Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Whats the best way to go about purchasing/obtaining carpet for my S14?

I bought a black one from an S15

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Anyone know what I should be concerned about when buying a ka24de that's been sitting in a garage for 3 years?

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When any engine sits for three years, fluids, as in oil, all goes to the lowest point it can. The engine bearings become a risky proposition to long term reliability. Upon start up, even letting the oil flow through is not enough to insure this will not come back to bit you in the ass.
Buy the engine, put it on a stand, flip it over, and replace the crank bearings and rod bearings. Cover everything you can with assembly lube. Open the valve cover and do the same, making sure the lube is on everything. Then rotate it and make sure it is well lubed before start up. OR, you can have it sit for a year in a paint shop like mine, then run it for maybe 500 miles before you have issues

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

When any engine sits for three years, fluids, as in oil, all goes to the lowest point it can. The engine bearings become a risky proposition to long term reliability. Upon start up, even letting the oil flow through is not enough to insure this will not come back to bit you in the ass.
Buy the engine, put it on a stand, flip it over, and replace the crank bearings and rod bearings. Cover everything you can with assembly lube. Open the valve cover and do the same, making sure the lube is on everything. Then rotate it and make sure it is well lubed before start up. OR, you can have it sit for a year in a paint shop like mine, then run it for maybe 500 miles before you have issues

Then engine is still in a running car, just the car sat non op for 3 years in a garage. It started up just fine and ran great, just I want to be cautious. Lord knows I can't afford a rod knock or such.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Then engine is still in a running car, just the car sat non op for 3 years in a garage. It started up just fine and ran great, just I want to be cautious. Lord knows I can't afford a rod knock or such.

Three years non op. Do yourself a huge favor. Run Seafoam through the oil, then run heavier oil, like a 60 weight Redline. This will get good oil into all the dry bearing better. After 100 miles of seafoam and 60 weight, change it out for the normal 20-50 or 30 whatever you want to run. This will help, but my bet is after sitting three years, here is what is going on internally
Bearings have dried out, these are cast iron areas with steel, corrosion, which may be scuffed out upon start up is still there. It will run fine, but those bearing surfaces will sooner than later go south and you will hear a deeper bearing squeal coming from either rod or crank bearings. Just thoughts on long term issues with the iron blocks that I have seen over time, and found upon opening up to rebuild

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Three years non op. Do yourself a huge favor. Run Seafoam through the oil, then run heavier oil, like a 60 weight Redline. This will get good oil into all the dry bearing better. After 100 miles of seafoam and 60 weight, change it out for the normal 20-50 or 30 whatever you want to run. This will help, but my bet is after sitting three years, here is what is going on internally
Bearings have dried out, these are cast iron areas with steel, corrosion, which may be scuffed out upon start up is still there. It will run fine, but those bearing surfaces will sooner than later go south and you will hear a deeper bearing squeal coming from either rod or crank bearings. Just thoughts on long term issues with the iron blocks that I have seen over time, and found upon opening up to rebuild

Yep can't risk this engine exploding I'm gonna pass on the car lol thanks for the info man!

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[ZenkiKid]

S13 related:


What other cars use the same side mirror glass? I ran maxima ones for the blue tint but one of them fell off. If I can't find another one in the junkyard (or another s13) is there another 80/90s Nissan that has the same glass? Like an Altima or a Sentra or something?

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by ZenkiKid

S13 related:


What other cars use the same side mirror glass? I ran maxima ones for the blue tint but one of them fell off. If I can't find another one in the junkyard (or another s13) is there another 80/90s Nissan that has the same glass? Like an Altima or a Sentra or something?

Check oreilly or auto zone and compare part numbers. Also a side mirror glass cant be that expensive not to try and buy online

[derass]

I've seen new, aftermarket side mirror lenses on eBay.

[Fernandoo14]

Hey guys, i just bought a 1997 kouki. I am trying to learn more about cars thus my reason for buying it. My car threw 9 codes. it was originally a auto and it was converted to manual. The guy i bought it from did a shitty job with the wiring and said the car still has the auto ECU. i was wondering if these would be the reason most of these codes are thrown. most of the codes are emissions based. If anyone could help me out it would be greatly appreciated.

codes:
P0505 idle control system malfunction
P1441 Manufacturer control auxiliary emissions controls
P1605 Manufacturer control auxiliary inputs auxiliary outputs
P0135 02 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1 )
P0141 02 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2 )
P0446 Evap emissions control system vent circuit malf
P1400 Manufacturer control auxiliary emissions controls
P1105 Manufacturer control fuel air metering

[rawgarage]

Get a manual ECU and delete emissions since you're in Vegas

[91stockcoupe]

So my drivers side rear wheel clanks a lot when I hit a bump and I accelerate. It's pretty rough, the more gas I give it the harder it does it but if I keep on the gas it'll go away at higher rpms. Wheel also has a lot of in and out play when I push on it when it's jacked up. I already replaced the wheel bearing so I'm not sure what it could be, maybe the axle? Car is a 91 s13.

[aymaeid]

I desperately need a rear hub and bearing on my s14 SE. question, since it has ABS, there seem to be hubs online with small wiring harness attached. is this the case? will my SE with ABS require a specific hub/bearing assembly or can i simply use any of that year. any help would be greatly appreciated.

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by aymaeid

I desperately need a rear hub and bearing on my s14 SE. question, since it has ABS, there seem to be hubs online with small wiring harness attached. is this the case? will my SE with ABS require a specific hub/bearing assembly or can i simply use any of that year. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Nope. Rears are the same between Abs and non ABS. Online image is probably just generic.

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[aymaeid]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Nope. Rears are the same between Abs and non ABS. Online image is probably just generic.

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thank you kind sir

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by aymaeid

I desperately need a rear hub and bearing on my s14 SE. question, since it has ABS, there seem to be hubs online with small wiring harness attached. is this the case? will my SE with ABS require a specific hub/bearing assembly or can i simply use any of that year. any help would be greatly appreciated.

The standard 1995/96 is four lug and the SE is five lug IIRC

[DailySX]

My passenger side view mirror just fell off and needs new adhesive to be reattached. Has this happened to anybody and what adhesive did you guys used? I already cleaned off the old putty/poster-tack whatever adhesive that was on there.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by DailySX

My passenger side view mirror just fell off and needs new adhesive to be reattached. Has this happened to anybody and what adhesive did you guys used? I already cleaned off the old putty/poster-tack whatever adhesive that was on there.

3M double sided tape (the dark grey kind, just dont touch it with your fingers or youll ruin it).... or LOTS of super glue

[DailySX]

Thanks! just bought some of the 3M exterior attachment tape. Hopefully that's the right one and will last a few months.. or years. lol

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by DailySX

Thanks! just bought some of the 3M exterior attachment tape. Hopefully that's the right one and will last a few months.. or years. lol

make sure to clean BOTH surfaces THOROUGHLY for proper bonding!!! i cant stress that enough!

[black'N'proud]

Sorry if this has been asked before, but is a tune needed on a sr20det with walbro 255 fuel pump and greddy intake manifold? I'm asking because my car is still running very rich I think and has a hard time hitting boost. Also if a tune is needed would a wideband and fuel pressure regulator be useful to install before it gets tuned? I'm still looking for any vacumm leaks and the ecu isn't showing any fault codes but I just thought "well maybe it needs a tune." Thanks in advance for the advice.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by black'N'proud

Sorry if this has been asked before, but is a tune needed on a sr20det with walbro 255 fuel pump and greddy intake manifold? I'm asking because my car is still running very rich I think and has a hard time hitting boost. Also if a tune is needed would a wideband and fuel pressure regulator be useful to install before it gets tuned? I'm still looking for any vacumm leaks and the ecu isn't showing any fault codes but I just thought "well maybe it needs a tune." Thanks in advance for the advice.

you may have a boost leak POST turbo... if you are reusing screw clamps, thats your first problem. those things are only good for one or two uses. also, cheap STRAIGHT BOLT t-bolt clamps suck as well.

an adjustable FPR with gauge should always be installed with an upgraded fuel pump as the fuel pressure being output will usually increase (with walbros, it jumps up to 55-60psi on an OE SR FPR).

curious though, how do you know your car is running rich?

[black'N'proud]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

you may have a boost leak POST turbo... if you are reusing screw clamps, thats your first problem. those things are only good for one or two uses. also, cheap STRAIGHT BOLT t-bolt clamps suck as well.

an adjustable FPR with gauge should always be installed with an upgraded fuel pump as the fuel pressure being output will usually increase (with walbros, it jumps up to 55-60psi on an OE SR FPR).

curious though, how do you know your car is running rich?

Well first off let me say excuse my ignorance because I'm probably way off as to why I think it's running rich but I'm trying to learn all this as I go. I thought that if there is a vacumm leak then it would cause the ecu to compensate for the extra air coming in or leaking out, making the ecu add extra fuel that was being burned out the exhaust making the occasional popping noises.

The color of the smoke is white but I don't think it's a blown headgasket Since I just replaced it with a stock one. Also it doesn't have a "sweet" smell to it and I'm never low on coolant. It doesn't smoke all the time and it won't smoke on a cold start or any other time I've started it. Usually white smoke from the exhaust happens when I'm sitting at idle and it idles at a solid 1500 rpm's all the time. After driving it for a while I can wipe a rag around the inside of the exhaust tip and it's it seems like there is a small amount of oil in there. I thought if its burning oil the smoke would have a blue tint to it and I'd be a little low on oil. Sorry for the way to long post but I appreciate all of your advice.

[osk94]

Hey fellow S-Chassis owners, I have kind of an odd scenario. So recently I swapped out my left and right motor mounts and while I was raising the engine I was so focused on not hitting any hard fuel lines or vaccum hoses from the firewall that I completetly ignored the fan blades. In other words while I was raising my engine from the bottom of the oil pan to get some clearance, my fan blade was gradually raising the fan shroud and eventually broke just the top left piece where the charcoal canistee hoses are routed. Other than that the lower and everyrhing else but the upper plastic piece near the upper rad broke. My question is should I worry about my water pump being damaged from my fan hitting the fam shroud as I raised it or should I disregard it since it takes little to no force to break plastic. None of the fan blades nor the top pieces of the fan were damaged while it was being raises against the shroud. I just don't wanna have a pully being put of balance and causing damage to it but visibly I see no problem with the pully or fan clutch

[TheRealSy90]

It's probably fine.


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[osk94]

Ok cool. Pretty much what just broke was the upper part of the shroud because of tha fan raising it and eventually cracked it due to the force of the blade pushing it upwards. I let the car idle for a while and the temp stayed where it should be (under the white tick mark on the temp needle gauge). Just wanted to take precaution

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

It's probably fine.


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I second this opinion

[AllThingsGravy]

So I bought this 240 that the PO overheated because of coolant hose under the intake mani dripped out coolant. I'm worried about a blown HG. The oil is milky and there is nothing under the oil cap but when I took off the intake mani I saw coolant in one of the valves. Should I just replace the HG since I already took off the intake mani or just see if it's fine? I'm probably gonna swap the HG anyways but just wondering.

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[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

...Should I just replace the HG since I already took off the intake mani or just see if it's fine? I'm probably gonna swap the HG anyways but just wondering.

Sounds like you answered your own question, but If you have the means, you could perform a leak down/ compression check.

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[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Sounds like you answered your own question, but If you have the means, you could perform a leak down/ compression check.

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Car is dismantled already, starter is unplugged and such....

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[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Car is dismantled already, starter is unplugged and such....

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If the valves are still in, a leak down can still be performed.

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