The fabrication thread.

[bardabe]

Nice Cage

msglngth

[mkomar24]

With such a tight fit how were you able to weld all the way around the ddor bars where they join to the main hoop? This is just amazing work! I imagine the conversation going like this;

customer: "lets weld in gussets when its done"
you: "nah screw gussets, I think I will just make the cage fit so well that I can weld it directly to the chassis!"
customer: "you win."

[MELLO*SOS]

Awesome cage Roco. Do you use Bend tech or similar software to lay it out? Lots of hours fitting and welding it looks like.

I'm also curious about how you welded around the doorbars and other stuff super close to the chassis.

Excellent fitment dude, you deserve a beer or 12.

[TrIpLe "D"]

nice work that cage is bad ass and fits well, what is that yellow thang a degree finder? were can u buy one ?

[roco]

thanks guys,when making the cage that tight welding the bars is quiet difficult, and you end up making more work for your self, theres a few diffrent ways of doing it, but they all have one thing in common,
you have to plan each tube going into the car carefully, plan the position and angle. as the tube you put in may hinder you welding the next. but saying that you still have to maintain a strong structure and have all nodes meeting correctly. all the roof bars, brace bars and all bars on the main cage frame are all tacked in place and then i drop the main hoop (only) through the floor and finnish the welds, i then hike up the frame and theres just enough room to finnish the rear section. the door bars and sill bars are welded 95% around theres just the tiny bit on the inner apex of the joint that cant be got, but that minor flaw is outweighed by the fact the joint is the welded directly tho the car chasis for a good 1 1/2" each way giving more strenght and stiffness.
plus if you build the cage so tight you could technically just tack weld each tube in place and it would probably stay in place. i wouldnt try it though, lol.

@ mello... thanks dude, no didnt use bend tech, i build it out of my head and a measuring tape, i just bought pro there off cris, so looking forward to usein it, apperantly ive been missing out.

[atutt]

Originally Posted by duffman1278

How is that programs ease of use, compared to programs like autodesk inventor? I can design a cage on Inventor but it's not the quickest thing in the world. Is that program you guys are talking really basic to use?

Like I said. What I posted I made in about 45 mins. I have ZERO experience with ANY kind of computer aided design program...

It doesn't get any easier than this program.

[roco]

like the 4x4 cage attut, similar to the demo. i still have to play around with my bend tech, havent even had time to install it properly yet. looks good though.


@trippleD. i got the anglefinder off protools, they have a few differnt types.

[Chamb-O]

So what does everyone think of subframe connectors on s-13's?





basically built them for a project for school
and I am tying in my main hoop into them


(excuse my nasty MIG beads)

[atutt]

Originally Posted by roco

like the 4x4 cage attut, similar to the demo. i still have to play around with my bend tech, havent even had time to install it properly yet. looks good though.


@trippleD. i got the anglefinder off protools, they have a few differnt types.

You'll love this program...

I made this... While looking at pics of your white 180 cage...
I was bored and I'm still learning all the buttons and their purpose..

[roco]

feck thats very similar!!! good job...

i must get it sorted and get playing, i say playing as it looks like fun.

[tkocrewsr]

Originally Posted by Chamb-O

So what does everyone think of subframe connectors on s-13's?





basically built them for a project for school
and I am tying in my main hoop into them


(excuse my nasty MIG beads)

could you pm me somemore pics and dimensions because i am interested in one for my car.

[killer240]

i have welded before and people said it was ok for my 1st time.
i wish know how to weld. this thread makes me wana take a welding class and just buy my own welder.

[bloodangels13]

loving the sub-frame connector set-up. pics with specs please

[MELLO*SOS]

^ Do it.. Just buy your own welder and start practicing, you'll get the hang of it. A Millermatic 211 would be a good choice. See WeldingWeb™ - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts - Powered by vBulletin forum for more info on choosing a welder, techniques, etc.

[Chamb-O]

Originally Posted by bloodangels13

loving the sub-frame connector set-up. pics with specs please

well I followed the stock hat channel
I used 2x3 .120 wall for the main frame rails and the rocker extensions
and 1x2 .120 wall for the mid crossmember and notched it an inch for exhaust clearance

Don't have the exact specs on length but its pretty easy to figure out
I built it in the car...tacked it and then just took it out to weld the tops
clamped it to the frame bench so it wouldn't warp

[duffman1278]

Got my welder up and running today! So I practiced some pieces. I was having some issues with aluminum though, it seemed to take about 20 seconds before my puddle was even being created. I tried cranking up the amps also and it sort of helped. I was using a red tungsten, don't know if that might cause this?

[blu808]

which machine are you using?

[duffman1278]

A Miller syncrowave 180. When I did seem to get the puddle, it was growing bigger and bigger pretty quickly even though I was moving.

[MELLO*SOS]

duffman congrats on your new machine! Your sync 180 is a transformer based machine (as opposed to newer inverter based machines) and very similar to the sync 200 I was using... Most say to use a green (pure tungsten) on aluminum, and red (2% thoriated) on steel, on transformer machines. However this is also a matter of personal preference, some people just learn with one and use it everywhere. I personally didn't like the green on aluminum very much, I ended up using Arc-Zone.com Arc Time hybrid/rare-earth tungstens. They are rare earth tri-mix, ceriated/lanthinated/zirconated they can be used on steel or aluminum. Also on aluminum I use a 3/32 tungsten and 1/8 filler rod. I had problems with the 1/16 rod melting before it got to the puddle, probably a problem with my torch angle, but 1/8 was much easier to work with. The 1/16 tungsten was also melting away, I believe it was too much current for it so I stepped up to the 3/32 and haven't regretted it. Lastly most say to use the gas lens tips instead of the regular gas cups on your torch, they smooth the argon flow and have better shielding ability.

For aluminum try setting your amps to 1amp per .001 thickness. So if you're working on 1/8" aluminum set at 125amps, I use 140a or so. Make the puddle full blast on the pedal to get the puddle started quickly, otherwise if you wait around you add a lot of heat to the material and end up with a wide puddle. Once the puddle is started you can back off the pedal a little. On 16ga aluminum I use around 75-85amps.

There's lots of good info at WeldingWeb™ - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts - Powered by vBulletin a welding forum I visit..

[MELLO*SOS]

I finally got a chance to try out my new Hougen hole saws! Man these things are sweet, they cut super fast and leave a BEAUTIFUL hole, virtually NO flash/garbage to clean off! Literally brush it off with your glove and it's ready for dimples/bolts/etc.



^ 1 3/4" hole saw chucked up to my drill press. I bought the lube which goes on the teeth before each use to extend the life..



^ Literally right off the drill press, slapped dimple dies on it and pressed. No hole cleanup with grinder/file/etc!

I'm really impressed with these.. They're a little pricey around $20 to $50 each but well worth the money IMO compared to regular bi-metal hole saws.

[S14_Kouki]

Well it looks like everyone is building cool stuff. Those sub frame braces posted above are huge lol deff look like there going to work.

[Otto347]

Bend tech works really well, took me a few times measuring to make sure I had the right dimensions and started bending. I was a little light on the spring back setting so I wouldn't bend any of the angles too far. Top two bends ended up perfect and I had to put and extra 4° on the two lower bends but there is a finger gap around the whole thing.

[duffman1278]

Decided to stiffen up my spare OEM arms with some metal plates I found around my house.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by Otto347

Bend tech works really well, took me a few times measuring to make sure I had the right dimensions and started bending. I was a little light on the spring back setting so I wouldn't bend any of the angles too far. Top two bends ended up perfect and I had to put and extra 4° on the two lower bends but there is a finger gap around the whole thing.

hey is that a 240SX? is the seat bolted on? if so can i see a pic of ur bracket?

[ballinnmiami240sx]

otto: make sure that your main hoop is 180* +/-10. if you plan to compete in NASA, formula d....you might not end up passing tech.



First cage: I used the 2010 formula d and nasa rule books to make this cage.

[blu808]

looks badass bro. good work. Nice to see people keeping this thread going. That harness bar is a bit high though. The door bars look sweet though with the gusseting.

[ballinnmiami240sx]

thanks man. I really didnt have a guide on the harness bar.

[blu808]

I'm sure it will be coo. looks great!

[ka-titties]

where can you go about getting guidelines for cage building for specific events like formula D and such?

oh and ballinmiami, what is up with your LCA? why is the ball joint stud so long and whats the cut in the LCA for?

[GSXRJJordan]

I thought of you today Luke (and to a lesser extent, this thread) when I was contemplating finishing my trunk today. Did other stuff instead lol.

Originally Posted by ka-titties

where can you go about getting guidelines for cage building for specific events like formula D and such?

oh and ballinmiami, what is up with your LCA? why is the ball joint stud so long and whats the cut in the LCA for?

Roll center correction (although if it's really that long, you've overcorrected) and increased steering angle (so the tie rod end clears the LCA).