Best oil to run

[smelly240]

so everyone knows - racing oil is supposed to be changed per event. dont go putting racing oil in your engine to drive around.

[Soup Nazi]

Originally Posted by smelly240

The thing about amsoil is that ur local shits wont carry it - ever. they forbid any chain from selling it.

So its not hard to get-just not worth it for really expensive oil.

great product, just harder to justify.

The german castrol however will be at most autozones. MAKE SURE U GET THE RED Square areound 0w30 - and it says made in germany on back (the USA made 0w30 went out of production in 02 so mostly u'll see german made anymore)

Pennz Plat and mobil1 is everywhere and Pennz u can get crazy deals on.

That is correct, it should also say "European Formula" on the front as well.


Thanks if i ever need some I'll PM you. Sometimes my local AZ is out of it.

[MrChow]

Quaker State Q synthetic anyone?? I had a good exp with them. But I've been running castrol synthetic a lot. I ran everything else. But then again I'm on my stock KA.

I usually get whatever good deals are going on at autozone. ATM I believe it's 5 qt. of Pennziol Platinum or Quaker State Q synthetic and K&N oil filter, for 29.99. Great deal.

[Grimsta]

There are lots of good oils. Eneos, RP, Amsoil & the ultimate Redline are all good. Personally I use Eneos 0w50 in my Supra because it has given me better oil pressure and temps than anything else, but thats my case. I believe you need to experiment to see what works best in your particular situation with your particular engine and setup. If you decide to roll w/ Eneos or Royal Purple PM me as I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised at our oil prices

[smelly240]

how can you compare eneos with RP? one offers great protection the other offers less than good.

[upSLIDEdown]

I ran Mobil1 5w30 and 10w30 depending on season in my KA for 8 years. I bought the car with 156k on it, and when I pulled the KA, it sat at 248,800. Never an ounce of trouble with it. My cousin bought it to rebuild. He and my uncle tore it down and my uncle told me it was the cleanest engine he's ever torn apart, especially with a quarter of a million miles on it.

Mobil1 in the SR all day, erry day.

[JRas]

I like Mobile 1, it's easy to find and relatively cheap.

I use 10w-30 here in Arizona

[hOngsterr]

eneos is good im guess cuz its from japen T_T lol
i heard that if you stop using royal purple it starts messing up the engine! O.o?
but i'd use mobil 1

[DrIvEsldEwAyS]

i ran 10w-30 for ever

now with built bottom end i run 20w-50.

[Grimsta]

Originally Posted by hOngsterr

eneos is good im guess cuz its from japen T_T lol
i heard that if you stop using royal purple it starts messing up the engine! O.o?
but i'd use mobil 1

Originally Posted by smelly240

how can you compare eneos with RP? one offers great protection the other offers less than good.

First one is a myth, lots of myths in the oil world. And so is the second one. Here we go:
Royal Purple is a "boutique" oil in that it's a Group IV & Group V blend of PAO and ester base stocks. Their consumer line of motor oil is API certified to SL specifications, with the exception of the 20W-50 which is a SJ spec...their XPR racing line is not API/ILSAC certified. In addition, the 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are rated API energy conserving. I do not recommend you use the XPR line in a street car...it lacks many of the additives you want in a daily driven machine. In this case, "racing" is not better

Royal Purple oils are more slanted toward the hi-performance/racing crowd in general and as a result, the additive pack contains less detergents and anti-oxidants than what you will see in German Castrol or Redline. Unless you do oil analysis, a 5000 mile change interval will keep the oil from degrading to the point where it's not doing it's job....IMO, a 8000 mile OCI would be safe for this oil if city driving is what you primarily do. The filter will need to be changed at the 4000 mile point for an 8K OCI.

Royal Purple's color comes from dye used in the formulation; German Castrol was green a couple of years ago (elves?) for the same reason. All oils (including syn oils) are refined clear...dye is added for marketing. Moly comes in two forms (maybe more)...inorganic MoS2 which must be in a carrier (suspension) to flow and an organic type which is soluble in oil. Royal Purple uses the organic moly as a friction modifier and actually contains less organic moly than Redline does. This type of moly will not clog up your filter.

I would like to point out something you will see on oil data sheets that's fairly common concerning viscosity:

Royal Purple 5W-30
40 deg C - 65.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 11.0 centistrokes

Royal Purple 10W-30
40 deg C - 70.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 10.7 centistrokes

The 5W oil is a bit thinner than the 10W at cold temps as expected, but the 5W is actually thicker than the 10W at operating temp. This is due to the friction modifiers used in the oil and illustrates another point: Oil never thickens up when hot, it always thins to the SAE viscosity spec shown in the 2nd number on the API stamp.

Auto and manual transmission oils live a much easier life than motor oil...they do not have to deal with combustion by-products. As a result, most will perform very well. Royal Purple's manual transmission oil is excellent...most syn oils of this type are. Redline is another excellent choice.

Auto tranny oil is actually hydraulic oil. The #1 killer is heat....all of them (DEXRON III spec) will perform well if you have a good cooler. Adding a transmission filter pre-cooler is also a very good idea, as is a temp gauge. Royal Purple, Redline, Castrol, and Valvoline are excellent choices.

Royal Purple 80W-90 and Redline 75W-90 LSD oils work very well in a LSD that's in good shape. Keep in mind, both contain the friction modifiers necessary for the LSD...Redline 75W-90 NS does not have the modifiers. However, if the LSD has a lot of wear, either of these syn LSD oils may cause excessive slip. In this case, the Ford 75W-90 may be a better choice...you will also need the Ford friction modifier.

Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products

Now saving the best for last. Personally I use Nippon Eneos 0w50 now in my race Surpa:
Quality grade RG/API SM
SAE viscosity grade 0W-50
Appearance Orange
Density (15°C), g/cm3 0.847
Flash point (COC), °C 232
Kinematic viscosity (40°C), mm2/s 104
(100°C), mm2/s 18.0
Viscosity index 192
Pour point, °C –45.0
TAN, mgKOH/g 2.3
TBN (HCl), mgKOH/g 6.4
Color (ASTM) L3.0

here is the MSDS, http://www.eneos.us/documents/MSDS_0W50.pdf
Unfortunately there is no data for some parameters i would like to know. I'll work on getting an oil sample of my used oil.
I was able to dig up a virgin oil analysis (VAO) done on the Eneos 0W-50:

Aluminum:1
Chromium:0
Iron:1
Copper:0
Lead:0
Tin:0
Molybdenum:42
Nickel:0
Manganese:0
Silver:0
Titanium:0
Potassium:2
Boron:59
Silicon:3
Sodium:7
Calcium:1811
Magnesium:20
Phosphorus:662
Zinc:790
Barium:0

SuS @210*F: 85.2
Flashpoint *F: 425
TBN: 8.5

It appears the 0W-50 is a PAO base stock with ester added as a seal conditioner. The add pack seems a bit light for a street driven car...though, the TBN was higher than the advertised 6.4. This oil is thinner than the other 50W multigrades on the market, meaning it will flow better, but not near as well as a 0W or 5W-30. Could be due to Eneos' focus on racing (like Royal Purple)...this oil does not look well suited to extended drain intervals, but should be fine for at least 5000 miles. Which is why I use it for racing. For a street driven car you would want to use Eneos' 5w40

In the track car, the engine temp however did run 10 degrees cooler overall taking the average temp from several events before the switch to Eneos and then after the switch. The Supra also maintained 5psi of oil press. higher when it was HOT!

So whether you need the 0w50 or 5w50 for racing, or 5w40 for your street car I have both available. The 50weights go for $9-$10 a quart where the 40weight is $7.

[usdm180sx]

I use Neo synthetic because Signal uses it and they only charge $45 for an oil change including oem filter. They also have Eneos for $65

[Mr.GT30]

i used Redline synthetic 15w-50, all year long no problem, i can get them really good deal through my work place. if u guy interesting let me know,, SoCAL peep you can come by and pick up

[smelly240]

Originally Posted by Grimsta

First one is a myth, lots of myths in the oil world. And so is the second one. Here we go:
Royal Purple is a "boutique" oil in that it's a Group IV & Group V blend of PAO and ester base stocks. Their consumer line of motor oil is API certified to SL specifications, with the exception of the 20W-50 which is a SJ spec...their XPR racing line is not API/ILSAC certified. In addition, the 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are rated API energy conserving. I do not recommend you use the XPR line in a street car...it lacks many of the additives you want in a daily driven machine. In this case, "racing" is not better

Royal Purple oils are more slanted toward the hi-performance/racing crowd in general and as a result, the additive pack contains less detergents and anti-oxidants than what you will see in German Castrol or Redline. Unless you do oil analysis, a 5000 mile change interval will keep the oil from degrading to the point where it's not doing it's job....IMO, a 8000 mile OCI would be safe for this oil if city driving is what you primarily do. The filter will need to be changed at the 4000 mile point for an 8K OCI.

Royal Purple's color comes from dye used in the formulation; German Castrol was green a couple of years ago (elves?) for the same reason. All oils (including syn oils) are refined clear...dye is added for marketing. Moly comes in two forms (maybe more)...inorganic MoS2 which must be in a carrier (suspension) to flow and an organic type which is soluble in oil. Royal Purple uses the organic moly as a friction modifier and actually contains less organic moly than Redline does. This type of moly will not clog up your filter.

I would like to point out something you will see on oil data sheets that's fairly common concerning viscosity:

Royal Purple 5W-30
40 deg C - 65.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 11.0 centistrokes

Royal Purple 10W-30
40 deg C - 70.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 10.7 centistrokes

The 5W oil is a bit thinner than the 10W at cold temps as expected, but the 5W is actually thicker than the 10W at operating temp. This is due to the friction modifiers used in the oil and illustrates another point: Oil never thickens up when hot, it always thins to the SAE viscosity spec shown in the 2nd number on the API stamp.

Auto and manual transmission oils live a much easier life than motor oil...they do not have to deal with combustion by-products. As a result, most will perform very well. Royal Purple's manual transmission oil is excellent...most syn oils of this type are. Redline is another excellent choice.

Auto tranny oil is actually hydraulic oil. The #1 killer is heat....all of them (DEXRON III spec) will perform well if you have a good cooler. Adding a transmission filter pre-cooler is also a very good idea, as is a temp gauge. Royal Purple, Redline, Castrol, and Valvoline are excellent choices.

Royal Purple 80W-90 and Redline 75W-90 LSD oils work very well in a LSD that's in good shape. Keep in mind, both contain the friction modifiers necessary for the LSD...Redline 75W-90 NS does not have the modifiers. However, if the LSD has a lot of wear, either of these syn LSD oils may cause excessive slip. In this case, the Ford 75W-90 may be a better choice...you will also need the Ford friction modifier.

Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products
Royal Purple Consumer Products

Now saving the best for last. Personally I use Nippon Eneos 0w50 now in my race Surpa:
Quality grade RG/API SM
SAE viscosity grade 0W-50
Appearance Orange
Density (15°C), g/cm3 0.847
Flash point (COC), °C 232
Kinematic viscosity (40°C), mm2/s 104
(100°C), mm2/s 18.0
Viscosity index 192
Pour point, °C –45.0
TAN, mgKOH/g 2.3
TBN (HCl), mgKOH/g 6.4
Color (ASTM) L3.0

here is the MSDS, http://www.eneos.us/documents/MSDS_0W50.pdf
Unfortunately there is no data for some parameters i would like to know. I'll work on getting an oil sample of my used oil.
I was able to dig up a virgin oil analysis (VAO) done on the Eneos 0W-50:

Aluminum:1
Chromium:0
Iron:1
Copper:0
Lead:0
Tin:0
Molybdenum:42
Nickel:0
Manganese:0
Silver:0
Titanium:0
Potassium:2
Boron:59
Silicon:3
Sodium:7
Calcium:1811
Magnesium:20
Phosphorus:662
Zinc:790
Barium:0

SuS @210*F: 85.2
Flashpoint *F: 425
TBN: 8.5

It appears the 0W-50 is a PAO base stock with ester added as a seal conditioner. The add pack seems a bit light for a street driven car...though, the TBN was higher than the advertised 6.4. This oil is thinner than the other 50W multigrades on the market, meaning it will flow better, but not near as well as a 0W or 5W-30. Could be due to Eneos' focus on racing (like Royal Purple)...this oil does not look well suited to extended drain intervals, but should be fine for at least 5000 miles. Which is why I use it for racing. For a street driven car you would want to use Eneos' 5w40

In the track car, the engine temp however did run 10 degrees cooler overall taking the average temp from several events before the switch to Eneos and then after the switch. The Supra also maintained 5psi of oil press. higher when it was HOT!

So whether you need the 0w50 or 5w50 for racing, or 5w40 for your street car I have both available. The 50weights go for $9-$10 a quart where the 40weight is $7.

have you done a UOA on Royal Purple yourself? Because test results of USED OIL DONT LIE.

UNused oil - means much less.

[RB240Mike]

I use valvoline 10w 30 haha. IMO synthetic sucks ass for SR's, I spun a rod bearing 5 minutes after putting synthentic in. Mobil 1 FTL