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03-19-2013, 03:31 AM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Wiring.
Soldering all this and it's done, we only need some kind of sexy fusebox instead of the fatty thats in the engine bay stock, which is just pure overkill after everything we've removed..
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03-19-2013, 08:58 AM | #2 |
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If you're gunna run this thing anywhere near low, you'll want to flip those cage bolts the other way round, so you don't gouge your tires, or scrape the ground with them!
Made that mistake before. |
03-19-2013, 10:58 AM | #3 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
Yeah I know, but thanks anyway. I havent cutted the bolts yet as I most likely will use some hardened Unbraco instead which is shorter. Cheers
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03-21-2013, 04:41 PM | #4 |
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Micro update.
Took the main tower plates off of the cusco strut as the painted red color was not fitting in my engine bay, looked like shit with red in there, even Cusco blue would been better, but I removed all the paint with sand. here is how the contrast was, red versus the FN2 color in the bay Demounted After stripping off the paint and adding the special Wrinkle colour, it was time for some baking! after about an hour at 93 degrees celcius, dinner was served. Closeup Didn't have time for it today but having the gold coated tomorrow, so it looks the same as my rocker cover: Cheers!
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03-21-2013, 08:42 PM | #5 |
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The china arms are usually poorly powdercoated, which is undoubtedly why you had issues with the blast cabinent removing them. It's nasty stuff!
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03-22-2013, 01:46 AM | #6 | |
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Nice seeing you still looks into this build I think I have to get a BOV and Apexi PFC to get some more response here on the forum
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03-22-2013, 03:03 PM | #7 | |
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Yea that powdercoat is funny to remove. YOu can use Permetex Gasket remover to get it off too.
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03-22-2013, 04:09 PM | #8 | |
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Aha, thanks for the tip, I'll use it next time. Think I spent an hour or more in the cabinet with a 100 litres aircompressor :P More updates in about 24 hours
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03-22-2013, 10:10 AM | #10 |
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Thanks mate, maybe dat be daint should come over and fab lhd on a s15 hehe ;-)
Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2
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03-22-2013, 05:17 PM | #12 |
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i use to run a sand blasting shop, and we blast wine barrel racks, to have them re powder coated, its crazy how well it can stick, but peel at the same time
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03-22-2013, 05:30 PM | #13 | |
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yeah, exactly same as i have experienced, sticks more than glue but also can peel off like old paint on wood after some time
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04-07-2013, 05:41 PM | #14 |
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Spontanious decided to place the radiator in the rear.
Positive: Better cooling Better wheight balance More space in engine bay More flow trough the intercooler Negative Noisy Could be fatal if one of the lines gets a rift More cost to a build that have already ruined me Also have to get the air out of the trunk, so this was the best thing to do after this is how it looks from the inside Made and welded in some braces to mount the radiator to, and this was the best position. I didn't want it standing vertically as it would look so ugly haha. Plan is to make either a Lexan or carbon fibre duct for the air to get out. Also need to make everything look nice as well! It's only half done yet. I could not take any more pictures of the cylinder head, as it is in another garage for fixing a intake valve leak in cyl. 2 Hoping to rebuild the motor in the coming 2 weeks, depending on how much time I got for it. The other garage wich is "dust free" is about 2 hours of driving from here :P More updates to come adding a few random pics : Fres beginning of a new day, whats better than an entire Sunday at the garage? First step I had in mind was getting the engine lowered and into the right position! Found the upper oilpan, lifted the block out of the car and put on the upper oilpan and mounted it back to the gearbox. at first I got it about 1 cm lowered, sitting about 2cm above the steering. Took the jack, a small plank and place it underneat of the front of the oilpan. lowered it so it laid on the steering, than raised it by 1,5mm Now it's about to get tight! Now its about 30mm lower than originally mounted by Nissan! Custom bellhousing, cut it off the primera gearbox. About the CAS, I took the one who came with the engine and cut off the plastic cover from it, to see whats inside Took a spare 54c cylinder head and lait it ontop of the block to check how things would mount I also had to measure how low the engine now sits the ground, 61cm on the spot! To do this I just slammed on some coilovers in the front and lower arms + Knucles and put some wheels on in the front, and laid it on some planks in the rear Oilpan - "How low can your SR20 go?" Also mounted some more things into the enginebay, to see how it will look when done. Tires that I plan to run. Yokohama Advan. 250 in front, 280 rear Have to make a downpipe and exhaust!! About 10mm of clearance, but I didn't realise the cylinder head was not placed right at the moment, So I was glad that it seemed to fit! ;/ Opened the CAS the Autronic can read this plate, it got like 350 tooth or something, but It would not be the best. Luckily for me, I already had a special made Autronic trigger plate for the SR20 Cas =D Got the head on spot later, showed about 1mm clearance! So, plan is to cut away the piece that hits the firewall. It is no point keeping it anymore anyway.. The scratces above the paint, its from how far up the engine was originalle sitting, when I started checking how the CAS would fit many weeks ago, surely i have gotten it lowered! Pizza is needed when we stay here all day!No worries, car needs to be repainted anyway though Custom motor mounts I also visited my M8's garage today. He is an experte when it comes to cylinder heads! He is a Ingeniour working at the Kongsberg Aero group facility, working with Air flow in engines. When I first saw the BTCC head he literally fingered it and smiled Took a snap of the head, laying there on one of his benches. Note the combustin chamber is machined all out for 90mm bore with not much Squish. We have talked about the valvesizes. I could insert 2mm Ø larger valves on the exhaust, and 1mm Ø larger intake, but if I do that they would be in touch when they are closed, and it could cause failure. Also made the upper radiator mounts! For the request: totally knifed and HUGE. It cannot even be compared to a normal SR20 head ports... About 55mm <-> I know the garage looks like a Hobo nest! :O That is because of a lot of people dropping by to see how it looks and things get super messy. Have to do a major cleanup soon!! Good night
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04-10-2013, 12:04 PM | #20 |
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No problem- Engelsken din er bedre enn mour Norsk
solder = ledning loddetinn... (In case I didn't say it correctly- connecting the wires with the melted metal stuff) I thought solder was an odd choice as well. I don't like how rigid it gets... I prefer splices- not the cheap ones... but the aircraft-grade splices with the barrel connectors & environmental sleeves.
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04-10-2013, 12:15 PM | #21 | |
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Aha ok, I kind of tought so Well the guy doing the job is very skilled with it, he is building computers and such. I would have used some filty and good connectors if I had, but at the time I don't + I have no sponsors besides my second spareblock I got sleeved and such for 1/3 price. Running so low on cash that I can't even remember when I was buying anything than work clothes last time
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04-08-2013, 01:28 PM | #22 | |
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Will try to stay off the curbs, at least the Sent from my LT25i using Tapatalk 2
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04-09-2013, 01:03 PM | #23 |
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This is amazing stuff- can't wait to hear what this thing is going to sound like!
Make sure to put a screen over the turbine to keep small animals and children from getting sucked in
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04-10-2013, 01:52 AM | #25 | ||
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Well I can't wait myself. The crankshaft is now done and I am going to drive and pick it up either today or tomorrow. Also te new custom rod bearings with no holes in them so it will handle high pressure and much rpm without Oilfilm divinding, making metal to metal. I will try my best to avoid sucking that in haha Quote:
Hoping to make an exhaust that works well. Been studying how the Ferraris etc make the exhaust sound like that their turboed cars sound like N/A. Also buying a valve to quickly swap the WG pipes open or into downpipe. Problem is 100 DB is max for Norwegian racetracks
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04-10-2013, 06:51 AM | #27 |
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90-100mm piping, as few bends as possible and a flowy resonator or two in there might keep the noise down. Not sure though- that's a helluva lot of power to try to keep quiet=)
Is this going to be a drag or circuit car? Sorry if you already posted that somewhere- I was too hypnotized by the insanity of the build lol
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04-10-2013, 10:54 AM | #28 | |
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Glad to hear!
Quote:
Yeah, Going to make the dp 4". At first the plan was having a cool streetcar for summer usage then all this happened the past year and a half I think it's being a timeattack/circuit car without any special licence atm. Also the local SX club will arrange some dragracing in the meetings and such and I've got quite a few already asking me to race them in a drag haha. Main purpose is to go fast around the track, and not sideways. I mainy bought a SX as I am tired of seeing them all just go sideways haha, so I want to make a difference. I know the Silvia got potentional. Next year I got some special plans of a tubeframe silvia, inspired by gt300 and gt500 class, just even wider. Posting update tomorrow Cheers
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04-10-2013, 12:31 PM | #29 |
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^^ I do pick up other languages quite well, but in this case, I blame Google Translate for whatever I said incorrectly Aside from English, I can speak German and Farci quite well... and some Spanish.
Back to your build... Hey man, you are saving money and still creating a TOTALLY EXTREME car- In the big picture, as long as the wires are secure; you are good to go~
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04-10-2013, 12:49 PM | #30 | |
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When I was younger and went to school I studied french for 2 years, most wasted time in my life. Cannot remember anything else than how to get a woman laid lol. Well, Have to use some low-life fixes like that, but still i think it will work. I will anyway rebuild the car in the future. Been looking @ the Chasebays Mil spec 44 pin connector (aircraft connector) to use in the firewall in the Autronic loom, but the one on Chasebays is quite expensive, and those on ebay don't have both connectors. + the tool is quite expensive, but I have to say that is one hell of a sexy contact!
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