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Old 07-07-2017, 12:38 AM   #21181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idea View Post
Okay sweet! Yeah I don't think I had a factory boost solenoid, as it was sitting at like 6 or 7 psi lol. So does that mean I could technically go up to 12psi with no issues? Or is that not recommended?
eh, you should be alright... but keep in mind if you havent replaced your fuel pump with a walbro unit, youre running on a 23+ year old pump most likely. spend $100 and buy a walbro, might also wanna buy an adjustable FPR like Tomei or Aeromotive with a gauge (cant stress the gauge enough).
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:38 AM   #21182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conrad_s13.5 View Post
Find a local welder and throw him like 20bucks to cut it off and weld it shut and never worry about it again.
Might actually get them to weld that pipe on the intake side for a recirculation hookup.

Its actually crazy how few companies actually sell intakes with integrated recirculation pipe.
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:00 PM   #21183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13 View Post
eh, you should be alright... but keep in mind if you havent replaced your fuel pump with a walbro unit, youre running on a 23+ year old pump most likely. spend $100 and buy a walbro, might also wanna buy an adjustable FPR like Tomei or Aeromotive with a gauge (cant stress the gauge enough).
Alright. I'll keep it at 10 psi until I get some more supporting mods. Already ordered the fuel pump. Thanks!
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:50 PM   #21184
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Again with the studs question, so the 10mm spacers I bought (eibach) has studs with 14.9mm knurl diameter, and S14 front is 14.3mm, right? It should fit great?
I'd like a confirmation before I shove them forcefully and can't return them anymore.

Any experience with eibach studs? Are they strong?
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Old 07-07-2017, 04:37 PM   #21185
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Two dumb questions:

Are LHD and RHD clutch pedals the same?

Do extended control arms with stock knuckles and tie roads even work?
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Old 07-07-2017, 06:00 PM   #21186
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Quote:
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Are LHD and RHD clutch pedals the same?
pedal MAYBE, bracket assembly NO
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Old 07-08-2017, 03:43 AM   #21187
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Old 07-08-2017, 07:42 AM   #21188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diego9777 View Post
I got an s14 ka24de..

Got an egr code, deleted the egr system, but I still have code p1400 which is the egrc solenoid valve.

Since I deleted the egr, the egrc solenoid valve shouldn't affect my car mechanically in any way correct? I can just ignore the cel? My car runs fine, idles fine, it's just the code that's popping up. I appreciate any help.

It'll be fine. You'll always have the code



Quote:
Originally Posted by idea View Post
So I've tried googling this, but only came up with pictures and no real answer. I'm looking to get some new wheels for my S13 coupe, and would 18x9.5 +15f, and 19x10.5 +15r fit on a stock body?? Fenders are rolled, with the rears being slightly pulled. Car is sitting on Blitz coilovers if that makes any difference.
That won't fit at all without overfenders.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JrDarknes View Post
Dosent say, they're two Isis 12" fans. I'm just going to add a 30amp and see what happens. Im assuming 20 was too low.
Or you can potentially melt the wires.

You need to really verify what amp draw the fans have and then make sure the controller can run them.

As in, if you have two fans which draw 40 amps each, you can't expect a single 30amp fuse to control both after the relay




Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
Again with the studs question, so the 10mm spacers I bought (eibach) has studs with 14.9mm knurl diameter, and S14 front is 14.3mm, right? It should fit great?
I'd like a confirmation before I shove them forcefully and can't return them anymore.

Any experience with eibach studs? Are they strong?

Are the spacers bolt on or slip on

Google S13 and S14 Knurl size, if I can do this you can do it too.

14.9 will not be happy in a 14.3 knurl hole. It *may* press through but may require a slight drill out to accept the 14.9 studs



Quote:
Originally Posted by Reece View Post
Two dumb questions:

Are LHD and RHD clutch pedals the same?

Do extended control arms with stock knuckles and tie roads even work?
Clutch pedals not the same.

You'll need longer inners
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Old 07-08-2017, 10:23 AM   #21189
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quick question, have any of you guys here have any experience with the Villains Dual Rear Caliper set up? Any insight would help. From my research it uses a VW caliper, I mean a caliper is a caliper the damn thing clamps but what gets me is the caliper is meant for a 70's era car kinda on the ropes with that idea you know. thanks in advance

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Old 07-08-2017, 11:10 AM   #21190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Are the spacers bolt on or slip on

Google S13 and S14 Knurl size, if I can do this you can do it too.

14.9 will not be happy in a 14.3 knurl hole. It *may* press through but may require a slight drill out to accept the 14.9 studs
Slip on, they are meant for a 350Z but Eibach site says that the studs are 14.9 knurl on every Nissan and Mazda they provide.
I can't get a sensible answer since every site seems to say different things, all I know is that S14 front should be 14.3, but so seems the 350Z be also.

So I'll rephrase my question: Are wheel studs the same for 350Z and S14 front? Will they fit on each other?

Thanks
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Old 07-08-2017, 01:41 PM   #21191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reece View Post
Do extended control arms with stock knuckles and tie roads even work?
Not sure what you mean by that, but the stock tie rods will not reach the knuckles after extending the LCA. Other than that it will "work".
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Old 07-09-2017, 01:17 AM   #21192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
That won't fit at all without overfenders.
Really? Because when I asked the wheel fitment thread, two people said that it'll fit no problem, and that it's "standard" S13 fitment?
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:36 PM   #21193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
Slip on, they are meant for a 350Z but Eibach site says that the studs are 14.9 knurl on every Nissan and Mazda they provide.
I can't get a sensible answer since every site seems to say different things, all I know is that S14 front should be 14.3, but so seems the 350Z be also.

So I'll rephrase my question: Are wheel studs the same for 350Z and S14 front? Will they fit on each other?

Thanks
Yes, the fronts are the same. 14.35 mm knurl on S14 front as well as 350Z/G35 front and rear. Rear S14 is 12.83 mm knurl.

14.9 may be a tight fit. Maybe look into spacers from b2autodesigns.
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Old 07-10-2017, 03:03 AM   #21194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Yes, the fronts are the same. 14.35 mm knurl on S14 front as well as 350Z/G35 front and rear. Rear S14 is 12.83 mm knurl.

14.9 may be a tight fit. Maybe look into spacers from b2autodesigns.
Brilliant thank you!
I already ordered them but haven't arrived yet, the site I ordered said that they are for 350Z (they don't have S14 but I figured it's the same), it has a note "S16" which is
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eibach
Mazda / Nissan / Subaru have various wheel studs that are dependant on the model, axle or year they were built in. Before
ordering, please check on both axles, what knurl diameter the original wheel studs have. In our kits, we include wheel studs with
a knurl diameter of 14,9mm (14,3mm for Subaru). Other knurl diameter sizes need to be indicated when ordering!
If they are meant to fit 350Z they should fit S14 aswell

EDIT: in case anyone else is wondering the same question, yes the knurl size is the same on S14 front as 350Z, mine fit greatly

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Old 07-10-2017, 07:57 AM   #21195
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Okay another question about the exhaust on S14a

So I have two o2 sensors, first in turbo elbow and another in catalytic converter, I bought a straight pipe and it has no boss to fit the o2, my question is that if I unplug the second o2 and tuck it somewhere in the chassis will I get any other issues than CEL?

I can live with the CEL for a while since Im gonna get my car tuned and remove the o2 sensor completely but can I drive the car for about a month without any issues? It shouldnt affect fueling etc since the first o2 does that, right?
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Old 07-10-2017, 01:41 PM   #21196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
Okay another question about the exhaust on S14a

So I have two o2 sensors, first in turbo elbow and another in catalytic converter, I bought a straight pipe and it has no boss to fit the o2, my question is that if I unplug the second o2 and tuck it somewhere in the chassis will I get any other issues than CEL?

I can live with the CEL for a while since Im gonna get my car tuned and remove the o2 sensor completely but can I drive the car for about a month without any issues? It shouldnt affect fueling etc since the first o2 does that, right?
It will be fine to tuck it somewhere. The second O2 is only there to measure the catalyst for emissions. A better option would be to buy or build an "O2 simulator" and tuck it in the dash somewhere. So you will have a "clear" ecu if you live in an area that does OBD2 emissions testing.
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:55 AM   #21197
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So. Not sure what I did here. I was finishing my 5-lug swap on my 95 S14 the other day. Everything was going well until I went to break and remove the axle-nut from the drivers-side rear. I thought locking the E-brake and having it in gear would be enough to allow me to break it loose. I put on my 36mm socket with a breaker bar and went to loosen it and it didn't break loose, but spun back a half turn. Did i screw anything up? I ended up using another breaker bar to brace between the studs and removed the nut. I guess I'm just worried i fucked something up. Finishing my new brakes this week and it'll be ready to be back on the streets (HOPEFULLY lol).
Thanks.


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Old 07-11-2017, 11:44 AM   #21198
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Use your jack handle and insert it over your breaker bar to give it more leverage then it should break. If not, spray some PB blaster or WD40 for on the axle nut and try again. Otherwise, have a friend or family member hold the brakes (while the car is on and in neutral).
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:55 PM   #21199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachManners View Post
I put on my 36mm socket with a breaker bar and went to loosen it and it didn't break loose, but spun back a half turn. Did i screw anything up?
Sound like you spun the drive train by hand..🤣... its fine. At least you got it, I will never try another axle nut w/o an inpact for as log as I live. Impact FTW


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Old 07-11-2017, 02:39 PM   #21200
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Sound like you spun the drive train by hand..🤣... its fine. At least you got it, I will never try another axle nut w/o an inpact for as log as I live. Impact FTW


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Haha I was scared as hell lol. I was thinking I stripped out my diff or an axle lol. Or turned it out of timing. Everything should be fine though??


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Old 07-11-2017, 05:33 PM   #21201
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:35 PM   #21202
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Everything should be fine though??

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I'd say so.

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Old 07-14-2017, 09:28 PM   #21203
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Does anyone know if C33 Mirrors fit onto the s13? Many thanks in advance!
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:13 PM   #21204
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Driveshaft question

1jz vvti in an s13

Does this go in far enough?







Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:17 PM   #21205
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Negative ghostrider. Drive shaft looks a few inches short.
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:36 PM   #21206
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Hell no. I've had an abs driveshaft in my non abs s13 and I constantly blow tail seals, your shortage looks dangerous

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Old 07-17-2017, 08:04 PM   #21207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchmeat View Post
Negative ghostrider. Drive shaft looks a few inches short.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
Hell no. I've had an abs driveshaft in my non abs s13 and I constantly blow tail seals, your shortage looks dangerous

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Thought so, thanks y'all
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:19 PM   #21208
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Super small and easy question, going to go through wiring fsm tomorrow but buddy picked up a neo head swap sr20 built motor in a zenki for a good price today. Car runs crazy rich, everything checks out as far as no codes, tps is good voltage, high timing around 25 degrees on cold idle and is running in the 10s all the time.

NOW the issue I saw in datascan/nistune is its reading 9.9 volts key on the on position. Battery directly is reading 12v and when you start the car the voltage for the software is saying the car is at 11.9 which is way to low. On my ka-t hatch its 13.9 and low 14s.

Im sure this is a big issue but has anyone had anything similar? Going to look through the charging diagram and find a pinout for sr20 ecu so I can trace the power wires to the body harness and go from there. Is there anything I can check first before anything else? Never seen an issue before with having 12v battery but a drain on the ecu ?
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Old 07-18-2017, 10:18 AM   #21209
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Could be grounds need to be cleaned up. Or the wiring is getting old and causing a lot of resistance, which would cause the voltage drop.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:17 AM   #21210
XMcEvilson
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when my lights are off, the turn signals work fine. when my lights are on, the front right doesn't blink. anyone else had this issue? s13 hatch
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