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Old 02-16-2012, 11:19 AM   #1
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:20 PM   #2
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asking a stupid question and Just making absolutely sure before i order it, this is the .64 2871 where talking about rite?:
Garrett GT2871R-15 Turbocharger - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:01 PM   #3
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asking a stupid question and Just making absolutely sure before i order it, this is the .64 2871 where talking about rite?:
Garrett GT2871R-15 Turbocharger - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
Thats the bolt on style 2871R, if you want a little more power and dont mind getting a few extra couplers the 3'' style front cover one would be good as well.

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Old 02-26-2012, 06:14 PM   #4
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I need to change my order -,- fck
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:55 PM   #5
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what cam/valve spring combo is everyone using for this turbo?
i was thinking of tomei 256 poncams,bc valve springs and retainers.
can i just use the stock valves and do a 5 angle valve job. or new valves?
i'm looking for that sweet 350whp mark.
current setup
gt2871r .64 ar
z32maf
dw 810 inj.
cosworth 1.2 headgasket
hks ras
acl mains,rod bearings
arp mains and rod studs
new oem oil pump,water pump and piston rings
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sil14zenki View Post
what cam/valve spring combo is everyone using for this turbo?
i was thinking of tomei 256 poncams,bc valve springs and retainers.
can i just use the stock valves and do a 5 angle valve job. or new valves?
i'm looking for that sweet 350whp mark.
current setup
gt2871r .64 ar
z32maf
dw 810 inj.
cosworth 1.2 headgasket
hks ras
acl mains,rod bearings
arp mains and rod studs
new oem oil pump,water pump and piston rings
Hey Im pulling a set of TOMEI 256/256 cams out this weekend lmk if your interested - Going with a set of HKS 264/264's to see if I can squeeze out a few more ponies
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:30 AM   #7
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Fuck yeah, just ordered my turbo finally. Just need to find a place for some sard or pe 850cc injectors...
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:37 PM   #8
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Since it is very hard to find pictures of anyone actually doing it, below is my installation of the .73AR T25-EWG-44 exhaust housing on a GT2871R, which allows for the use of a 44mm Tial wastegate.

PICS:







Mod list:

SR20DET #62 ECU previously flashed by Enthalpy (for now; Power FC or EMS Series 2 may be coming)
Garrett GT2871R .73AR T25-EWG-44 housing
All turbo hardware is stainless studs with copper lock nuts and nord lock washers
Greddy tubular exhaust manifold, with 4 layers of ceramic coating
Tial 44mm v-band external wastegate, 1.1 Bar, with custom dump tube
Blitz i-sbc ID digital boost controller
7 layer exhaust gasket
Circuit Sports braided turbo oil & coolant lines
Splitfire coil packs
Greddy/trust turbo elbow
Greddy down pipe
Invidia 3” full exhaust with Magnaflow 3” spun metallic catalytic converter, and extra 3” Magnaflow race muffler to quiet it down
Greddy hot pipe
Greddy front mount intercooler
Greddy type RS blow off valve (Tial Q BOV already bought and to be installed next week with custom intercooler piping, HPS couplers and T-bolt clamps)
BC264 12.0mm lift cams
JWT cam gears
Greddy valve springs
Greddy/Trust rocker arm stoppers
BC titanium valve spring retainers
Wiseco 9:1 pistons, 86.5mm
Eagle rods
Wiseco pistons 9:1 compression
ARP head studs
Apexi 1.1 head gasket
ACL race bearings
New OEM timing set
New OEM oil pump
Circuit Sports oil block adapter
10AN Aeroquip oil lines to Offenhauser remote oil filter mount, Permacool 160 degree oil thermostat and CX Racing oil cooler
Greddy oil pan
Stance water pump pulley
OEM Nissan water pump
Samco silicone hoses
Stance water neck spacer
OEM Nissan thermostat
Koyo race radiator
Blitz radiator cap
Circuit Sports coolant reservoir
Dual electric Altima fans (DIF controller yet to be installed)
Stock SR20DET S13 intake manifold, S13 throttle body (soon to install a 75mm TB and S14 TPS)
Z32 N62 MAF
Apexi Z32 suction kit
Injector Dynamics 1000cc top feed high impedance fuel injectors
HKS top feed fuel rail
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator and -8 AN push lock lines
Aeromotive -10 micron billet fuel filter
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
A/C removed
Rebuilt alternator
RPS Max stage 3 clutch
Nissan OEM clutch slave cylinder with braided stainless line
B&M quick shifter
Nismo rubber shift knob
1 piece aluminum lightened driveshaft
Nismo motor mounts

Impressions:

The installation of the T25-EWG-44 did not allow enough space to mount the Tial MV-R waste gate directly on the turbo housing, so my mechanic fabricated a 90 degree elbow (like what ATP sells) to mount the Tail vertically below the brake master cylinder. He then custom fabricated a dump tube down inbetween the bell housing and firewall. Overall the installation turned out very clean. The Greddy tubular exhaust manifold with 4 coats of ceramic coating turned out fantastic. It is a very stout manifold compared to everything else I have seen.

Driving impresson? Man that waste gate dump tube is obnoxiously loud

So far I haven't been able to get an Enthalpy tune that will work on the car. It runs rich at idle (11.5-12:1 AFR), no load going through the gears 14.7:1, on boost around 13.4:1 range, which means I have to be disciplined to stay out of boost. I am installing a new Aeromotive 340lph Stealth pump tomorrow and a 60 amp relay direct to the trunk/hatch mounted Odyssey PC925 battery. It appears to be more laggy than the previous .64AR setup, but I think it is possibly because it is slightly lean and not getting enough fuel to spool to full boost in the 3.5K RPM-4K RPM range (It won’t hit full boost until 4K, which is too late). I also suspect that maybe the 1.1Bar waste gate spring is too high and I should lower it, which would let my boost controller to more of the work.

Since I have had trouble getting a ROM tune to work, I have been thinking that I will have to either go with an AEM EMS Series 2 standalone or an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro. Several pro-am drifters locally have had issues with the EMS rev lifter causing displaced rocker arms or shims, when it has never happened with a Power FC. Thus, my mechanic is currently suggesting that the Power FC is a good option. I will be doing whatever it takes to tune the car will be tuned properly, within the next week or two max.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
Since I have had trouble getting a ROM tune to work, I have been thinking that I will have to either go with an AEM EMS Series 2 standalone or an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro. Several pro-am drifters locally have had issues with the EMS rev lifter causing displaced rocker arms or shims, when it has never happened with a Power FC. Thus, my mechanic is currently suggesting that the Power FC is a good option. I will be doing whatever it takes to tune the car will be tuned properly, within the next week or two max.
It's funny you mention that, I'm having the same problem even on a sinlge cam. I keep collapsing lifters. I've never collapsed one untill the AEM was installed. Jason a PSI does good work though, I look forward to your numbers!

-Tim
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
Since it is very hard to find pictures of anyone actually doing it, below is my installation of the .73AR T25-EWG-44 exhaust housing on a GT2871R, which allows for the use of a 44mm Tial wastegate.

Impressions:

The installation of the T25-EWG-44 did not allow enough space to mount the Tial MV-R waste gate directly on the turbo housing, so my mechanic fabricated a 90 degree elbow (like what ATP sells) to mount the Tail vertically below the brake master cylinder. He then custom fabricated a dump tube down inbetween the bell housing and firewall. Overall the installation turned out very clean. The Greddy tubular exhaust manifold with 4 coats of ceramic coating turned out fantastic. It is a very stout manifold compared to everything else I have seen.

Driving impresson? Man that waste gate dump tube is obnoxiously loud

So far I haven't been able to get an Enthalpy tune that will work on the car. It runs rich at idle (11.5-12:1 AFR), no load going through the gears 14.7:1, on boost around 13.4:1 range, which means I have to be disciplined to stay out of boost. I am installing a new Aeromotive 340lph Stealth pump tomorrow and a 60 amp relay direct to the trunk/hatch mounted Odyssey PC925 battery. It appears to be more laggy than the previous .64AR setup, but I think it is possibly because it is slightly lean and not getting enough fuel to spool to full boost in the 3.5K RPM-4K RPM range (It won’t hit full boost until 4K, which is too late). I also suspect that maybe the 1.1Bar waste gate spring is too high and I should lower it, which would let my boost controller to more of the work.

Since I have had trouble getting a ROM tune to work, I have been thinking that I will have to either go with an AEM EMS Series 2 standalone or an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro. Several pro-am drifters locally have had issues with the EMS rev lifter causing displaced rocker arms or shims, when it has never happened with a Power FC. Thus, my mechanic is currently suggesting that the Power FC is a good option. I will be doing whatever it takes to tune the car will be tuned properly, within the next week or two max.
Whoa this is AWESOME. EXACTLY what I am looking for! Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:47 PM   #11
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wow that looks way more clean than the other setup I saw. Thanks for pics!

So the MV-R is able to sit upright without touching the BMC? right?
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:30 PM   #12
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yes, the MV-R clears the brake master cylinder by probably a half an inch I think. I will have to take better pictures.

PSI in Portland will be doing the tuning by the way, so I will probably be down in your neck of the woods quite soon. Garage Autohero did all the work.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sil14zenki View Post
what cam/valve spring combo is everyone using for this turbo?
i was thinking of tomei 256 poncams,bc valve springs and retainers.
can i just use the stock valves and do a 5 angle valve job. or new valves?
i'm looking for that sweet 350whp mark.
Tomei 256 will get you there for sure, no need to touch the valves at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
so my mechanic fabricated a 90 degree elbow (like what ATP sells) to mount the Tail vertically below the brake master cylinder. He then custom fabricated a dump tube down inbetween the bell housing and firewall. Overall the installation turned out very clean.
That did turn out pretty slick for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
It appears to be more laggy than the previous .64AR setup, but I think it is possibly because it is slightly lean and not getting enough fuel to spool to full boost in the 3.5K RPM-4K RPM range(It won’t hit full boost until 4K, which is too late).
I'd say those results are probably due to the housing more than anything, and obviously safer timing charts from Enthalpy. there is no doubt more aggressive tuning can get it to light, but lets also not forget that torque onset is what chucks rods out of blocks too.

The difference in .64 housing cars to .86 is night and day...and I can see the ATP housing being similar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
I also suspect that maybe the 1.1Bar waste gate spring is too high and I should lower it, which would let my boost controller to more of the work.
It's possible, but unlikely. Tial gates aren't very 'lazy' and usually begin to open only slightly before their spring pressure is reached. Again this would be a stretch more than anything. Usually you fight issues like that with smaller springs, not the larger ones.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
I'd say those results are probably due to the housing more than anything, and obviously safer timing charts from Enthalpy. there is no doubt more aggressive tuning can get it to light, but lets also not forget that torque onset is what chucks rods out of blocks too.

The difference in .64 housing cars to .86 is night and day...and I can see the ATP housing being similar.
So since the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44 .72 A/R is roughly in between the .64 and .86 it should be a bit more responsive than the .86 and the stock exhaust manifold with an external wg will be more responsive than the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44, correct?
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usdm180sx View Post
So since the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44 .72 A/R is roughly in between the .64 and .86 it should be a bit more responsive than the .86 and the stock exhaust manifold with an external wg will be more responsive than the Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44, correct?
As HuffandPuff described, it will probably be more along the lines of the .86 housing in terms of response, more than anything.

In pure response, the Stock Manifold (with or without external gate) and .64 is the cat's meow in regard to seat of pants grunt/response.
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim38 View Post
yes, the MV-R clears the brake master cylinder by probably a half an inch I think. I will have to take better pictures.

PSI in Portland will be doing the tuning by the way, so I will probably be down in your neck of the woods quite soon. Garage Autohero did all the work.
Oh cool, jason and john will take care of you. Lmk when your car is at psi, I want to go check it out in person! My car is there now getting re-wired and tuned with the Codyace ewg setup, But i am looking to switching over to the atp t25 ewg, im realy liking how clean it tuned out!
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:59 AM   #17
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I had a rocker jump off at about 5k rpm. Had my PFC D-jet set to about 7k and had tomei RAS installed. So it can happen with the PFCs.

This was on my 2871R setup also.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:14 PM   #18
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I tried 12 pulls on the DynoJet (75 degF ambient temp, ~15% RH) and got the same results each time. How/why is the torque so high? (TQ number seems ridiculously high!) Why does the power and torque dip down? Can you guys help me figure out what's going on here?

**I appologize for the crappy pic!**



This is an S15 SR with an S13 Enthalpy tune for a Z32 MAF, HKS 264/264 cams (no more VTC), 830CC Douchewerks injectors, and a 2871R .64. The engine CP pistons with the stock compression ratio. Stock intake and exhaust manifolds, stock S13 coils, and stock S13 throttle body. The plugs are just cheap Denso's for a Z32.

The AFR held at 10.2 on their sniffer, but 10.8 on my AEM.

The boost spiked at around 24psi, and I'm not sure if it's the crappy manual boost controller or the turbo that causes it to drop back down to 18psi and hold there. My boost gauge was on par with theirs. Also, does peak boost at 4.5K RPM look right?
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:55 AM   #19
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Anyone have any insight to share on the FRSport internal wastegates? My stock wastegate finally gave up the ghost on my GT2871 and I'm considering all my options.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:49 AM   #20
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I tried 12 pulls on the DynoJet (75 degF ambient temp, ~15% RH) and got the same results each time. How/why is the torque so high? (TQ number seems ridiculously high!) Why does the power and torque dip down? Can you guys help me figure out what's going on here?
Well, the tq was prolly high because of the boost spike in the beginning, since it dropped down 6psi towards the end, it makes sense that the numbers will fall off, don't it? Stock intake manifold is most likely not helping up top either.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:15 AM   #21
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Ugh, went to the track Sunday to get one more time on my stock turbo before I dropped the 2871 in, and I snapped the output shaft on my trans during my first burnout. I don't get what happened, my tires were still spinning pretty good. So now I have to get a new trans. Also getting a new clutch, fuck this spec garbage.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:18 AM   #22
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Ugh, went to the track Sunday to get one more time on my stock turbo before I dropped the 2871 in, and I snapped the output shaft on my trans during my first burnout. I don't get what happened, my tires were still spinning pretty good. So now I have to get a new trans. Also getting a new clutch, fuck this spec garbage.
Yea that has happened to me before too. I was racing a supra, got nervous and launched the car way too hard and sheared the output shaft. Had to get a new trans and new front driveshaft.

And yea get rid of the spec. A brand I really like is DVD racing clutches. They also go by southbend clutches. I think I got the stage 3.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:06 AM   #23
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:49 AM   #24
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i got a generic 6 puck from tennessee clutch and supply. found them in a thread on nico when googling. $140 for a 6 puck kevlar/ceramic. comes with bearings, alignment tool, disk, and 1800lb pressure plate.

Maxima Clutch for sr20det?? : SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)

for $140, ill give it a shot. guys in the thread they use them with similar power ~400 and no issues. sadly though, i was stockish when i sheared the shaft, all the upgrade stuff is sitting at home...
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:37 AM   #25
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^^^Ive had Tennessee Clutch and Supply's info saved on my hardrive for long time. I'm also considering buying one after my Competition Clutch goes out. Ive heard great reviews about that six puck and the price is great too.

I'm interested in a review
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:39 AM   #26
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for sure. going to suck breaking in a new clutch with the 2871 on there lol.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #27
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Ok, guys, the new motor has about 80 miles on it now. Car pulls hard at 14psi, gonna turn it up very soon. Should hit the dyno to see some numbers in about a week or so.

Setup:
CP 86.5mm 9:1
Eagle rods
Cosworth 1.5 HG
Sard 850's
Gt2871r 56Trim .64
Stock exhaust mani with Tial mv-s gate
Stock intake mani
ARP Main and head Studs
Tomie 256's PonCams
Mid-Mount
Z32 maf
JWT tune
Exedy Stage2 Clutch+stock flywheel
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:27 AM   #28
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^^Awesome. Be sure to post your chart after you hit the dyno..
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:29 AM   #29
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What does everyone do about the compressor outlet being so close to the exhaust mani. Will a silicone coupler last right there? I don't want to get a pipe welded to it, any other options.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:35 PM   #30
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Another plus for external gate setups, clocking the turbo!
clock the compressor housing!
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