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Old 08-30-2006, 11:26 AM   #1
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V-Mount Set-Up

Ok guys... been thinking about it for a long time... just wanting to get the right parts and have it looking clean, like it belongs.
Currently I have called upon the Gods of Japan to help out (JUN & ARC) so you know I'm not going to do something stupid. Jun is consulting on the how to and little tid bits of advice, and ARC is quoting price on a Custom IC... basically just the IC core and tanks you see below.

Although ARC has displayed a V-mount Set-up for the SR20DET at Tokyo Auto Salon in Jan. they are not releasing for sale! So I have been looking at it very closly to see what they did.


Yes its beautiful!!
The first thing I have noticed is that the IC sits lower so that the Radiator support doesn't need to be cut... like the Signal Auto Cars.
Second is I think the Radiator is slighly smaller... also the water enters from the top on the turbo side and exits from the botom on the intake side... completly backwards from the stock set-up.
Oil cooler is on the Botom of the Radiator but that doesn't really matter, as its not part of the set-up.

I am looking at getting a Koyo Radiator and have it chopped up once the IC arrives... the logic behind this is simple... Koyo is all Aluminum so it shouldn't be hard to cut the top off to make shorter and relocate the in/ out ports as needed... and they are cheep if I fudge up the first one. Oh yeah a Bubbler or resivor Tank is needed on the Radiator because you cant have the Cap sitting at an angle or below the inlet to the engine... you will never get water back in the engine... Cap has to be higher than the Inlet on the engine.

I have seen very little info on V-mounts for the S-chassis so I thought I would share not only what I am working on but some of the info that has been passed through me. This is not a question if the V-Mount is better than Front Mount so lets not go there... If you guys have Light to shead on this topic, please do so. This is universal for KA and SR so no engine bashing.

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Old 08-30-2006, 12:41 PM   #2
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+1 for being different.
I heart ARC! too bad the US doesn't get some dope ass v-mount ic.
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:09 PM   #3
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good luck with this bro, i want to see pictures and updates of the progress.
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:11 PM   #4
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I am looking at getting a Koyo Radiator and have it chopped up once the IC arrives... the logic behind this is simple... Koyo is all Aluminum so it shouldn't be hard to cut the top off to make shorter and relocate the in/ out ports as needed... and they are cheep if I fudge up the first one.

Main problem I see at a quick glance is the stock radiators (and replacements, such as the Koyo) are vertical, meaning the tanks are on the top and bottom. You'll need to find another all aluminum radiator from someone (Koyo, Griffin, etc) that is horizontal.
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:13 PM   #5
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im running a vmount set up right now...if i had a chance to redo this i would do it totally different...this is how it looks...ebay intercooler...stock radiator..custom intercooler piping...and a few little mods here and there... im running altima fans behind the radiator.. i have some ducts i made from sheet metal...

if i had a chance to redo it.. i would buy a good intercooler core and get custom end tanks..which would reduce the intercooler piping by alot and look way cleaner.... i would also find a shorter radiator...it was hard for me to find people to do my welding and customizing which is why i couldnt do it this way...and had to end up doing it all ghetto... also i didnt have lots of money to do it.... i ended up spending around 300$...

my car right now doesnt overheat unless i leave it sitting and running for along time w/o fans on...but the temp goes back to normal when i turn the fans on or start moving again.... i


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Old 08-30-2006, 02:17 PM   #6
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i forgot to mention that my fans are extremely close to my pulley... you cant tell from the picture but... you should run extremely slim fans and have a shorter radiator
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:19 PM   #7
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There is a guy from VA or MD on here (and FA) that made a thread or 2 about his setup and dutcting. Forget his name, but I've seen him at VIR (Virginia International Raceway) before. Wait, I think it's WhiteGLX or something like that. Anyway, he did it, and his setup, esp. his ducting is kick ass. I did quite a bit of research on it a year or so ago. There is a lot of info on FA about it. One guy on there work for C&R (I think) and has a lot of info on it. Basically what I found out is it boils down to doing it right. It's not worth it unless you go all the way, meaning GOOD ducting - both entry and exit ducting. The exit is just as important.
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Old 08-30-2006, 03:38 PM   #8
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Subscribed. Definately interested. *a
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Old 08-30-2006, 04:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
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if i had a chance to redo it.. i would buy a good intercooler core and get custom end tanks..which would reduce the intercooler piping by alot and look way cleaner.... i would also find a shorter radiator...it was hard for me to find people to do my welding and customizing which is why i couldnt do it this way...and had to end up doing it all ghetto... also i didnt have lots of money to do it.... i ended up spending around 300$...

Yeah man, Im not trying to be a dick since you tried instead of talking like me and everyone else, but the way it is now ain't fresh at all.

The top 1/4th aint doing crap, theres no low pressure zone behind the IC, It doesn't look like theres enough ducting for there to be a high pressure zone infront of either of the cores.



*IF* I do it I'll be using an Evo Core with semi re-welded endtanks and I'll be slotting my radiator through the rad hole on the core support so bottom is parrallel with the end of the frame rails. I might notch the upper core support a little but it won't be cut out completely. Duct with some sheet .050 aluminum, and make a semi decent guard out of box steel for the bottom and be done. Piping and rad hose is easy as any other option.

Key to any kind of heat exchanger is pressure differential. The biggest reason the V-mount is superior is its easier to duct than a front mount.

It doesn't take Smaller Crossflow Rads and special endtanks, but they can defiantely be benificial. If you already have a radiator or for some wack reason have to stick with the OEM I could def see getting out under 350$ if you have someone to weld for you.
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Old 08-30-2006, 04:51 PM   #10
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Here is a link to a local guy who has v-mount in his car

http://www.az240sx.org/forums/index....st=0&hl=vmount




hope it helps somewhat
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:21 PM   #11
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door hinge headlight covers is a good state of tune.
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Old 08-30-2006, 05:47 PM   #12
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here is my setup in a corolla. And for one I have way less room then you guys for the intercooler, and for the radiator.





the hardest part is to make the hood latch, because your radiator will technically be in the way of the support under the latch (bar that goes down from latch to bottom mounting point).

So to resolve this the latch had to have an additional support to make sure it stays in the correct position.

Other things to consider, is the coolant line/piping must be free of obstructions, and not rub onto any other parts. If your hoses rub it'll potentially be liable for a hole in the future.

Other then that, it's not that hard, but it does take some welding, or money spent to have them welded up. And technically mine isn't a V-mount it's a "7"
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:34 PM   #13
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dude how is the response with the bov right on the intercooler?
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:49 PM   #14
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problem with most people who decide to make they're own grassroots VMIC, is ducting. i'm looking at both that S13 VMIC and AE86 VMIC, and there's no ducting on the sides nor hatch latch area.

where do you think the air is going to go? where ever there's less resistance. i'm not surprised that you're overheating at a standstill because VMICs do tend to heatsoak. but even in motion, your setups aren't working very efficiently. and another thing that would help is a vented hood. one that's functional with the VMIC setup that creates vacuum to draw air out.

i've already built a setup for an FC3S and FD3S. tested and tuned. with proper ducting, vented hood, and electric fans, there shouldn't be any overheating at all.
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Old 08-31-2006, 12:33 AM   #15
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sorry was an old pic. I have ducting...
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Old 08-31-2006, 12:51 AM   #16
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wow one of the best threads in the past few months.
i definately dig the side ducts for that ARC setup. make sure you fab something up similar to that.

but man that is an ill looking Vmount setup.
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Old 08-31-2006, 01:34 AM   #17
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did arc just introduce a bolt on v-mount setup? v mounts havent been talked about on zilvia since over a yr ago when there was a lot of hype in it when pictures first surfaced of v-mount.
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Old 08-31-2006, 09:18 AM   #18
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One of the first ones I ever saw:

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Old 08-31-2006, 09:23 AM   #19
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The ARC setup look crazy but the IC sit way too low to work well with a vented hood.

Drew, I am currently working on a v-mount setup. I am in the planning stages and it needs a fair share of welding. The ducting should be separated in half so the IC and rad have their own air currents.

I am doing my best to keep most if not all of my radiator support.

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Old 08-31-2006, 10:04 AM   #20
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The ARC one will work still.... just needs more ducking to the vented hood
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:04 AM   #21
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The ARC V-Mount set-up was displayed at TAS but they are NOT selling it, and I have heard nothing from them on a release date... it will cost out the A$$ too as much of the ARC stuff does.. especially the Radiators which you will need.

I'm not going cheep or crazy expensive... I just want to do a very clean, well thought out set-up. I expect to spend the same amount you would on a normal FMIC, Radiator, Hose, etc... This is not something I have working right now... I simply have the resources, and doing the research first. The SR20 isn't even in the car yet.

I have a Vented Hood & Fenders on Sea Freight now that should be arriving first week Oct. I also have a Garage Defend Cooling Panel... another reason why I don't want to cut the Radiator Support. There are several Sheet Metal and Air Conditioner places near by... I'm sure I can throw some paper at them to make a nice Ducting system. Also looking at pricing on Inconel Piping... its hard to weld so welding will be minimal and I may go with the BOV on the IC... everything is so much in the air right now.

JDM Junkyard - your AE86 is awsome!! Beautifull set-up.

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Old 08-31-2006, 10:22 AM   #22
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Quote:
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The ARC V-Mount set-up was displayed at TAS but they are NOT selling it, and I have heard nothing from them on a release date... it will cost out the A$$ too as much of the ARC stuff does.. especially the Radiators which you will need.

I'm not going cheep or crazy expensive... I just want to do a very clean, well thought out set-up. I expect to spend the same amount you would on a normal FMIC, Radiator, Hose, etc... This is not something I have working right now... I simply have the resources, and doing the research first. The SR20 isn't even in the car yet.

I have a Vented Hood & Fenders on Sea Freight now that should be arriving first week Oct. I also have a Garage Defend Cooling Panel... another reason why I don't want to cut the Radiator Support. There are several Sheet Metal and Air Conditioner places near by... I'm sure I can throw some paper at them to make a nice Ducting system. Also looking at pricing on Inconel Piping... its hard to weld so welding will be minimal and I may go with the BOV on the IC... everything is so much in the air right now.

JDM Junkyard - your AE86 is awsome!! Beautifull set-up.

Peace
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V-Mount for the fucking win.
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:33 AM   #23
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:45 AM   #24
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Theres quite a few of people in washington running VMOUNTS.
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Old 08-31-2006, 10:55 AM   #25
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I like the radiators. That way you can angle the ic down and under the radiator core and still have room for a smaller radiator.

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Old 08-31-2006, 11:17 AM   #26
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Took some measurements for the IC Core and Tanks... basically matching the width of the IC with the Radiator.

> Center ARC Logo
> 80mm Inlet and Outlet Pipes
> Pipes facing upward - logo side
> MO79 Core
> 500mm w/o endtanks
> 670mm w/ endtanks
> 300mm w/o mounting tabs
> 330mm w/ mounting tabs (2 on bottom side only)

Stock Radiator size is 18" x 26.5" x 2" (457mm x 673mm x 51mm)
From the stock mounting location on Bottom, to the engine you get about 9.5" (241mm) from Core support... this leaves about 6" from the now top of Radiator to the Hood... plenty of room for a 80mm IC core.
For the SR20 I see very little obstructing the angle of the Radiator... However, on the KA the Fan pully and Water Inlet Pipe sits out a bit far... still plenty of room to play with on top but angle is minimal.

BTW... I failed to mention... I'll be keeping the AC.
**I only have one question in regards to the AC. Is it vital that the Condensor stay the same size, and "If Not" can a Long Oil Cooler Type Core be used in place??? I know there will be some fabricating involved but its very minimal from what I see. Also the Condensor is smaller than the Radiator so it would be possable to revers the set-up and place it behind the Radiator. Any Thoughts??

peace
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Old 08-31-2006, 11:25 AM   #27
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Damn, still keeping AC. Aren't the lines solid? Well you said you had an AC guy around you so I guess he can do something about that. Also, you have alot of angle room for the radiator but my concern would be the belts and pulleys because it would be best to angle the IC with the front of it (closest to the nose of the car) to be upwards.
Like this guy did...


but he cut through all of the core which is a no no in my book.

Also, the garage defend panel will be useless if ducted correctly, only the air in the opening should go to the rad and IC.

Carlos
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Old 08-31-2006, 11:31 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown
Main problem I see at a quick glance is the stock radiators (and replacements, such as the Koyo) are vertical, meaning the tanks are on the top and bottom. You'll need to find another all aluminum radiator from someone (Koyo, Griffin, etc) that is horizontal.
I am missing the point. Can you elaborate on this?
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Old 08-31-2006, 11:47 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz
but he cut through all of the core which is a no no in my book.

Are you serious?! I hope his car is a track only car...even if it is, its still crazy
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Old 08-31-2006, 12:04 PM   #30
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Second is I think the Radiator is slighly smaller... also the water enters from the top on the turbo side and exits from the botom on the intake side... completly backwards from the stock set-up.
I just realized that setting the radiator up like that is a bad move... Hot water should be introduced from the bottom so that it is being cooled before it enters the engine from the top. With nothing holding the Hot water in the Radiator (gravity) the flow will be to quick and cooling will not be efficent even with a good Thermo.

Radiator will be about 1" from the belts... i'm also planning on gold plating the areas effected by head sink.
I really dont want to do a Fully Boxed-in Racecar style ducting... hood is vented anyway. Only going to box in the sides so air can't go around the set-up... upper and lower is basicly self controled.

Peace
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