Xiaphin's Bye Bye NICO Hello Zilvia - S13 SR Forced Performance Big 28 DD Build

[sm0611]

Everything is looking good man. Im going to have to agree with you on painting the grey stuff a little darker. I just did the same thing and moved here from nico. Tons better haha

[xiaphin]

Originally Posted by tommytwo40hands

why brown???

Brown = Because Rednecks Own Wicked Nissans

But seriously what WakeBHR said. Something different and browns my favorite color. And that white is actually grey just way too light. Just picked up some darker greys a minute ago. Post pics later. Gotta work.

[xiaphin]

Repainted all accents with a dark pewter. Has a slight browinsh tint and looks thousand times better than the smoked gray in previous pics. Wired up my amp (cant believe that tiny thing is 1200w 4 channel), with help from a kicker 4 gauge Z series installation kit (already ran my speaker wires so if anybody wants the wire LMK they are 16GA silver tinned copper), installed head unit, picked up an Odyssey PC925-A battery, cleaned up all my switches since they had overspray on them from previous owners 10 ft. paint job, flipped injectors, made and installed AN fuel lines. Have to mount my PS resovior beside the clutch slave. NO room with the Apexi intake. Anyone else using this kit? Its for a Z32 MAF if that makes a difference. Time to enjoy the good beer seasin and drink some BCS - for those who dont know Brooklyn - Black Chocolate Stout

[T-FAST]

Nice build! I would have opted for an even darker shade of grey, but that is better than the other grey. Keep up the good work

[Quicksilver_s13]

very thorough on the underside of the car. your labors turned out nicely. i'll be looking to this page for reference when i do my aluminum subframe spacers. the brown is throwing me a big ? but props for sticking with it. at least you match everything to it so it's clean.

[benarovi]

tight work looks real good no halfassed shit. but why u got the back seats with a roll cage?? thats really dangerous for ppl in the back seats

[xiaphin]

Finished the dash gauge and vent mount, installed it. Drilled four holes in back of mounting plate, epoxied 10-24 threaded rod on backside, fastened to dash with two aluminum strips and wingnuts. Upload pics is anyones interested. Mounted PS resovoir by clutch slave using one hole for that green thin and tapped the other. Going to mount my Wideband and 2 other 60mm defi gauges below my cd player.

[Datenshi]

You should have put the gauges further into the dash. They stick out way too much in my opinion. They definitely look like they could fit flush with the dash.

[gonshik007]

And I was just wondering why didn't you paint the diff the whole under carriage is so beautiful but than there is the unpainted diff? And I second the Gauges.

[xiaphin]

Gauge mount is my first attempt. They stick out farther than I would like but will have to do for now. The diff was prepped to be painted but got carried away and installed it. Realized after it was in, oh well.

[gonshik007]

Originally Posted by xiaphin

Gauge mount is my first attempt. They stick out farther than I would like but will have to do for now. The diff was prepped to be painted but got carried away and installed it. Realized after it was in, oh well.

Tape off the area around it and give it a coat cant be that hard Will look tones better

[xiaphin]

Originally Posted by gonshik007

Tape off the area around it and give it a coat cant be that hard Will look tones better

Will do that when the underside of my hood gets painted. Pic of mounting hardware for vent gauges and a test fit on broken dash trim. Two 60mm Defi gauges will be on the right side. Final piece to be finished early tomorrow. Anybody make a corner dash gauge mount for LHD cars? Only find one for a WRX LHD and S-Chassis RHD cars.

[xiaphin]

Defi daisy chain power wires were too short to finish center console over weekend. Should have longer ones today. Modified heater core vent to flow air only to the 350z vent. Used some plastic and cut a 3" flex pipe that I found in the roofing section of Lowes. Safety wired, siliconed, and glued together. Also was able to start and finish mounting all my controllers into the glovebox. Constructed out of 3/4 wood wrapped in gray suede to match headliner, door inserts, and glovebox. Held in place by 1/2 x 1/8 thick aluminum and Velcro. Pic dump.

[xiaphin]

Got other two gauges mounted. Tested sound system. Off to see Cake, maybe they'll play Stickshifts and Safety belts. One can only hope.

[xiaphin]

Defi link and gauges up and running. Turbo timer installed. DIF fan controller and boost controller almost complete. All wires soldered and labeled. Installing LM-1 wideband tommorow and wiring it to dataloggit box as well. Connected PowerFC dataloggit to computer and downloaded enthalpy's ign timing map. Read that these values are far superior to the map provided on the FC from Apexi. Going to use scotties tune taken from freshalloy as a starting point. Hoping to fire it up in a week or two.

[xiaphin]

Not much work done on car last month or so. Been to damn cold outside. Went to torque crank bolt but no go. Car in gear (4th) and friend applying brakes. Engine just spins freely. Bled clutch and breaks with suction or pressure bleeder. Press clutch, slave cylinder rod moves. Gonna roll my fenders, adjust the E-brake and put car on the ground. Hope this will do the trick.

[Riq]

Great job so far, I hear ya on the lack of feedback on Nico, I'm bringing my build over here for the same reason.

[Pure_JDM]

Props on the glove box work...

[BLKTOPSR20DET]

looks f ing awsome!

[xiaphin]

Put ass end of car on ground, in 3rd and foot on brake and was able to torque the crank bolt. Never had to put car on ground to do that before WTF. Reminds me of bleeding the breaks on my buddys S2000. Car had to be running in order for them to be bled WTF. Swapped all IC piping worm gear clamps out for T-Bolt clamps. Couple more things to do before I hopefully start it this weekend.

BLKTOPSR20DET & Pure_JDM: Thanks for the comments

What size are the bolts for the seatbelts in the A-pillar? Not having any luck finding the right size.

Edit: Bolts are standard 7/16-20.

[xiaphin]

Auto to manual conversion with the park/neutral switch jumpered.

Getting fuel just no spark.

Thought ignitor chip (Z32) was bad but tried my extra one and even robbed one off my Z that I know is good. Still no spark.

So I checked voltage, and ground on all 4 coilpack harnesses and it checks out. Also continuity from coilpack harness ground and ignitor chip.

TPS, CAS, Ignitor chip, MAF, fuses and relays all good.

Took CAS out and spun by hand and could hear EGI Relay click, all 4 injectors click, and hear ignitor clicking / buzzing but no spark. Had a coil pack out of valvecover with spark plug connected.

If I try to start car and have voltmeter probe in far right coilpack harness connector (signal wire) I'm not seeing any voltage or fluctuation in voltage. Doesnt the CAS send a signal in voltage to the coilpacks telling them to fire?

Havent checked with a spare coilpack. Hoping to find one I can borrow locally. Dont see how all four coilpacks would be bad though.

Anything I'm overlooking here other than checking a coilpack I know is good?

[Nategreat923]

I like the UPS brown, because I work there :P Shoulda topped it off with yellow accents hahaha. Keep it up!

[xiaphin]

Have a working CAS and 4 matching coil packs otw. Hoping it fixes my problem. Nardi Kallista on its way from aspec as well Did get one engine up and running this weekend though. 1 out of 2 aint bad.

[xiaphin]

Turned out to be a bad CAS. Now spark is good. Car starts but then dies. Time to figure out whats causing this. Disconnected MAF, no difference. Disconnected TPS, no difference. Messed with IACV idle screw, just chasing my tail here. Bumped fuel pressure up. Have like 80 psi when pump primes and then drops to zero if i wait long enough. Should my fuel pressure hold at a certain pressure if the car isnt running/idling? I think it shouldn't. Gonna look at my vaccum routing tomorrow.

[S14DB]

Should go up to 43.5psi and then hold it there to you start it. After you turn off the car is should stay at above 40 for at least an hour.

[Silvia716]

I got to say shit looks fresh as hell, i just want to know what you used to paint your interior cuz i did mine with the shit from advanced dont think it came out as good as yours

[Om1kron]

saw brown interior, seen all i needed to see. good luck with this.

[xiaphin]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Should go up to 43.5psi and then hold it there to you start it. After you turn off the car is should stay at above 40 for at least an hour.

I knew that 43.5 was the magic number just unsure if the value needed to be higher when pump primed or not. Time to look at my fuel pump wiring. Have deatschwerks hardwire kit.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

saw brown interior, seen all i needed to see. good luck with this.

Dont diss it yet. At least wait until my interior is complete. Cage, seats and wheel to be installed by next weekend.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by xiaphin

I knew that 43.5 was the magic number just unsure if the value needed to be higher when pump primed or not. Time to look at my fuel pump wiring. Have deatschwerks hardwire kit.

I would say it's your FPR or how you have it hosed in the bay. It works off vac/pressure so, it's going stay at 43.5 till the engine starts.

[xiaphin]

Using a SARD FPR AN type. No pics of routing on my photobucket. Do remember using all three nipples on the throttle body. Believe I ran them like this: One to BOV, other to boost gauge , last one to FPR and think it gets teed off for boost controller solenoid and boost controller. Don't quote me on this. Post pic of setup after work.