GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[sr20det_510]

Ok thanks guys

[sr20det_510]

Lol head gasket!!! Ok stay oem but do atleast run arp head studs ?atleast

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by sr20det_510

Lol head gasket!!! Ok stay oem but do atleast run arp head studs ?atleast

No! Don't take the damn thing apart. It's fine the way it is!

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

No! Don't take the damn thing apart. It's fine the way it is!

Originally Posted by Tom N

Detonation will pop a head gasket long before hp will. I dont know why anyone would crack open a factory engine to replace a head gasket that isnt blown.

Originally Posted by Tom N

Why? Is there something wrong with it? Your motor do what you want but I would never crack open a factory sealed motor unless I had to.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

These aren't 302's lol

Once you take the head off, and let the JDM fairy dust out, it'll never run good again. Fact of life.

Seriously, don't replace a head gasket until its broke.

And just so you know, if you do your wiring, fuel lines, vac lines, and install clean enough, it should only take 30-45 mintues to pull the engine and trans out...

I'm happy too see post's like these, as they are the rules I build by.
Also we could use a head gasket database, with images to compare old, failed or just used head gaskets. MHO

[sr20det_510]

ok.......ok ........ i feel like i just got yelled by my dad lol, but really thanks for the 411 guys really helpful

[derass]

I've been searching this thread without much luck as too how far can i push the motor on a stock head gasket.

Car made 320whp at 15psi, but would like to go for 16-18psi. Using 555cc injectors, havent logged the DC's but probably getting up there.

Next stage of upgrades will be: Metal HG, Studs, Inatake Manifold, Cams and 740cc injectors. Hopefully, it will make close to 400whp at 20+ psi

[Tom N]

Detonation will pop a head gasket long before hp will. I dont know why anyone would crack open a factory engine to replace a head gasket that isnt blown.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by Tom N

Detonation will pop a head gasket long before hp will. I dont know why anyone would crack open a factory engine to replace a head gasket that isnt blown.

Bingo.

Msg length

[sr20det_510]

well just thought replace it will i had the engine out

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by sr20det_510

well just thought replace it will i had the engine out

Why? Is there something wrong with it? Your motor do what you want but I would never crack open a factory sealed motor unless I had to.

[BlackZenkiS14]

These aren't 302's lol

Once you take the head off, and let the JDM fairy dust out, it'll never run good again. Fact of life.

Seriously, don't replace a head gasket until its broke.

And just so you know, if you do your wiring, fuel lines, vac lines, and install clean enough, it should only take 30-45 mintues to pull the engine and trans out...

[sr20det_510]

This is what exactly I wanted to read thanks brother zilvians

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Originally Posted by derass

I've been searching this thread without much luck as too how far can i push the motor on a stock head gasket.

Car made 320whp at 15psi, but would like to go for 16-18psi. Using 555cc injectors, havent logged the DC's but probably getting up there.

Next stage of upgrades will be: Metal HG, Studs, Inatake Manifold, Cams and 740cc injectors. Hopefully, it will make close to 400whp at 20+ psi

You can make 400whp on the stock head gasket just fine. Been done plenty of times. Just make sure you have a good tuner. There's really no need to change your headgasket/studs until you pop the stock HG, it would kinda be a waste of money to do before hand IMO. If you have the funds for it already I would order it ahead of time that way if/when the stock HG goes. You already have ARP's and a metal HG ready to go on.

Also a intake manifold is pointless if your not making 400+. You gain top end power and lose your low end tq. (It does make your engine bay cleaner and cleans up the VAC/Fuel lines tho)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[jamg]

are you guys running adjustable FPR's? what is your setting at?

just picked up a nismo.

I have a walbro 255, and it's currently at stock setting. i can't check, but i have another FPR with a gauge on it. i might just hook it all up, though it's unnecessary lol.

it is one of those ebay type's, it's from DNA motoring. has a gauge so i'll at least know what PSI i'm at.

[NickIsAZero]

These guys are correct about the OEM head gasket, that thing will hold a hell of alot. I've been running the same SR engine for about 3yrs now with multiple different turbo setups & alot of abuse and it still keeps taking it. Have ran the T25/T28, 30R and am now currently running a 2871R. Have had issues in the past with wastegate and ran infinite boost a few pulls, some overheating issues and still this engine keeps taking it!

I know an aftermarket head gasket/studs is a great upgrade, but atleast wait till you blow yours. DON'T FIX IT IF IT AIN'T BROKE!
I'm just waiting for mine since I already have those parts on standby lol.

[sr20det_510]

Yah bro I agree now I see the light... I'll just save all the goodies I for when shit hits the fan

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by sr20det_510

Yah bro I agree now I see the light... I'll just save all the goodies I for when shit hits the fan

Or sell it all and pay for your turbo

[sr20det_510]

There's another idea

[jamg]

or are you guys running a stock FPR?

EDIT: since my post got lost last page--------

are you guys running adjustable FPR's? what is your setting at?

just picked up a nismo.

I have a walbro 255, and it's currently at stock setting. i can't check, but i have another FPR with a gauge on it. i might just hook it all up, though it's unnecessary lol.

it is one of those ebay type's, it's from DNA motoring. has a gauge so i'll at least know what PSI i'm at.

[NickIsAZero]

My fuel setup is pretty basic... Just a Walbro 255 and 550's with the stock FPR. Could it be better? Yea, is it reliable? I'd say so.

[jamg]

that's what i currently have.

what are your A/F ratios? at idle and wide open throttle? What tune are you on?

[NickIsAZero]

Originally Posted by jamg

that's what i currently have.

what are your A/F ratios? at idle and wide open throttle? What tune are you on?

I don't remember, it was tuned a while back. I'm still running on Emanage

[BlackZenkiS14]

I'm running an Aeromotive AFPR with -6AN lines throughout. I think it's set at roughly 45 psi base pressure. I make minimal adjustments to it to adjust my tune accordingly. I have a wideband, so I just pay attention to that and try to keep the WOT AFR between 11.5 and 12.0.

[cotbu]

I run an aeromotive fpr, with -6an lines as well, but with simple push lock fittings. The fuel pressure should always be 3bar 43.5psi unless your tuner or injector manufacturer specifies different. And if you are tuned, and you need to adjust fuel pressure, get re tuned. Now cams tend to lower vacuum that's when you may need an adjustable fpr. To help you maintain that base fuel pressure of about 43.5psi. There are other reasons fuel pressure maybe to high or low, just to name a few: vacuum leaks, weak or tired engine, clogged fuel filter and or lines.

woooooooooooosh! <----that's me flying off in my super tech-man outfit!!!

[jamg]

So a stock FPR, that connects to the rail?

[cotbu]

You mean me? If so yeah from a ka. It's been drilled out, so fuel flows straight through to the aeromotive unit. I should buy a fitting for the rail, but this works fine, so I haven't touched it in 6years

[jamg]

got it.

since i have a nismo, and no fuel pressure gauge to see the flow, i might just run the nismo, have it on full open, and run the other FPR i have, with the pressure gauge on the side.

[tabasco122]

You need a gauge with an adjustable, you can get one with fittings for less than $20 from jegs or summit. That goes inline with the feed.

[SR20HAYES]

I started installing my gt2871r. However I ran into a problem when clocking the turbo. The actuator bracket needed to be flipped, but doing so causes the rod to not reach to the flapper. I did research and found that some people were having to make their own actuator bracket. None of the pictures from these older threads were working though. I was hoping someone could post a picture of the bracket they made so I can maybe get an idea of how to make my own.

I came across this bracket on ebay. Garrett Adjustable Wastegate Bracket GT25R GT28R GT30R | eBay It looks like it might work due to the bend being opposite of the stock bracket. So instead of being further from the flapper it would be closer. What do you guys think?

I also was looking into a way to extend the rod and came across this. http://www.himni-racing.com/index.ph...2srt49mbeg6923 Has anyone used this type of extension before? It does not say the tread pitch so I was a little unsure if it would even fit.

Anyways If you guys could help me figure a way to get this actuator to work on my turbo it would be greatly appreciated.

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by jamg

got it.

since i have a nismo, and no fuel pressure gauge to see the flow, i might just run the nismo, have it on full open, and run the other FPR i have, with the pressure gauge on the side.

Stock and nismo units don't work like that, with no vacuum they are closed. So to allow fuel to flow through it, it had to be drilled out or drilled through the piston.
What you can do is pull apart the internals of the fpr with the gauge install it after the filter and adjust the nismo unit. I don't know what type of fpr it is but the ones like isis, can be stripped apart and used as a fpr gauge adapter. that's probably not feasible when you can by a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and hose adapter so cheap.



You can rotate the rod, grab it and twist it clockwise, see if you have enough room to attach it. There are many ways too fix your issue, and I shouldn't take that away from you.