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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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11-07-2013, 05:36 PM | #15331 |
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Would anyone care to explain how stock quarter panels like these are so cleanly flared out by that much?? Do most people just go to a shop and have them do it? Or are these just overfenders that I'm clearly NOT seeing...? Really wanna do this to my car (otherwise I'd just go to overfenders :P)
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11-07-2013, 06:04 PM | #15332 | |
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11-07-2013, 06:37 PM | #15333 |
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A local guy is selling a set of Cusco strut bars. But they're for an S13 and I own an S14. I've gathered that the front will bolt on, no problem. I remember reading up on coilovers and it being mentioned that the rears are definitely not interchangeable between models. Does that include strut bars aka braces? I have been trying to read up on it but all the threads I find either don't specify about rears or it turns into members bickering over how to install a strut brace in an s14 in general.
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11-07-2013, 07:40 PM | #15335 |
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sorry to open this back up. I just need some clarification.
I plan on using the z32tt/q45 axles and q45 diff. My question is will that fit into the stock s14 knuckles(uprights)? or do i have to use the TT or q45 knuckles. I know without using the axles they are to short or long regardless. But again if I am using the axles and hubs will they fit into the stock s14 knuckles? No one ever mentioned this or asked this question. i searched. will q45 hubs/spindles fit in stick knuckles? wat about z32 tt hubs/spindles? |
11-07-2013, 07:47 PM | #15336 | |
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11-07-2013, 09:17 PM | #15337 | ||
Bandwagon.
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http://zilvia.net/f/archive-faqs/291...-calipers.html Quote:
MY question stock injectors on a s13 is purple right? i have one injector only thats gresyish hint of purple, which injector could that be? |
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11-07-2013, 09:35 PM | #15338 | |
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I know fender rolling won't do that. I've already rolled my fenders :P and have done a VERY tiny bit of DIY fender pulling/flaring. Check it out: Before: After: This tiny bit of flare definitely helped with rubbing issues, but I am fascinated by how sexy my car looks closer to the ground and want to go lower, so I was just curious what it took to get a deeper/bigger, if you will, flare/pull. I also don't mind paint damage, as my car is only primered :P |
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11-07-2013, 10:10 PM | #15339 |
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Thanks guys for the inputs with my little to no info lol
will get with the owner and unfuck ourselves |
11-08-2013, 01:02 AM | #15340 |
Bandwagon.
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i was going to do that, but i painted my car already and im not about that life anymore lol
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11-08-2013, 06:34 AM | #15342 |
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IF, before you paint, have the skills with torch, hammer, dolly, and sand block, one can accomplish this without overfenders. I watched a guy do this to my Pop's '67 XKE E Type so he could run 9" Corvette wheels on it. I have seen it also done on nickel-dime's and 2002's as well.
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11-08-2013, 08:37 AM | #15344 | |
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this is 245-35-18 you get the idea..
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11-08-2013, 10:43 AM | #15346 | |
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11-08-2013, 11:04 AM | #15347 |
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Q: when doing a under dash wire tuck is it alot easier pulling out all the wiring and doing it out of the car or is it better to do it inside the car? Q2: do i have to use a new fuse box from (ie autozone) or can i use existing fuseboxes?
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11-08-2013, 01:58 PM | #15349 | ||
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...its definitely easier to do it all out of the car. Staying organized and thorough is pretty much all its about, and its just easier to do that when you have more room to do so. Space is tight under the dash once its all crammed in there. So you might need to pull it in and out a couple times. Quote:
if it doesnt work, itd be damn close, could always trim a little and play with different couplers at that point
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11-08-2013, 07:34 PM | #15350 |
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so i have a question.
i replaced my old s14 subframe bushings with new PBM bushings. i keep hearing a creaking noise from the passenger side. but i dont know what it is? has anyone else experienced this? its not a clunk but a creak going up and down drive ways or even when i push the car down from the back i can hear it. any insight would be appreciated thanks!
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11-09-2013, 11:10 AM | #15352 |
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[QUOTE=conrad_s13.5;5469947]like,. placing the engine bay harness under the dash?
...its definitely easier to do it all out of the car. Staying organized and thorough is pretty much all its about, and its just easier to do that when you have more room to do so. Space is tight under the dash once its all crammed in there. So you might need to pull it in and out a couple times. Thanks for the reply. But i meant only the harness under the dash allthe wiring for the enginebay has been tucked. Since im not running a/c nor heater i just have a huge annoing ball of wiring under the dash that looks horrible and i just wantes to trim that but dont know what would be easier, if to do it in there or just pull it all out. Oh and all my fuse boxes from the engine bay are already under the the dash also |
11-10-2013, 07:28 AM | #15353 |
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Spacer Question, not quite generic, but definitely for a zenki:
OE SE wheels are 6.5 x 16 +40 and fit tucked in by maybe 20mm or so(Don't have a car to get exact stock measurement, it gets painted next week) I have a set of knock off Gram Lights G-Games made by ICW(they came with my parts car, still have back half that has had the front half cut surgically removed) in 7 x 7.5 +42 How much spacer rear, and front, will I need to push these out to the fender lip, not quite flush, but to fill so I only may need a bit of roll at the top of the inner lip? My newb math is telling me go 20mm rear, 15mm front, but I am looking to experience before I buy once so I don't buy twice and cry
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11-10-2013, 05:29 PM | #15354 |
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Where do we post for appraisal? Wanna sell my S13, got huge list of parts that are on. Tons of pics. But I kinda have no clue what to ask for it.
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11-10-2013, 05:52 PM | #15355 |
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Don't know if this question has risen yet but oh well
i just got an hks ssqv and had it welded and put it on and hooked everything up and its not blowing off, i even have the screw all the way out. there is vacuum going to it as i can feel it from the hose when i unplug it its teed off from my fpr (just for clarification) the diaphram seems fine i can push it in without an issue. but it just doesntwant to blow off. im just getting comp surge even at full boost(stock) could it just be dead? anyone else have this issue? any tips or help? |
11-10-2013, 09:37 PM | #15356 | |
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11-10-2013, 10:13 PM | #15357 |
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its an sr20 and if there is something teed off from fpr it will compensate by putting in a little more fuel. where as a tee off from an actuator line might cause over boosting which in my opinion is worse than running a little rich.
i would use another source from my intake mani and run my actuator off my hot pipe but i dont have a nipple for that so im running it like this for the time being |
11-10-2013, 10:14 PM | #15358 | |
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11-10-2013, 10:22 PM | #15359 |
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i can see last i check its a boost line only i think im not completely sure. regardless though the placement doesnt matter as long as my bov has a vacuum/boost source which it does and its still not blowing off.
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11-11-2013, 08:50 AM | #15360 | ||||
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Very odd that's not working at all. Try another boost source? Quote:
Odd that a subframe bushing would do that, however just nut/bolt and go over all the parts you may have taken off. Could be a strut/coilover too.
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