Durable Interior body paint (Gutted int) - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

MrFairlady · 11-07-2008, 08:41 PM

Yeah...Like which Rust paint are we talking about
This:

or what

Not the Oil based:

I'm gonna try the trunk 1st.Dependent on how smooth I can Brush it....Rolling it just seems impossible

WHat kind of brush - not a damn Foam Brush????

Def · 11-07-2008, 08:45 PM

You want the Rustoleum Professional - looks like the last one you put up. Thin it with acetone.

Use a foam roller(white, dense foam, pretty small like 5" wide), then a normal brush in some areas. It will flatten out with about 20% acetone in it pretty well.

I did my whole car like this, and I still wouldn't recommend it on the interior, especially if you aren't going to be careful about drips and stuff or think about wetsanding(impossible in the car).

Trust me, I've done enough ghetto "track car" painting to know - just rattle bomb it with the appliance epoxy. You'll get a nice gloss finish and save yourself tons of time. If you scratch it up in a year or so, just rattle bomb it again(not likely in my experience, unless a scratch or two bother you).

Red scotchbrite is a good surface prep agent before an acetone wipe down to prep the surface.

sileighty83 · 11-17-2008, 09:09 AM

I just did the rustoleum appliance epoxy rattle can on mine yesterday....good god does that shit stick to everything or what. Dont get me wrong im not trying to discourage but rather educate ppl first, cuz I'm not a paint expert and I learned the hard way. Masked off everything but the paint is so dense that it lingers in the air for a while, and will stick to what it lands on. Well apparently I had a small hole in my drop cloth and it leaked into my front interior luckily not to much was ruined, and I fixed it but Im still not finished either =(

In the end it looks good, but hey thats what matters right!

MrFairlady · 11-17-2008, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sileighty83

I just did the rustoleum appliance epoxy rattle can on mine yesterday....good god does that shit stick to everything or what. Dont get me wrong im not trying to discourage but rather educate ppl first, cuz I'm not a paint expert and I learned the hard way. Masked off everything but the paint is so dense that it lingers in the air for a while, and will stick to what it lands on. Well apparently I had a small hole in my drop cloth and it leaked into my front interior luckily not to much was ruined, and I fixed it but Im still not finished either =(

In the end it looks good, but hey thats what matters right!

Nice!

so did you Scuff the interior or just Spray it down.
have you had a chance test the Durability?

I'm going to probably Roll mine into are Booth @ work and spray in there so it will Suck it all out...Granted my Car is COMPLETLY Gutted.So it won't mater what it sticks to.

landins13 · 11-17-2008, 10:01 AM

i used engine enamle in my vw and it held up for about a year before i had to redo it, but i daily drive the car and move a lot of shit around, if you really want, paint it all and throw down a floor mat on the driverside and youll be fine.

sileighty83 · 12-01-2008, 04:40 PM

here u go "Mrfairlady" I finally finished it a week ago crappy pic but u get the jist...

bejota180sx · 12-01-2008, 04:55 PM

i just finished mine today ill take a pic tomorrow... it looks just like sileighty83, i removed the sound deadening, cleaned with laquer thinner, sanded it with 330grit, cleaned with acetone and the primered with rustoleum clean metal primer(its white) 5 cans, wetsanded and all that stuff, painted with rustoleum stop rust gloss white, looks great, tomorrow ill wetsand a bit and finish it off... turned out really nice, waaaaaaayy better than i imagined!

CharlesSot · 09-11-2016, 07:09 AM

I know this is a really old thread, but i want to say a few things for anybody who might be looking into this now.

1. USE DRY ICE!!! - I didn't and it was the hugest pain.
2. USE DRY ICE!!

After i was done with my gut, i got a right angle grinder with a wire wheel and lightly braised the surface.

Then applied POR 15 over the floor of the car
Then i did Herculiner- Roll on truck bed liner (did not want to do spray to make sure none of the electrical components would get anything inside)

Also it would be a great idea to check out the 4x4 forums and the classic car reno forums as those guys do that stuff ALL the time and they have great write ups/guides on what they did.

Gutting your interior is a huge project not to be taken lightly.
Additionally, 1 more tid bit - every bolt/screw etc that you take out IMMEDIATELY label where it goes as you take it out.

-Charles

11-07-2008, 08:41 PM	#31
MrFairlady Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Fascination Street,N.C Age: 45 Posts: 1,701 Trader Rating: (31) Rides Gallery: MrFairlady Feedback Score: 31 reviews	Yeah...Like which Rust paint are we talking about This: or what Not the Oil based: I'm gonna try the trunk 1st.Dependent on how smooth I can Brush it....Rolling it just seems impossible WHat kind of brush - not a damn Foam Brush???? __________________ z-tERty-2

11-17-2008, 10:01 AM	#35
landins13 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Baltimore Posts: 986 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	i used engine enamle in my vw and it held up for about a year before i had to redo it, but i daily drive the car and move a lot of shit around, if you really want, paint it all and throw down a floor mat on the driverside and youll be fine. __________________ NO HANDS IN PANTS!!

11-07-2008, 08:45 PM	#32
Def Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,701 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	You want the Rustoleum Professional - looks like the last one you put up. Thin it with acetone. Use a foam roller(white, dense foam, pretty small like 5" wide), then a normal brush in some areas. It will flatten out with about 20% acetone in it pretty well. I did my whole car like this, and I still wouldn't recommend it on the interior, especially if you aren't going to be careful about drips and stuff or think about wetsanding(impossible in the car). Trust me, I've done enough ghetto "track car" painting to know - just rattle bomb it with the appliance epoxy. You'll get a nice gloss finish and save yourself tons of time. If you scratch it up in a year or so, just rattle bomb it again(not likely in my experience, unless a scratch or two bother you). Red scotchbrite is a good surface prep agent before an acetone wipe down to prep the surface.

11-17-2008, 09:09 AM	#33
sileighty83 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Socal Posts: 742 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	I just did the rustoleum appliance epoxy rattle can on mine yesterday....good god does that shit stick to everything or what. Dont get me wrong im not trying to discourage but rather educate ppl first, cuz I'm not a paint expert and I learned the hard way. Masked off everything but the paint is so dense that it lingers in the air for a while, and will stick to what it lands on. Well apparently I had a small hole in my drop cloth and it leaked into my front interior luckily not to much was ruined, and I fixed it but Im still not finished either =( In the end it looks good, but hey thats what matters right!

12-01-2008, 04:40 PM	#36
sileighty83 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Socal Posts: 742 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	here u go "Mrfairlady" I finally finished it a week ago crappy pic but u get the jist...

12-01-2008, 04:55 PM	#37
bejota180sx Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 1,173 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	i just finished mine today ill take a pic tomorrow... it looks just like sileighty83, i removed the sound deadening, cleaned with laquer thinner, sanded it with 330grit, cleaned with acetone and the primered with rustoleum clean metal primer(its white) 5 cans, wetsanded and all that stuff, painted with rustoleum stop rust gloss white, looks great, tomorrow ill wetsand a bit and finish it off... turned out really nice, waaaaaaayy better than i imagined!

09-11-2016, 07:09 AM	#38
CharlesSot Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: New York City Posts: 21 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I know this is a really old thread, but i want to say a few things for anybody who might be looking into this now. 1. USE DRY ICE!!! - I didn't and it was the hugest pain. 2. USE DRY ICE!! After i was done with my gut, i got a right angle grinder with a wire wheel and lightly braised the surface. Then applied POR 15 over the floor of the car Then i did Herculiner- Roll on truck bed liner (did not want to do spray to make sure none of the electrical components would get anything inside) Also it would be a great idea to check out the 4x4 forums and the classic car reno forums as those guys do that stuff ALL the time and they have great write ups/guides on what they did. Gutting your interior is a huge project not to be taken lightly. Additionally, 1 more tid bit - every bolt/screw etc that you take out IMMEDIATELY label where it goes as you take it out. -Charles