Misc/a7432198.jpg


hoped this helped a little bit.

xxchurroxx
11-28-2006, 11:39 AM
also, i am using a vis invader hood.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/My%20Car/q2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v370/xxchurroxx/My%20Car/t6.jpg

hotsoup_zero
11-28-2006, 01:12 PM
i'll take more pics and post them up later to show more details, currently i have everything out from the engine bay after a little front end accident, didn't touch mine v-mount at all, wouldnt be so lucky if i got a FMIC, so v-mount for the win :p

wannabe_drifter
03-13-2007, 08:23 AM
Just found a place where you can select any core with pretty much any tank possible
http://www.bellintercoolers.com/

xplicit240
03-13-2007, 08:46 AM
well in my opinion v mount set up doesnt really help out much. the dual 12 in fans from FAL will do the cooling job. your sacrificing size of intercooler. i think its more for looks than anything else. from what i heard copper cores for radiators actually cool better if you were to drift. they dissapate heat much faster.

MeSs
11-26-2007, 10:41 AM
This thread cant die :)
Can you please tell us how you run your radiator hoses? And what do you do with the filler cap/filling of fluid? (bah.. bad english.)
Really nice welding and setup :)
i have also been using my v-mount since march of 05 as a daily driver. i did in fact use a koyo, and i did not have any issues with overheating whatsoever. currently i have a FAL dual puller fan mounted through a toggle switch. and it is rare that i ever have to use it.
this is my second koyo, the first finally gave out after damaging it while crashing my car in a curb. if i would have had an FMIC and a vertically mounted rad, i would have lost the fmic and most likely the rad...so the v-mount saved me some time and money.
i did have the rad support slightly cut for the IC to fit. as far as the rad mounting, i recommend to have some sort of bushings or way for it to flex when mounted to the front lower subframe (the subframe was not cut in any way). the flaw with the first radiator was that there were tabs welded onto the subframe and BOLTED to the tabs on the radiator, thus allowing very little movement, and eventually breaking off the tab on the radiator.

here are a few pictures:

SILVIA_KIDs14.5
11-26-2007, 10:47 AM
well in my opinion v mount set up doesnt really help out much. the dual 12 in fans from FAL will do the cooling job. your sacrificing size of intercooler. i think its more for looks than anything else. from what i heard copper cores for radiators actually cool better if you were to drift. they dissapate heat much faster.
v mount is used for 2 things better cooling and less boost loss, kinda like subaru does with the top mounts

C-unit
12-03-2007, 05:51 PM
i am planning to do a V-mount when i get my engine set up too. I still very confuse how i should run the radiator. I dont really get how come the inlet and outlet need to face the top. Also the overflow tank and the rad cap. When should they be located. Anyone can help me out?? a diagram would be graet!!

steve shadows
12-03-2007, 06:30 PM
I have only see a small handful of V-mount set ups done correctly and even then I did not really see how it would be much more advantageous outside of bragging rights and marginal cooling increases (depending on front fascade).

98koukile
12-03-2007, 09:31 PM
DSG was building one when I went to their shop, they cut the upper rad support and then welded a solid rod, tubular frame which held the IC and closed the support again. Very well executed, as all their stuff is

keMz
01-17-2009, 10:54 PM
mean... those are some unique rides..

why go with the V mount over the front mount..

rbpowerds14
01-18-2009, 12:13 AM
mean... those are some unique rides..

why go with the V mount over the front mount..

di u not read? or do u just look at pics?

jimmytango00
01-18-2009, 01:20 AM
this is my set up, still being worked on. We're redoing the end tanks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/sergis/bay.jpg

boozels
01-23-2009, 03:01 PM
I got my v-mount setup up and running.
My temps at the track are much cooler and consistent.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k207/boozels/IMG_1585.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k207/boozels/IMG_1605.jpg

m4nfred
01-23-2009, 03:12 PM
might as well throw my setup on here

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q132/m4nfred/F20c%20Swap/vt.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q132/m4nfred/F20c%20Swap/vf.jpg

Om1kron
01-23-2009, 03:13 PM
i fucking feeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeel you bro on that wiring! lol

MeSs
02-05-2009, 12:28 PM
Mine, didnt turn out how i wanted it to be, because when i made the setup i went from s13 to s15 front end, then i had to angle the intercooler.. worked great tho, when finished no air went outside the radiator and intercooler..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v459/MeSs/15062008985.jpg

MisawaJason
02-05-2009, 04:57 PM
does that even work at all. Looks like all the air is hitting the bottom of the I/C

Om1kron
02-05-2009, 05:17 PM
Lololol wtf!!!

MeSs
02-06-2009, 09:08 AM
the v-shape still is there, the air doesnt have anywhere else to travel than thru the radiator/intercooler. But, it was right when the s13 frontend was on it.. i had to move it up because the s15 lamps where to big.
Anyways.. I tried!! :) some of you will say i failed, but i think it
worked great to, but if the intercooler where in the right angle im sure it would work even better.. The reason i where doing it was the intercooler piping, way to long.

neukin
04-10-2009, 10:30 PM
We made a vmount kit for s13 and everything is great with the intercooler pretty much flat on top and just the rad (22x19 core double pass) at a large angle. The fins on the rad are pointing up once angled so that reduces air going in so alot goes through the flat intercooler (12x18 core from garrett- 700hp )as long as you build your vent on the hood correct. The vent will help create a good vaccum effect to pull air out. With stock thermostat the s13 setup runs like 140dF (yes i have a digi gauge installed) i have to block some rad off when on hwy or even daily driving. Once on track it hits like 180dF depending. When we built it its a floating design so there are only 4 bolts that bolt the whole kit in and two bolts for this bar just to "support" the rad at bottom. Drifting or road racing the vmount its great. Intercooler comes out by just loosening two tbolt clamps and rad comes out with two bolts removed and hoses off. The aluminum scoop is even installed on the stock hood with only 2 rivits haha. player!

http://www.neukin.com/v/vspfiles/photos/neukinns13vmk-6.jpghttp://www.neukin.com/v/vspfiles/photos/neukinns13vmk-3.jpg

teamsprock
04-30-2009, 03:24 PM
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/Cdoria/V-mount/1.jpg

Anyone know where I can pick a raditor hose fitting like the one shown here for the outlet? I have not messed around much looking at my stock one, but that could defianley help me out with running my radiator hoses on my v-mount. Are the bolt patterns for those some what standardized, I know I have seen various radiator outlets before at the auto store.

dftsilvia
04-30-2009, 06:07 PM
forest wangs setup, pretty clean

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/dftsilvia/Picture013.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/dftsilvia/Picture014.jpg

k0013
04-30-2009, 06:48 PM
the main reasoning behing v mount setups is to decrease the frontal area of the car that is exposed to oncoming airflow while still providing for adiquate airflow to all cooling equipment. IE making the front opennings as small as possible while still maintaining airflow. notice on cars such as the 300zx and rx7, both of which have angled radiators from the factory and short front overhangs. This is to improve front aerodynamic characteristics as much as possible. As many of the others have stated before proper ducting of this system is key to its design effeciency. Most times , in race cars where this technique is used the most, propper ducting for incoming and outgoing airflow is taken into account when designing these systems and that is what the comercial tuning world has been emulating in their projects. As far as most drifers are concerned the main benifit is added security when involved in front impacts but for those of you who don't want to run fronge bumpers with huge obnoxious openings, just for the sake of airflow, take this passage in mind.

derek king
05-01-2009, 03:28 PM
is anyone removing the maf from before the turbo and running it blow through right before the throttle body>? i just did this and am having some cut out problems at full throttle. car is at 10psi pretty much all stock besides the v mount and full exhaust

jdm styles
12-25-2011, 02:35 PM
any pics with a inline 6 trying to get some idea for my 91 240 with a 1jz in it

godrifttoday
12-25-2011, 08:38 PM
is anyone removing the maf from before the turbo and running it blow through right before the throttle body>? i just did this and am having some cut out problems at full throttle. car is at 10psi pretty much all stock besides the v mount and full exhaust

The mad need to be several inches before the throttle body

jdm styles
12-26-2011, 11:09 PM
huh
also do you have to have a hood vents right about the intercooler or can they be back a little

rbs14kouki
12-27-2011, 08:51 AM
We made this on my friend car !!!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/247957_10150647398420361_825760360_18815997_586620 _n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253753_10150647400090361_825760360_18816025_412337 9_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281586_10150737934925361_825760360_19648974_467189 7_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/283844_10150743386640361_825760360_19716188_385792 0_n.jpg

jdm styles
02-11-2012, 10:58 AM
how do u fill the rad ? or where should the rad cap be located? im curently waiting for some parts. but i will be doing this on a 91 240sx with a 1j and s15 front i am also tubing the front and was wondering if there are any similar setups out there ? i just really dont no where to mount rad cap ? or could i cut the one off my koyo and weld it onto the 1j water neck ? if doing this will i be able to properly bleed or fill the system .....

cole d
03-17-2012, 08:50 AM
Never seen a picture with a 6cyl S chasis V-mount. Would love to see your car once you finish it.

jdm styles
04-05-2012, 07:01 PM
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n486/slidestyles/IMG_0303.jpg

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n486/slidestyles/IMG_0304.jpg

Pinggg
04-05-2012, 07:29 PM
^^ That's sick dude!

turbo2nr
12-27-2012, 09:26 AM
Thinking about going v-mount, any one have a nice clean s14 v mount setup??

rbs14kouki
12-27-2012, 05:05 PM
Under Suzuki sr22vet s15 / track record @ tsukuba

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa74/rbs14kouki/random%20cars/image-4_zps555c9a62.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa74/rbs14kouki/random%20cars/image-4_zps21fc8529.jpg

Croustibat
12-27-2012, 06:04 PM
Vmounts work great,when they are done well,which is not easy at all. Want easy and efficient ? Stack the rads. Every manufacturer does that for that very reason: cheap + effective. Unless you need that very little edge, stick with stacking ...

turbo2nr
01-17-2013, 09:39 AM
http://www.friends-power.com/blog/photo/IMG_0843.JPG
http://www.friends-power.com/blog/photo/IMG_1288.JPG
ahh japan

twinspool
01-28-2013, 10:56 AM
^man I am loving that set up esp how they have that swirl pot in there making that an easy fill up point as well.

PandaWorkz
01-28-2013, 10:58 AM
clean bro looks really good

blades13.5
09-15-2016, 01:07 PM
My setup doesn't have any issues. Feel free to message me with any questions. Its very simple, minus the fabwork.