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Old 03-31-2015, 01:27 PM   #5101
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2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrustS13 View Post
Can anyone offer any advice on how to set the TPS on the 2JZ-GTE VVTi motors?

Should be pretty simple- there are three wires on the sensor... One has 5 volts constant the other is ground after you find those two you will be left with the signal wire.

Edit: Engine cold between .60-.70 volts DC
Engine warm between .65- .75
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Old 03-31-2015, 09:29 PM   #5102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrustS13 View Post
AS240 and JohanM.. are you guys both running standalones?
Got my car running the other day. Stock ECU and fuel (for now - upgrades to both coming soon. Leaning towards either AEM V2 or ECUMasters EMU).
I'm on a AEM v2 right now running ID1000s. I'll be wiring in a flex fuel sensor and getting retuned for flex fuel sometime this summer. Mainly just for the added reliability of e85. Right now I'm making 430hp/410tq @ 14psi on a suuuuper conservative tune.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:01 PM   #5103
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Originally Posted by Dook-E View Post
Just got this in from Driftmotion...so sick!


Link to this? Is this a PS Reservoir?
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:49 PM   #5104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86 View Post
Link to this? Is this a PS Reservoir?
It is a PS reservoir. I don't believe they are actually selling them yet. I got a hookup due to some issues i had with an order that was previously placed. When i spoke to Aaron, though, it didnt seem like they were too far away from selling them to the masses.
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:19 PM   #5105
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Drove the car today and stepped on it a bit, making sure all parts are working as intended but, Holy crap!! this car is scary. Boost comes on like a punch to the face
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:47 PM   #5106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalel540 View Post
Drove the car today and stepped on it a bit, making sure all parts are working as intended but, Holy crap!! this car is scary. Boost comes on like a punch to the face

Holy crap! Nice curve. What's your setup?
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:58 PM   #5107
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also curious as to the setup and what gear was that?
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:45 AM   #5108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86 View Post
Holy crap! Nice curve. What's your setup?
yes it is [emoji1] the tuner at motiva motorssports worked really hard at it. Great people.
Bw S360, BC 264 cams, 740cc inj. 3rd gear pull.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:09 AM   #5109
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Originally Posted by TrustS13 View Post
Awesome.. stock MAF still? I tried to hook mine up with a 4" intake pipe and the car won't stay running -_-
yeah stock maf still, if you go with a bigger pipe you will need to get a tune.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:12 PM   #5110
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428120243.949778.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1428120261.406199.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1428120272.445432.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1428120282.550029.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1428120304.876976.jpg

selling my used single plate 2jz to 350z trans clutch setup.
Included will be
-flywheel
-pilot bearing adapter with bushing
-clutch release adapter with bearing
-pressure plate
-disc
-pressure plate bolts

price is 450 + shipping

reason for selling, I'm switching to a twin plate setup to handle the power that will be added. this clutch setup was working flawlessly before being pulled out it put out 510whp and 462 ft.lbs.
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:40 PM   #5111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbjslambert View Post
been having a problem with my 2j vvti. it wont rev past 4000 rpm. its like it hits a wall. i have not put a new timing belt on it yet so i decided to check the belt timing marks when i found that it appears that some Japanese tech installed it 3 teeth off on the cams. (maybe too much Sake that day, idk.)

I put pink paint marker(only color i had) on the TDC marks on the cam. The white one is the 60degree BTDC mark. I tried rotating the engine many times and every 720 degress it never changes, its always 3 teeth advanced.

as you an see the crank is TDC


then cams while crank is at TDC
sorry guys, been busy. but the 2JZGTE VVTI timing marks line up every 720 degrees rotation of the crank. So both cams was off 3 teeth. I replaced the belt and installed it by the manual and the problem is gone. basically the exhaust and intake was advance about 30 degrees and then when you add another 30 degrees advance with the vvti...too much overlap

it was a wonder why the valves never hit. but it runs good now, made some pulls on the dyno to dial in boost control. currently still have it strapped to the dyno ready to dial in VVT and power runs with Megasquirt MS3X in the next few days
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:50 PM   #5112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalel540 View Post
yes it is [emoji1] the tuner at motiva motorssports worked really hard at it. Great people.
Bw S360, BC 264 cams, 740cc inj. 3rd gear pull.
damn, what diff gear ratio and tire size are you using? third gear and 127 mph?

ill be lucky to hit that speed in 4th gear with my cd009 and 4.09 rear with 45 series tires on. on the Mustang dyno I am in 4th gear and 3000 rpms = 42 mph roller speed. lol
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:19 PM   #5113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbjslambert View Post
damn, what diff gear ratio and tire size are you using? third gear and 127 mph?

ill be lucky to hit that speed in 4th gear with my cd009 and 4.09 rear with 45 series tires on. on the Mustang dyno I am in 4th gear and 3000 rpms = 42 mph roller speed. lol
Maybe it was 4th gear, I could have been too exited to tell at the moment.[emoji1]
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:23 PM   #5114
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s13 2jz: https://youtu.be/46p1X6kV4ms

Passenger could not handle. Haha
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:40 AM   #5115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbjslambert View Post
sorry guys, been busy. but the 2JZGTE VVTI timing marks line up every 720 degrees rotation of the crank. So both cams was off 3 teeth. I replaced the belt and installed it by the manual and the problem is gone. basically the exhaust and intake was advance about 30 degrees and then when you add another 30 degrees advance with the vvti...too much overlap

it was a wonder why the valves never hit. but it runs good now, made some pulls on the dyno to dial in boost control. currently still have it strapped to the dyno ready to dial in VVT and power runs with Megasquirt MS3X in the next few days
thats good man, vvt gte's are non interferance engines.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:12 PM   #5116
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Hey just wanted to update .I had crazy issues with zerolift bracket kit as far as fitment engine shouldn't be forced to fit correctly.they sucked same as the customer service.had a good conversation with rich at xcessive.brackets came in next day and in ten minutes and the help of my girlfriend engine fit perfect..stay away from zerolift as far as s14 2j bracket kit goes Im sayn this cause of my personal experience.I don't know what anyone else has to say about their experience but for me shitty.thanks zerolift for the waste of time and money.
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:32 AM   #5117
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I'm still having issues with getting mine to run properly. With the MAF unplugged, it runs at a 14.7 idle and sounds very good, except for the 3k rev limit. Plug in the MAF, and it wants to run insanely lean and cut off. Any thoughts? Bad MAF I assume?

- I have a stock auto ecu, but the car is a R154 car
- The harness is a Tweak'd PnP harness
- TPS resistance is fine, set idle to .65v and it hits 3.90v at WOT
- Car is converted to single turbo
- I just got a proper 3" intake pipe for the MAF. Now the MAF is plugged in and the car will run, but it runs super lean (AF gauge goes off the gauge lean).
- The motor doesn't want to rev above 2k or 3k. Seems to be in limp mode.
- The JDM VVTi motor only has 1 TPS, just a FYI
- No code when it does run with the MAF plugged in.. but runs like shit. Any way to check the MAF?

Only thing I can think of is either

a) the MAF is bad (trying to look up how to properly check this
b) the Throttle Control Motor is bad

Regardless, I've bought a new upper intake plenum and throttle body from a normal GTE motor. I'm pretty sure most guys are just doing this + standalone. Hopefully this will remedy my issues.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmIeaIAFiOM
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Old 04-06-2015, 03:17 PM   #5118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickS14 View Post
Hey just wanted to update .I had crazy issues with zerolift bracket kit as far as fitment engine shouldn't be forced to fit correctly.they sucked same as the customer service.had a good conversation with rich at xcessive.brackets came in next day and in ten minutes and the help of my girlfriend engine fit perfect..stay away from zerolift as far as s14 2j bracket kit goes Im sayn this cause of my personal experience.I don't know what anyone else has to say about their experience but for me shitty.thanks zerolift for the waste of time and money.
I will say this, with the xcessive engine mount brackets you will have to mod your wastegate runner if using an ebay manifold. My wastegate hits the motor mount bracket.

**Zerolift swap mounts are just ebay mounts...just a different..color.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:05 PM   #5119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrustS13
doing this + standalone. Hopefully this will remedy my issue

Well if you go standalone you will for sure be good to go right?

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? What about checking the resistance of the MAF?
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:22 AM   #5120
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Hey everyone,

I've been having the worst time trying to get my Dakota Digital to work. I've followed every guide I could find on Zilvia, LS1Tech and a few other places. When moving, the Dakota's light is blinking, but there isn't any movement from the speedometer. I've checked the connection from the Dakota to the speedo and it's fine. I'm using a Marlin Crawler VSS right now for the signal. Any help would really be appreciated.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:41 AM   #5121
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I've been having the worst time trying to get my Dakota Digital to work.

Have you contacted Dakota Digital to see if there is a way to test the unit? Make sure you didn't get a defective unit
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:59 AM   #5122
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Quote:
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Hey everyone,

I've been having the worst time trying to get my Dakota Digital to work. I've followed every guide I could find on Zilvia, LS1Tech and a few other places. When moving, the Dakota's light is blinking, but there isn't any movement from the speedometer. I've checked the connection from the Dakota to the speedo and it's fine. I'm using a Marlin Crawler VSS right now for the signal. Any help would really be appreciated.

What harness are you using? Is it only the speedo you're having issues with?
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:39 AM   #5123
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hey want to ask you guys about the dp when going single did you guys custom it or buy it
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:17 AM   #5124
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hey want to ask you guys about the dp when going single did you guys custom it or buy it
Haven't done a single setup on mine but when I went top mount on my KA-T I just bought one and fitment was real shoddy. Don't waste your time trying to buy a pre-made one imo, just go get one built for you at a local speedshop.
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:34 AM   #5125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrustS13 View Post
I'm still having issues with getting mine to run properly. With the MAF unplugged, it runs at a 14.7 idle and sounds very good, except for the 3k rev limit. Plug in the MAF, and it wants to run insanely lean and cut off. Any thoughts? Bad MAF I assume?

- I have a stock auto ecu, but the car is a R154 car
- The harness is a Tweak'd PnP harness
- TPS resistance is fine, set idle to .65v and it hits 3.90v at WOT
- Car is converted to single turbo
- I just got a proper 3" intake pipe for the MAF. Now the MAF is plugged in and the car will run, but it runs super lean (AF gauge goes off the gauge lean).
- The motor doesn't want to rev above 2k or 3k. Seems to be in limp mode.
- The JDM VVTi motor only has 1 TPS, just a FYI
- No code when it does run with the MAF plugged in.. but runs like shit. Any way to check the MAF?

Only thing I can think of is either

a) the MAF is bad (trying to look up how to properly check this
b) the Throttle Control Motor is bad

Regardless, I've bought a new upper intake plenum and throttle body from a normal GTE motor. I'm pretty sure most guys are just doing this + standalone. Hopefully this will remedy my issues.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmIeaIAFiOM
Keep the maf plugged in and start it up. probe input voltage +B(12 volts) then probe the return back to the ecu(this voltage should change as more air comes in but im not sure of the voltage range). Also check to make sure its NOT grounded to chassis ground, it grounds back to the ecu. Your IAT sensor is built into it as well, ohm out between THA and E2 to make sure thats in range.

temp range for the IAT

-20 °C – Resistance Range 10-20 k
0 °C – Resistance Range 4-7 kΩ
20 °C – Resistance Range 2-3 kΩ
40 °C – Resistance Range 0.9-1.3 kΩ
60 °C – Resistance Range 0.4-0.7 kΩ

Its also possible that you may need to wire in a resistor on the return path to the ecu with that single turbo setup or an AFC for now until you can get a standalone in there and throw that MAF as far as you can. Megasquirt is a very affordable solution as far as standalones go. I would also sell off that harness when you do.

As far as the 3k limit, sounds like the trans wires are not jumpered correctly. That's why I do all my own wiring

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Old 04-08-2015, 08:38 AM   #5126
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Quote:
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Regardless, I've bought a new upper intake plenum and throttle body from a normal GTE motor. I'm pretty sure most guys are just doing this + standalone. Hopefully this will remedy my issues.

I modified my stock DBW throttle body and using it with my Megasquirt setup. works right off the throttle cable. i gutted the gears and motor out of it, lol, no need for it now
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Old 04-09-2015, 03:56 PM   #5127
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What does everyone think about going single turbo and keeping the OEM wiring harness? im assuming there's just alot of extra clips from that rocket science sequential system?
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Old 04-09-2015, 05:06 PM   #5128
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What does everyone think about going single turbo and keeping the OEM wiring harness? im assuming there's just alot of extra clips from that rocket science sequential system?
It's very easy. Remove them all the way back to the ecu. Use something to control boost and an afc

Rocket science is controlling the twins with a standalone. In which I just did. Can't wait to go single but 10+lbs of boost at 1800 rpm is nice
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Old 04-09-2015, 05:50 PM   #5129
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Here's my aristo alternator (top) vs 2007 tundra alternator (bottom):



Is the only mod to cut off that middle ear on the tundra alternator?



Of course I'll need to use a tundra alternator pigtail to have the 4-pin square plug:


(Aristo alt on left and tundra alt on right.)


Here's a close-up of the tundra alt plug:

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Old 04-09-2015, 08:13 PM   #5130
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Beefing up my cooling a bit. One of those cheapo Isis fans I flipped to run as a pusher finally died so I'm swapping it out with this 2210 CFM beast until the other fan dies then I'll add another.
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