Suspected IACV

[NickS14]

Current issues are that car starts up and idles fine on a cold start, once warm and I come to stops car dies. Once the engine is at temp and idling, any blip of the throttle causes the RPMs to drop once let off throttle and car dies. When the car dies at temp, needs about 50% throttle to fire up again, won't turn over without depressing throttle. I suspect dirty IACV, just looking for confirmation or if you guys think it may be something else.

[Ilya]

If you cant start the car without fully depressing the pedal, might be a leaky injector. Read here: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=558989

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by Ilya

If you cant start the car without fully depressing the pedal, might be a leaky injector. Read here: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=558989

I can start the car cold without touching the pedal, and then at temp pedal still doesn't have to be "fully depressed"

[jr_ss]

What is it going to hurt to clean it? Maintenance sounds like a good idea to me.

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

What is it going to hurt to clean it? Maintenance sounds like a good idea to me.

Bc it's not the easiest, nor is it the most fun to remove and clean...

[NickS14]

Was given a suggestion to block off IACV. Anyone know of issues or reasons not to?

[jr_ss]

Except the fact that you'd have no idle control what so ever, nope no other reason. That includes idle up for A/C or any other draw on the motor that the IACV automatically compensates for when the car is running. Quit finding/looking excuses to not clean it. If you're going to go as far as removing it, what does it hurt to clean it and retry it. Id rather have a functioning idle control, than cracking the throttle plate screw wider to get the car to idle. It's not a race car is it?

[NickS14]

I was going to cap the IC piping port and tube running to the IACV. Not looking for reasons not to, but Its a birch to remove so trying to avoid that. Looks like Im not going to be able to

[Ilya]

its not a birch to remove it. Its not even difficult. Took me all 5 minutes in mechanics gloves with a standard set of tools.

Quit relying your knowledge on the internet and go out and fix your damn car. The internet wont magically solve your issues. We will guide you but we cant do the work for you.

You are coming up with excuses to not do the troubleshooting work we are recommending you do then WTF are you doing on this site even asking? I can feed you some BS right now telling you "hey I had the exact same thing happen to me, I had to hold the pedal down a little bit to get the car started. Turned out I had to get my crank shaft replaced because it would expand when the engine was at vacuum. The air entering through the throttle plate oxidized the metal allowing the engine to turn over"

Now if you say "thats bs" to what I said above you have car knowledge, but if you say "thats bs" and come up with lame excuses why it cant be the IACV, when we tell you to take it off and clean it, then you demonstrate negative knowledge, making us believe we can tell you whatever BS we want.

Check the switch on the muffler pedal for the valve. Since the reservoir for the Ohmic Relay Fluid is right above that switch, any leak of that fluid can ruin the switch and cause your cold start/warm no start condition.

[zfortune]

Yes go and clean the IACV. I did it and it worked like a dream. Mine was clogged with all kinds of crap and for some reason had a very small piece of metal in it. Don't ask me how but it was there. But anyways it's very simple to do.

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by Ilya

Check the switch on the muffler pedal for the valve. Since the reservoir for the Ohmic Relay Fluid is right above that switch, any leak of that fluid can ruin the switch and cause your cold start/warm no start condition.

Checked the switch, relay fluid was leaking, replaced the switch and runs and starts great now, thanks for the suggestion. Highly valuable input.

[kruked]

Check the flux compasitor?

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by kruked

Check the flux compasitor?

Yeah I was getting a reading around 47-49 which is right in the normal range. Checked out to be fine. Thanks tho. Good thinking

[NickS14]

Ok, so removed the IACV, easier than I remember. However when I was taking the IACV apart for cleaning I removed the two phillips screws on the one sensor. However, when I removed the aac valve, everything fell out, due to my clumsiness, and Im not sure where the little spring in the picture goes... I think it goes on the tip of the
(piston) bullet looking thing, and I know the smaller end of that bullet goes into the IACV, spring goes on the tip of the
'bullet" and into the AAC valve?

Can someone help me put back together the IACV? Thanks.

[NickS14]

Looked into the FSM and it doesn't show an exploded view...

[Moonride]

Hi Nick, spring goes on the narrow end. So the wider (bullet thingy) end goes into the solenoid. . There should be like a circular indentation on the narrow end about the same diameter as the spring. You should be able to see the spring in that square opening in the IACV if you put it back properly. I was actually having similar problem(s) as you but what I did was just take out the idle adjust screw and sprayed about half a bottle of intake cleaner in there while the car was running. Have to rev it while your spray several times too keep the car from dying. Took about 15 minutes. Hope this helps (hehehe... had to edit a few, sorry).

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by Moonride

Hi Nick, spring goes on the narrow end. So the wider (bullet thingy) end goes into the solenoid. . There should be circular form on the narrow end about the same diameter as the spring. You should be able to see the spring in that square opening in the IACV if you put it back properly. I was actually having similar problem(s) as you but what I did was just take out the idle adjust screw and sprayed about half a bottle of intake cleaner in there lol. Took about 15 minutes.

So the spring slides into the cylinder end and then into the IACV and the bullet goes into the AAC valve? Are you certain? I don't remember seeing the spring until I unscrewed the two Phillips screws the held on the AAC valve. I thought the spring goes onto the tip of the bullet, there's a groove that's exactly the same circumference as the spring, and then spring first and then bullet into the solenoid/AAC valve - I'm not saying you're wrong I just don't ever remember seeing that little spring when I originally took out the IACV. IIRC there are two versions of the IACV made.

[Moonride]

Is yours SOHC?

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by Moonride

Is yours SOHC?

No, its a DOHC

[NickS14]

So, you are suggesting I reinstall in this order?

That would make it look like this, with everything installed according to you?

To me, that just doesn't look right... and I may be answering my own questions, really just wanted some clarification, however, this is the order I believe it should be reinstalled...

[Moonride]

Hmmm sorry, thought the ones with square opening in the IACV was only for SOHC @_@.

[Moonride]

Did find this link though, i hope it helps. http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/s1...ed-solved.html

The poster said something about the one on the left having its own housing.

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by Moonride

Did find this link though, i hope it helps. http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/s1...ed-solved.html

The poster said something about the one on the left having its own housing.

Yeah, those both are different from the IACV that I have and those seem to both be SOHC, and Im DOHC, thanks for the help tho!

[Moonride]

Yeah the bottom pic looks like it and you said there's a groove the same size as the spring. That makes more sense.

[Moonride]

Oh, don't forget to get a new gasket before you put it back sir!

[NickS14]

Originally Posted by Moonride

Oh, don't forget to get a new gasket before you put it back sir!

Yup already got one of those, didn't take it out until I got the new one !! Thanks!!