2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by Chaput21

is everyone running factory fuel lines? or have people run new an lines for fuel? Will be running precision 6766 turbo on e85 and hoping for around 600whp. S13

I ran new lines down my driver side, but I ran aluminum hard lines, -6an size, worked absolutely awesome.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by Chaput21

is everyone running factory fuel lines? or have people run new an lines for fuel? Will be running precision 6766 turbo on e85 and hoping for around 600whp. S13

I ran new 3/8" hardlines down driver side as well. I'm 450whp on a HE351CW

[Drink&Drift]

nevermind.

[killer240]

is anyone running the BMW 5 or 6spd getrag?

[Gar9854]

I hate to ask what would seem like a trivial question, but I've searched for days and days between here, toymod, clublexus, myis etc etc

It seems that vvti 2jz has a different exhaust cam gear and I'm absolutely mind blown on timing my vvti 1j.

With the crank shaft lined with the notch on the oil pump, exhaust cam lined with the mark etc, but the vvti gear is confusing me. Does it line with the "dot" or the "line"

Pics to further explain. Any and all help would be appreciated

[MR.P]

Delete, thanks

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by Gar9854

I hate to ask what would seem like a trivial question, but I've searched for days and days between here, toymod, clublexus, myis etc etc



It seems that vvti 2jz has a different exhaust cam gear and I'm absolutely mind blown on timing my vvti 1j.



With the crank shaft lined with the notch on the oil pump, exhaust cam lined with the mark etc, but the vvti gear is confusing me. Does it line with the "dot" or the "line"



Pics to further explain. Any and all help would be appreciated

It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, dots line up with the dot on the crank. Lines line up with 0* timing mark when you install the crank pulley. Hope this helps

[jzammy]

Hello all new here, over the last 3 months I've been performing a jzs161 swap onto my s13 coupe I kept the a340e for the swap. I just put my drive shaft in but thing is when i try to shift the tranny it doesn't engage. Am I missing something here maybe wiring? if someone with knowledge on the subject could help me out it would be awesome trying to have it ready for 2k thanks in advance!

[Freddy]

For the anyone that cut/machine their throttle body to remove TRAC

For the back of the throttle body, I assume for the water line in the back you just cut it and weld it shut

Picture for clarity

[Freddy]

Double post

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by jzammy

Hello all new here, over the last 3 months I've been performing a jzs161 swap onto my s13 coupe I kept the a340e for the swap. I just put my drive shaft in but thing is when i try to shift the tranny it doesn't engage. Am I missing something here maybe wiring? if someone with knowledge on the subject could help me out it would be awesome trying to have it ready for 2k thanks in advance!

Have you checked your transmission fluid level? If you don't have enough fluid in the a340e it won't go anywhere

[jzammy]

Originally Posted by Sky80

Have you checked your transmission fluid level? If you don't have enough fluid in the a340e it won't go anywhere

Yes I just checked the levels on it and its full ,maybe a little over filled to be percise. Any other ideas?

[Sky80]

Who did your wiring?

[jzammy]

Originally Posted by Sky80

Who did your wiring?

I did all the wiring myself.

[sleepyrps13]

Hi guys, first time posting but I've been following for a while now. I recently finished a 1JZ swap into my S14 and currently working out the little kinks (mainly cooling problems). I'm running a single knockoff GT30, FMIC, Mishimoto aluminum radiator meant for a KA, 2 12" SPAL e-fans, and a fan controller that kicks on at about 190 degrees Fahrenheit. The total distance between the radiator and the pulleys is roughly a little over 2.5".

At first, I was running hot due lack of ventilation of hot air from the engine bay (19X-215 degrees driving around town (one time, it went past 220 on a warm day), 220 degrees and climbing past 230 when driving on the freeway without even getting into boost). After making sure that there was no air in the system, that the radiator wasn't clogged, thermostat opening at 180 degrees, and that the fans were working properly, I raised the back of the hood about 1/2" with washers in an attempt to vent out the trapped hot air. Lifting the hood made a big difference, water temps stay between 190-200 degrees constantly when driving around town without the need to drive like a grandma everywhere. Driving on the freeway improved also. Water temps ranged between 210 degrees and rising past 220, but at least I don't have to chug along in the far right lane staying at 40mph the entire time anymore. The thing to led me to lifting the hood was because of the time it went past 220 driving around town. I popped the hood and temps dropped 10 degrees Fahrenheit within 1 minute.

So, I was wondering if everyone is in agreement that running a radiator for an SR where the inlet and outlet are on opposite ends is the way to go for maximum cooling efficiency? The reason is because my friend has an aluminum Koyo that I could buy if it really does make that big of a difference between the 2.

I know the topic of running a colder thermostat can be sensitive, but I'm living in Hawaii where our temperatures usually range from 70-8X degrees Fahrenheit and there isn't a lot of long distance driving. I know that it will take the engine longer to get up to operating temps along with all the good stuff about engine wear and tear, but will something like a mishimoto thermostat prove to be of any help? I was planning to install a new OEM thermostat, but figured id ask this before ordering anything.

Any other suggestions? BTW, I am planning on installing AC also, so getting rid of the condenser is out of the question. Our JZ support down here isn't that great, especially s-chassis swapped ones. Thanks.

[bova17]

Originally Posted by sleepyrps13

Hi guys, first time posting but I've been following for a while now. I recently finished a 1JZ swap into my S14 and currently working out the little kinks (mainly cooling problems). I'm running a single knockoff GT30, FMIC, Mishimoto aluminum radiator meant for a KA, 2 12" SPAL e-fans, and a fan controller that kicks on at about 190 degrees Fahrenheit. The total distance between the radiator and the pulleys is roughly a little over 2.5".

At first, I was running hot due lack of ventilation of hot air from the engine bay (19X-215 degrees driving around town, 220 degrees and climbing past 230 when driving on the freeway without even getting into boost). After making sure that there was no air in the system, that the radiator wasn't clogged, thermostat opening at 180 degrees, and that the fans were working properly, I raised the back of the hood about 1/2" with washers in an attempt to vent out the trapped hot air. Lifting the hood made a big difference, water temps stay between 190-200 degrees constantly when driving around town without the need to drive like a grandma everywhere. Driving on the freeway improved also. Water temps ranged between 210 degrees and rising past 220, but at least I don't have to chug along in the far right lane staying at 40mph the entire time anymore.

So, I was wondering if everyone is in agreement that running a radiator for an SR where the inlet and outlet are on opposite ends is the way to go for maximum cooling efficiency? The reason is because my friend has an aluminum Koyo that I could buy if it really does make that big of a difference between the 2.

I know the topic of running a colder thermostat can be sensitive, but I'm living in Hawaii where our temperatures usually range from 70-8X degrees Fahrenheit and there isn't a lot of long distance driving. I know that it will take the engine longer to get up to operating temps along with all the good stuff about engine wear and tear, but will something like a mishimoto thermostat prove to be of any help? I was planning to install a new OEM thermostat, but figured id ask this before ordering anything.

Any other suggestions? BTW, I am planning on installing AC also, so getting rid of the condenser is out of the question. Our JZ support down here isn't that great, especially s-chassis swapped ones. Thanks.

I'd say to get a Mishimoto Thermostat that opens at a lower temp, and make sure the jingle pin is up... I forgot and had to reinstall... but if that doesn't help you can always get a good radiator and/or powerful fans.

[HypnoFish]

I run a Koyo N-Flo rad and two Derale e-fans. Havent had a single problem with heat after I got the system bled properly.

[sleepyrps13]

HypnoFish, I take it you're running an SR radiator? Being that it's and N Flo?

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by sleepyrps13

HypnoFish, I take it you're running an SR radiator? Being that it's and N Flo?

Cooling has been covered so many times in this thread.

You need: N flow radiator, upper and lower ducting, Altima fans or equivalent e fans (OEM mechanical fans works better than any e fan) and OEM thermostat.

Oh and lower your hood

[sleepyrps13]

sky80, thanks for the reply. Very greatful that you've provided so much info and help to everyone (especially the AC stuff). Trust me, I've combed this thread back and forth countless times from beginning to end and found everyone doing it differently, from going all out by cutting up the radiator support and moving everything forward to people leaving it untouched while running an aluminum KA radiator and still get everything to work. My understanding is running a mechanical/powerful e-fans, SR radiator, but seeing all these other so called working setups messes with my mind a little. I asked in desperation and questioning if I'm missing something here. ATM, there is only 2.5" between my radiator and my pulleys, leaving me a little helpless in finding high powered fans over my current SPALs that are 909 CFM that will fit in that tight gap. I haven't found any fans that will give me 2200CFM and up (2x12" fans) and also fit in that tight space. I've been looking into the mechanical fans, but very reluctant to start chopping up the radiator support unless absolutely necessary. I already have an Koyo SR radiator ready to swap in along with a new OEM thermostat. Hopefully the pieces will all fall into place soon. It's a little frustrating when I can push my Honda odyssey van harder than my 1jz swapped S14

[HypnoFish]

Originally Posted by sleepyrps13

sky80, thanks for the reply. Very greatful that you've provided so much info and help to everyone (especially the AC stuff). Trust me, I've combed this thread back and forth countless times from beginning to end and found everyone doing it differently, from going all out by cutting up the radiator support and moving everything forward to people leaving it untouched while running an aluminum KA radiator and still get everything to work. My understanding is running a mechanical/powerful e-fans, SR radiator, but seeing all these other so called working setups messes with my mind a little. I asked in desperation and questioning if I'm missing something here. ATM, there is only 2.5" between my radiator and my pulleys, leaving me a little helpless in finding high powered fans over my current SPALs that are 909 CFM that will fit in that tight gap. I haven't found any fans that will give me 2200CFM and up (2x12" fans) and also fit in that tight space. I've been looking into the mechanical fans, but very reluctant to start chopping up the radiator support unless absolutely necessary. I already have an Koyo SR radiator ready to swap in along with a new OEM thermostat. Hopefully the pieces will all fall into place soon. It's a little frustrating when I can push my Honda odyssey van harder than my 1jz swapped S14

I run my fans as pushers as I had the same problem with fitment and didnt want to chop my core support. And yeah its an SR rad.

Put two of these as pushers and you shouldn't have any issues.
https://derale.com/products/electric...4-08-14-detail

[Sky80]

Sleepy- I am not asking you to cut your core support. I simply gave you what you needed to get this done. Do you have ducting upper and lower? If your going to stick with pushers and AC you will need to get creative. I would suggest from the front of your car it would go like this: intercooler, AC condenser, pusher fans, radiator.

Get your N flow in, post some pics how you did it, and how well it's working.

[sleepyrps13]

Originally Posted by Sky80

Sleepy- I am not asking you to cut your core support. I simply gave you what you needed to get this done. Do you have ducting upper and lower? If your going to stick with pushers and AC you will need to get creative. I would suggest from the front of your car it would go like this: intercooler, AC condenser, pusher fans, radiator.

Get your N flow in, post some pics how you did it, and how well it's working.

Sky80, my current setup is FMIC>condenser>Radiator>Spal puller fans.

I am in the process of closing the gaps on both sides of the condenser. there's a 1/4" to 1/2" gap on both sides that are probably air slip by. I am also looking into ducting around that center section to direct air towards the condenser/radiator.

[HypnoFish]

I wasnt aware you were running AC. Could make things a bit tricky. how much room do you have between the condenser and the rad?

[boatwright_doug]

For the fellas running the z32 Collins performace adapter in their 2jzgte s13. How's the shifter location? Trying to figure out if I need to buy a relocation kit
Thanks in advance

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[cbfperform]

Originally Posted by boatwright_doug

For the fellas running the z32 Collins performace adapter in their 2jzgte s13. How's the shifter location? Trying to figure out if I need to buy a relocation kit
Thanks in advance

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Yes you will still need a relocation shifter for that setup.


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[boatwright_doug]

Assuming the enjuku ka/z32 relocation kit will work just fine?

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[cbfperform]

Originally Posted by boatwright_doug

Assuming the enjuku ka/z32 relocation kit will work just fine?

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Nevermind I misread that the first time thought it said z33 I am not sure about the z32 trans sorry.

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[boatwright_doug]

Originally Posted by cbfperform

Nevermind I misread that the first time thought it said z33 I am not sure about the z32 trans sorry.

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Appreciate the thought

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[sleepyrps13]

Update to my situation. I stalled the SR Koyo radiator along with a new OEM thermostat. Temps have have between 200* and 206* in all situations. When it does get up to 206*, it will be able to drop back down to 204* pretty quickly. Next thing on my list to mess around with some ducting. I know im definitely losing a lot of airflow towards the radiator since I don't have any of the stock undertray or fender liners.

I'm also tossing around the idea of bypassing the stock oil cooler that routes the coolant through the oil filter housing in further attempt to aid in keeping the water temps down. I know it will be beneficial to run an external oil cooler after doing that, but how necessary would it be to run one or would I be fine without one? I mainly daily this thing and don't really get on it a lot.