Axles changed and now clicks during turns - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

S-Nation S13 · 07-05-2015, 03:03 PM

So i had to change my axles, i replaced them and now every time i turn left or right i have a clunk/click noise. i have a welded diff, and adjustable rear link which i have tightened all the way to the correct torque any insights?

cotbu · 07-05-2015, 06:34 PM

NSFW

normal clunk clique for a welded,or post video or audio.

dbeiler · 07-05-2015, 07:31 PM

What caused you to replace the original axles?

A clicking or clunking noise is a sign of worn CV joints in the axle. Located inside the rubber boot, the rotating balls on the spider assy will get flat spots. As you're turning, the flat spot ball smacks into the side joint housing.

Leave the car in neutral. Turn the steering wheel hard right or left. Push the car forward very slowly while closely watching the axle shafts. Is the noise heard only once during each axle revolution and always at the same spot?

Have you inspected the welded diff lately? The welds may have cracked, allowing the axles to spin slightly independent of each other.

S-Nation S13 · 07-05-2015, 08:18 PM

Long story short I changed them because my PBM toe rod snapped causing my axle to rub on my coilover (DR) side damaging it, so since I changed one side I decided to change both. Failed and picked up an O'Reilly set of axle as I needed to change them asap (work/transportation) reasons

My diff is welded with a quarter in plate so it's safe to say what if the welds fail my diff will blow up like a grenade.

G-E@Z31P · 07-05-2015, 11:18 PM

Is it possible something is bent and the distance is shorter causing the axle to bottom out the CV in the cup under certain conditions?

kruked · 07-06-2015, 06:14 PM

Could be that they're not broken in yet.

Your drive shaft could be out of ballance if you took it off for whatever reason to change the axles

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-06-2015, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

and picked up an O'Reilly set of axles...

thats your problem right there.

unfortunately, brand new OE axles are no longer in existence and 9 out of 10 aftermarket axles you purchase are remans.

i would highly suggest purchasing a set of Driveshaft Shop axles if you want brand new (which is going to run $400-$500, but will support up to 500whp)... outside of that youre going to keep running into the same problem. i went thru 3 drivers side aftermarket OE replacements and 2 passengers from RockAuto before i said screw it and had my OE axles rebooted and regreased. all of the Rock Auto axles clicked and clunked during acceleration and turning (they didnt even fit snug into the hub compared to the OEs). my OEs were just fine, they needed new boots was all so i had a friends shop take care of it (theres a specific tool needed to reboot axles, it stretches the rubber boot over the axle properly).

Bushido · 07-06-2015, 07:10 PM

Ive been getting a ticking sound when i do low speed maneuvers like pull into s parking space.

KiLLeR2001 · 07-06-2015, 07:42 PM

Yeah I've heard plenty of bad stories about remanned axles. If you are looking to push over 500hp it is best to step up to the 6x1 Z32TT / G50 Q45 axles.

*anti tyler* · 07-06-2015, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

thats your problem right there.

unfortunately, brand new OE axles are no longer in existence and 9 out of 10 aftermarket axles you purchase are remans.

i would highly suggest purchasing a set of Driveshaft Shop axles if you want brand new (which is going to run $400-$500, but will support up to 500whp)... outside of that youre going to keep running into the same problem. i went thru 3 drivers side aftermarket OE replacements and 2 passengers from RockAuto before i said screw it and had my OE axles rebooted and regreased. all of the Rock Auto axles clicked and clunked during acceleration and turning (they didnt even fit snug into the hub compared to the OEs). my OEs were just fine, they needed new boots was all so i had a friends shop take care of it (theres a specific tool needed to reboot axles, it stretches the rubber boot over the axle properly).

You don't want to listen to him, he's a huge market place meanie lol. Jk, sounds like you're in my boat. Except I have a thump and not a clunk. I've been told get a pair of chassis ears to narrow down exactly where your noise is. It's possible it's not coming from where you think it is. I've narrowed mine down to the differential. Now mine is an lsd but you could have the same problem. Have you confirmed your half shafts are in good standing. Not sliding in and out causing an issue? If you put new shafts on and you're hearing noise whether they're reman or not your issue may be elsewhere.

S-Nation S13 · 07-07-2015, 01:39 AM

So I was able to track down some OE AXLES I'll slap them on this weekend if it checks out then I can say it was the reman axles at fault

But now I have another problem !!! Ugh fuck this car lol

Drove to work like I normally do, parked, turned off the car pulled my key out (5 seconds later everything turns on as if I had my keys in the acc position just before the start position

I was able to get everything to shut off went to work, long behold battery drained while I was a work (12 hr. shift)
Got a jump from triple a everything worked drove home and the shit got worse

Car on everything fine

Turn car off key out car on
Disconnected the ign switch car on
Disconnected the ground with positive cable still on .. Car still on
Disconnected the positive cable and ground cable .. Car still on
Disconnected the alt fuse car still on
Disconnected the fuel pump fuse car finally died

WTF if it's not one thing it's the other damn this car !!!

07-05-2015, 03:03 PM	#1
S-Nation S13 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: LAND of the LOST Posts: 4,083 Trader Rating: (92) Feedback Score: 92 reviews	Axles changed and now clicks during turns So i had to change my axles, i replaced them and now every time i turn left or right i have a clunk/click noise. i have a welded diff, and adjustable rear link which i have tightened all the way to the correct torque any insights?

07-05-2015, 06:34 PM	#2
cotbu Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SWFL Age: 49 Posts: 3,318 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	*NSFW* normal clunk clique for a welded,or post video or audio. __________________ LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

07-05-2015, 11:18 PM	#5
G-E@Z31P Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Toronto Posts: 126 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Is it possible something is bent and the distance is shorter causing the axle to bottom out the CV in the cup under certain conditions? __________________

07-06-2015, 06:14 PM	#6
kruked Nissanaholic! Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: someone's sisters' pants Posts: 2,288 Trader Rating: (37) Feedback Score: 37 reviews	Could be that they're not broken in yet. Your drive shaft could be out of ballance if you took it off for whatever reason to change the axles __________________ I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked! 2014 Triumph Street Triple

07-06-2015, 07:10 PM	#8
Bushido Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: SFL Posts: 3,563 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Ive been getting a ticking sound when i do low speed maneuvers like pull into s parking space. __________________

07-05-2015, 07:31 PM	#3
dbeiler Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Lancaster county, PA Age: 33 Posts: 465 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	What caused you to replace the original axles? A clicking or clunking noise is a sign of worn CV joints in the axle. Located inside the rubber boot, the rotating balls on the spider assy will get flat spots. As you're turning, the flat spot ball smacks into the side joint housing. Leave the car in neutral. Turn the steering wheel hard right or left. Push the car forward very slowly while closely watching the axle shafts. Is the noise heard only once during each axle revolution and always at the same spot? Have you inspected the welded diff lately? The welds may have cracked, allowing the axles to spin slightly independent of each other.

07-05-2015, 08:18 PM	#4
S-Nation S13 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: LAND of the LOST Posts: 4,083 Trader Rating: (92) Feedback Score: 92 reviews	Long story short I changed them because my PBM toe rod snapped causing my axle to rub on my coilover (DR) side damaging it, so since I changed one side I decided to change both. Failed and picked up an O'Reilly set of axle as I needed to change them asap (work/transportation) reasons My diff is welded with a quarter in plate so it's safe to say what if the welds fail my diff will blow up like a grenade.

07-06-2015, 07:42 PM	#9
KiLLeR2001 Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: オーランドフロリダ Posts: 7,955 Trader Rating: (46) Feedback Score: 46 reviews	Yeah I've heard plenty of bad stories about remanned axles. If you are looking to push over 500hp it is best to step up to the 6x1 Z32TT / G50 Q45 axles. __________________

07-07-2015, 01:39 AM	#11
S-Nation S13 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: LAND of the LOST Posts: 4,083 Trader Rating: (92) Feedback Score: 92 reviews	So I was able to track down some OE AXLES I'll slap them on this weekend if it checks out then I can say it was the reman axles at fault But now I have another problem !!! Ugh fuck this car lol Drove to work like I normally do, parked, turned off the car pulled my key out (5 seconds later everything turns on as if I had my keys in the acc position just before the start position I was able to get everything to shut off went to work, long behold battery drained while I was a work (12 hr. shift) Got a jump from triple a everything worked drove home and the shit got worse Car on everything fine Turn car off key out car on Disconnected the ign switch car on Disconnected the ground with positive cable still on .. Car still on Disconnected the positive cable and ground cable .. Car still on Disconnected the alt fuse car still on Disconnected the fuel pump fuse car finally died WTF if it's not one thing it's the other damn this car !!!