Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Javi802]

Alright guys, ive tried searching this, but nobody in any thread that ive seen the same problem in, has had an answer..

I have a z32 maf and according to the 300zx fsm, key on engine off, the maf should have a voltage of .8 - 1.5 volts. Mine however is showing .48 volts, according to NDS.

At idle my voltage is about 1.25, which is within spec.


What is the reason for having to be at the voltage the fsm states, in an engine off state?

And what might be the symptoms of not getting the correct voltage with engine off, but getting the correct voltage when engine is on?

[BananaBandolero]

Couple door/window issues I could use some help with...

- Driver's side door unlatches too easily. Shuts fine (save for 2nd issue below) and latches, but when opening the door it's unlatched before the handle is even halfway pulled. Seems too easy, and I could see it getting worse over time. I noticed the black plastic wrapping the door striker is cracked and worn down. Is it a reasonable assumption that replacing that will fix this, or should I look elsewhere?

- Window seems loose in the driver's side door. When shutting the door the window wobbles somewhat worryingly, feel like I might eventually break it. This is just when closing the door, once shut it's as stable as one would expect. I can take the door apart and try to find loose bolts, but appreciate tips on what I should be looking for, or if I might need to replace a part to tighten things up.

Thanks

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

From the Centric/Stop Tech tech:

For your 240, there are basically only a few brake parts. 4 lug, and five lug, pre '96 ABS and Non ABS, and 96 forward since Nissan used ALL ABS sized brake parts post '96. Now I have not personally tested this, BUT, my '96 SE, manufacture date July '95 uses all 'ABS' rotors and parts, as does my son's '97 kouki, neither car being an ABS car. The rotors, Master and slave cylinders, calipers, are all the same.
My first zenki, an auto SE, manufacture date July '94, non ABS, five lug used the slightly smaller '95 non ABS parts...until it got totaled 3 weeks after I bought it.(Lesson here, never let your ol lady take your car to work, because idiots making left turns into oncoming cars will hit it. She was just sitting there when the big caddie SUV caused the destruction of a rental Sentra, my 240, and frontal/right front damage to her own SUV. Wait, bigger lesson...women should simply NOT drive. This is why they invented busses and taxi's)

Thanks for the input, but i was referring to the clutch master cylinder, do you know for certain if they are interchangeable? i have a 92 240 n wanna see if i was drop in an s14 clutch master cylinder from the nissan dealer since they apparently don't make s13 parts anymore

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by JayJay240sx

Whenever i look up the part it always says s13/s14 but when i called the nissan dealer they said they dont make parts for older than 94, so i asked if the s14 one would fit my s13 n he said no, i wanna get the dealer oem one because i just put in a duralast n the shit messed up already, so i guess what im saying is r u sure lol?

Yes, it will fit. They're both 5/8" Nabco units. You can get one for ~$15 from rockauto, I'd try that before spending $100 for one from dealer. Centric, Dorman, or Exedy are decent brands to choose from (and part numbers are same for both a 92 and 97)

[cnazzaro240]

wasent there someone on here making replica g grow aero at one time? anyone know who it was? thanks

[juhd]

having a few problems with my car and was wondering if anyone could help me out. at startup, its hard to start the car. i have to give it gas or else it will die out. also, my idle is kind of "lumpy" and its pretty rough. idk if its misfiring because it doesnt sound like the typical misfiring sound. usually when putting it in neutral, the idle will drop down and almost dies but never does. sometimes it will stay low until i give it gas then it will idle back at 750-800. sometimes it will idle fine then all of a sudden it will start to idle low. ive cleaned the maf, got new spark plugs, and new cap and rotor and all seemed to not help much at all.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by juhd

having a few problems with my car and was wondering if anyone could help me out. at startup, its hard to start the car. i have to give it gas or else it will die out. also, my idle is kind of "lumpy" and its pretty rough. idk if its misfiring because it doesnt sound like the typical misfiring sound. usually when putting it in neutral, the idle will drop down and almost dies but never does. sometimes it will stay low until i give it gas then it will idle back at 750-800. sometimes it will idle fine then all of a sudden it will start to idle low. ive cleaned the maf, got new spark plugs, and new cap and rotor and all seemed to not help much at all.

Compression test? Test MAF voltage?

[battery1882]

Originally Posted by Javi802

Alright guys, ive tried searching this, but nobody in any thread that ive seen the same problem in, has had an answer..

I have a z32 maf and according to the 300zx fsm, key on engine off, the maf should have a voltage of .8 - 1.5 volts. Mine however is showing .48 volts, according to NDS.

At idle my voltage is about 1.25, which is within spec.


What is the reason for having to be at the voltage the fsm states, in an engine off state?

And what might be the symptoms of not getting the correct voltage with engine off, but getting the correct voltage when engine is on?

I would try cleaning the maf sensor first; With proper cleaner.

If that doesn't fix it, It would have to be your sensor or wiring (ground).

[JayJay240sx]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Yes, it will fit. They're both 5/8" Nabco units. You can get one for ~$15 from rockauto, I'd try that before spending $100 for one from dealer. Centric, Dorman, or Exedy are decent brands to choose from (and part numbers are same for both a 92 and 97)

Thanks, i ordered an after market one by dorman so it should be getting here soon, i was just worried that if i did buy one from nissan it wouldnt line up correctly with the bolts on the firewall, but problem solved lol, thanks

[codyace]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

How does one test the dual pressure switch on the S13 KA AC system?

The system is recharged. The relay is good. It blew cold before sitting for a while.

Follow S13 procedure in FSM. It's the easiest way to go.

http://tech.240sxone.com/FSM/1993%20...20CA,US/HA.pdf

Two quick ones though:

Take a wire from the + battery post, direct to the compressor. Does cold air blow? Now you're got a switch issue.

Does the light in the dash illuminate when you press it for AC? Switch issue or low freon?

If you have 12v at the compressor, you have a bad clutch on the compressor

Originally Posted by Javi802

Alright guys, ive tried searching this, but nobody in any thread that ive seen the same problem in, has had an answer..

I have a z32 maf and according to the 300zx fsm, key on engine off, the maf should have a voltage of .8 - 1.5 volts. Mine however is showing .48 volts, according to NDS.

At idle my voltage is about 1.25, which is within spec.


What is the reason for having to be at the voltage the fsm states, in an engine off state?

And what might be the symptoms of not getting the correct voltage with engine off, but getting the correct voltage when engine is on?

Does the car run fine otherwise?

Id' not worry about it truthfully if it's low at KOEO

Originally Posted by juhd

having a few problems with my car and was wondering if anyone could help me out. at startup, its hard to start the car. i have to give it gas or else it will die out. also, my idle is kind of "lumpy" and its pretty rough. idk if its misfiring because it doesnt sound like the typical misfiring sound. usually when putting it in neutral, the idle will drop down and almost dies but never does. sometimes it will stay low until i give it gas then it will idle back at 750-800. sometimes it will idle fine then all of a sudden it will start to idle low. ive cleaned the maf, got new spark plugs, and new cap and rotor and all seemed to not help much at all.

Check for vacuum leak, or try another MAF

[codyace]

Does anyone know who was the manufacturer for RSR brand exhausts?

[Javi802]

Originally Posted by codyace

Follow S13 procedure in FSM. It's the easiest way to go.

http://tech.240sxone.com/FSM/1993%20...20CA,US/HA.pdf

Two quick ones though:

Take a wire from the + battery post, direct to the compressor. Does cold air blow? Now you're got a switch issue.

Does the light in the dash illuminate when you press it for AC? Switch issue or low freon?

If you have 12v at the compressor, you have a bad clutch on the compressor





Does the car run fine otherwise?

Id' not worry about it truthfully if it's low at KOEO



Check for vacuum leak, or try another MAF

No. When the engine is fully warmed up, it will either idle rich or idle lean. And in doing so the idle rpm will surge. Tried cleaning the maf, but no luck. What's weird is that pressing or letting off of the breaks affects the idle, as well as my lights. Say I'm rolling to a stop in neutral, with my foot on the break slowing down, afrs are roughly 14 5.. Foot still on the break as I'm stopped and idle is fine.. Second I let off of the break pedal, afrs will go rich and idle will surge, until I press the breaks again and afrs will go back to stoich and idle will settle. Sometimes the idle will still surge, but afrs will be normal..

BUT, sometimes its the complete opposite. At a stop, ill let go of the break pedal and ifrs will go full lean and idle will surge and misfire.. Until i press the break pedal. And then afrs will go stoich and idle rpm will level out. Like before though, sometimes afrs will go bad to stoich, but ilde surge and misfire will still be there.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by juhd

having a few problems with my car and was wondering if anyone could help me out. at startup, its hard to start the car. i have to give it gas or else it will die out. also, my idle is kind of "lumpy" and its pretty rough. idk if its misfiring because it doesnt sound like the typical misfiring sound. usually when putting it in neutral, the idle will drop down and almost dies but never does. sometimes it will stay low until i give it gas then it will idle back at 750-800. sometimes it will idle fine then all of a sudden it will start to idle low. ive cleaned the maf, got new spark plugs, and new cap and rotor and all seemed to not help much at all.

You replaced all the cheap ignition parts avoiding the obvious subject causing the problem. Save up your $75 and go buy a set of Taylor Import spark plug 8.8mm wires and you should be fine. Verify this in the dark, at night, by popping the hood. Your wires will have light blue sparks dancing around on the surface if they are bad(so far, you are describing old ass spark plug wires symptom)

http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Cable-7...+plug+wire+set


You can look up blue or red too, but any set of wires that adds a legit 3hp is OK in my book. There are also wires by OBXR and VSR Racing(sp) that work too

[juhd]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

You replaced all the cheap ignition parts avoiding the obvious subject causing the problem. Save up your $75 and go buy a set of Taylor Import spark plug 8.8mm wires and you should be fine. Verify this in the dark, at night, by popping the hood. Your wires will have light blue sparks dancing around on the surface if they are bad(so far, you are describing old ass spark plug wires symptom)

http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Cable-7...+plug+wire+set


You can look up blue or red too, but any set of wires that adds a legit 3hp is OK in my book. There are also wires by OBXR and VSR Racing(sp) that work too

Oops forgot to mention but wires are new as well. Going to be trying a new maf soon tho

[zwzweston]

So I've really been looking into the yashio factory consult v2, but I'm concerned about the coolant temp sensor capability. It pulls the temp from the ecu coolant temp sensor rather than a separate one as the first version did. Is this accurate enough? I know the temp sensor for the gauge is crap, but how accurate is the ecu one? Thanks in advance

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by zwzweston

So I've really been looking into the yashio factory consult v2, but I'm concerned about the coolant temp sensor capability. It pulls the temp from the ecu coolant temp sensor rather than a separate one as the first version did. Is this accurate enough? I know the temp sensor for the gauge is crap, but how accurate is the ecu one? Thanks in advance

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

ECU temp sensor gauge will show correct motor temp. your factory gauge in the cluster is set to have a normal range, it only begins to move when you go outside of like 220 deg i believe. the ECU sensor reads just like an aftermarket unit would (as in, it will display accurate coolant temp info).

[zwzweston]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

ECU temp sensor gauge will show correct motor temp. your factory gauge in the cluster is set to have a normal range, it only begins to move when you go outside of like 220 deg i believe. the ECU sensor reads just like an aftermarket unit would (as in, it will display accurate coolant temp info).

Thanks! I appreciate the accurate information and quick response.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[derass]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

your factory gauge in the cluster is set to have a normal range, it only begins to move when you go outside of like 220 deg i believe.

I was curious about this myself and did some data-logging to investigate. Surprisingly, the temperature gauge in the cluster is actually a good indication of when things are getting too hot. The middle of the gauge represents normal operating temperature and its upper mark, what I like to call "full-hot", represents 220 F, which is right about the absolute maximum that water temps should be allowed to reach before possibly causing damage.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by zwzweston

So I've really been looking into the yashio factory consult v2, but I'm concerned about the coolant temp sensor capability. It pulls the temp from the ecu coolant temp sensor rather than a separate one as the first version did. Is this accurate enough? I know the temp sensor for the gauge is crap, but how accurate is the ecu one? Thanks in advance

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Everyone around upper mid TN seems to like the Nismotronic. That's all I been hearing lately. Of course having Yashio Factory, Bee-R, or any JDM stuff is levels up on cool cred points

[BatGang]

Plz help s13 sr20det into s14 won't start just cranks ,new fuel pump new ignitor chip c.a.s has been reset getting spark buddy helped yesterday and said injectors were clicking ecu light powers on I believe all my grounds are connected

[SoundEfx]

Yo Batgang, you don't need to go around asking the same question in any thread you see fit. Give it some time and someone might answer your question.

To your issue, injector clicking is one thing, but are they spraying the fuel properly?

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by BatGang

Plz help s13 sr20det into s14 won't start just cranks ,new fuel pump new ignitor chip c.a.s has been reset getting spark buddy helped yesterday and said injectors were clicking ecu light powers on I believe all my grounds are connected

You need to slow down with the parts swapping and do a real diagnostics.

Running Stock ECU?

New used or new new Ignitor?

Have you pulled each injector one at a time to test for spray?

I recently weren't through a whole no-start fuck my life project when I switched from a stock ECU to a MS2.

Turned out -

Bad Ignitor despite two coils getting juice.

Bad CAS- it just was not reading right

Bad Fuel Filter - Oh long winters

Bad Injector - was only dribbling fuel.


Got that all fixed, retuned and blew up my TOB.

[BatGang]

Sorry bout that ,but ecu stock, new new ignitor,new new fuel filter,and when it warns back up going to try taking one injector out at a time to see if it's spraying.thanks for the info will update soon about injectors

[BatGang]

Now if injectors are squirting fine what would be next?

[BrianMoore240]

I am having trouble locating the harness that connects to the Evap canister on the 1996 OBDII 240sx. I have a bad plug so i have the code po446, Im trying to pass emissions unfort. so i need it. Anyone have this or where i could possibly find this. Willing to pay

My facebook post is here : https://www.facebook.com/groups/1015...59986621169290

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by BatGang

Now if injectors are squirting fine what would be next?

CAS I guess.

[BatGang]

@Corbic the cas being bad it wouldn't allow spark would it?

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by BatGang

@Corbic the cas being bad it wouldn't allow spark would it?

I got spark on mine. It just had no idea when to spark. Now granted it would burp or miss fire when trying to start but it wouldn't run at all.

[BrianMoore240]

Originally Posted by BrianMoore240

I am having trouble locating the harness that connects to the Evap canister on the 1996 OBDII 240sx. I have a bad plug so i have the code po446, Im trying to pass emissions unfort. so i need it. Anyone have this or where i could possibly find this. Willing to pay

My facebook post is here : https://www.facebook.com/groups/1015...59986621169290

Can nobody help ?

[derass]

What do you need help with? Are you trying to buy the connector and wiring? Or can you not find it in your engine bay?