The fabrication thread.

[drftmark]

Badass, I'm gonna have to get that then. I just thought I wasn't using enough gas.

I am currently ditching that brace, well not ditching, I think it would make a good wing mount, but for the trunk bracing I am cutting out metal on the stock bumper support instead.

I think that is a better route because the equation for the moment of inertia has depth increasing exponentially. The stock bumper support utilizes depth much better than the one I created. So I am just trying to lighten up the stock one.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by S@nt0s

for you guys who mig use anti spatter, it will prevent the slag/balls from sticking everywhere and then having to bang/sand them with the spray they fall right off

LuisGonz was telling me that someone makes a spray? I've got the 'gel' shit, that's a pain to use... I use it on stuff that I can't file down though (pack it in crevices right before welding near them, etc), but I'd love a good spray.

[atutt]

Wow, was it necessary to quote all those pics just to say that??? This shits a pain to load on my phone when people do dumb crap like that.


Anyways. as far as the anti-spatter goes.

They can be great. But, they'll cause more problems than they solve. You'll get porosity far more frequently.

Gels are the worst. Sprays are a bit better.
Just invest in a good scraper and some good flap discs.

I NEVER use the anti-spatter crap. It takes a min or two to clean up with a grinder or sander.

[GSXRJJordan]

No need to quote a billion images, just delete the [img] tags and the HTML in between, and you'll just quote the text.

Originally Posted by atutt

Wow, was it necessary to quote all those pics just to say that??? This shits a pain to load on my phone when people do dumb crap like that.


Anyways. as far as the anti-spatter goes.

They can be great. But, they'll cause more problems than they solve. You'll get porosity far more frequently.

Gels are the worst. Sprays are a bit better.
Just invest in a good scraper and some good flap discs.

I NEVER use the anti-spatter crap. It takes a min or two to clean up with a grinder or sander.

Thanks Atutt! I had a feeling it wasn't "a no brainer" since none of the pro's I know use anti-spatter stuff. I'll take a look at the sprays in the future for stuff that I can't grind/file out.

[drftmark]

those pics I took were right after welding. I usually hit them with the grinder afterward. Guess I won't be getting the gel stuff then.

[atutt]

i built myself a gnarly scrapper for hard to reach places. it's made out of a 1/4" thick saw blade, lol.

i suggest investing in some sort of small sanding/grinding tool. high powered rotary tools are great.

[S@nt0s]

pros not using spray????
ha if i posted the pic of the FULL CHASSIS i have built then tell a "pro" to go thru the entire chassis to clean it all up...
thats a lot of extra work that there is no need for...
with the spray the welds will pass NDI or pene. inspection no problem...
nothing against those who dont use it but it makes life a lot easier.....

[atutt]

Originally Posted by S@nt0s

pros not using spray????
ha if i posted the pic of the FULL CHASSIS i have built then tell a "pro" to go thru the entire chassis to clean it all up...
thats a lot of extra work that there is no need for...
with the spray the welds will pass NDI or pene. inspection no problem...
nothing against those who dont use it but it makes life a lot easier.....

It's extremely easy to pass a visual inspection. Especially if the inspection is done by someone who isn't an actual weld inspector.

Have all those welds X-rayed then tell me they all pass NDI or pene(???)

You can have tons of porosity without any visual clues up top.

I personally wouldn't to risk the chance of having my roll cage full of tiny little air bubbles.

That's just my opinion.

[Otto347]

I use the gel and spray on my nozzle. I dont like using it plus it smells like shit.

[S@nt0s]

Originally Posted by atutt

It's extremely easy to pass a visual inspection. Especially if the inspection is done by someone who isn't an actual weld inspector.

Have all those welds X-rayed then tell me they all pass NDI or pene(???)

You can have tons of porosity without any visual clues up top.

I personally wouldn't to risk the chance of having my roll cage full of tiny little air bubbles.

That's just my opinion.

i understand where you are coming from but i have personally passed inspections both fluorescent penetrant and NDI ( Non distructive inspection)
i got my certs as a Aeronautical welder so welds have to be perfect.
again it isnt required but mig welding with spray comes out a lot cleaner. and if the full chassis cars i built have passed the test of being dropped from a helicopter then by all means it can handle a roll-over.

[onepuff]

Been working on a forward facing upper intake plenum for my RB20DET ala Plazmaman. Fabbed a aluminum baseplate out of 3/8". Ports still need cleaned up a bit.






Been working on a mold to do a layup of CF over. I will wrap the CF around and underneath the mold to make a flange on the inside of the plenum.






Made a ring which will sandwich the CF plenum in between this and the baseplate. This will be bolted down from underneath the baseplate.





Here's a cross-section view of how it will be bolted together.



CF will be vacuum bagged for strength and light weight. The 'sandwich ring' will need to be cut into 2 or 4 pieces so I will be able to get it inside the plenum. The first layer of the layup will be fiberglass to prevent any galvanic reaction between the CF and the aluminum. Should be able to get started on the layup in the next couple of weeks. Already have the CF and other supplies. Just need to get a vacuum pump. Hope it turns out well. Should look something like this.

[Om1kron]

damn fancy...



I got my roof on, I start work on the core support and lil brother will be doing body work to the hood (grinding and seam sealer)

[roco]

well guys some progress on the buggy.

pretty much finished.




front turrets



weld shots














tube fitment,



and now the frame 95% complete.

[longfellow]

Why did you mount it so far in on the FLCA?

[roco]

Originally Posted by longfellow

Why did you mount it so far in on the FLCA?

do you mean the shock??? if so the i mounted it in there for more travel, and to match the spring weight. there not bought shocks, there out of a civic, so i had to make the best with what i was given.

[longfellow]

Yeah I ment the shocks. I was just wondering because its unusual to mount them so far in. It puts more stress on the shock itself thats why I was wondering. It makes sense that you are using a stock shock with a spring rate that is designed for a 2500lb car not a 700-1000lb buggy.

By the way the buggy looks really good!

I just thought of another question. Why didnt you just cut the front upright assembly and drill it out then make custom upper arms that are longer and have more adjustment for camber? Its pretty easily done and you have all the tools to make the arms. All you need is some rod-ends. Because they way it looks now the lower arms are going to follow a completly different arc then the stock upper arms and going to cause alot of problems once the suspension starts moving up and down.

[roco]

thats a good observation, and yes i could have made upper a arms, no bother, but the customer didnt exactly want to splash out on this project so once again i had to make do, and i put the top arm slightly off the the lower arm, so it gives camber and Castor on compression, hopefully helping the handleing. the upper arms have alot more move ment than youd think and i can get a good 9-10 inches of functional travel. if it was my buggy, there'd be top and bottom a arms on the front, proper off road shocks, and the same in the rear.

[longfellow]

I didnt know this was a low-budget customer build. I've been wanting to build something similar for about 3 years now. Your build is giving me more incentive to start working on my own project.

[roco]

because were using cheep as chips every day car parts, this buggy is roughly standing about 3k, and all he has to do is finish wiring and brake lines. and if you were doing the fab your self, then you could knock a good chunk off that.

in fairness its affordable fun.

[onehundredoctane]

I'm sure the springs and shocks are a lot stiffer than they need to be being that they are from a passenger car and now on a lite ass tube frame, should be good for getting some air and not bottoming out.

[ManoNegra]

Finished the Z32 spherical bearing project:

[Otto347]

Buggy looks good roco, should be a blast to drive!

[drftmark]

ManoNegra how much time total did you spend doing that? And did you get the spherical's from the GB?

[ManoNegra]

Originally Posted by drftmark

ManoNegra how much time total did you spend doing that? And did you get the spherical's from the GB?

Spent about a month working a few hours after work
a weekend here and there
waiting for material to come in or for machine time to open up

we (friend and myself = Skullworks) made the sleeves - arms and shock mount - for the GB Def started
the spherical bearings we got form QA1 (very nice I might add)

[roco]

~@ manonegra, fair play, thats some top notch work right there. should improve the handling alot.

[roco]

completely striped the frame back down and painted in black enamel

[roco]

and then re assembled,. This is as far as I go on
this project, the customer Wanted a full custom
rolling buggy frame, so now its FINNISHED

[GSXRJJordan]

Haha, that thing looks like a BLAST. I'm jealous - good work

[S14_Kouki]

So I guess I will post up my manifold I just built and DP. Quick overview on my build thread.



dont worry it was ported







Super awesome PS relocation bracket:



Everything done



And before anyone says it the runners are NOT paired. Enjoy

Fabthis.com

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ "Why didn't you use paired runners?" LOL I remember seeing this on the build thread. Mani/craftsmanship looks great.

Hopefully I'll get some sheetmetal laid in the trunk today, and get some more pics. Right now, it looks like this: