Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Gremo]

Anyone have the guage cluster pinout for the 180sx type x? Iv heard that the 95 96 maxima was the same but I'm unsure. Thanks

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[3NDLESS]

In a FI setup, is there any benefit running anti-reversion chambers / scavengers? N/A application benefits but I'm not sure with FI.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by 3NDLESS

In a FI setup, is there any benefit running anti-reversion chambers / scavengers? N/A application benefits but I'm not sure with FI.

Think about your question for a moment, and how the Bernouli principles work with exhaust. Think first on what a turbo does, then a sc. Now consider these against your basic NA set up.

I know you have figured the answer by now since you realized both NA and SC benefit from anti reversion and turbo does not. You have also figured out why, as the turbo uses the exhaust to spin, while na and sc both push through a regular exhaust system.

NA and SC benefit from tuned headers with good merge collectors, while turbo just dumps into a free flowing tube.

That's about as simple as it gets, and hopefully you had your answer just thinking about it.

[Jacob Butler]

So ive just finished cleaning all the grounds I could find and the voltage at my harness connectors no longer fluctuates. Now it reads 1.3 volts no matter how many times I turn the key on/off or crank the car. Any ideas?

[zfmjets]

I removed the passenger side of the fender harness in order to paint my engine bay. I fished the harness back into the passenger footwell, but I can’t remember where these plugs go or what they do. I looked all around under the dash and don’t see anything.

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by zfmjets

I removed the passenger side of the fender harness in order to paint my engine bay. I fished the harness back into the passenger footwell, but I can’t remember where these plugs go or what they do. I looked all around under the dash and don’t see anything.

Try looking behind the passenger kick panel, to the right of where your right foot would rest.

[smoked240]

Pretty basic question but where do you guys recommend buying engines from these days? Looking to source another rb

[fresh_kouki]

Hey guys so i have my ka24de out of my 98 S14 at the moment and just got to replacing my thermostat. My question is what type of of sealer do i use with the paper gasket? Whats the proper procedure for replacing the thermostat? Do i put black rtv on the block or before and after the gasket before torquing back down? Thank you.

[hyde097]

I've recently bought an automatic S14 and was wondering what 5 speed manuals from what vehicles will swap into my car with relative ease. Excuse my ignorance, I've been scouring the interwebs for this info and I guess I'm just not looking in the right places.

Thanks

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by hyde097

I've recently bought an automatic S14 and was wondering what 5 speed manuals from what vehicles will swap into my car with relative ease. Excuse my ignorance, I've been scouring the interwebs for this info and I guess I'm just not looking in the right places.

Thanks

5-speed from a 240sx
Get the s14 KA24DE version

SR20det trans will fit but requires a bell housing swap

I also remember using baulk rings from a 98-02 Nissan Xtera transmission in an sr20det trans, so I suppose maybe that one would "work" but it might be 4wd fwiw do a 4wd swap ?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by fresh_kouki

Hey guys so i have my ka24de out of my 98 S14 at the moment and just got to replacing my thermostat. My question is what type of of sealer do i use with the paper gasket? Whats the proper procedure for replacing the thermostat? Do i put black rtv on the block or before and after the gasket before torquing back down? Thank you.

Anytime you pull something off the engine that has a gasket, whether its a paper or O-ring type or metal, you will want to have:

Brake-Cleaner "brakecleen"
Razor blades
paper towels (blue kind or sturdy/non-fuzz-flake type)

many FSM will call for these things or similar (FSM stands for factory service manual). For example Chevrolet 2002 5.3L truck engine FSM says use Aceton and a razorblade to remove head gasket material from the deck, the to blow out all bolt holes with compressed air etc... They use "acetone" as the solvent but brake cleaner would also work and is similar type of solvent.



The trick to getting any kind of gasket to "work" is to fully clean and dry the area, and make sure the surface is "flat" (no strange protrusions). So I will wipe with brake cleaner SEVERAL TIMES, until I am 100% confident the entire area is nice and dry. dry dry dry. and clean. The razor blade helps you scrape old materials or corrosion or whatever you find there. Carefully not to "dig into" the surface, or gouge it with the razor blade, especially aluminum surfaces. Just take your time it isn't difficult, just time consuming. Avoid using any kind of rotating tools, because it can create a surface irregularity. Sometimes you can't avoid using them when the surface is really bad, though. So its kind of up to you to decide how much "force/tools" to use to remove old debris. Least invasive methods are usually hand-operated tools, but sometimes electrical wire wheel or spinning discs are necessary.

Once all dry, flat, you can install the gasket. If you want to use "sealant" the most popular type is "permatax" silicones, and Toyota "grey". It has become something of a slang when people say "grey silicone" in the car world, because there is varying quality of "grey". Many agree that the OEM stuff (Honda/Toyota "grey") is the best. I have had great luck with ALL kinds, as long as the area is clean and dry. You can put a little on the block; you can put a little on the other side; if the FSM doesn't say exactly where to put it (sometimes there is a very specific place to put silicone on some engines) then its kind of up to you. I usually put just a very very very tiny bit on both sides if I feel like it will not be disturbed for a long time. On the other hand if I think I might be taking the part off again in the near future I won't use any silicone, because it can be tedious to remove in some places.

Biggest issue with silicone use is that people OVER-use it. You only want a little thin line, it takes years of practice for me to figure out exactly how much. Best thing to do is get some old car parts to practice on and see how badly it squeezes out of the corners (you wont want the silicone to squeeze out of the gasket area and into the engine).

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Think about your question for a moment, and how the Bernouli principles work with exhaust. Think first on what a turbo does, then a sc. Now consider these against your basic NA set up.

I know you have figured the answer by now since you realized both NA and SC benefit from anti reversion and turbo does not. You have also figured out why, as the turbo uses the exhaust to spin, while na and sc both push through a regular exhaust system.

NA and SC benefit from tuned headers with good merge collectors, while turbo just dumps into a free flowing tube.

That's about as simple as it gets, and hopefully you had your answer just thinking about it.

as a side note,

A turbine collector can be seen and used as an exhaust pulse tuning tool, by properly positioning correct length individual runners there are acoustic or pressure-related gains to be had, This is often done on 4-cylinder and inline engines because all of the exhaust tubes are together on one side; true divided "twin scroll" manifolds come to mind; it is far more difficult to do with say, an LS configuration, since some tubes need to come from both sides of the engine to feed a single turbo on one side if properly tuned to the firing order of the engine.

During part throttle there is surely a 'scavenging' benefit even in non-exhaust-tuned setups (i.e. log style or OEM manifolds), as the compressor is adding kinetic energy to the intake air path (as opposed to it being supplied through exhaust gas velocity) when the turbine is sized appropriately, which further assists clearing the cylinder during a part throttle/non boost situation and improves economy (efficiency) of the engine (auto manufacturers have been using turbos more and more for this reason on high economy small displacement engines).

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by fresh_kouki

Hey guys so i have my ka24de out of my 98 S14 at the moment and just got to replacing my thermostat. My question is what type of of sealer do i use with the paper gasket? Whats the proper procedure for replacing the thermostat? Do i put black rtv on the block or before and after the gasket before torquing back down? Thank you.

Wearing nitrile gloves, work a thin coating of ultra silver RTV into both sides of the gasket, and smooth it.

That's if you want a gasket. Otherwise, put a very thin layer of ultra grey on both (totally dry) surfaces.

VERY thin. Pretend you're icing an extremely tiny cake. When fully torqued, it should only have a continuous bead about a half millimeter in diameter squeeze out, uniformly, all the way around.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by hyde097

I've recently bought an automatic S14 and was wondering what 5 speed manuals from what vehicles will swap into my car with relative ease. Excuse my ignorance, I've been scouring the interwebs for this info and I guess I'm just not looking in the right places.

Thanks

For the money, if I was going to swap, a KA or SR trans would be the last thing I would get.
CD009 can be had for under 600 used, <1800 brand new from Nissan. Nothing will wake up a stock KA like this transmission and it's better gearing. Sure it's heavier, but it is so worth it when you do all the math

[th3manny]

I found an s15 wing for sale in my area and i was wondering how it would look on an s14. I've never seen the combo before. Sorry if this is posted in the wrong area, I'm new to this forum.

[fresh_kouki]

Thank you guys for all the great info on replacing gaskets. I currently have my ka24de out my car and got the intake manifold off. I was wondering where I can get all the coolant and vacuum hoses from or if it was even a good idea to replace? I live in a emissions county and not sure what I can delete from what I have to keep. Before I put the intake manifold back on what should I service and is silicone sealer needed or can I bolt it back up without?

[Kingtal0n]

sounds like you need to download and memorize the FSM for your car

[fresh_kouki]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

sounds like you need to download and memorize the FSM for your car

Let me do that...

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[Hoffman5982]

Does anyone know if I can rebuild a oe replacement(ie china) oil pump for a ka with oem nissan parts? Had to use one in a pinch when the timing chain destroyed the inside of my timing cover a few days before an event and since I'll be rebuilding the motor I'd like to rebuild it for peace of mind.

[Juucso]

Facebook 240SX groups told me to get either GK-Tech or PBM suspension arms and knuckles. What do you guys think? I've heard mixed reviews of both of these. I'd like to know what you would use and I'd prefer to get all the arms and knuckles from same company too.

[mau5trap]

Belt set recommendations for a ka24de? thanks in advance.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Juucso

Facebook 240SX groups told me to get either GK-Tech or PBM suspension arms and knuckles. What do you guys think? I've heard mixed reviews of both of these. I'd like to know what you would use and I'd prefer to get all the arms and knuckles from same company too.

It's easier to say don't use Circuit Sports. As you are going knuckles etc, just go PBM

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Belt set recommendations for a ka24de? thanks in advance.

OE Nissan. They go well over 200k miles. Need more proof of reliability?

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

It's easier to say don't use Circuit Sports. As you are going knuckles etc, just go PBM



OE Nissan. They go well over 200k miles. Need more proof of reliability?

Would you happen to have the part numbers?

[Ilya]

Recommendation help: I need injectors for my KA-T and I have a set of SR 370cc that are a bit rusty and the screens are broken.

Option 1: send the injectors to a flow/cleaning/rebuild place for ~120$

Option 2: Buy reman sti yellows from eBay with a 2 year warranty (https://m.ebay.com/itm/4x-New-Subaru...01?_mwBanner=1) + pigtails.

[Ilya]

Double post

[1989Ka24de]

So I have a 1989 240sx with a 1991 KA24DE in it, my problem is that randomly while driving it just shuts off, radio stays on dash lights come on and turns over but won’t start back until it’s ready to, it died one day in the middle of an intersection and I pushed it off to the side fired up and drove a mile or two and died again wouldn’t start back for about an hour or more😥 I have since then replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button, none of which has fixed my problem I’m wondering if it’s the dizzy or ignition switch, any help would help me greatly right now as I miss driving my 240, it just dies randomly no signs no spitting or sputtering it acts like it stops firing as if the key was turned off mid drive PLEASE HELP!!!

[Ilya]

Originally Posted by 1989Ka24de

So I have a 1989 240sx with a 1991 KA24DE in it, my problem is that randomly while driving it just shuts off, radio stays on dash lights come on and turns over but won’t start back until it’s ready to, it died one day in the middle of an intersection and I pushed it off to the side fired up and drove a mile or two and died again wouldn’t start back for about an hour or more😥 I have since then replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button, none of which has fixed my problem I’m wondering if it’s the dizzy or ignition switch, any help would help me greatly right now as I miss driving my 240, it just dies randomly no signs no spitting or sputtering it acts like it stops firing as if the key was turned off mid drive PLEASE HELP!!!

Ignition Switch, coolant temp sensor

[Gremo]

Originally Posted by 1989Ka24de

So I have a 1989 240sx with a 1991 KA24DE in it, my problem is that randomly while driving it just shuts off, radio stays on dash lights come on and turns over but won’t start back until it’s ready to, it died one day in the middle of an intersection and I pushed it off to the side fired up and drove a mile or two and died again wouldn’t start back for about an hour or more[emoji26] I have since then replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button, none of which has fixed my problem I’m wondering if it’s the dizzy or ignition switch, any help would help me greatly right now as I miss driving my 240, it just dies randomly no signs no spitting or sputtering it acts like it stops firing as if the key was turned off mid drive PLEASE HELP!!!

Check all your grounds as well

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[1989Ka24de]

Originally Posted by Gremo

Check all your grounds as well

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Do you happen to know which main grounds I should be checking? And would it sound like a ignition switch more than a dizzy? I’m thinking it COULD be the ignition switch but I’m uncertain as to where to go from here I WILL check grounds ASAP! Being about 2 days will be the soonest that I’m able to get under the hood

[1989Ka24de]

Originally Posted by Ilya

Ignition Switch, coolant temp sensor

Thank you very much I’m thinking ignition switch because of the instant dying and no sputtering and starting when it wants too, idk ANYTHING about the coolant temp sensor but I’m going to check the grounds I have already priced a ignition switch so I’m prepared to buy/replace the ignition switch but nothing about the coolant temperature sensor btw, I GREATLY GREATLY APPRECIATE ALL YOUR GUYS HELP!!!