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Old 01-01-2014, 05:11 PM   #15721
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Looking for an apexi power fc pin out for an s15 sr20det
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:02 PM   #15722
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Can anyone recommend a good steering wheel hub ? I don't care about a quick release just a hub. Preferably under 100 dollars please.

And also if I were to buy a short hub, can you run them alone without a quick release ?
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:06 PM   #15723
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Can anyone recommend a good steering wheel hub ? I don't care about a quick release just a hub. Preferably under 100 dollars please.
Momo's are readily available for $50-$60ish.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:24 PM   #15724
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They resemble the cheap eBay boss hubs and I've heard the teeth that hook up to the steering column shaft can strip , correct me if I'm wrong . I want to be able to drive hard without worrying about that.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:38 PM   #15725
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They resemble the cheap eBay boss hubs and I've heard the teeth that hook up to the steering column shaft can strip , correct me if I'm wrong . I want to be able to drive hard without worrying about that.
5 years of driving a 240 on a track, never had anything close to that with a real Momo hub. Don't buy from eBay if your concern is product quality.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:41 PM   #15726
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how do i loosen the belt on the water pump in order to replace it on an s13 sr20det?
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:52 PM   #15727
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how do i loosen the belt on the water pump in order to replace it on an s13 sr20det?
The tensioner is kinda above and behind the alternator.
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:29 AM   #15728
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Can you remove the tint on the dmax tail light?
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:37 AM   #15729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da_crew10 View Post
They resemble the cheap eBay boss hubs and I've heard the teeth that hook up to the steering column shaft can strip , correct me if I'm wrong . I want to be able to drive hard without worrying about that.
or you can get the SPLASH boss hub, almost identical to the works bell one.
has the cool stamps

good shit been racing on it.

i got mine "on sale" from FRSPORT for like 60 bucks or something.

Slim hubs you can use it w/o a QR it would require you to sit closer doe.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:23 AM   #15730
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The tensioner is kinda above and behind the alternator.
by regularly loosening the bolts on the tensioner im able to just take the belt off? and when I retighten it how tight should they be?
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:51 AM   #15731
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Took the rear deck lid/speakercovers off and noticed this. Please tell me it's just speaker wire that the P.O cut....


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Old 01-02-2014, 06:49 AM   #15732
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i was looking at the PBM turbo inlet kits earlier and noticed on the t25 kit has a nipple for a crank case breather hose while the t28 does not.....

anyone have an answer as to why?

the reason i ask is i have a s15 sr w/ t28 and my crank case is breather hose isn't connected to anything
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:25 AM   #15733
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Have someone weld a fitting on.
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Old 01-02-2014, 02:08 PM   #15734
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Some how everytime I put my z32 brake caliper on the rotors the top of the caliper grinds on the rotor. I am 100% positive I have the correct caliper size/rotors. Any suggestions on what may cause this?
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Old 01-02-2014, 02:14 PM   #15735
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Some how everytime I put my z32 brake caliper on the rotors the top of the caliper grinds on the rotor. I am 100% positive I have the correct caliper size/rotors. Any suggestions on what may cause this?
If you're not using oem rotors it could just be lack of quality control from the rotors manufacturer grind a big of the calipe away or get different rotors
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:04 PM   #15736
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s14 Where does the cables go

my topmount harness has four connectors that go inside and im not sure where they go. i know one goes to the ecu but where does the white one go
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:07 PM   #15737
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my topmount harness has four connectors that go inside and im not sure where they go. i know one goes to the ecu but where does the white one go
if its a single cam car originally thats the dash plug iirc.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 01-02-2014, 06:48 PM   #15738
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damn cables

its dohc and thats what i thought at first but couldnt find the plug.
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:06 PM   #15739
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Took the rear deck lid/speakercovers off and noticed this. Please tell me it's just speaker wire that the P.O cut....


Looks like some aftermarket wiring for an AMP or CD changer. The only line there should be for the speakers and trunk light.
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:42 PM   #15740
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Took the rear deck lid/speakercovers off and noticed this. Please tell me it's just speaker wire that the P.O cut....
IIRC looks like the factory amp wiring. I had to loop mine in order to get the factory wiring to work with the speakers.

I have since installed a Rockford amp hooked up to my speakers. So the factory wiring is no longer used.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:00 PM   #15741
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How much are RHD shells generally worth? I've got a clean TX title 89 hatch RHD converted with an S15 firewall welded into place with an s15 dash, steering wheel and stuff. Frame rails are straight, never wrecked, no big dents anywhere, etc. I'm reselling my car into a clean 93 shell because I don't really care about the RHD and rather use that money on something else on the car.
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:35 PM   #15742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da_crew10 View Post
They resemble the cheap eBay boss hubs and I've heard the teeth that hook up to the steering column shaft can strip , correct me if I'm wrong . I want to be able to drive hard without worrying about that.
I bought the cheapest I could find on ebay back in the day,. and the little saftey button broke almost immediately. After that it just didnt want to come off. The bearings in the quick release just needed more greasing. Steering column stripping was never a concern. Get what you pay for tho

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How much are RHD shells generally worth? I've got a clean TX title 89 hatch RHD converted with an S15 firewall welded into place with an s15 dash, steering wheel and stuff. Frame rails are straight, never wrecked, no big dents anywhere, etc. I'm reselling my car into a clean 93 shell because I don't really care about the RHD and rather use that money on something else on the car.
Id price it the same as you would a standard shell + whatever the s15 dash/wheel/etc is worth to you
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:51 PM   #15743
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I have a cooling issue code p0300. I searched a few threads on over cooling. Didn't find too much. Do I have a97 stock ka24de with air intake. I had a random code show up i haven't touched anything. So I read up, I first changed the distributor cap and rotor. Cleared the code, hasn't come back. But car is running cold, 145-150º F not sure what next step would be. It has been in the 30ºs F lately.

Thanks
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:43 PM   #15744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Looks like some aftermarket wiring for an AMP or CD changer. The only line there should be for the speakers and trunk light.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hscalixto View Post
IIRC looks like the factory amp wiring. I had to loop mine in order to get the factory wiring to work with the speakers. .
Thank you both for your replys. I'll look into the factory amp location & wiring. Car has an aftermarkey head unit, speaker & wiring so I had no idea.

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I have a cooling issue code p0300. I searched a few threads on over cooling. Didn't find too much. Do I have a97 stock ka24de with air intake. I had a random code show up i haven't touched anything. So I read up, I first changed the distributor cap and rotor. Cleared the code, hasn't come back. But car is running cold, 145-150º F not sure what next step would be. It has been in the 30ºs F lately.

Thanks
For what it's worth, I just fixed my overcooling (would take forever to reach operating temp. & and drop to "C" when driving on the highway) turned out to be the seal on the thermostat had deteriorated. At least, that was the only visible explenation, afterall it was an oem nissan part but looked OLD AS HELL. Replaced it with oem from nissan and all is well.
Good luck... just my
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:54 PM   #15745
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Thank you both for your replys. I'll look into the factory amp location & wiring. Car has an aftermarkey head unit, speaker & wiring so I had no idea.
You didn't mention amp, but I'm assuming from the aftermarket wiring you have, thats what the speakers are run off of.

If all your speakers work, then I wouldn't worry about that missing harness. Unless you're thinking of going back to stock.
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:10 PM   #15746
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Oh, yeah car came with a amp & sub aswell. They "Did" work until a little rainy day spirited driving + amp not secure = all wires got yanked out & amp flew. :/

I probably won't be going back to stock, but sucks to see such hack job.
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:15 PM   #15747
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Quick question guys
How important to run a working ait sensor on kat and series 2?
I cant get mine to work. My tuner says not to worry about it too much..?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:43 PM   #15748
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;5521400'
For what it's worth, I just fixed my overcooling (would take forever to reach operating temp. & and drop to "C" when driving on the highway) turned out to be the seal on the thermostat had deteriorated. At least, that was the only visible explenation, afterall it was an oem nissan part but looked OLD AS HELL. Replaced it with oem from nissan and all is well.
Good luck... just my
Where did you order ot from? And isnit a diy thing or is it go to my mechanic?
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:16 PM   #15749
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^ it is most definitely a d.i.y. The hardest part I would assume is bleeding the cooling system afterwards. Though, I've drained the system twice now and never had a problem after refill & bleeding. Oh, and I bought the thermostat from the local Nissan dealer. $23
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:34 PM   #15750
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gotcha, I am going to have to do a lot of research soon on how to change it... is it like the alternator easy? you don't have the part number by any chance?
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