RB FAQ - Page 11 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

DirtyOldMan · 11-20-2008, 12:15 AM

whats the cross ref for rb20 clutch? is it z32 300zx?

eh? · 01-23-2009, 12:17 AM

Made a new website dedicated to RB engines check it out:
RBforums - Forums-RB parts catalog/wire diagrams/FSM's.

soon2bs13 · 01-29-2009, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eh?

Made a new website dedicated to RB engines check it out:
RBforums - Forums-RB parts catalog/wire diagrams/FSM's.

Very useful information!!

A couple of days ago, I finally got the 240 started up and drove it in the driveway. There are a couple of things that I am concerned about.

1. As I am cranking the motor, it is turning over and making a grinding sound. It starts up, but I was thinking maybe it has something to do with the Starter not engaging correctly.

2. When I am in neutral and open the throttle, it seems like there is a rev-limiter on it. I think that may be due to the MAF Sensor and/or wires. I am going to recheck those wires and make sure everything is solid. Anything else I should check into?

eh? · 01-30-2009, 05:34 AM

For #2 check your maf wiring. What RPM does it cut at?

soon2bs13 · 01-30-2009, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eh?

For #2 check your maf wiring. What RPM does it cut at?

not entirely sure. if i had to make an educated guess, i would say between 2500-4000 rpms. we only wired up the necessary wires to get the car started. i have to drive it from one place to another to get someone else to help me finish up the wiring.

soon2bs13 · 02-25-2009, 10:39 PM

on the intake manifold near the AAC Valve, there are 2 lines that i believe are vacuum lines and i was wanting to know if someone has a picture or information to where it connects to. i thought it was hooked up to the charcoal canister, but i am not sure.

Zacho · 02-28-2009, 03:25 AM

Hey man, hope this helps you out.

soon2bs13 · 02-28-2009, 11:55 PM

thanks Zacho!!

it looks like the lines are the "To Canister" and "to recirculation valve". since i do not have the charcoal canister, i can put a cap on those 2 lines, correct?

today i swapped the MAF wires (the black ones) and now i can rev higher than i used to. i tried to put it in gear and drive it and it was trying to stall out while letting the clutch out. could that possibly be a vaccuum leak?

eh? · 01-30-2009, 01:25 PM

If it's around there it's most likely maf wiring.

soon2bs13 · 01-30-2009, 01:31 PM

thanks!

i will check it out.

eklips3 · 02-08-2009, 03:01 PM

you know what else you can do to fix that rev limiter problem .

i remember in my car at one point did the same thing. turns out that it was the Cam Angle Sensor was barely connected thus rev limiting at the same point in your case 3-4K RPM .

so just check out the Cam angle sensor

soon2bs13 · 02-14-2009, 12:15 PM

Thanks. I will check that out as well.

Update on mine:

I believe that the starter is going bad. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it seems like when I try to crank it, it does not do anything. I tried another battery and that did not solve the issue, so I believe that it is the starter going out.

The car seems to idle fine, but when I put it into gear and let the clutch out, it dies. I made sure the connections on the MAF were good. I am going to try and switch the black/gray, black wire to see if that makes a difference or not.

Zacho · 02-16-2009, 11:28 AM

Hey guys, I couldn't find a post with anyone sharing the RB25 ecu codes...so I thought I would post them up. These are straight out of the ecr33 manual.

11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)
13 Coolant temperature circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition circuit
31 ECU (ouch!)
34 Knock sensor
43 Throttle position circuit
45 Injector leak
51 Ignition circuit
54 Auto signal to ECU
55 All OK

--->There are three different types of factory ECU available in Skylines.
One type has two LEDs and five modes
The second type has one LED and two modes
The last type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine checklight in the instrument cluster

. Acts as a single LED ECU.

How to check codes:

1. Switch on the ignition, but don't start. The LED on the ECU will be glowing.

2. Turn the selector screw clockwise all the way (gently!)

3. For two LED ECU's: the LED will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five. This is the diagnostic mode. Mode 1=one flash, mode 5=five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use.

4. For single LED ECU's: wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2.

5.The engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer.

The LED will flash out a code(or series of codes if there is more than one fault) The ECU will keep error codes in memory for 50starts, so keep in mind if an error happened 51 starts ago, there will be no record of it in the ECU.
More recent ECU's have two LED's (red = first digit, green

= second digit, for example, red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21)

The ECU's on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash =
second digit, for example, long, long, short = code 21.

Hope this helps you guys!

CAPoweredS14 · 04-01-2009, 11:15 PM

Ok, so after finishing a nice RB25 S2 swap into my S14 the last thing we do it run a 180 degree "U" to recirc the heater core input/output on teh motor. Well, it wasn't tightened down as good as I thought and when I started up motor it idles perfectly and everything was nice. Only thing is, a litle started to leak onto my starter and now I can't turn the key to start my car anymore, only push start. Luckily I have a hill down my driveway.

I could've sworn I read somewhere another starter could be used but is my only option an OEM one?

bardabe · 04-02-2009, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAPoweredS14

Ok, so after finishing a nice RB25 S2 swap into my S14 the last thing we do it run a 180 degree "U" to recirc the heater core input/output on teh motor. Well, it wasn't tightened down as good as I thought and when I started up motor it idles perfectly and everything was nice. Only thing is, a litle started to leak onto my starter and now I can't turn the key to start my car anymore, only push start. Luckily I have a hill down my driveway.

I could've sworn I read somewhere another starter could be used but is my only option an OEM one?

yep pretty much, get another OEM or get yours rebuilt

ANVIL · 04-02-2009, 01:25 PM

i cant get on nico club right now, but theres a US replacement for the starter, from what i remember its really cheap too. search the rb section there and you will find it.

racer98 · 04-08-2009, 03:49 PM

Just got some RB30E short blocks and will be making a couple hybrid swaps using Rb25 and RBb26 heads. will post all of the detailed modifications needed for the swap as well lots of missing info from posted guides that are posted online.

Set up 1

R34 Neo Turbo head swapped to the Rb30e bottom end - normal aspirated version / turbo version.

Set up 2

same as above but using the Rb26DETT head and intake

will post photos and steps needed.

ANVIL · 04-08-2009, 05:34 PM

sick.

not doing any S1 rb25 heads?

racer98 · 04-08-2009, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ANVIL

sick.

not doing any S1 rb25 heads?

using one to make an ITB set up right now lots of plans for the Rb30 block

.

CAPoweredS14 · 04-15-2009, 02:35 AM

Just thought I would post this... replacement for rb25det S2 starter is any 2.5L suburu starter. It's all Toshiba/Mitsubishi stuff just like is on our RBs..

eklips3 · 04-15-2009, 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAPoweredS14

Just thought I would post this... replacement for rb25det S2 starter is any 2.5L suburu starter. It's all Toshiba/Mitsubishi stuff just like is on our RBs..

i also heard somwhere that its possible to use a sentra starter , not sure what year though

ANVIL · 04-15-2009, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAPoweredS14

Just thought I would post this... replacement for rb25det S2 starter is any 2.5L suburu starter. It's all Toshiba/Mitsubishi stuff just like is on our RBs..

are s1 and s2 starters different? is that the starter that you are using? so are 2.5 RS and STI starters are the same?

8gti9 · 04-23-2009, 02:22 PM

hello there, first post.

i'm installing a s2 rb25det into my s13 coupe and i'm trying to find a way to adjust the tach signal. now i know you can use the j30 tachometer and they are available anywhere ie: ebay, junkyards. but i have h.u.d. in my car. will this in any way affect the electronics in my hud? has anyone tried it before? i don't want to switch to analog speedo cluster.

i found link a few weeks back that show step by step on how to adjust (w/ pics) the tach from the back w/o having to replace the gauge itself. does anyone know? tried googling it but i forgot how i word it.

thnx

ProjNightshade · 04-23-2009, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8gti9

hello there, first post.

i'm installing a s2 rb25det into my s13 coupe and i'm trying to find a way to adjust the tach signal. now i know you can use the j30 tachometer and they are available anywhere ie: ebay, junkyards. but i have h.u.d. in my car. will this in any way affect the electronics in my hud? has anyone tried it before? i don't want to switch to analog speedo cluster.

i found link a few weeks back that show step by step on how to adjust (w/ pics) the tach from the back w/o having to replace the gauge itself. does anyone know? tried googling it but i forgot how i word it.

thnx

I'm also interested in this. I have an s2 going into an s14 so no HUD. what about the speedometer? i have searched, but the way it was worded confused me even further. I just want to know what I need to do to get them working. Help us out! Thanks.

8gti9 · 04-23-2009, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProjNightshade

I'm also interested in this. I have an s2 going into an s14 so no HUD. what about the speedometer? i have searched, but the way it was worded confused me even further. I just want to know what I need to do to get them working. Help us out! Thanks.

i think for the speedo u wanna use a '96 300zx z32 n/a vss m/t.

but i might be wrong

skyvia25 · 05-25-2009, 05:56 PM

any one knows how to install the water tube into a gredy style intake manifold. my came seperated and it looks like its brass or copper. i took it to get it welded but the guy said he could n do it, i heard that u could just push it in with a rubber mallet, but min is to loose and it just goes in any ideas tnx..

ANVIL · 06-03-2009, 12:08 PM

coat it with a bunch of red high temp sealant and push it in, or go to your local home depot and get a peiece of tube that fits better and also coat it with sealant to prevent leaks

Skyn · 06-15-2009, 01:52 PM

im putting an rb20 in an S14
any suggestions on what i can pick off my Ka stuff and use with RB

and also which trans can go on it besides an rb one and suggestions on mounts or is this gonna be almost direct

eh? · 06-17-2009, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyn

im putting an rb20 in an S14
any suggestions on what i can pick off my Ka stuff and use with RB

and also which trans can go on it besides an rb one and suggestions on mounts or is this gonna be almost direct

I'm pretty sure people have been using the stock KA xmember with RB mounts and you can use the stock driveshaft. You can use the KA radiator also. Only the RB bell housing will work so you can't use another tranny (unless you swapped the bell housing)

soon2bs13 · 06-29-2009, 05:46 PM

okay guys... my 240sx project is nearly completed. the major thing left to do is get it painted and figure out the wiring for the tach/speedometer.

anyone have a link that will help explain how to wire up the transmission to get the speedo/tach working? Am I just going to have to get an aftermarket Tach? I tried searching, but could not find what I was looking for. Maybe someone who has seen a thread before can point me in the right direction.

thanks!

02-25-2009, 10:39 PM	#6
soon2bs13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: TN Posts: 482 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	on the intake manifold near the AAC Valve, there are 2 lines that i believe are vacuum lines and i was wanting to know if someone has a picture or information to where it connects to. i thought it was hooked up to the charcoal canister, but i am not sure. __________________ neg repping is cool!!

02-28-2009, 11:55 PM	#8
soon2bs13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: TN Posts: 482 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	thanks Zacho!! it looks like the lines are the "To Canister" and "to recirculation valve". since i do not have the charcoal canister, i can put a cap on those 2 lines, correct? today i swapped the MAF wires (the black ones) and now i can rev higher than i used to. i tried to put it in gear and drive it and it was trying to stall out while letting the clutch out. could that possibly be a vaccuum leak? __________________ neg repping is cool!!

01-30-2009, 01:31 PM	#10
soon2bs13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: TN Posts: 482 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	thanks! i will check it out. __________________ neg repping is cool!!

02-08-2009, 03:01 PM	#11
eklips3 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary Canada Age: 34 Posts: 626 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	you know what else you can do to fix that rev limiter problem . i remember in my car at one point did the same thing. turns out that it was the Cam Angle Sensor was barely connected thus rev limiting at the same point in your case 3-4K RPM . so just check out the Cam angle sensor __________________ 1992 240sx (RB20. 362whp@16psi)

02-14-2009, 12:15 PM	#12
soon2bs13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: TN Posts: 482 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Thanks. I will check that out as well. Update on mine: I believe that the starter is going bad. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it seems like when I try to crank it, it does not do anything. I tried another battery and that did not solve the issue, so I believe that it is the starter going out. The car seems to idle fine, but when I put it into gear and let the clutch out, it dies. I made sure the connections on the MAF were good. I am going to try and switch the black/gray, black wire to see if that makes a difference or not. __________________ neg repping is cool!!

11-20-2008, 12:15 AM	#1
DirtyOldMan Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: NORCAL - SAC NOT Bayarea NOT So Cal NOT Anywhere Else! JUST SACRAMENTO Age: 34 Posts: 275 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	whats the cross ref for rb20 clutch? is it z32 300zx?

01-23-2009, 12:17 AM	#2
eh? Zilvia Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Orlando, FL Age: 43 Posts: 283 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Made a new website dedicated to RB engines check it out: RBforums - Forums-RB parts catalog/wire diagrams/FSM's.

01-30-2009, 05:34 AM	#4
eh? Zilvia Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Orlando, FL Age: 43 Posts: 283 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	For #2 check your maf wiring. What RPM does it cut at?

02-28-2009, 03:25 AM	#7
Zacho Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 217 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Hey man, hope this helps you out.

01-30-2009, 01:25 PM	#9
eh? Zilvia Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Orlando, FL Age: 43 Posts: 283 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	If it's around there it's most likely maf wiring.

02-16-2009, 11:28 AM	#13
Zacho Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 217 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Hey guys, I couldn't find a post with anyone sharing the RB25 ecu codes...so I thought I would post them up. These are straight out of the ecr33 manual. 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter) 13 Coolant temperature circuit 14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit 21 Ignition circuit 31 ECU (ouch!) 34 Knock sensor 43 Throttle position circuit 45 Injector leak 51 Ignition circuit 54 Auto signal to ECU 55 All OK --->There are three different types of factory ECU available in Skylines. One type has two LEDs and five modes The second type has one LED and two modes The last type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine checklight in the instrument cluster. Acts as a single LED ECU. How to check codes: 1. Switch on the ignition, but don't start. The LED on the ECU will be glowing. 2. Turn the selector screw clockwise all the way (gently!) 3. For two LED ECU's: the LED will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five. This is the diagnostic mode. Mode 1=one flash, mode 5=five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use. 4. For single LED ECU's: wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2. 5.The engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer. The LED will flash out a code(or series of codes if there is more than one fault) The ECU will keep error codes in memory for 50starts, so keep in mind if an error happened 51 starts ago, there will be no record of it in the ECU. More recent ECU's have two LED's (red = first digit, green = second digit, for example, red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21) The ECU's on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit, for example, long, long, short = code 21. Hope this helps you guys!

04-01-2009, 11:15 PM	#14
CAPoweredS14 Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: League City Age: 39 Posts: 209 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: CAPoweredS14 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ok, so after finishing a nice RB25 S2 swap into my S14 the last thing we do it run a 180 degree "U" to recirc the heater core input/output on teh motor. Well, it wasn't tightened down as good as I thought and when I started up motor it idles perfectly and everything was nice. Only thing is, a litle started to leak onto my starter and now I can't turn the key to start my car anymore, only push start. Luckily I have a hill down my driveway. I could've sworn I read somewhere another starter could be used but is my only option an OEM one?

04-02-2009, 01:25 PM	#16
ANVIL Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 1,174 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	i cant get on nico club right now, but theres a US replacement for the starter, from what i remember its really cheap too. search the rb section there and you will find it.

04-08-2009, 03:49 PM	#17
racer98 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: 六本木 Age: 46 Posts: 6,202 Trader Rating: (128) Feedback Score: 128 reviews	Just got some RB30E short blocks and will be making a couple hybrid swaps using Rb25 and RBb26 heads. will post all of the detailed modifications needed for the swap as well lots of missing info from posted guides that are posted online. Set up 1 R34 Neo Turbo head swapped to the Rb30e bottom end - normal aspirated version / turbo version. Set up 2 same as above but using the Rb26DETT head and intake will post photos and steps needed.

04-08-2009, 05:34 PM	#18
ANVIL Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 1,174 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	sick. not doing any S1 rb25 heads?

04-15-2009, 02:35 AM	#20
CAPoweredS14 Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: League City Age: 39 Posts: 209 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: CAPoweredS14 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just thought I would post this... replacement for rb25det S2 starter is any 2.5L suburu starter. It's all Toshiba/Mitsubishi stuff just like is on our RBs..

04-23-2009, 02:22 PM	#23
8gti9 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 19 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	hello there, first post. i'm installing a s2 rb25det into my s13 coupe and i'm trying to find a way to adjust the tach signal. now i know you can use the j30 tachometer and they are available anywhere ie: ebay, junkyards. but i have h.u.d. in my car. will this in any way affect the electronics in my hud? has anyone tried it before? i don't want to switch to analog speedo cluster. i found link a few weeks back that show step by step on how to adjust (w/ pics) the tach from the back w/o having to replace the gauge itself. does anyone know? tried googling it but i forgot how i word it. thnx

05-25-2009, 05:56 PM	#26
skyvia25 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: OC//SA//KILAFONIA//SUNY STATE// Age: 37 Posts: 90 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	any one knows how to install the water tube into a gredy style intake manifold. my came seperated and it looks like its brass or copper. i took it to get it welded but the guy said he could n do it, i heard that u could just push it in with a rubber mallet, but min is to loose and it just goes in any ideas tnx..

06-03-2009, 12:08 PM	#27
ANVIL Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 1,174 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	coat it with a bunch of red high temp sealant and push it in, or go to your local home depot and get a peiece of tube that fits better and also coat it with sealant to prevent leaks

06-15-2009, 01:52 PM	#28
Skyn Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Las vegas/Ewa Beach Age: 36 Posts: 657 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	im putting an rb20 in an S14 any suggestions on what i can pick off my Ka stuff and use with RB and also which trans can go on it besides an rb one and suggestions on mounts or is this gonna be almost direct

06-29-2009, 05:46 PM	#30
soon2bs13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: TN Posts: 482 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	okay guys... my 240sx project is nearly completed. the major thing left to do is get it painted and figure out the wiring for the tach/speedometer. anyone have a link that will help explain how to wire up the transmission to get the speedo/tach working? Am I just going to have to get an aftermarket Tach? I tried searching, but could not find what I was looking for. Maybe someone who has seen a thread before can point me in the right direction. thanks! __________________ neg repping is cool!!