New flca to hit the market soon

[Bink Industries]

so im finally willing to leak these photos of a product i have been doin R&D on for many months.

i will be testing these at the track this weekend (with a swaybar that will clear MAJOR angle and bolt up in the stock location......soon to come with pics on that)

just want some feed back on what you guys think

not going to give away to many details but I will say this.....

This is the most advanced FLCA to hit the market for 240sx

It will clear more angle than ANY of the competition currently on the market

MUCH stronger than stock

Lighter than stock

MADE IN THE USA- AND USING ALL USA MADE ROD ENDS
(unlike most of the popular brands that are going to china)

price will be around $900
.................................................. .................................................. .........

please let me know what you guys think and feel free to ask me any questions about this item.

[KiLLeR2001]

brb copying design and sending to China now...

[slydin240sx]

Looks great, but $900? Um fuck.

[Chris28]

So I guess all caster adjustment will be done through aftermarket top hats?

[FaLKoN240]

Looks good.

[Bink Industries]

the caster is still adjusted from the control arm.

[towlie]

Those look cool. But idk about $900 cool

[Croustibat]

This is by far NOT the most advanced FLCA on the market, and if i was willing to spend that kind of money, i would add 300$ to get a pair of adjustable knuckes from gktech /tdp, along with various other parts.

That and advertising without a trading account may get you in trouble.

edit:
this is from TDP and the full set is 1200$ if memory serves.

[lewisfk]

^^ Thanks for the heads up, never heard of this company!

[CleanAndLegit]

FYI these two cannot be used in fd

[marks14]

Why can't OP's LCAs be used in fd? The pickup points are still in the same spot.

[Chris28]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

the caster is still adjusted from the control arm.

Not with your design.



As you extend the "tension rod" heim to adjust caster, you change the distance between the subframe and tension rod bracket. Since this distance is fixed, all you're doing is putting pressure on the subrame and tension rod bracket. In my MSPaint picture, the green line is the "correct" distance between the two points. As you extend the rod end along the orange arrow, you change the physical distance between the two points. The purple line is the new distance, and when you rotate the LCA around the subframe rod end to "adjust" caster, the distance is incorrect and you're stressing the subframe and tension rod bracket.

The tension rod needs to pivot on the LCA or the angle at which it mounts to the tension rod bracket needs to be adjustable, like the TDP kit.

[Bink Industries]

note the shims on the tension rod side!

i have already bolted this to the car adjusted from stock to 15 degrees of caster.
i wouldnt build something unless i could beat out the competion.

and FYI just because the gktech /tdp stuff looks like robocop doesnt mean anything. I dont have time to explain to you guys 6 months of research and a group of some of the nations best fabricators looking into every aspect of this part.

oh and its FD compliant

[new2sr20]

300 shipped u say??

[Bink Industries]

the $900 is set as i would rather overprice then underprice this early. but it will more then likley not be even close to that much if i can get my manufaturing cost down (in the USA).

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

and FYI just because the gktech /tdp stuff looks like robocop doesnt mean anything. I dont have time to explain to you guys 6 months of research and a group of some of the nations best fabricators looking into every aspect of this part.

Yes, of course. They do, however. Your product is still way overpriced for what it is, and is still not better than the competition in any way you could explain.

And you still have not paid an advertisement membership either.

BTW i cant remember if gktech or tdp announced to be working on a FD legal kit (the whole one again, not just 900$ LCAs)

[oni jake]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

I dont have time to explain to you guys 6 months of research and a group of some of the nations best fabricators looking into every aspect of this part.

Yo man, why would I want to buy anything from you with statements like that. I'm curious to know the justification for $900, I'm sure others are as well. What makes your product superior to GKtech?

Not hating, I legitimately want to be schooled.

[new2sr20]

The justification for the cost is more then likely that the amount it costs him to have them made is high. If the cost is 300 to have them made, then hes gonna ask 900 for them to make some decent money back.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by oni jake

Yo man, why would I want to buy anything from you with statements like that. I'm curious to know the justification for $900, I'm sure others are as well. What makes your product superior to GKtech?

Not hating, I legitimately want to be schooled.

Because the best fabricators in the world (they dont have names though) spent 6 months designing them, of course

Seriously though, material price is high, and the design looks good. But the OP cant compete with tdp/gktech pricewise for that very reason.

That and they already have their products out. They also have released their testing results and are nice to the community, which means they also win on the communication domain.

I do believe the OPs LCAs would have a chance... if they did hit the market a year and a half sooner. Now, it is going to be quite tough, there already are high quality alternatives.

[kewilso3]

Where did you find a tapered shank to fit s13 and s14 taper (or custom?)? Will you offer both s13 and s14 versions? Will you offer different length shanks to adjust roll center? How much does caster change with each shim? What is the adjustment range for the length of the arm? Will you be making a swaybar to take advantage of the extra wheel clearance provided by this design? thanks.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by kewilso3

Where did you find a tapered shank to fit s13 and s14 taper (or custom?)? Will you offer both s13 and s14 versions? Will you offer different length shanks to adjust roll center? How much does caster change with each shim? What is the adjustment range for the length of the arm? Will you be making a swaybar to take advantage of the extra wheel clearance provided by this design? thanks.

as for the tapered shank i bought something close and machined it in house to fit but i have worked with a US based company that will make them for me and yes I will have s13 and s14 avalible.

the shank length that is on there is pretty long already. longer then most of the competion. so i wasnt really planing on it but my ears are always open to what you guys want to see in a product. how much roll center adjustment would you want? Keep in mind this was designed with a drop spindle knuckle in mind. i will be working on that in the next few months

you are able to rotate the rod end one half turn with out moving the shims around. turn it another half turn in the same direction and you will have to swap 1 shim over other wise it will bind. the amount of caster change one half turn on the rod end will get you depends on your ride height. rally car?....less movement VIP car? more movement per turn on the rod end.

i did not design it with a whole lot of track width change as you are messing with susension geometry angles in the strut. that being said it will go 2 1/4 wider than stock S13 overall.

As far as the sway bar, yes. i just finished testing this weekend. works great. it will clear the latest PBM angle kit at full lock with room to spare. and it has the ability to swap center swaybar rates for MUCH cheaper then buying a whole new sway bar. clears sr ka with nismo power brace. and the best part......It bolts up in the stock location soon to come one that clears LS1

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

Yes, of course. They do, however. Your product is still way overpriced for what it is, and is still not better than the competition in any way you could explain.

i would like to ask you to tell me were the TDP FLCA is superior to mine

not the whole kit

just the FLCA

[Bink Industries]

i am not trying to advertise at ALL

if you guys feel i am please remove this post. i mean no disrespect and am trying to follow the rules. not much of a forums guy

I just want to see what you guys think so i can make sure im on the right track. i will be starting on a RLCA prototype and sway bar in the next few weeks. if you guys like the design elements in this arm i would like to continue the trend on the back and trough out the other products i build.

[godrifttoday]

You should have priced them at 899 and people would have said this guy is crazy he wants 800 bucks.... It's an advertising gimmick ...

[Beejis60]

OP, how do you justify the employment of single jam nut with locking the rod end? Or is it your intention to have it wobble around with the movement of the bearing and using the misalignment shim to keep it from fully rotating?

[kewilso3]

Nice, thanks for the answers. I guess I missed the swaybar mentioned in the original post. So the shank will work like SPL's tie rod ends, using spacers above or below to adjust roll center. The only thing I would still worry about is the amount of articulation in that outer spherical, especially with an extended shank there, they bind much sooner than a ball joint. Like you said though, using a knuckle that raises roll center is the better way. I guess testing will prove one way or another on the binding, good luck, and I'm interested in the knuckles

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

OP, how do you justify the employment of single jam nut with locking the rod end? Or is it your intention to have it wobble around with the movement of the bearing and using the misalignment shim to keep it from fully rotating?

i could raise the cost of the arm $70 more and put pinch bungs in. but i thought i should keep costs down as little as possible. plus a single jam nut with a drop of red lock tight will do just fine. works for me on our class 5 car and we finished 2 place in class in the baja 1000 this past november jam nuts still tight.

will it work. yes
is it what i want. no

pinch bungs eliminate the use of jam nuts completly and are probably the most secure way of clamping down on rod ends but...... they are EXPENSIVE

oh and i refuse to go overseas for stuff because i believe in this country and the people that live in it and dont want to send any money overseas if i can help it. plus i can have much better control on my quality

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by kewilso3

The only thing I would still worry about is the amount of articulation in that outer spherical, especially with an extended shank there, they bind much sooner than a ball joint.

these are things that i have paid very close attention too that alot of the competition has failed to acount for. the outside cup angle is very important. i have angled it so that at ride height it is perfectly in the center (with proper or close to proper roll center) this allows for the same travel on bump and droop.

the factory has there ball joint angled the same way.maybe they were on to something it is tilted down to match the angle of knuckle and pointed BACKWARD slightly to acount for the caster angle.

some of the competitions FLCA are almost completly maxed out of its articulation range just sitting still and to fix the problem they offer TWO DIFFERANT CONTROL ARMS??? with differant cup angles??? I decieded to just make ONE the right way.

I tested these lower control arms at the track this weekend no binding of any kind.

[Bink Industries]

here is a top shot of the arm installed with the clearance. this is full lock (COMPLETLY STOCK KUCKLE) 225 on 18x8 30mm offset

3.75 camber and 10 degrees caster if that makes any differance to you guys.

dont mind the tube sticking out that was part of my mock up swaybar.

[kewilso3]

Yeah I know about the inward/backward tilt, just making sure you did as well . Important to get that angle right. Probably good that you didn't design in too much length adjustment for people to get into trouble with too much camber.

Any info on the drop knuckle? modding stock knuckles or starting from scratch?