Bear with me. 96 stock KA cranks but no start

[VegasNow]

Let me just get into it.

Driving to work and about a mile from work (30 miles driven already) the car just BOGS!! Hard. Push in the clutch, it dies. Let out the clutch, car starts but as soon as I push the accel, bogs again. As i slow into the turn (car currently running kinda) it roars back to life as if nothing happen, hit the accel and it goes for a bit then bogs out again. Clutch in, car dies, restarts with the key but bogs instantlly and never recovers. Towed home.

Fuel pump replaced while car was at work, didnt work. Hence car had to be towed home. Oh this is with over 3/4 a tank of fuel.
Things I've checked
-timing on distributor
- fuel pressure
-spark yes i have it
-every cyc compression 140's all 4
- regapped the plugs to .044 (was at .036)
- cleaned the MAF (brand new but meh did it anyway)
- injector resistance all at 11.0-11.3
- NOID checked injector pulse, nice and strong light
- battery voltage normal, i have an additional pack attached when cranking
- hoses all checked and replaced ones that needed it (replaced the raditator about a month ago due to a leak below the intake)
- vacuum check good, goes with above
- only code i have is for the IACV. and the stupid N/park switch (it a manual, i know)
-(EDIT after KAT info) replaced coolant temp sensor.

Hope there is something I'm missing. Please help and thanks!!

[slideways23]

Does it only happen after it's warmed up? Cuz it Could be your ECT. But you should clean your IACV and check Your O2 sensors


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[VegasNow]

Doesn't start at all. Last time it ran was on my way to work. Will clean IACV and update since i can't test O2 without it running. Unless theres way not showing up on Google?

[KAT-PWR]

Unbolt fuel rail, set a blue paper towel under it. Key-on, make sure no fuel is pouring passed the injectors/no injectors stuck open......crank the car a couple times. You'll see where each injector has sprayed.

Check coolant temp sensor asap

[Karlhammer]

Tps take a shit? You have access to a different whole throttle body to swap on?

[VegasNow]

Originally Posted by Karlhammer

Tps take a shit? You have access to a different whole throttle body to swap on?

No other codes. And this wouldn't "prevent" it from starting would it?

[Karlhammer]

It might not throw codes and honestly I'm unsure whether that would inhibit it from starting. Seems like you've checks all the vitals. Do you have access to another ecu? Or take yours out to see if it smells burnt. I've also had a couple cases where the connector cases crack and the pins push out, won't allow a signal through. Stupid as it is, have a buddy wiggle wires around while your trying to start it. Maybe something finally let loose. He cars are older now. Plastic sucks when it gets heat cycled.

[VegasNow]

Originally Posted by Karlhammer

It might not throw codes and honestly I'm unsure whether that would inhibit it from starting. Seems like you've checks all the vitals. Do you have access to another ecu? Or take yours out to see if it smells burnt. I've also had a couple cases where the connector cases crack and the pins push out, won't allow a signal through. Stupid as it is, have a buddy wiggle wires around while your trying to start it. Maybe something finally let loose. He cars are older now. Plastic sucks when it gets heat cycled.

I do have another ECU, BUT its from an 95 a/t (has the 3D marking). If it don't care about some missing things i would think it would work, right?

[Karlhammer]

buddy used an auto ecu on his manual swap for a while. it was a stock motor though. what size injectors do you have?

[mechanicalmoron]

Check timing - mechanical (you have uniformly low compression) and spark (distributor rotors can spin, twist, or otherwise fail, and throw timing dramatically off, with exactly your symptoms).

Check fuel pressure, or at least squeeze a hose at the rail, as well. Maybe check spray, as was said.

Doubtful it's a sensor or computer problem if NOTHING happens, but you have fuel, spark, and compression - that screams timing.

[VegasNow]

Originally Posted by Karlhammer

buddy used an auto ecu on his manual swap for a while. it was a stock motor though. what size injectors do you have?

Stock Injectors, everything is stock! except the exhaust, comes out in front of the driver rear tire with a DC sport muffler welded in.

[VegasNow]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Check timing - mechanical (you have uniformly low compression) and spark (distributor rotors can spin, twist, or otherwise fail, and throw timing dramatically off, with exactly your symptoms).

Check fuel pressure, or at least squeeze a hose at the rail, as well. Maybe check spray, as was said.

Doubtful it's a sensor or computer problem if NOTHING happens, but you have fuel, spark, and compression - that screams timing.

As said in my OP, already checked. TDC line on crank pulley lines up with #1 cylinder on distributor.

[loki240]

I had a similar issue. I had a short in the wiring/Plug to the MAF. Would run fine, then something would shift and it'd just bog. MAF was fine, but wiring was faulty.

[R3b]

Not trying to derail and was going to make a thread but also having similar issues, ecu is reading 55 and everything on my block is new after rebuilding it. New coolant temp, iacv, 02, swapped a buddies working tps/my old was fine and had correct voltage, timing is good, fuel pressure is solid and maf is not new but did have an issue rewiring into my wiring specialties harness.

What happened was I wired the sub harness thinking it was to oem but WS purposly switches the ground middle wire in the stock ka harness to the outside. So when I tried starting the car, it melted the wire a bit and my ecu burnt up and wasnt getting power. Talked to WS, didnt want to hear it from me and were 0 help and not sympathetic even though its labeled as OEM and the only thing the describes was different was the s14 02 sesnor connector vs the single one.

Wires in the harness are fixed, doesnt look like its grounding out or bad connection, getting proper voltage on ignition and idle.

Im lost, same thing as you. Will start up fine, get good afrs but soon as I go to back out and rev past 2k because of my new puck clutch it either bogs and runs rich in the 10-10.3s, hunts then idles fine or it will rev fine but soon as I go drive 10 feet out in first it bogs, cant even rev past 1k and is undrivable since I cant even let off the clutch at so low rpms. Also noticed I cant bring down my idle when warm past 900950rpms. Tps voltage is good and IACV is maxed out on the idle screw, can only make it go higher. Cant get it to 750 for the proper timing but I am reading 20 BTDC on nissan datascan on my laptop.

Thinking its ecu because it did get burnt at pinout 4 with is 12v igition and didnt turn on. I did clean off the connection and solder in a better connection and turned on fine. If its not that its a leak even though I checked a million times and deleted everything egr and pcv related. Then lastly is some type of ground on WS harness/body harness or bad e85 in the tank since rebuilding the gas has been sitting for about 3-4 months, not sure if bad corn will make it run this pig rich with a fresh tune for 1000cc. Fuel rail isnt leaking and injectors are spraying good when cranked over.

[R3b]

My issue is fixed, maybe what I did could help?

1) Spread out my grounds for fans, harness, and maf. Also used a WS ground kit I had laying around and clean the shit off all the bolts, paint and clamps.
2) Tested my alt and brought a spare I had to test that. Said why not just swap in the spare I have for interest sake
3) went and messed with the throttle butterfly valve. When I would lightly tap the through it would jump my tps from .44-.50 and stay there. Now it doesnt do that but is dead on .44v

Funny enough but the car is running stupid lean in 17s lol even when im giving half throttle. Figured must be a leak, found a tiny one by spraying carb cleaner around my egr plate, idle went up and my boost gauge vac would jump around from 22ish to around 15ish so it was a leak. Going to put rtv on my block off plate and then put like 20psi on my compressor for other leaks.

[VegasNow]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Check timing - mechanical (you have uniformly low compression) and spark (distributor rotors can spin, twist, or otherwise fail, and throw timing dramatically off, with exactly your symptoms).

Check fuel pressure, or at least squeeze a hose at the rail, as well. Maybe check spray, as was said.

Doubtful it's a sensor or computer problem if NOTHING happens, but you have fuel, spark, and compression - that screams timing.

OK replaced ECU, no go. Removed the fuel rail and pressurized system, no leaks. Cranked once, good spray. Any other ideas. At wits end here!

[slideways23]

Have you check your ballast yet?


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[VegasNow]

Originally Posted by slideways23

Have you check your ballast yet?


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????????????

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by VegasNow

OK replaced ECU, no go. Removed the fuel rail and pressurized system, no leaks. Cranked once, good spray. Any other ideas. At wits end here!

Valve timing - make sure your chain didn't jump, which would explain your compression (other than wear, obviously), if the valves are opening at the wrong time. Or, do you have reference compression for this motor? Was it already 140?

Does the exhaust smell like fuel? Or pop if you crank a while? Does playing with the throttle do anything?

How did you check spark? Are you confident that it's sparking the same way while you crank?

No distributor control or crank angle sensor or similar type wires dragging on belts, or anything like that?



And, r3b, your ecu is fine, it's some combination of things you broke.

[VegasNow]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Valve timing - make sure your chain didn't jump, which would explain your compression (other than wear, obviously), if the valves are opening at the wrong time. Or, do you have reference compression for this motor? Was it already 140?

Does the exhaust smell like fuel? Or pop if you crank a while? Does playing with the throttle do anything?

How did you check spark? Are you confident that it's sparking the same way while you crank?

No distributor control or crank angle sensor or similar type wires dragging on belts, or anything like that?



And, r3b, your ecu is fine, it's some combination of things you broke.

Sorry been away, surgery does that. Yes timing is good, no chain jump, tension is great.
Exhaust reeks of fuel lol so since I have heated o2 sensor it does pop some.
Not sure how to test the distributor cam sensor angle, since it's internal, but I am getting spark. I tested with an in line spark tester. There are some wire near distributors but the go into boxes, dead end and we're like that when it ran. Only other thing I can think of is a permanent short in the 20 yo wiring that I haven't found. And wiringspecialies.com don't make a set for this stock car, I know it's stupid.

[kamilitaryman]

OP, what you're describing happened to me in my 95. It would run fine after sitting over night, but then would do it all over again shortly after running it the following day. I ended up dumping a bottle of fuel system cleaner, turned the car on and I let it idle for about an hour and then took it for some spirited driving to really get the fuel moving. It was completely fine after that. The issue never returned. It was a cheap fix!

[kamilitaryman]

Did you get this sorted out?

[VegasNow]

Nope still a wonder. Even replaced the Fuel pressure regulator thinking i was flooding the cylinders when the injectors did open. I am going to have to take it to Twisted Motion here in Vegas. I've run out of ideas.

[J90lude]

I've been down this road before in my old car....Although the culprit was something simple. I have a feeling it's something simple for you as well. As long as you got good numbers on your compression you'll be fine.