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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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03-04-2007, 02:58 PM | #1 |
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S13 & S14 Rear Ball Joints Answered
S13 & S14 Rear Ball Joints
Nissan doesn't sell the ball joint separate from the rear lower control arm. Upon doing some digging the following will work in the rear S13 = B13 SE-R front, we used MOOG Part # K9449 S14 = Same as S14 front, I used MOOG Part # K9820 |
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03-17-2007, 06:13 PM | #3 |
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According to the NAPA website, they have B13 upper and lower ball joints, is there any difference? Both show the same non-Napa PN, K9449
http://www.napaautoparts.com/MasterP...MPartNum=K9449 |
03-17-2007, 06:16 PM | #4 | |
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03-17-2007, 07:56 PM | #5 |
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So is this definite? I dont wanna havta go out and buy some ball joins i think will work in my rear and end up braking something cause they fell off or whatever.
Sounds awesome though. |
04-11-2007, 12:21 PM | #6 |
Hi,
It seems like a lot of ppl are running into this problem! (ALL 240 owners apparently) Has anyone figured out if the "S14 front lower ball joint = S14 rear lower ball joint" question? I've checked this thread about this person claiming he has done it without measuring it and it worked out perfectly fine. However, he's banned so I cant contact him to see how it's holding up until now and really, one guy's story can't be taken seriously unless it is confirmed by numerous other sources... http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...ear+ball+joint Thanks. Nima |
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04-11-2007, 12:43 PM | #7 |
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They do not interchange fron to rear, this is fact. As for other models crossing over, I'd seriously think a manafacturer would detail that. Odds are that there still is not a direct fit, OE replacement for the rear Aarm for either S13 or S14, but people are getting away with 'close' and not breaking anything yet.
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04-11-2007, 03:45 PM | #8 |
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i'm in the middle of this problem to. are you 100% sure the s14 rears are diff then the s14 fronts? i went out and bought a moog #k9820 and it looks identical but i'm not gonna put it in unless its safe.
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07-06-2007, 07:34 PM | #10 |
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Honestly, someone who has tried this or has some ball joints needs to whip out a caliper and start taking measurements. Its not something you want to eyeball and take a chance on, but if there's a good alternative to new arms, this will save people a lot of money.
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07-06-2007, 09:40 PM | #11 |
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this is Adikt at a local event
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=P1010143.flv I'd say they're holding up just fine. |
07-07-2007, 08:25 AM | #12 |
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Someone has gotten a mic out and measured the balls, apparently there's exactly 1 extra millimeter on the b13 balls. I think I'm gonna try it. I've got a 30 ton press at work so hopefully I can get them in with no problem, lol. I mean without breaking the arms, I know they'll go in with that press.
Adikt, any final say on the b13 ball joints to s13 rear ball joints? Still holding up? I couldnt see the pic above at work, nor would I even know if it was before or after you got your new balls. Thanks |
07-08-2007, 10:25 AM | #13 | |
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just got to see that, how nice, lol
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07-28-2007, 02:04 AM | #14 |
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The ones in my s14 were changed out in march, to this day they still work perfectly.
I've been driving it on the street alot and have been to 6 track events so far, no extra play, nothing looks out of the ordinary, no noise clanks or clunks everything checks out and runs like a dream. The s13 ones went into my buddies hatch around the same time. We only got it running 2 weeks ago but theres no issues yet. Once one goes out I'll let you guys know ALSO would like to add that I nailed a curb sideways and destroyed my pass. lower control arm, the balljoint made it out fine and I reused it in the LCA I swapped in Last edited by Adikt; 07-28-2007 at 02:06 AM.. Reason: more info |
09-17-2007, 08:07 AM | #17 |
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still holding up just fine, both our cars have been drivin to the limit at almost 10 events this year and no problems
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09-17-2007, 10:46 AM | #18 | |
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please post this in my suspension FAQ, so it won't get lost forever in the tech section. it's stickied at the top
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12-15-2007, 02:33 AM | #19 |
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Bump old thread cause I'm adding a few pictures of the Sentra front ball joints for use on the s13 RLCA. I installed these ball joints back in March of 2007, it's now 9 months ~8k miles later, and things seem to be still be ok. Just needed the PN again and wanted to add these forgotten pictures.
Got these Sentra front ball joints from Napa, so much time has passed I forgot the price. IIRC they were more expensive than I thought they should be... ^ oem s13 rear ball joint on the right, Napa Sentra front BJ on the left. ^ oem s13 rear ball joint on the right, Napa Sentra front BJ on the left. ^ oem s13 ball joint diam: ~38mm ^ sentra ball join diam: ~39mm [FYI, the s13 RLCA ball joint hole diameter measures out to <= 38mm] ^ Sentra ball joint pressed in. The snap ring rides higher, that was about the only difference I noticed. I can't see the snap ring really providing that much support to the ball joint, especially considering the forced fitment. Maybe someone who knows more can chime in on that subject, but I don't think it's an issue... It hasn't caused any major catastrophe for me yet, these seem to work.. Do it if you can't find/afford/wait for new OEM LCA's. |
12-18-2007, 09:31 AM | #21 |
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We had been doing this years ago, because it's the only way to get a Spicer ball joint for the 240=)
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12-18-2007, 12:49 PM | #23 |
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They work perfectly... I've been running these in my car for the last year and a half... Mostly track time...
Here is more info: http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthr...=159071&page=2
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12-18-2007, 04:42 PM | #24 |
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Not to say it doesn't work, or it isn't safe, but now that you've gone and pressed that ball joint in to your LCA, it will never accept another one again. From an engineer's stand point, you are doing a very bad thing. the retaining clip should be firmly pressed against the LCA to prevent the ball joint from moving around, and the extra mm could end up cracking the LCA and your wheel will fall off tearing some stuff up along the way.
Again, I'm no engineer, but from experience, almost right is still wrong. think about it, what happens when you try to break a 10mm bolt with an 11mm 12 point socket? it strips the bolt/socket, no? and you would never hammer a 10 mm socket on to an 11mm bolt, correct? If you asked me, that wasn't the smartest thing to do. Given the resources, here's what I'd do: Get the Sentra ball joint into a lathe, mill off .5mm (this will equal 1mm because you are taking material off of both sides at the same time, it's round) from the part that seats into the LCA. Now install the b.j. to the LCA, take a measurement from the top of the LCA to the bottom of the snap ring seat. Get some mild steel flat stock and mill/turn out some spacers to take up that space. You could weld them to the LCA, or just let the snap ring hold them in place, they won't go anywhere. Another option would be to take the LCA and modify it to fit the Sentra ball joint as a direct fit, with no spacers, or machine work on the ball joint. I know, I know, shut up, noob. But, hey, I'm just giving my opinion on the matter, and the fact that this could be considered a safety issue, I thought it would be good to give everyone some more thought food. |
03-28-2008, 09:19 AM | #25 | |
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you're missing the fact that the nut on the top of the ball joint draws it up and holds it in the LCA as well as connects it to the upright. its not going anywhere and by the way, how would you chuck up a ball joint in a lathe?? dont think its possible and even if you could the chuck would be way to close to the bottom shank Last edited by jim1234664; 04-14-2008 at 11:33 AM.. |
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03-28-2008, 09:24 AM | #26 |
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How the hell did you manage to get that thing pressed in? 1mm difference is HUGE for tolerance fit parts. I'm amazed you didn't crack the LCA in the process. I had enough trouble just pressing in some new s14 balljoints into my s13 LCA's.
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03-28-2008, 12:07 PM | #27 |
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goes in pretty damn smooth if you freeze the balljoint and use a C-clamp press thing.
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04-14-2008, 11:24 AM | #28 |
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Just used the C-CLAMP press tool. I checked the LCA afterwards and there are no visible cracks. Done this twice now with no issues, seems to be the only option for the rear aside from new lca's...
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04-14-2008, 01:32 PM | #30 | |
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